Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'd-series'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Wheel Horse
    • Wheel Horse Tractors
    • Wheel Horse Electric / Battery Powered Tractors
    • Engines
    • Transmissions and transaxles
    • Wheel Horse Electrical
    • Implements and Attachments
    • Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
    • Pullers
    • WIKI Discussion
  • Wheel Horse Reference
    • Wheel Horse Manuals
    • RedSquare Links
    • Instructional threads and video's
    • Tools and Equipment
  • Europe
    • Euro Introductions
    • Show Pictures
    • Euro Classifieds
  • Picture Gallery
    • Wheel Horse Picture Gallery
    • Implements Picture Gallery
    • Show Pictures
    • LIVE Broadcasts
  • Classifieds
    • Classifieds
    • Haulin Help
    • Vendors
  • General Talk
    • Corona Assistance
    • non tractor related discussion
    • Introductions
    • Bumps and Bruises
    • site suggestions, updates, issues
    • Just for Fun
    • other brands
    • Gardening
  • Shows and Events
    • Wheel Horse Collectors Club Show
    • 2021 WHCC Show Pictures
    • RedSquare Herd
    • General Shows and events
  • 520 Club's 520 Specific

Categories

  • Wheel Horse Manuals
    • 1955-1964
    • 1965-1972
    • 1973-1977
    • 1978-1984
    • 1985-1990
    • 1991-1997
    • 1998-2012
    • All years
    • Service Bulletins
  • Implement Manuals
    • Mower decks & reel
    • Blades Dozer Grader Snow
    • Snow Blowers
    • Ground engaging
    • Other
  • Engine Manuals
    • Kohler
    • Onan Service Manuals
    • Other
  • Transmission
    • Manual
    • Automatic / Hydro
  • Electrical
  • Brochures
  • RedSquare Calendars
  • Misc. Items

Blogs

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.

Categories

  • Wheel Horse for Sale
  • Euro Wheel Horse For Sale
  • Wanted
  • Euro Wanted
  • Trade
  • Euro Trade
  • Non-Wheel Horse
  • Euro non-Wheel Horse
  • Wheel Horse Sold Archive

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Found 166 results

  1. Wendell Watson

    105060 - DIFFERENTIAL END CAP

    I am looking for a Differential end cap for my D200, Please let me know if anyone has one!!
  2. 417 downloads

    Operator manual #A-5326 Wiring 6 pages 2.01MB Dated 7/72 Wiring Color pdf from operator manual 1 page 315KB Terminals on 101917 ignition switch may not be identified. This switch has been replaced by 92-6785. 3 pages 269KB Lube chart SS 1973 18hp Automatic model 1-0600 1973 18hp Automatic model 1-0601 1973 18hp Automatic model 1-0610 1973 18hp Automatic model 1-0620

    Free

  3. tommyg

    Removing a D hub

    Is it seriously that hard to remove the hub on a D? I figured while I was doing some other work that put the tractor out of commission, I would pull the hub on the one side and replace a leaking seal. Put on a puller, loosened the square headed locking bolts and started cranking away. It moved fairly easily for about an inch and a half then got so tight I was afraid I'd bust it! Decided to put it back on and it took a monumental effort to get it back to the starting point. Ended up damaging the lip of the hub. Had to use a sledge hammer. Someone please tell me that it's really hard to do any damage to the tranny by wacking that hub back on! Still don't have the seal off and now I have to replace the hub once I finally get it off.
  4. I was looking for Ross steering parts and "found" the gardentractorpullingtips.com/steering.htm website. I have not ordered anything, only sent an email with questions. Today I noticed the post in the Red Square Links for "not recommended suppliers". I am glad I did not send any money. I am rebuilding a Ross Steering box on a Wheel Horse D180. The Ross Steering box has the code below stamped on the column. SCA 10200 Where can I get these items? - Complete Lower Steering Box Bearing and Cup/Race Kit - Full Set. Includes two plastic bearing cages/ball spacers. - 9/16" Diameter Cam Follower (Steering Pin). - Flanged Sealed Ball Bearing to replace the insert at the top of the column. Looks like it's a little bigger than 1 3/8" OD with a 3/4" ID - “Easy Steer" Upgrade Kit. For models with 3/4" diameter pitman arm stud. I have seen some of these parts on the auction site but was hoping for someplace I could order everything from. Thank You.
  5. tommyg

    Fuel pump d180

    I'm having some trouble getting my D180 to keep running when the gas tank gets below a certain point. I'm thinking it's the fuel pump. Am I correct in thinking there is a vacuum pump on those things? The connection seems to be a bit loose and my hunch is that it's not sucking the fuel like it should. I know a couple people have had success with electric fuel pumps. Any thoughts out there?
  6. BMW1

    D series Steering

    On my D200, when I turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, it has a tight turn radius, but when I turn it all the way to the right, the turn radius is significantly wider. The tie rods appear to be adjusted evenly. Anyone have a similar problem and what was done to fix it? The steering does have quite a bit of play, at least 1/4 to 1/2 turn of the wheel.
  7. Colorad

    Looking for advice

    Hi all, I am new here and am new to the wheel horse tractors. I bought a property and a D-240 came with it. Can anyone give me an idea of the year range it could be ? It does have a Koehler motor. It runs really good, I was doing a little plowing with it and it blew a shaft seal off the hydro transmission pump ? Any links to literature for removing the pump or suggestions from anyone here that knows more about these, who can point me in the right direction? much appreciated thanks I have taken it partially apart
  8. What brand of gauge and/or setup are people using to test the pressure in their hydrostatic transmissions? The wheel horse hydrostatic manual says to use a 0-1000 psi gauge. The gauge in the picture in the manual(page 25 in Sunstrand Hydro (part 1).pdf) only goes to 600psi - which is probably fine as long as it's not used to test the cylinders. I found several test gauges, but most are 0-3000 or more. I found a couple that were 0-1000 but the increment lines on the gauge are around 50-60, which means the gauge would move only a small amount. The manual says the pressure should be between 75 and 150 psi. Most of the reasonably priced digital gauges I saw had bad reviews.
  9. Well a little late to post this (actually months late but hey life happens) but I purchased this D250 which runs rough and is stuck in low range but still moves. Over the next few months myself along with my father are going to tear this beast down and completely rebuild this back to its former glory. I also have the original mower deck to go along with it. If anyone has any incite on these tractors feel free to comment. I will post pictures along the way.
  10. Is there a procedure for adjusting the motion control linkage on a 1974 D-180 - model# 1-0611 9 ? The tractor barely moves in reverse and the motion control arm is not traveling the full length of the slot for reverse. The picture below shows how far back it goes. The motion control arm travels all the way forward to the end of the slot when going forward. I never drove this tractor before I bought so I have no idea what it did before. The only thing I have done to it is replace a couple of bearings in the differential and replace the axles, splines were bad on one and other axle was bent. Thanks.
  11. I have not had to do this before and want to make sure I'm doing it correctly. Picture of bearing and seal is attached. Is the bearing supposed to fit in the groove of the oil seal or is the seal supposed to flush against the bearing? I think the latter is correct? Thanks
  12. Rollerman

    D250 questions

    Have some questions or like some feedback from those of you on RedSquare who have or still use one. One of the higher ups at my work picked one up 4 or 5 years ago at an estate sell somewhere out east on the Chesapeak Bay....thats what he told me? He knew I was a WheelHorse fan & teased me with it at first & also asked me questions about it. I was always under the impression the 250's were the step child of WheelHorse & to stay away. Recently I brought it home to fix a few minor things for the owner & even took it to Scott's M&G. So...the owner has offered it to me & after playing around with it for a few weeks now & it's growing on me. Just over 400Hrs, very quiet, steering is tight, trans works perfect, comes with a 50+" hyd angle snow blade, 60" deck, tiller, & has a 3PH. From what I understand about the D250's it was the earlier mordels that had transmission issues. This is a later model & has the dual hyd outputs on the front. Other than a few minor things...hood straps are broke, fender has one crack in it, paint is faded (my coworker stored it in an outside lean to). How well do these things work...you know mow, push snow, etc, etc? I have around 5 acres to mow now & really appreciate the larger tires on this import Horse. Are there any things to look out for? The local auto parts place seems to have it pretty well covered on most maintanance parts as well as some stuff for bigger fixes. Will the trans hold up, can parts be found for them if something does break. Just looking for some input from any D250 users here.
  13. tommyg

    Clutch Brake repair

    I've got the rivets showing through on the clutch brake for my d-180. Toro says the part is NLA. I'm sure this has been discussed before, but how can I replace the friction material so I don't damage anything since I now have metal touching metal? Doesn't seem like rocket science, but I'm not sure where to start.
  14. Going to pick up a load of horses Thursday evening. D160, rj, suburban and c141. Will post pictures when I get them. I’m gonna try an get them all in one load so I am gonna have to use some of @pullstart loading skills. I think I can fit three in the truck and put the d160 on the trailer. Here is a little preview, that’s all you guys get for now unless you just happen to find ad for them
  15. I'm needing the o-ring sizes for my control valve assembly to my D-180. Does anyone have a list of these or the McMaster Carr part numbers? Thanks, Jonathan
  16. Been wanting to figure out a better way to move dead tractors around - some, just isn't cooperative at being towed - the AC 916H is a great example around here. Since the rear axle is a hydro, it does not disengage fully for some reason and the tires are really shot badly. The 16Auto dug some big holes the last time I tried to move it around, so the idea here is to use the D's 3pt lift and it's size/weight advantage to move other dead tractors. I also wanted a toolbar that could have adapters added for various tasks - such as cultivators, tines, rear blade, ect. I've wanted to build a wrecker for years, just never had the time to do it - this year, I decided I've had enough of my aching back and legs - this needs to get done before I end up in the hospital. Always seems there is no help available when I need it, so now is the time - here is where I'm at as of now... All built from 1/4" thick iron, except the hub mounting plate which 1/2" thick A50 steel. Trailer hub/stub shaft is a 1750lb rated unit. In hindsight, if I ever did it again I'd use a heavier DOM tubing and just turn it to accept bearing races, make the shaft on the lathe and be done with it. Not to mention, I could control the thickness of the assembly a lot better. There are "rear tire carrier builder" parts available out there to do just that with pre-built tubing, the correct bearings and shaft - you just weld it into the square tubing of choice. Still a lot to do - need to make a set of centering springs, locking pins (for toolbar use), tire carrier arms w/tie-down rings, rear blade adapters, ect.... Just thought I'd share a bit - need to some lift testing today, hopefully. Sarge
  17. What brand of gauges are D series owners using for replacements? I would like a matched set for a D200(oil pressure, transmission temp, volts or amps) with lights. The ones on mine are in bad shape and don't work, except amps. I think the sending units may be bad or maybe the inside of the gauges are bad from sitting outside for so long. Thanks.
  18. I’m not sure I’m in the right place for this post, but I’ve got a leaky hydro cylinder on my D180. It’s the primary one that lifts the deck, snowblower, etc. I could take a chance on finding one on ebay, but I was wondering if there’s an alternative besides used.
  19. Fast question ... Per the IPL for the 6-1141 and 6-1131 54" & 56" blades - how is everyone pinning the rear blade lock arms so they can't unlock the blade ? I've ran into problems with this thing before wanting to unlock itself and drop the blade half off the tractor. It seems when back dragging rough pavement, especially if I back into a snow bank the thing is moving those locks out of position and allowing the frame to drop off. The only reason it stays at least somewhat under the D is the lift arm , but getting it back into position is no fun due to the weight of this thing and especially out in the snow/cold weather. Last time I had to drag the thing back to a clear area so I could wrestle it back into position, lift the frame and lock it again. I did wire them shut for now, but don't trust it and I use it to back drag quite a bit on rough areas I don't want to ram the cutting edge against and risk damaging the rear axle differential or anything else. Mine has been rebuilt with a new cutting edge of 1055HC and the frame is highly beefed up - most of it is now boxed in and the thing has gained nearly 50lbs of steel. It cuts great, almost too good but that random dropping it off is starting to irritate me - need some ideas here... The smaller 42" and other frames lock from the other direction - so to speak. The brackets are also drilled to accept large hair pin cotters to keep those locks in place - I see no way the bigger blade frame is designed for that, unless I'm missing something ? Sarge
  20. Seacrestbf

    D 200 Engine

    Hello I have a D 200 and my sons have been cutting the lawn this summer and nerver check th oil and the seized the motor. I freed the motor up and it runs fine until there is a load. I checked the Compression and I have one dead hole. ;-( it broke my heart. I have a Mower, tiller, and snow thrower. Any Advise? Should I buy a motor? Or rebuild or scrap?? I liked the machine. But I dont want to dump a ton of money into it if it is questionable. I am not sure if it is a Kohler or Onan?? Any thoughts Thank you Brian Foley
  21. What started out as a simple task of moving my 6-1/2' x 12' utility trailer to unload it's contents back into the Shed Repair Project after building a new floor turned out to be a really bad day . I figured the weight of the trailer and it's load was probably around 2,500lbs or more and the big D-180 should be able to handle it . Used the 3pt hitch and an adapter to lift the trailer tongue and off I went...until I got to the end of the north drive and the pump coupling on the hydro failed - badly . In hindsight - the trailer probably weighed closer to 4,000lbs the way it felt behind the truck ... Now , the trailer had to be taken off the tractor and put on it's jack ....which didn't work out too well loaded that heavily . Since the trailer was built with 2x3 angle iron on the tongue it decided to fold itself into a pretzel - despite the wheels being blocked tight so it couldn't move . It fell over and I had to use the HI-Lift to get it off the ground . The sight of the trailer falling over in the rear view camera on the Dodge is still well embedded in my memory - I knew that was going to be another large project . The coupling had an earlier repair from last winter's failure - so a pto pin was driven through the hole to get it out back to my work area to be fixed later . It made the short trip , but just barely and the tow valve was frozen tightly . As it turned out , the damage to the D was a much bigger issue..and cost 3 times as much in total . The pic doesn't do the damage any justice - that entire tongue was bent badly - Sand blasted , new tongue built and waiting for paint - Painted , as it sits now awaiting the lights , wiring and re-install the floor decking . All the while - got more work done on the D's pump problem . Found a great used pump , as well as a spare coupling in good shape . After a lot of machine work ($$$) we came up with a solution and everything was back together... After all this I found that both the original mufflers were completely shot and falling apart - so another project ... Bought a pair of 180* mandrel bends , two cone transitions and a pair of @jimkemp 8" mufflers (very nice, btw) . Fabricated the flanges for the engine's exhaust ports , as well as the pipes for the stacks - Spent a lot of time rolling the engine over on the starter to slowly prime the pump back up and finally , after several months - fired Big Ugly to test the exhaust before painting the stacks . No leaks from the hydro thanks to some new o-rings and backer rings from @pfrederi on the hydro manifold , that was a big relief . A bit shocked at the sound of the big opposed twin - somewhat like a Harley running on the choke or something - but overall not obnoxious or too loud .... D180 startup.mp4 If you don't want to wait for the MP4 to load - here's the YouTube link - I don't think the camera's microphone will show the sound too well , but so far I like it . Took a ride around the block , nice having this beast back up and running , finally . Now to finish that dumb trailer....pretty much wasted nearly the whole summer getting all of this done plus the hours at work . I'm about ready for a break but need to get ready for winter . Sarge
  22. JamesBe1

    D-180 Engine Swap

    Wasn't sure where to put this update, so I figured that I would start a new thread. I got the engine from the rescue horse all cleaned up and installed, and am now just stripping and repainting all the parts that I took off along the way. I am getting down to almost the last of them. I think I have the hood and the headlight assy left and I should be done with the tractor proper. In parallel, I am cleaning up the FEL (strip and repaint to varying degrees). Pretty much the whole front end of the tractor was cleaned and repainted. Not the most professional job, but this is going to be a worker, so I am more interested in performance than appearance. I got the grille stripped and repainted. Here are some before and after shots. Note that it was painted black when I got it, and didn't appear to have any red paint on it whatsoever. I thought that they came from the factory painted red, but I guess not. At least in this case. After I got it out of my electrolytic derusting tank where it had sat for over a week, the paint pretty much just fell off: I took it apart and spent a couple of hours cleaning them up the rest of the way with the wire wheel on my bench grinder: After a couple of coats of rust reformer, I put it back together and hit it with a couple of coats of glossy black. Here are the final results with it mounted on the tractor:
  23. DarrellF

    My D 200

    From the album: Darrell

  24. Hello again... So I just posted recently concerning a stuck clutch on my D-250. I pulled the deck, inspected everything, got frustrated, posted on Red Square and got some pretty solid advice. So under the guidance of Garry and Squonk, I was able to "unstick" the clutch by jolting the thing loose in top gear. It worked perfectly... Except... Now the thing is physically stuck in high range and the lever won't budge. It definitely worked just fine only moments before the clutch trick. Did I break something in the gear box? I did remove and reinstall the deck which I initially thought may have been installed wrong and could have been making physical contact with the linkage, but upon further inspection, doesn't appear to be although I admit I can't see it all. I was SO happy... Lol... It was working again and now this... Seems to be my kind of luck. Any tips or tricks for this issue? Thanks so much for your replies ahead of time. I have also apparently developed a completely unrelated fuel issue which I'll post separately on the engine forum. Thanks y'all... I really appreciate it. I DID manage to get the grass cut... I don't really like mowing in high range 1st gear but it was the only option... I guess some good came out of the situation. Jacob
  25. ,Hi all... I bought a D-250 a while back and I really like it but she's got a couple ghost problems that I can't seem to wrap my head around. I believe that it's a '76. It has the Renault engine in it. So three different times now... I've hit a small stump, stopping the mower dead in it's tracks. All three episodes were moderately violent. In two of the occasions, it stalled the mower after I disengaged the deck and backed off of the stump. So here's where it gets weird. After each incident, the mower would no longer start. If I pulled the choke all the way on, it'd fire up and rev to the sky... Like sketchy high rpms which all three times was the only way I could limp it back to the barn. After completing cooling down and tweaking the fuel mixture screw back and forth, I've been able to get it to run well again... Sometimes I can ease the choke off and the governor goes crazy surging off and on... But in most cases, it simply won't run with the choke off. So what in the heck does this have to do with the impacts? The only theory I currently have is that it jolts the fuel tank and fuel filter badly enough to shake up some contamination... But that's just a wild guess. It's also definitely temperature related, because I can mess with carb settings enough to fix it so long as it isn't up to temperature yet. So there it is... Any of you guys ever heard of a crash related fuel issue? I feel like I'm going crazy. I know I'm missing something here in the troubleshooting. Thanks a bunch! Jacob
×
×
  • Create New...