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Found 171 results

  1. I'm needing the o-ring sizes for my control valve assembly to my D-180. Does anyone have a list of these or the McMaster Carr part numbers? Thanks, Jonathan
  2. Been wanting to figure out a better way to move dead tractors around - some, just isn't cooperative at being towed - the AC 916H is a great example around here. Since the rear axle is a hydro, it does not disengage fully for some reason and the tires are really shot badly. The 16Auto dug some big holes the last time I tried to move it around, so the idea here is to use the D's 3pt lift and it's size/weight advantage to move other dead tractors. I also wanted a toolbar that could have adapters added for various tasks - such as cultivators, tines, rear blade, ect. I've wanted to build a wrecker for years, just never had the time to do it - this year, I decided I've had enough of my aching back and legs - this needs to get done before I end up in the hospital. Always seems there is no help available when I need it, so now is the time - here is where I'm at as of now... All built from 1/4" thick iron, except the hub mounting plate which 1/2" thick A50 steel. Trailer hub/stub shaft is a 1750lb rated unit. In hindsight, if I ever did it again I'd use a heavier DOM tubing and just turn it to accept bearing races, make the shaft on the lathe and be done with it. Not to mention, I could control the thickness of the assembly a lot better. There are "rear tire carrier builder" parts available out there to do just that with pre-built tubing, the correct bearings and shaft - you just weld it into the square tubing of choice. Still a lot to do - need to make a set of centering springs, locking pins (for toolbar use), tire carrier arms w/tie-down rings, rear blade adapters, ect.... Just thought I'd share a bit - need to some lift testing today, hopefully. Sarge
  3. What brand of gauges are D series owners using for replacements? I would like a matched set for a D200(oil pressure, transmission temp, volts or amps) with lights. The ones on mine are in bad shape and don't work, except amps. I think the sending units may be bad or maybe the inside of the gauges are bad from sitting outside for so long. Thanks.
  4. Looking to get out of the WH business so looking to unload everything as one lot. Have D160 w/ Onan 16 twin original. Use it to mow last year so it will run, have not started it this year. Burns oil but good machine otherwise. Has 48 inch belly mower and snow blower. Other machine is 18 Auto with bar tires, 3 pt hitch and rear PTO, 48 inch Rear finish mower and snow blower. Current state is that it has motor and hydro pump out because the O rings for hydro pump were leaking so while making that repair I planned to change the Pump shaft out. Motor and drive are good and I have mowed with this in the past. Spare parts I have include Most of another Machine that was stripped down so there are spare tires rims, rear end, steering components, I also have 2 o 3 spare hydro pumps, extra hydro line sets (hoses and hard lines), Another 16 horse ONAN that blew a rod currently torn down (may be salvageable, never followed up with it). I am getting several Allis Chalmers garden tractors passed down to me and since I barely have time for my WH I figure its best to pass these on to another collector and make room for the new fleet coming. Please reach out to me Via Email and we can exchange contact information and I could send pictures when I make time to take some this week. Thank you.
  5. I’m not sure I’m in the right place for this post, but I’ve got a leaky hydro cylinder on my D180. It’s the primary one that lifts the deck, snowblower, etc. I could take a chance on finding one on ebay, but I was wondering if there’s an alternative besides used.
  6. Fast question ... Per the IPL for the 6-1141 and 6-1131 54" & 56" blades - how is everyone pinning the rear blade lock arms so they can't unlock the blade ? I've ran into problems with this thing before wanting to unlock itself and drop the blade half off the tractor. It seems when back dragging rough pavement, especially if I back into a snow bank the thing is moving those locks out of position and allowing the frame to drop off. The only reason it stays at least somewhat under the D is the lift arm , but getting it back into position is no fun due to the weight of this thing and especially out in the snow/cold weather. Last time I had to drag the thing back to a clear area so I could wrestle it back into position, lift the frame and lock it again. I did wire them shut for now, but don't trust it and I use it to back drag quite a bit on rough areas I don't want to ram the cutting edge against and risk damaging the rear axle differential or anything else. Mine has been rebuilt with a new cutting edge of 1055HC and the frame is highly beefed up - most of it is now boxed in and the thing has gained nearly 50lbs of steel. It cuts great, almost too good but that random dropping it off is starting to irritate me - need some ideas here... The smaller 42" and other frames lock from the other direction - so to speak. The brackets are also drilled to accept large hair pin cotters to keep those locks in place - I see no way the bigger blade frame is designed for that, unless I'm missing something ? Sarge
  7. Seacrestbf

    D 200 Engine

    Hello I have a D 200 and my sons have been cutting the lawn this summer and nerver check th oil and the seized the motor. I freed the motor up and it runs fine until there is a load. I checked the Compression and I have one dead hole. ;-( it broke my heart. I have a Mower, tiller, and snow thrower. Any Advise? Should I buy a motor? Or rebuild or scrap?? I liked the machine. But I dont want to dump a ton of money into it if it is questionable. I am not sure if it is a Kohler or Onan?? Any thoughts Thank you Brian Foley
  8. What started out as a simple task of moving my 6-1/2' x 12' utility trailer to unload it's contents back into the Shed Repair Project after building a new floor turned out to be a really bad day . I figured the weight of the trailer and it's load was probably around 2,500lbs or more and the big D-180 should be able to handle it . Used the 3pt hitch and an adapter to lift the trailer tongue and off I went...until I got to the end of the north drive and the pump coupling on the hydro failed - badly . In hindsight - the trailer probably weighed closer to 4,000lbs the way it felt behind the truck ... Now , the trailer had to be taken off the tractor and put on it's jack ....which didn't work out too well loaded that heavily . Since the trailer was built with 2x3 angle iron on the tongue it decided to fold itself into a pretzel - despite the wheels being blocked tight so it couldn't move . It fell over and I had to use the HI-Lift to get it off the ground . The sight of the trailer falling over in the rear view camera on the Dodge is still well embedded in my memory - I knew that was going to be another large project . The coupling had an earlier repair from last winter's failure - so a pto pin was driven through the hole to get it out back to my work area to be fixed later . It made the short trip , but just barely and the tow valve was frozen tightly . As it turned out , the damage to the D was a much bigger issue..and cost 3 times as much in total . The pic doesn't do the damage any justice - that entire tongue was bent badly - Sand blasted , new tongue built and waiting for paint - Painted , as it sits now awaiting the lights , wiring and re-install the floor decking . All the while - got more work done on the D's pump problem . Found a great used pump , as well as a spare coupling in good shape . After a lot of machine work ($$$) we came up with a solution and everything was back together... After all this I found that both the original mufflers were completely shot and falling apart - so another project ... Bought a pair of 180* mandrel bends , two cone transitions and a pair of @jimkemp 8" mufflers (very nice, btw) . Fabricated the flanges for the engine's exhaust ports , as well as the pipes for the stacks - Spent a lot of time rolling the engine over on the starter to slowly prime the pump back up and finally , after several months - fired Big Ugly to test the exhaust before painting the stacks . No leaks from the hydro thanks to some new o-rings and backer rings from @pfrederi on the hydro manifold , that was a big relief . A bit shocked at the sound of the big opposed twin - somewhat like a Harley running on the choke or something - but overall not obnoxious or too loud .... D180 startup.mp4 If you don't want to wait for the MP4 to load - here's the YouTube link - I don't think the camera's microphone will show the sound too well , but so far I like it . Took a ride around the block , nice having this beast back up and running , finally . Now to finish that dumb trailer....pretty much wasted nearly the whole summer getting all of this done plus the hours at work . I'm about ready for a break but need to get ready for winter . Sarge
  9. HUDSON89

    3 D250 and 2 D200 and parts

    I have 3 D250 one is either 78 or 79 ( needs a fuel pump and has a 3 point hitch ) and the other 2 are 76 or 77 ( one run needs some TLC the other is parts ) the 2 D200 I don't know much about 2000 for all obo
  10. JamesBe1

    D-180 Engine Swap

    Wasn't sure where to put this update, so I figured that I would start a new thread. I got the engine from the rescue horse all cleaned up and installed, and am now just stripping and repainting all the parts that I took off along the way. I am getting down to almost the last of them. I think I have the hood and the headlight assy left and I should be done with the tractor proper. In parallel, I am cleaning up the FEL (strip and repaint to varying degrees). Pretty much the whole front end of the tractor was cleaned and repainted. Not the most professional job, but this is going to be a worker, so I am more interested in performance than appearance. I got the grille stripped and repainted. Here are some before and after shots. Note that it was painted black when I got it, and didn't appear to have any red paint on it whatsoever. I thought that they came from the factory painted red, but I guess not. At least in this case. After I got it out of my electrolytic derusting tank where it had sat for over a week, the paint pretty much just fell off: I took it apart and spent a couple of hours cleaning them up the rest of the way with the wire wheel on my bench grinder: After a couple of coats of rust reformer, I put it back together and hit it with a couple of coats of glossy black. Here are the final results with it mounted on the tractor:
  11. DarrellF

    My D 200

    From the album: Darrell

  12. Hello again... So I just posted recently concerning a stuck clutch on my D-250. I pulled the deck, inspected everything, got frustrated, posted on Red Square and got some pretty solid advice. So under the guidance of Garry and Squonk, I was able to "unstick" the clutch by jolting the thing loose in top gear. It worked perfectly... Except... Now the thing is physically stuck in high range and the lever won't budge. It definitely worked just fine only moments before the clutch trick. Did I break something in the gear box? I did remove and reinstall the deck which I initially thought may have been installed wrong and could have been making physical contact with the linkage, but upon further inspection, doesn't appear to be although I admit I can't see it all. I was SO happy... Lol... It was working again and now this... Seems to be my kind of luck. Any tips or tricks for this issue? Thanks so much for your replies ahead of time. I have also apparently developed a completely unrelated fuel issue which I'll post separately on the engine forum. Thanks y'all... I really appreciate it. I DID manage to get the grass cut... I don't really like mowing in high range 1st gear but it was the only option... I guess some good came out of the situation. Jacob
  13. ,Hi all... I bought a D-250 a while back and I really like it but she's got a couple ghost problems that I can't seem to wrap my head around. I believe that it's a '76. It has the Renault engine in it. So three different times now... I've hit a small stump, stopping the mower dead in it's tracks. All three episodes were moderately violent. In two of the occasions, it stalled the mower after I disengaged the deck and backed off of the stump. So here's where it gets weird. After each incident, the mower would no longer start. If I pulled the choke all the way on, it'd fire up and rev to the sky... Like sketchy high rpms which all three times was the only way I could limp it back to the barn. After completing cooling down and tweaking the fuel mixture screw back and forth, I've been able to get it to run well again... Sometimes I can ease the choke off and the governor goes crazy surging off and on... But in most cases, it simply won't run with the choke off. So what in the heck does this have to do with the impacts? The only theory I currently have is that it jolts the fuel tank and fuel filter badly enough to shake up some contamination... But that's just a wild guess. It's also definitely temperature related, because I can mess with carb settings enough to fix it so long as it isn't up to temperature yet. So there it is... Any of you guys ever heard of a crash related fuel issue? I feel like I'm going crazy. I know I'm missing something here in the troubleshooting. Thanks a bunch! Jacob
  14. Hey guys and gals... Had something super weird happen. I went to start my D-250 (Renault Engine) and the clutch won't work. So, instead of mowing for my 4th of July cookout, I pulled the 60" deck out and climbed underneath. The clutch linkages are intact and the throw out lever was a little bit loose on the adjustment rod. I adjusted the slack out of the throw out lever and prayed... No change. I fear something is internally wrong with the clutch. The weird thing is that it worked fine when I last used it. How could something break sitting still? I'm frustrated and confused. I have a parts breakdown for the clutch assembly and I am dreading having to pull the whole motor to work on it. Any advice? Am I missing something? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Happy 4th everyone!
  15. Pat_In_Denver

    NOS 56" D-Series Blade

    This blade is complete and never used. $400 was dealer cost ages ago, and that's all it will take to pick up this huge blade. I will be traveling to Denver from WNY starting Sunday and would be willing to meet somewhere along the I-70 corridor (see my other post in the hauling area) to deliver for an extra $75.
  16. DanKepple

    D160 single cylinder

    Candidate for restoration. Runs and drives needs a battery, oil change, cleaning and brake adjusted. The brake is very lose and dosent work that great. The tractor has a new head gasket and deck belt. Starter and coil replaced by original owner. I have the original coil. I also have the grill to the tractor. No 3pt hitch or rear pto, tire chains included. Want it gone asap. If you email me a number i can send you a video of it driving and midlift and pto working.
  17. blu_stang

    Brantly Backhoe for Sale

    Hi everyone, I have a 600 series Brantly Backhoe for sale. It's currently mounted to a D250 and in good working condition. I'm not sure what the original kit model number was, because I believe it was originally intended for a Bolens or Simplicity tractor, but has since been repainted and touched up to be red and fit for the Wheel Horse. Most hoses and many fittings and hardware pieces are less than 2 years old. Some weak points have been repaired with fabrication work done by a professional structural fab company (PWF Enterprises in Phoenix, NY). I just replaced one of the cylinders with a brand new Prince cylinder (still have the original). I'm not in a rush to sell, but I would like to entertain any reasonable offers. I am asking $3,500. The backhoe comes with a subframe. It does not have a pump, as this model shares the PTO pump with the loader. I can address questions about how to move forward with getting a pump connected if you don't have one on your machine, already. I completely replaced the pump, couplers and fittings, hoses and bracket currently being used for the loader. Thanks for looking! PM me or send an e-mail with any questions or interest.
  18. tommyg

    deck height

    A couple years ago, I did a couple modifications to put the 60" WH deck under my D-180 to replace the flimsy 48" deck it came with. The conversion went perfectly, but there's one thing I can't figure out, and that is why I can't get the deck to cut any higher than about 2 3/4". Anyone else do this same conversion who can chime in on whether or not that's to be expected with this deck?
  19. Big Bear

    Wheel Horse D180

    Wheel Horse D180 automatic Starts and runs greats. This tractor has been barn kept it's entire life and used very lightly. The rear tires are brand new (worth $200 each) with rubber injection marks still on them Paint job is all original and in excellent shape. This tractor can be driven around but needs linkage to be perfect. If you would like to take a look at it or have any questions give me a call. Make offer. wheel horse, farmall, allis chalmers, lawn tractor,
  20. DanKepple

    Wheel horse D160

    I NEED IT GONE! D160 runs and drives. Good restoration project or clean up and go to work. Comes with deck. No 3pt hitch ot rear pto. I have the grill for it. Will also take B80 attachments for partial trade. Email me for pics. I JUST REALIZED THAT THE EMAIL WAS WRONG UPDATED CONTACT INFO
  21. Version


    Operator manual #A-5326 Wiring 6 pages 2.01MB Dated 7/72 Terminals on 101917 ignition switch may not be identified. This switch has been replaced by 92-6785. 3 pages 269KB Lube chart SS 1973 18hp Automatic model 1-0600 1973 18hp Automatic model 1-0601 1973 18hp Automatic model 1-0610 1973 18hp Automatic model 1-0620


  22. DanKepple


    D160 runs and drives comes with mower deck and i have the grill for it. No 3pt hitch or rear pto. Will need a battery and a clean up. Good restoration project. Pm for pics. I can do a pick up in maine or i can bring it to my work in Massachusetts and can do pick up there.
  23. DanKepple

    D series tiller shaft.

    looking for a shaft to a d series tiller. the u joints on mine are shot and frozen.
  24. DanKepple


    D160. Needs work, runs and drives could be in better shape. Has deck. I also have the grill its just not in it. No rear pto or 3pt hitch. Bought it with a stuck motor had a blown head gasket. I put a new head gasket into it and recently the automatic compression release has been acting up i think i fixed it but not 100% sure.
  25. DanKepple

    Cab For D-Series

    Looking for a cab that will fit a D200 i am located in Massachusetts and i travel to Maine on the weekends anything close or in between the two would be nice.