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Found 27 results

  1. the jeep driver

    417A Clutch Seized When Mowing, How Do I Fix?

    My daughter was using the Wheel Horse rider to mow, I was push mowing. She drives over to me and says, "Dad, the blades aren't turning." I look at the mower, she's got the blades engaged (lever forward) but nothing is moving. I disengage the blades, and re-engage... nothing. No movement from the belt nor clutch. Then I notice the smell, and look closer, the belt is so hot is melting on the clutch. Or rather, the clutch is so hot it's melting the belt. Melting occurred. While the clutch is disengaged, I can spin the clutch freely; and whilst it's engaged, it won't move. So, what did I do now? Peter told me to lube that needle bearing, but I couldn't find a write up/how to anywhere, so I was putting it off until after the leaves were done falling in the Fall. I haven't taken anything off yet, other than the pins that hold the pinion and such, and the little brake pad. I see there are two snap rings, assume they come off, and then the assembly slides out as a whole? Some pictures of the clutch, can anyone tell if it's usable from them?
  2. Portuguese Farmer

    C-120 PTO Clutch Re-line / Re-build

    Hi Everyone. I recently rebuilt the pto clutch on my 1976 C-120 and figured id post some pictures and part numbers to save other time who are doing the same. I have the 6.75" OD clutch plate and didn't want to spend the money to get a new one from Toro so i ended up doing some research and re-lined it myself. I wasn't sure on the material so i took some measurements it looks like the originals are .125" thick stock. Clutch Material: McMaster #60895K11 http://www.mcmaster.com/#60895k11/=11rane8 It comes in a 7.5 x 7.5" square so you also have enough to re-line your brake like i did. I found the easiest way to cut it was to trace the OD of the old clutch plate and for the id i found a 4" angle grinder blade was the right diameter. I used a set of snips to trim the OD and a jigsaw to do the ID and seamed to work well. Extra material: Thin jigsaw blade i used: Final product: Now i also increased the contact area versus the original. The old one only contacted about an inch in width this one i had full contact on the bell of the pulley. My pulley was scored so i face it clean on the lather removing only the minimum need to get a full clean. YOu can chuck the narrow end of the bell on the pulley, just make sure the face is true (axial run-out <.005") I now have 2" of width on contact, it should work much better now. I prepped my old clutch backing plate by removing the old work clutch and the worn out broken rivets. Using a die grinder with an abrasive wheel works good. I then used a rougher disk to make little rough grooves in the face to make sure the clutch adheres better with the epoxy. Note the old contact area. Once the backing plate is cleaned use air and carb cleaner to thoroughly clean the new clutch material and the backing plate. Now i used Loctite 380 Instant Adhesive. We use this at work for similar materials on clutches and brakes. its oil heat and impact resistant and is literally the strongest fastest drying adhesive i've ever used it really works wonders. It cleans up with carb cleaner (even on your hands) t available the cheapest from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-135423-Toughened-Instant-Adhesive/dp/B000132VEE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459388480&sr=8-1&keywords=loctite+380 A zigzag pattern gives the best coverage to ensure it contacts and sticks evenly. Now make sure you just stick the clutch onto the backing plate and not the pulley I used the pulley as a plate to clamp the new lining onto the plate with the help of 3 clamps and left it there overnight. Just make sure the pulley is up so any drips don't stick the pulley to the other half. Now you can use those leftover pieces to also re-line the brake: same idea and process here... Since i had the whole thing apart anyways i decided to replace the bearings, they are a fortune from Toro and some aftermarket ones just didn't seem to be of high enough quality. I ended up finding a package deal on the originals on ebay so i figure did post the OEM bearing specs so you can find them yourselves locally or online its easier knowing the bearing manufacturers number than a Toro number. Ball Bearing (on the end taking the PTO thrust): Fafnir P204RR6 Alternative: http://www.amazon.com/Fafnir-P204RR6-Single-Ball-Bearing/dp/B00FAY909S Needle Bearing (on the inside of pulley holding the radial load): Torrington J-2420 Alternative: http://www.amazon.com/Koyo-Bearingd-8600rpm-Maximum-Rotational/dp/B007EDPF4C Grease Seal: CR 14810 (Chicago Rawhide) Alternative: http://www.amazon.com/SKF-14810-Small-Style-Diameter/dp/B00CLIVXNM/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1459389503&sr=8-3&keywords=CR+14810 Locally here in RI/MA i always use Eastern Bearings in Prov, RI to get all my bearings and seals they have reat pricing and can get you anything you need but you can also find them online at many places. Just be careful the letters on the ends usually mean different seal types so make sure you look into the whole part number. Hope this helps! Good Luck! if you have any questions ill try to help.
  3. My 1999 270H with 48” deck is having an issue getting power to PTO. Checked PTO with jumper to battery and it worked fine and I’ve actually been cutting grass using the jumper for awhile. I checked power from PTO switch to PTO and there is none. I checked PTO switch and it appeared OK but I replaced it anyway and still no power to PTO. Then checked brown/tan wire leading to switch and there is none. Could the issue be the NMIR module and is there a good way to check it. If bad, where is the best place to get a replacement and do other brands/models have NMIR a modules I can use. Also, would suppling battery power directly to PTO switch and bypassing NMIR result in switch working.
  4. trident

    Electric PTO

    Need some help. My 800 Special has an electric PTO. It is not working. Checked Ohms - nothing. My questions are 1) how does the PTO come off and 2) can they be rebuilt? I took the bolt out that I thought holds it on but no luck. Must be something more?
  5. BMW1

    D180 Front PTO rotation

    What direction does the front PTO Pulley turn on a wheel horse D180 with a Kohler K482 as you face the front of the tractor? I want to get a hydraulic pump for a Johnson 10 loader I will be mounting to tractor and want to make sure I get a pump that rotates the correct direction.
  6. Hi All, My first post on here so apologies in advance for any rookie mistakes. First off, I am the proud owner of a "new to me" 312-8. I took it out for a spin yesterday and when I engaged the PTO, currently there is a 42 in side discharge mower deck on it, there were sparks flying from the disk directly below the muffler (maybe the flywheel or clutch?). Any idea what that may be and what needs to be addressed? Thank you !!
  7. Capsbearsfan

    Hit something while mowing...

    Hello, I am new here. Sorry if this is not in the correct place. i have a 210-5 (38” single blade) was mowing and hit something hard that shut everything off. I turned the pto off, restarted the engine without an issue, but now the pto will not engage. I did check the belt, and not sure what to look at past that. Any direction would be great. thabk you.
  8. Goat 2141

    Adjustments pto

    Have 520h with 42" snowblower is a way to make adjustments on it the belt to loses.
  9. Goat 2141


    I have 520h when I enge the pto engine die out. I never had any problem before. I was putting on 42" snowblower that's when it happen.
  10. Looking for a cross reference for PTO bearing
  11. Waynesboro VA Dan

    PTO bogs down engine

    I have a 520HC and have put the Deck back on, when I engage the PTO engine starts to die down. So I took the belt off to see if the deck might be dragging it down. Even with the belt off, when I engage the PTO the engine dies down and will cut off if I let it. It runs OK around the house without PTO engaged. I had just mowed with it in early Nov. without issue. Any suggestions?
  12. 69-Raider-10

    69' / 70' Bolens 1254-01 - PTO Coupler

    Hello all. I have a Bolens 1254-01 that Im taking out of retirement and putting back to work as my snow throwing machine. I got it in a trade and it came with a good deck, snow thrower, wheel weights, and chains. I love the spline shaft accessory hookup as I think it will churn up snow better than a belt driven pto. Not to mention the Wisconsin 12hp is in its final stages of life and recently started sending out smoke signals when first started until it warms up. Might as well run it until she quits and rebuild. That being said, I am missing the coupler that attaches the PTO Shaft to the gear box of the attachments. Its a female spline to univeral joint attachment and looks like this. Here is the tractor. I recently gave it a sand/prime/paint but no decals yet until I decide on the modded hood staying or going. I took the pic from the Sam Bolens website. Im looking for a cheaper alternative. Thanks for any help!
  13. a.dumont

    18 Auto PTO

    The only thing missing on my 18 auto is the PTO. I've located the bearings, parts list, and some misc parts but no shaft. Has anyone found a comparable part from a retailer, or have specs that a machine shop would use to manufacture one?
  14. dug611

    D200 Front PTO Plate

    Looking for a front PTO plate only one hole left and its stripped. K532 Any info on other parts #'s that would fix would be appreciated.
  15. My 1989 Wheel Horse 208-4 (well my son's now) PTO has failed. Can someone point me to a parts list or provide the part number? Thanks for the help
  16. Hi I have a 1978 D200 wheelhorse powered by a Kohler twin cylinder engine It is used for grass cutting and has a 48inch cutting deck The manual PTO clutch is shot and I would like to fit an electric one Any ideas where to source a suitable one? Thanks Steve
  17. Hi, I have a 1984 GT-1100 Work Horse (Model A1-11B801). The Thrust Bearing on the engine (B&S 11HP) has went bad and is no longer available from Toro. Does anyone have suggestions as to where I can source a new bearing? Possibly a generic bearing part number or a compatible bearing from another model Wheel Horse? Also the failure caused the keyway in the engine shaft to wear. Has anyone had success with repairing this type of damage with Loctite 660 or similar? Enjoy the attached pictures. Thanks
  18. Had a few questions on the PTO clutch. Just got a new clutch facing for my Raider 12 and am trying to get it install properly and am running into some minor (I hope) issues. 1) It looks like there is a c - clip that is used on the pto sleeve (pic 1 and 3). I didn't see one in the manual but didn't know if one should be there or not to hold the clutch plate from moving to far when installed? 2) The transmission belt guard does not sit flush with the frame anymore like I believe it should. It has been welded (pic 2) at least once to try and make sure it stays as close as possible but it is not completely flush. Is this critical for operation of the PTO? 3) Because of this the rivets hit the belt guard when mounted. I was thinking about putting washers as a spacer to give the pto plate space from belt guard. Would this be a problem or should this work? Any other thoughts or suggestions. Thank you.
  19. bizzo15

    PTO clutch temperature

    Hey guys, so the other day I got one of those infrared "contactless" thermometer the other day as an amazon deal of the day. Tonight I mowed my lawn and when I pulled the tractor back in the garage I decided to shoot the thermometer at various parts of the tractor and I noticed the PTO clutch seemed to be much hotter than normal. It read as high as 190F, that seems a little hot to me. Is it normal for them to get this hot or am I looking at a failure of the clutch?
  20. westgrey


    Does anyone have a pic or drawing of the back of clutch plate 102908. The clutch self destructed before I bought the tractor and I suspect this part was damaged but the manual only shows front view. Thanks
  21. I need a PTO for operating the underbelly mower deck of a 1966 Wheel Horse 856. Anybody got a part number or ideas? Also, anybody got any idea how you could take the welded on sprocket on the end of the auger off and replace it? mine is worn out and don't turn the auger anymore. Thanks in advance, Alex
  22. D-160, 180 and 200. Not the D-250s. I should be doing other things but I'm looking at two Ds. I'm wondering how to value and compare them, not just by condition, age or HP but with or without options like 3-point, front and rear PTOs. I don't see enough of them to get a good grip on the options. How much more is a D with 3-point worth than without. How hard is it to find just the 3-point? Same with the PTOs? I'm not sure I have ever seen the PTOs for sale alone! So far I've never owned or even ridden one and I think that needs to be corrected before I die!
  23. When I got my GT 14 the electric PTO was toast. I had parts from another tractor to use so went the mechanical route. With an OEM lever and custom linkage.
  24. Finally finished the chicken plucker implement. Okay, it ain't purdy, but it's going to be put to use tomorrow. Will take video of it in action. It's a bit on the heavy side, but it attaches in two parts. The primary frame attaches to the tach-a-matic. The secondary frame slides from left to right into a receiver on the primary frame. The secondary belt is installed at this point, the secondary frame is then slid left to take up the slack in the belt. A hand knob on the bottom is tightened to secure the secondary frame and secondary belt. The primary belt is the tiller belt, repurposed, threaded from pto to the mule drive to the 10" pulley on the primary frame. The secondary belt further reduces the rpm 5:1. I designed the gear reduction to be approximately 12:1. For the C-125, that should result in variable speed of the feather plate between about 175 to 280 rpm. I put a photo tach to it and got a reading of about 100 rpm at idle. At WOT it was about 275 rpm. Low end was out of line. Either the engine is idling too slow or I've got some slippage. I'll have to check it more thoroughly as the numbers were jumping around quite a bit. I may not have had the best conditions for accurate measurement. Anyway... here it is! After I use it tomorrow, maybe I'll knock off some of that rust and give it a paint job. Or, maybe I'll just start the next project!
  25. Hi again all, I was using my D160 to till some hard packed earth (first till) and it was working OK, not great, just OK. First pass, was about an inch and a half, two inches at max. The tiller would work, then stall and I'd have to lift the hydro to get it spinning again. I did this a few times then the engine stalled and the starter would not strike. The lights still worked and I could hear the elec PTO clutch 'click' when I threw the switch on/off. I thought maybe I smoked the ignition switch, but I went out the next day and it fired right up. I tried tilling a little more and same thing happened. What am I doing wrong? Is there a thermal protection ckt or something that's causing this? How can I till w/o overloading it? I've read in my 520H manual that you need to run the engine at full throttle otherwise you risk damaging the trans. I assume that's true for the D160 as well? When tilling at full throttle the tiller is really crankin'. So ideally I could run the engine at about 1/2-2/3 throttle in order to slow down the tiller. Looking forward to the group's thoughts, feedback, opinions, advice so that I can till my plot! Thanks in advance, Jeff
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