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Showing results for tags 'ross steering'.
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I was looking for Ross steering parts and "found" the gardentractorpullingtips.com/steering.htm website. I have not ordered anything, only sent an email with questions. Today I noticed the post in the Red Square Links for "not recommended suppliers". I am glad I did not send any money. I am rebuilding a Ross Steering box on a Wheel Horse D180. The Ross Steering box has the code below stamped on the column. SCA 10200 Where can I get these items? - Complete Lower Steering Box Bearing and Cup/Race Kit - Full Set. Includes two plastic bearing cages/ball spacers. - 9/16" Diameter Cam Follower (Steering Pin). - Flanged Sealed Ball Bearing to replace the insert at the top of the column. Looks like it's a little bigger than 1 3/8" OD with a 3/4" ID - “Easy Steer" Upgrade Kit. For models with 3/4" diameter pitman arm stud. I have seen some of these parts on the auction site but was hoping for someplace I could order everything from. Thank You.
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Getting my mess of a d160 rebuilt and found the source of play in my steering. This may also explain the oddball rim. Bottom race. Or is it races now? -----------------------If you don't like modded OEM parts go no further, there be carnage ahead!---------------------------------------- So I went on a hunt for a replacement. Wow those are expensive. No standard bearings even close. Turns out 3/4 x 1-3/8 x 1/2 wheel bearings fit perfect because of their flange. Well almost. The ID is a little off. Adjustment needed. I already ground the lip off. I believe the lips were to hold the bearings for assembly. The flange of the bearing sits nicely in the adjustment cup. Looking down into the cup with bearing in it. Flange side down. Worm alignment with sealed bearing in cup on left. Same as new. The cotter pin hole doesn't line up but there is enough room to drill a new one. End view with bearing installed. To install both top and bottom bearings you have to grind or turn a good portion of the shaft and the lip on the other side. It's only .030 so not to bad. Both bearings installed. Fit nicely against the shoulder of the race on the worm. Worm alignment with both bearings installed. Old outer races removed. tightened snug. Still has full travel and is more centered. No way to install cotter pin. but my alignment cup was so tight it will not come loose. I'm lucky I got it out. End cap with both bearings installed. Hi-tech cap removal tool one ground down wood bit. The sealed bearings sit up against the shoulder of the race and the bearing flanges face away from the worm. The flange may need adjusting depending on who made it. There is no inner seal so it can be greased like usual. I'm not sure how they will hold up to thrust loads but for 6 bucks I'll risk it. I didn't grind near the original races at all so it can be put back to original if need be, minus some metal anyway. Welp, back to painting parts.......
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- ross steering
- d160
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