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Found 10 results

  1. I know in the past someone posted up the sizes/numbers for the o-rings that fit between the hydro pump and the steel lines' manifold blocks on the D-series - I'd imagine the ones at the pump end and rear axle are the same ....? Will be changing my pump soon due to the hydro to engine coupler blew out it's splines and took out the shaft along with it . Evidently a trailer weighing around 2.5 tons was too much.... I'll try to write up a post on how to build a new coupler from a later model C series pump pulley's center ring and a worn D coupler as well - trying to finish up the Ross steering box right now . Sarge
  2. I'm needing the o-ring sizes for my control valve assembly to my D-180. Does anyone have a list of these or the McMaster Carr part numbers? Thanks, Jonathan
  3. Geez, it seems like it's been forever since I've been on here. Hope you guys didn't miss me too much. Based on the fact that I had no notifications waiting, I'm guessing not. Lol! Anyway, I'm thinking of putting an electric clutch on my D-180. Some of you might remember that I replaced the original Kohler K series 18 hp twin with a 25 HP Kohler Command when I broke a rod in the original engine and could not find any replacements. With the modifications I had to make on the clutch linkage, and the fact that I've also outfitted this machine with a 60" deck, the existing manual clutch just can't generate the pressure against the plate that I'd like. The clutch surfaces are fine. Does anyone have any experience with an electric clutch on your D series? I want to maintain the 2 pulley system to drive the rear PTO. What do I need to know? How the heck to those things enen attach to the engine? They all seem like they're earmarked for a specific machine, but are they somewhat universal in design? Some photos would help. I've got a 1 1/8" shaft to work with. Plenty of length to make any forward/aft adjustments.
  4. What started out as a simple task of moving my 6-1/2' x 12' utility trailer to unload it's contents back into the Shed Repair Project after building a new floor turned out to be a really bad day . I figured the weight of the trailer and it's load was probably around 2,500lbs or more and the big D-180 should be able to handle it . Used the 3pt hitch and an adapter to lift the trailer tongue and off I went...until I got to the end of the north drive and the pump coupling on the hydro failed - badly . In hindsight - the trailer probably weighed closer to 4,000lbs the way it felt behind the truck ... Now , the trailer had to be taken off the tractor and put on it's jack ....which didn't work out too well loaded that heavily . Since the trailer was built with 2x3 angle iron on the tongue it decided to fold itself into a pretzel - despite the wheels being blocked tight so it couldn't move . It fell over and I had to use the HI-Lift to get it off the ground . The sight of the trailer falling over in the rear view camera on the Dodge is still well embedded in my memory - I knew that was going to be another large project . The coupling had an earlier repair from last winter's failure - so a pto pin was driven through the hole to get it out back to my work area to be fixed later . It made the short trip , but just barely and the tow valve was frozen tightly . As it turned out , the damage to the D was a much bigger issue..and cost 3 times as much in total . The pic doesn't do the damage any justice - that entire tongue was bent badly - Sand blasted , new tongue built and waiting for paint - Painted , as it sits now awaiting the lights , wiring and re-install the floor decking . All the while - got more work done on the D's pump problem . Found a great used pump , as well as a spare coupling in good shape . After a lot of machine work ($$$) we came up with a solution and everything was back together... After all this I found that both the original mufflers were completely shot and falling apart - so another project ... Bought a pair of 180* mandrel bends , two cone transitions and a pair of @jimkemp 8" mufflers (very nice, btw) . Fabricated the flanges for the engine's exhaust ports , as well as the pipes for the stacks - Spent a lot of time rolling the engine over on the starter to slowly prime the pump back up and finally , after several months - fired Big Ugly to test the exhaust before painting the stacks . No leaks from the hydro thanks to some new o-rings and backer rings from @pfrederi on the hydro manifold , that was a big relief . A bit shocked at the sound of the big opposed twin - somewhat like a Harley running on the choke or something - but overall not obnoxious or too loud .... D180 startup.mp4 If you don't want to wait for the MP4 to load - here's the YouTube link - I don't think the camera's microphone will show the sound too well , but so far I like it . Took a ride around the block , nice having this beast back up and running , finally . Now to finish that dumb trailer....pretty much wasted nearly the whole summer getting all of this done plus the hours at work . I'm about ready for a break but need to get ready for winter . Sarge
  5. Swemill

    My D-180 project

    Unfortunately not allowed to upload more pics here... But you could se my D-180 project if you are interested - with some mods at my site: http://www.bengan.com/predator/ In the meny to the left - click Wheel Horse. I believe that it's quite unique... =) Sorry for the only Swedish...
  6. Thought I should share some pics of work with the D-180. My father needed a new layer with gravel stones on his yard and took the Horse to the local quarry. This is located about 7,5km away and gives a trip about 15km / 9 miles each turn. He drove 5 turns with no problem…. =) The first turn he took a little too much load and nearly got stuck in the hill with spinning tires… He had about 1350kg / 3000 pounds on the wagon. The other turns he got about 500 pounds less. With the biggest load this carriage weight was about 2800kg / 6200 pounds. Fairly heavy and it went very fast downhill’s…. The hydro couldn’t slow the speed down (from full hydro) because of the weight and mechanic brakes would be nice to have… With not full speed on the hydro before the downhill it worked better and it could hold the force.
  7. buffcleb

    18 Auto starts then quits

    So after using our 18 auto last week and it running fine we headed down to the cabin this week and wanted to fine tune the PTO adjustment... thats when the fun started This week the tractor would start, w/ choke, and run for 10 seconds or so then die.... until it died it sounded fine then just putter out... tried it without choke and that had no effect... some of the stuff we have done : We rebuilt the fuel pump a couple of weeks ago... its the original fuel pump... we replaced all the fuel lines and the fuel filter at the same time. The gas tank is also original... We installed a new coil (the old one was leaking fluid but seemed to work) and re-gapped the points last week as well.. after scratching our heads we pulled the carb and cleaned it and adjusted the idle and main jets back to factory specs... the idle jet was set to 2 1/2 turns and the main jet was set to 4 1/4 turns before we set the idle to 1 1/4 and main to 2 turns... that might explain why the plugs were so black when we pulled them... I check the compression on both cylinders and they were both around 95 - 100 psi... Cleaning and adjusting the carb had no effect... it would still fire run for 10 seconds then quit... So here are my thoughts... even with the fuel pump rebuild its not putting out enough pressure... I hooked up a mityvac to the fuel line and did not see much pressure...not the 4 PSI I think is needed... more like just 1 or 2 PSI... I also hooked the mityvac up to the crank case vacuum line and saw a strong pulsing... The original gas tank is a bit rusty... I'm not sure if there is a filter in the gas tank that might not be allowing fuel to flow fast enough... I'm thinking if replacing the fuel pump with an electric one... it might not be the problem but I figure it shouldn't hurt I'm also thinking of pulling the gas tank and replacing it with a boat gas tank until I can clean and seal the current one... I'm thinking (doing way to much thinking ) that these will help but I want to hear others opinions... to me it seems like a fuel delivery problem... do others think this might be the case? if anyone has switched to an electric fuel pump I'd like to know which one... really any help would be appreciated thanks in advance...
  8. Some new pics with my father doing some work for me with the D-180. Must say that it’s a true work horse and it did a great job! It moved a lot of heavy road material this afternoon and actually even ripped up the asphalt with the new tires at some places! =) 27 x 8.5 -15†Skid Steer tires at rear on 7x15†rims and 4.00 x 10†at front on 3.5x10†rims and homefabbed hubs. I have now also connected the hydraulic pump under the tractor to the pto with a driveshaft. Works really well and I can still also use the pto at the front! Next project on this tractor is to fix a foot-hydro control. That would be a great thing together with the loader!
  9. I have a D-180 problem that I posted in another thread about a few days ago, but didn't get any response. I figured I would create a new thread to see if I could possibly tap into the collective wisdom of the group here. A couple of years ago, I picked up a D-180 with an Ark FEL. I really got it for the FEL. After using the tractor a couple of weeks, it lost power. The engine didn't change, but the hydro system had a high pitched whine (almost a grinding whine) whenever I moved the forward/reverse lever. I posted about it here, and got advice that it was the hydro pump. I picked up a used pump, and swapped it out. It is very difficult to swap one of those out with an FEL attached to it, let me tell you. I made an error somewhere along the way, and found it leaking from the manifold that runs to the hydro motor. I didn't have time to remove it, and it sat for the better part of a year. Recently, I moved it into my garage, and I removed the FEL, front grill, and assorted sheet metal. It made it a lot easier to get at whatever bolts I need to, to get the hydro pump out. I got a new set of orings, and removed the hydro pump. I installed them properly, and put it back together. I got the motor running again after sitting for almost a year, and after pressuring everything up, I found the new (used) hydro pump leaking from the control shaft trunion. I tracked down a new seal for it (SKS-6763 in case anybody needs that info), and replaced it. After reinstalling the pump and hooking everything back up, I tried to move it. I got it out of the garage, and down the small slope. It barely had enough power to make it back up the slope. This was the same problem that I had with it originally - lack of power and grinding kinda whine. After I got it back up the slope into the garage, I noticed that it was again leaking from the trunion shaft seal. BTW, the first thing I did when the problem originally manifested was change the hydro oil and oil filter. It uses 10/30 (or 10/40?), and the new oil is very clean. Anybody got any idea what is a) causing the leak from the trunion shaft seal causing the lack of power? Any troubleshooting tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanx in advance, James
  10. Trouty56

    1974 D-180

    W/ PTO Shaft and 3 point hitch. Attachments include the 48 inch S/D mower, 54 inch push blade, and, of course, my daughter!!
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