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Found 29 results

  1. Onan P220 Carb Main Jet

    Hi Guys, I’m cleaning the Onan P220 carb on my 520H. It’s a Nikki 146-0479 carb. I was wondering if the main jet needs An o ring and if so which type and size? There was no o ring when I took it apart. Thanks! John
  2. From when I owned 520-H tractors, this is an Onan remote filter adapter 122-0369 and remote filter base 122-0476. One of the problems with the 520-H is the oil filter and base blocking the airflow across the rear cylinder. This will help by moving the oil filter out of the airflow. You could also adapt a small inline oil cooler at the same time. The old gasket is still in place but I would suggest a new one. There is a port for the low oil pressure sensor on the adapter. I suggest cleaning the relief valve. New hoses of the correct length would be required depending on where you mount the oil filter adapter. Also a plate would need to be fabricated to close off the oil filter hole in the shroud. These have been discontinued for years and are no longer available from Linamar/Onan. Used and sold as is.
  3. Onan 16 (516-H) Fuel in the crankcase

    Good morning gents. Picked up a 516-H the other day and finally got to tinkering with it. Keep in mind it was a sub $400 purchase so the plow and the fact that it runs at all is a good thing. Now when the air filter cover came off it was dripping with a mixture of gas and oil. Seems like it was blowing out of the breather maybe? Then after the old oil was drained (or should I say the 30:1), new oil was added and it was run for a few minutes. Oil was drained and it reeked of gas. Any suggestions on how to tighten this up? Motor need a valve job and rings? As always, your input is valued and appreciated! Here's some pics of exterior motor. Thanks again!
  4. Onan to kohler k series swap

    I have a wheel horse 516-h and I am looking to swap in a kohler single cylinder model like a k-341 or k321. Or a magnum series single cylinder. Does anyone have any idea what the swap will entail, what parts will carry over and what things I should look for on the kohler. Also I believe the mounting plate on the current set up can be removed to fit a kohler perfectly like they would be set up on like a 310-8. In new to wheel horse so I appreciate anyone's help! Thanks!
  5. Okay, INTRODUCTION: So if you've problem solved all other aspects regarding your non-starting Onan engine with electronic spark control and come to the conclusion that you need to replace the Ignition module, keep reading. This is a decent step by step and doesn't require the engine to be removed the from the tractor. Although it might be a little easier to work on while on a workbench. The part numbers for the Module and ring if needed are below: Ignition Module: 166-0785 Spark Ring: 166-0767 Here is a list of the tools that I needed to complete the job from beginning to the end. They are named from left to right in the photo with the tools at the top of the photo last from top to bottom. TOOLS: [From left in Photo] 1. T25 (for the stator screws but also may be three 5/16" head screws) 2. Phillips and Flat Head Screw Drivers 3. Needle Nose and standard slip joint pliers 4. Flywheel puller with 2 5/16" x 18 grade 8 bolts and washers (mine is technically a steering wheel puller) 5. 7mm and 5/16" deep well 1/4" sockets 6. 3" 3/8" drive extension, 3/8" socket 3/8" drive, 5/8" socket 1/2" drive and 5" 1/2" drive extension. 7. 1/4" Socket Driver 8. 5/8" open end box wrench 9. 3/8" and 1/2" drive ratchets [Top of photo- top to bottom] 10. Flash light (optional but very helpful at times) 11. Pry bar (used to lock flywheel from turning) 12 1/2" Torque wrench 13. Old Tooth Brush (for cleaning of dirt if needed) PROCESS: - Obviously the first thing to do for safety sake is to shut of the fuel at the tank and remove the battery cables - Next, remove the two screws that hold the fuel pump onto the shroud, move the pump off to the side and replace the screws into their holes for safe keeping. - Carefully pull the fuel pump away from the shroud enough to work the hose clamp out and use the pliers to pinch the hose clamp and remove the vacuum line for pump. - Tie the fuel line, wiring harness, choke cable and battery cable all out of the way towards the rear of the tractor allow easy access to remove the shroud. - Next remove the air cleaner box cap, then air cleaner cap and air cleaner tray by removing the three 5/16" screws from the carb and the two 3/8" screws from the tray and put all aside and out of the way. NOTE: Close the Choke all of the way and stuff a clean paper towel into the top of the carb to prevent debris contamination. - Next, twist the air filter box bracket to the left (right side up and left side down) to clear space and use the 7mm, 5/16" and 1/4" socket driver to remove the black condenser wire, the red and black ignition module wires and the yellow ignition switch wire from the coil and then remove the coil using the 3/8" socket. (optional as it can be kept on the shroud but makes it a little more difficult.) - Next loosen the rear cylinders top shroud and engine hoist mount bolt with the 1/2" 3/8" sock and extension. (no need to remove the bolt as the shroud just needs to move freely. - Next, locate the wire retaining clip at the top of the shroud by the coil and open it up so the oil pressure sensor, stator and ignition module wires can all be removed when taking out the shroud. - Last step before removing the shroud is to disconnect the throttle to gov arm spring and the throttle cable using the 5/16" socket and driver. -Next locate all of the shroud bolts and remove using the 3/8" socket. - To remove the shroud, pull the bottom out first and then shift the entire piece upwards while working it from underneath the rear cylinder shroud, underneath the filter box bracket and over the flywheel on the left side. Work slow so you don't bend or brake anything and it will come off pretty easily. - Although everything was fairly clean in comparison to other engines at this step, my shroud was dirty and this can slightly decrease air flow which is important to maximize and keep optimal with an air cooled engine. So I took mine outside and pressure washed it to give it time to dry completely before reinstall. Shroud off... - Next, place the pry bar into the fins of the flywheel and lock the flywheel in place by placing the handle of the pry bar under the foot rest. Then use the 5/8" sock, 1/2" extension and loosen up the flywheel bolt about 3/8" -1/2" out of the hole. This needs to stay mostly in as a pressure point for the puller. - Next, remove two of the flywheel grill center bolts and then use your two 5/16" grade 8 bolts and attach the puller to the flywheel while keeping the puller parallel to the surface of the flywheel to allow equal pulling pressure on both sides of the puller while cranking on the center pressure bolt on the puller. - Now it's time to remove the flywheel. It may be a good idea to use the 5/8" open ended box wrench to stop the flywheel bolt from turning while cranking on the puller center bolt. - It should only take a 3-5 good cranks after finger tightening the center bolt and the flywheel will give a good pop and be ready to be pulled off. Don't forget about the flywheel bolt first! - Next, carefully pull the flywheel off of the crank being very careful not to get caught on the stator itself. My flywheel was pretty dirty on the inside and between the magnets so I felt it necessary to use the toothbrush and air gun to clean it out. - Now you'll need to remove the stator by using either 5/16" socket or T25 torque bit or driver. - Next, set the stator off to the side securely on a clean rag or similar. Underneath, you'll see the ignition module on the bottom side of crank. There are two 5/16" head machine screws. Remove those and open the wire retaining clip on the side of the gear cover and the module comes right off. Make sure not to lose the black rectangular insulator that goes between the module and gear cover. That needs to be there. I'm not 100% sure but I have a theory that these modules may potentially go bad from getting covered with grass and debris over time from not blowing out the air shrouds with a leaf blower or air gun after each use. This debris builds up enough to cause insulation around the module. The module being an IC (Integrated Circuit) is designed to handle only so much heat. Over time the extra heat and expansion with contraction when cooled back down causes a when point in the modules chip circuitry and eventually breaks. Thus causing the engine to shut off during operation for the first time. Once the engine cools, the chip materials contract, allowing the circuit to bridge again only until the engine heats up enough to break that signal and then becomes a cycle until replaced. - Moving on.. While everything is out, if needed (or your OCD kicks in), clean the cylinder heat syncs and general area before re-installation of the Module, Stator, Flywheel and Shroud. Mine wasn't to bad so I quickly used the toothbrush and air gun to break free any layered gunk and blew it off with air. -Next, once the insulator, module (and spark ring if chosen to) and stator are all reinstalled and screws all snugged up, carefully put the cleaned flywheel back on, install the flywheel bolt with a tiny tad of anti-seize on it and use the pry bar again in the flywheel fins but with the handle on top of the foot rest and use the 5/8" socket, extension and 1/2" torque wrench set to 55lbs and tighten up the bolt. At this point, go ahead and reinstall the Shroud making sure that the fuel pumps vacuum line is accessible through the front hole in the shroud, along with the shroud bolts, coil, coil wires (spark, condenser, module and switch) and tighten rear shroud bolt. NOTE: Yellow Switch wire, red module wire and black condenser wires all go on the Positive coil terminal (7mm nut) which should be on the right side of the coil. Only the black module wire goes on the left terminal. Connect the throttle to Gov arm spring, throttle cable, install the fuel pump vacuum line again and replace mount screws. - Lastly, re-install the filter tray, remove the paper towel from the carb, along with installing the air cleaner, pre-filter and clean cap and shroud to filter tray pipe. Then connect the battery and turn the fuel back on. This should get you going again. I think that I got everything but please feel free to comment on anything that I missed as far as documenting the steps or ask any questions about the process. Hope this helps you see that it's not that bad of process to replace the ignition module (And spark ring if needed as some recommend replacing the module , ring and coil all at the same time). I had to first remove this module from a P220G that was on my bench and awaiting repairs but the whole process took me a few hours. A good Saturday Morning task to be up and running by the afternoon for some work before the heat hits. I also ran the tractor for well over and hour after install to insure all was well. I went from a warm up process of idling and then a lap around my property. Did that a few times while repairing a cutting deck and then installed the cutting deck and mowed the lawn. No issues. Ran great! Take Care and God Bless! Andrew C.
  6. 312-8 vs 516-H purchase?

    Hello fellow Wheel Horse fans, I have owned a 312-8 for a few years now, and it has been very good to me. The unit was obviously purchased used, and at the time of purchase I didn't notice that the 42" deck that came with it was much older than the mower. The deck I have has always been pretty junkie, but now started to have some actual issues. The center double "D" pulley has rounded out, and a spindle has broken. I have been looking into getting repair parts, or just buying a different deck all together since i can't find very reasonably priced ones. So here is where the question comes in. I have found a reasonably priced unit in the area for sale that is a 516-H model. So a little larger engine, year or 2 newer, a 48" working deck, and hydrostatic would be a nice upgrade for me, but it sounds like this model was considered undesirable. Is this just because of the technology that was starting to exist at the time of it's release, or was it considered to not be that great of a machine? My 312 has about 1800 hours, and the mower itself runs great. The 516 apparently does not have working gauges at the moment, and burns some oil. Any opinions on what you guys would do in this situation? Any opinions between the 12HP Koehler and the 16HP Onan engines? Any help would be appreciated, Thanks.
  7. ONAN P220 on 520H won't start

    Well, I put the washers on the flywheel side of the engine and that seems to be working better as far as the starter to flywheel, but the engine won't start. I have a new coil, condenser, plug wires, plugs (not sure about the correct gap though), and a new electric fuel pump with filter. The mower ran one time and mowed the yard a month ago but has not started since then. It started one the first crank when I put all that in new. Is it possible the coil has failed? I even put the old plugs back in to see if that was the issue. The were not burnt. What should I check to test possible failures of the coil or fuel? I think the fuel is going to the carb but not sure if this is enough pressure? Not ready to give up yet...
  8. ONAN 16 hp

    Just blew the 16hp ONAN on my 416-8. Anyone either have a used one for sale or know a reputable dealer for rebuilt units?
  9. On a 1992-1996 520H wheel horse lawn tractor, I have replaced the starter motor and flywheel. I also replaced the coil, condenser, plugs and wires. After all that was done, the tractor started first time cranked and I mowed the 1 acre yard one time. When I went back to mow again it would not start and I see the starter motor is now chewing up the flywheel gears. The new flywheel now has severe burring on the engine side. It looks like the starter is not fully engaging into the flywheel. The mounting bolts have a thick washer. Are those washers supposed to be spacers between the engine and the starter motor, thus moving the nose of the starter closer in toward the flywheel? Am I doing something else wrong?
  10. Version 1.0.0

    51 downloads

    This is an Onan Service Manual written for John Deere that has much useful information, pictures, and diagrams pertaining to both JD and Wheel Horse 224 pages 3.4MB B43E B43G B48G P218G P220G T260

    Free

  11. I got a new coil for my 1988 520-HC. I was having problems starting it when hot. I tested the old coil primary and got 3.3 ohms, the new coil was 3.4 ohms. The secondaries were open on the old coil and 21.66 k-ohms on the new coil. I got some metal bar stock with holes in it at Lowes to make brackets. I used a hose clamp to attach the brackets to the coil. I clamped the brackets to a large socket and cut a little at the bend so it would bend completely around the socket. Then I beat it around with a hammer to form the curve to go around the coil. The tractor started right up and ran great. I was about to mow with it and I noticed I had a flat in one of the front tires It would not pump up and it has a tube in it.I took the wheel off and the tire off the rim and found a big hole in the tube then I found a lot of wire coming out through the bead where it contacts the wheel I have four lawns to mow tomorrow and I desperately need a tire or tire and wheel. @ericj do you have anything I can use? I tried to pm you and it won't let me. It says " ericj cannot receive messages. " when I try to send it.
  12. Does anyone have a working used one for sale or a place to repair them?Thanks,Sam
  13. My 1988 520-HC (I did get lots of snow that's an old picture) starts up great at first but after running it awhile it will not start back up. It cranks over fine it just does not start. I sprayed starting fluid in the carburetor and that does not help. When I let it sit for a few hours and come back to it, it starts up fine. Today I was cleaning up some snow and it worked great while it was running. I ran it out of gas earlier today and when I filled it up it did not start until a few hours later. I put it back in the shed when I was finished with it and when I shut it off I tried starting it back up in a couple minutes and it did not even attempt to fire up. Does anyone have any ideas what might be wrong with it?
  14. I have a Wheel Horse official Onan service tool kit. ON-420-0556 All parts are included and it is completely unused.
  15. Onan P220 Fuel Pump

    Hi, I have a Toro mower with an Onan P220 engine that won't start after sitting for a year. Last year I had a Toro dealer clean and rebuild the carb because it was surging. It ran fine for a while but the surging happened once or twice, not as much as it used to. It will start and run if I put gas or starter fluid into the carb but once that's removed it stops. I've replaced the fuel filter and narrowed down what I think the problem is to the fuel pump because I don't see any gas coming out of it. There is a clear line from the gas tank to the pump and I tried priming the line with gas. I can feel a slight suction on the intake of the pump when I crank it but I'm not sure its right. The back of the pump has what I think is a vacuum line attached. There isn't much play in it and it disappears behind the blower housing. Where does it connect to the engine? I'm thinking it might have a leak and need to replace it. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks...ed
  16. Starter Switch 103990

    I have a NIB starter switch for an onan or magnum engine. Toro PN 103990. $15 + shipping
  17. I have a low hour Onan that I bought off of @zieg72. I believe it had somewhere around 450 hours on it. He pulled it because he found a low hour replacement thinking he was loosing compression, but found out the valves just needed adjusting. Below is the video he sent me when I first bought it. Good guy. I have stored it as a backup, but I found a super low hour 520 instead. I have never run it or done any adjustments because I don't have a test bench to run it on. I was planning on just finishing it up when in a tractor. The wiring on it is incomplete it is missing the voltage regulator and it does not come with a muffler. I have a replacement wiring harness and a good muffler that I will sell separately if interested. Asking 350 OBO. Please contact with any questions!
  18. Hey guys, I have a thoroughly abused 520 that a buddy gave me. I've been slowly checking it out and making a list of things that need to be fixed. I just pulled the spark plugs and sprayed a little oil down the cylinders and spun the starter to check for compression (without a gauge). The front cylinder has great compression (almost sucked my finger in), the back one has almost nothing. Will I damage anything if I get it running with the bad cylinder to continue checking out what needs to be fixed? In other words would it OK to run a 520 with bad compression on a cylinder? I won't be working it or anything. Does anyone know how involved it is to replace the rings on the back piston? For those who may care, here is my list thus far: [ ] Check valve clearance [ ] Replace spark plugs [ ] Replace air filter [ ] Replace fuel filters [ ] Change oil [ ] Find air box cover [ ] Replace? Fuel pump [ ] Replace fuel lines [ ] Intake, exhaust and carb gaskets [ ] Clean carb [ ] Fix choke [ ] Replace burnt wires [ ] Replace fuel cutoff [ ] Fix compression in back cylinder [ ] Replace rear lights If there's anything else I should be checking out, please let me know. This is my first horse, my first riding mower, and my first project. So I don't exactly know what I'm doing. And like I said, this was abused. You'd never guess it has 300 something hours on it. Thanks so much.
  19. Onan Engine Identification Help

    Hello, I'm new to the site and I'm hoping I can find some help with identifying a crossover engine or parts for the Onan Generator I'm having an ignition problem with. If this thread is too unrelated specifically to tractors, please delete thread - I'll understand. If ok with the thread, the problem I'm having is that I have a 1989 Onan 9KW MME (2 Cyl.) marine generator that has a faulty electronic module (igniter) that needs to be replaced. Normally this is as simple as going to one of the Onan parts sites and purchasing for 80 or 90 bucks - as most of them are priced. But for whatever reason, Onan (Cummins) has chosen to price this particular electronic module at over $1,500. Some of the sites I visited have listed this part at over $2,000. My question and the help I'm looking for is whether anyone has any knowledge of a crossover electronic module (or the whole distributor assembly) that can be used with this Onan engine? I'm hoping Onan used a similarly enough 2 cyl. engine in their tractor line where the same (or similar enough) module could be used and is considerably cheaper. Onan references the the electronic module as part# 186-3203 and sometimes calls it an igniter. Thanks again for any help! -Mike
  20. 520-8 Surging problem

    I recently acquired a 1990 520-8. Great shape. 458 hours. Changed fluids, cleaned, etc. and runs great. EXCEPT when it's been running a while and under load from the mower deck. Surges badly. Have had it to a mechanic twice. Second time he cleaned the carburetor and pronounced it fixed. Same thing. Any suggestions?
  21. Hello Everyone, First off I would like to say this is a great forum, heaps of information, helpful people and respect for machinery! This is the story of my Horse, it was traded in at work on a new machine (not sure what the customer bought but in my opinion they got the raw end of the deal), I was immediately interested in it as I have seen a lot of lawn tractors but nothing like this before, it was in a sad and sorry state it did not run but the panels were all straight and was complete. I got it home and replaced the battery and checked over the engine, it cranked and started once primed, the sound of the Onan roaring to life is amazing. I have done some cleaning on it, polishing the hubcaps makes it stand out, they are not perfect but look good still! My intent is to give it a good clean, fix anything that is on the way out or missing. I am currently tossing up having to repaint some areas around the pump and bonnet, I know since it is after 1990 'Toro Red' is the preferred colour over Rust-Oleum Regal Red, what is everyones thoughts? And here is some pics! Love at first sight! After its clean (looking good) Getting down and dirty (Probably the heaviest engine i have had to move) Yummy, frequent cleaning would have prevented this (and a air blower would help) After its clean! Will keep you all posted!
  22. Onan 20HP for 520 HC (1989)

    Hi All, New to the forum - from Australia and looking for an Onan 20HP for my Wheel Horse 520 HC - I'm not that good a swimmer so someone would need to be prepared to go through the hassle of sending this engine to me in Australia - and to be honest I have no idea of the amount of work/effort that would take from your end there. I am after an engine that is is good to great working condition too please. All help/assistance would be appreciated. I have had my 520 for 14 years and it is a lot like me - looks terrible, old and beaten up but still works great (it doesn't look at all like the ones on the site here - they are like new!!!! congratulations to you all). i have maintained and had the 520 serviced twice per year (minimum) but just two weeks ago it blew up - short blocks need to be re-chromed so my mechanic tells me (I am not mechanically skilled at all, I may have the explanation mucked up a little/lot!!) thanks in advance - Paul from Warragul Australia!
  23. First post. Been lurking for a year. So I caught the Wheel Horse bug last year when I bought a '90 520H. Had about 950 hours. Came with 42" deck and plow. Guy I bought it from was really decent and said that the rear cylinder was starting to lose compression. When tested it was lower than I liked but not horrible. As I recall right around 100 hot, maybe just below. (Note to self: clean out fins after every use.) The guy also threw in a blown Onan 20 from another 520 swap he had done. I bought this with the full understanding that, sooner or later, I was going to be facing the dilemma I am now facing. Unfortunately, it is sooner. I ran the tractor all summer, cutting a total of about 2.5 acres of ground every week or so. Was dutiful about clearing fins, but it was pretty dusty a couple times when I cut. Did service the breather once. Fell in love with that machine! Couldn't wait for a snowfall to push it around with the blade. In the mean time the guy I bought from had a 60" deck I had been eyeing when I picked up the tractor, and he offered it to me at a good price. Picked it up, installed it and used it for last cut of the season - a really dusty one, I might add. Ran like a dream! Deck was perfect and cut my time down considerably. I had a little slippage on PTO start up, but once moving, that deck screamed! After that last cut, I parked her in the equipment shed, put some stabilizer in the fuel, patted her nicely on the hood and wished her a good winter until the snows fell. A few weeks later, I happened to be in the equipment shed and thought I would turn her over just to keep the carb clear. She started, but she was not happy about it. When I pulled her out, it was pretty clear she was only running on one cylinder. After a while I could feel the second one kick in. Hoping against hope, I changed the plugs, thinking one might have gone bad. Nope. So, because I didn't have time that day to fiddle further, I let her sit for a few more weeks. When I came back, I could not get her to start at all, until I took off the breather assembly, and then it was ragged. After a while she would not run at all. Upon inspection I realized that it looked like spurts of fuel were coming out of the top of the carb assembly. Cold compression was 95 on the front cylinder and 5, yes 5, on the back. OK, so I've now gotten past denial stage and moved on to acceptance. I need to do something. I have lots of options. I am assuming that I have a valve problem on the engine currently in the tractor. May be something else, but, come on, its an Onan PG 220 and these are fairly classic symptoms... I think I just put it over the edge with that big deck. I probably could have babied it for another season with the smaller deck, but I had to save time!!! I don't really know what is wrong with the spare/part engine the guy threw in, but I am assuming the same thing. (Yes, I know what assuming does.) So here is (are) the question(s): Do I take these Onans to someone (because the guts of an engine, outside of maybe repairing or replacing a carb, are beyond my current skills set) to try to patch together a workable engine from them? Do I just chuck it and do a complete swap with a new engine? (which I feel fairly confident I could accomplish on my own.) And if so what engine? Options - HondaGX690, a Vanguard of similar size, the HF Predator, and maybe a Kohler. In giving your advice recognize a few things: 1. I HAVE the money to go all out on the replacement, but I am cheap as hell. The predator appeals to the second part of that. Have looked at the thread of the guy who did that replacement, so it looks simple enough, but wonder about the long term durability. 2. Similarly, I can probably afford whatever it would cost to combine engines, but, again, I am cheap as hell. I hate paying someone else to do work for me that I could do myself, or do the substitute of. Also, I worry a bit about the long term logic of fixing a 25 year old engine with another 25 year old engine. At the same time, I really loved the way that Onan roared. 3. I am fairly mechanically capable, but with limited knowledge or tools for progging around in the internal workings of an engine. Hook ups and problem solving for a retrofit should be no problem though. 4. Time is not a huge issue. I currently have a POS mower that does the job, but, sadly, is not a WH. I want to RIDE again, though.... Hit me with your best shot...
  24. Hi Have just got a 316-8 mowed the lawn and then ran out of petrol just as it was getting dusk . Now it won't start. What I have noticed that I did not before is that when you turn the ignition on the oil light comes on. I have looked up the manual which says that on a 312 and 310 if the oil is low the engine won't start. Is that the same with the 316-the manual shows that it has an oil light but isn't specific about what its for( pressure or low oil) My question is ,on a 316 is the oil light on when you turn the ignition on ,then goes off as the engine fires up and it gets oil pressure , or if the light is on when the ignition is turned on ,( and the engine is short of oil) the engine will turn over but not start ( as mine does). The oil level is just above the minimum on mine at present. Any help much appreciated. Nick
  25. Two years ago I sent my 1996 416H to the dealer I bought it from, to take care of an oil leak near the PTO. Though the engine had been running good otherwise, I also requested a compression check. The compression check suggested that the FRONT cylinder was a little weak and could use a new head gasket. (REAR cylinder compression was very good.) The work was done, no more oil leak, head-gasket replaced, and the engine sounded great. BUT, I immediately noticed that air flow blowing out the right side of the engine compartment, which would cool the rear cylinder, was only about a third of what it used to be. Air flow used to be quite strong. It didn't concern me at the time because the tractor ran fine plowing my 100 foot driveway after a dozen or so snowfalls last winter. Comes spring, I put the mower on and started cutting my grass. After about 45 minutes of mowing the engine loses power. Dealer picks it up again. REAR cylinder gets new head, gasket, valves, and seats. I tell the dealer and his tech person about the reduced air flow to the rear cylinder (and ask that they check for any obstructions, grass, leaves, or dead animals), but they say that's normal for this model tractor. I get the tractor back again, and it runs OK for several months. Again it goes back to the dealer because a valve seat came loose. It gets repaired "as good as possible" says the dealer. I mention the poor air flow to the rear cylinder before getting the tractor back, but he says can't find anything obstructing the air. Again, I got the tractor back, used it very little during this past summer because of a long dry spell that we had here in Connecticut. It ran OK with the minimal use it got. A few weeks ago I took it out to mulch some left over leaves in my yard (air temp about 65F that day). After about an hour of use, it loses power...rear cylinder again. (BTW, the rubber seal around the oil filter is where it's supposed to be.) Any helpful suggestions, ideas, or diagnosis would be much appreciated.
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