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Found 15 results

  1. I 'm making this thread on the partial restore of my 312 that I introduced here a few weeks ago.. This will give me a place to post the many questions I'll encounter. The current plan is to get it running and see what other bugs it has besides carb cleaning, Then I plan to give all the sheetmetal a good paint job. Currently not sure about how far I'll go on painting the tractor chassis. My initial thought was this was going to be by worker garden tiller tractor. My oldest son was home this past weekend and when my wife asked what he wanted for Christmas he promptly said that " old red tractor dad is working"on would be great for his new house. ......so you can see where this is headed! He's actually a fairly good mechanic, so his hands will get dirty before this is completed I've sand blasted and painted the rims so I can get some wheels under it. I used XO-Rust Aluminum for the first coat and it was too silver. Then I used some Rustoleum High heat engine paint for the second coat and it looked a lot closer to the original gray-silver. The book says it came with 23x9,50-12 rear tires. The original tires were terribly dry rotted. Today I saw some 23x10.5-12 reat tires on Craigslist. Can anyone tell me if they will fit or will they be too wide? since I'm in Texas I won't need inside room for snow chains. As i previously mentioned the engine would run when i sprayed gas into the carb, but not on it's own. The fuel system was very gunked up after sitting for a couple of years. I've cleaned the tank, replaced tank grommet, valve, hoses and filter. I soaked the carb for 3 days to dissolve the hard grey/black residue that was built up on the top bowl faces and everywhere. My carb parts kit came and valve cover gaskets came in today. This weekend i hope to adjust the valves and clean the breather, Then reassemble the carb. Looking forward to hear how it will run. Most of the sheet metal has surface rust, but the rear fender pan has some heavy pitting. I didn't see a 1985 tractor manual for the 312-8 on the website, did I miss it? I found the 1986 manual and noticed it listed an hour meter and alarm lights on the dash that mine doesn't have. Were these options in 86, or new in 86? As a newbie, I appreciate the warm welcome and appreciate your kind guidance!
  2. Morning - Looking for a carb. There are plenty of carbs on the 'net, but 99% do not fit because of the choke configuration. Background info: Engine - K321S, 14 Horse Kohler. Choke control cable is routed to come from BELOW the carb. To close the choke, pull on the choke knob, the choke shaft rotates counter clockwise, and the finger tab sits at the 10 o'clock position. To open the choke, push on the choke knob, the choke shaft rotates clockwise, and the tab sits at the 1 o'clock position. Where can I get his carb? Thanks in advance.
  3. 67 WH 877

    Oil bath filter

    When I purchased my WH (67 T877) it had the incorrect oil bath filter on it (it bent the front of the grill out) I took it off and placed a regular filter using just the oil bath cover. My question is...is it ok to run these Kohlers without the oil bath filters? I know they are better filters, but Im curious if the modern filters are sufficient.
  4. r1jakecfd

    Onan P220 Carb Main Jet

    Hi Guys, I’m cleaning the Onan P220 carb on my 520H. It’s a Nikki 146-0479 carb. I was wondering if the main jet needs An o ring and if so which type and size? There was no o ring when I took it apart. Thanks! John
  5. Seacrestbf

    Bogging Down

    Hello, I have a D 200. It has been running great, I was having a hard time starting it and I replace the filter and fuel pump. Adjusted the carb, and now under heavy load she will bog down and stall. If you are just driving seams fine, but if you tow a trailer with the mower, I boggs and stalls? Carb Issue or Fuel Pump? Thoughts? Thank you Brian
  6. KC9KAS

    Tecumseh H60 75063B

    Looking for the correct carburetor number for a Tecumseh H60-75063B on my 654. This is the correct engine & model number, but I can't determine the carb number so I can buy an aftermarket carb. Thank you!
  7. Team70R

    Free Briggs! Carb trouble as usual..

    Well I scored a gently used Briggs 900 series to repower my new 606! Doesn't have an air cleaner cover for it so I zip tied the filter on after I cleaned all the junk out of the carb and it ran good. Now it will rev slow and die after it idles a second. I'm guessing there's some more gunk in the carb that I either missed or broke free??
  8. Hey All, Is anyone aware of a diagram or detailed pic of the proper way to attach the governor control rod, throttle return spring, and throttle cable on my Lawn Ranger? I found one online but it's still a little unclear. I fiddled with 2 or 3 different ways but it still doesn't seem quite right. The good news is I have HOT spark.......a little scared of myself about how good it felt to see the good spark. My face turned WH red....or at least rattle can Regal Red. Pic is the unhooked version. Any info is appreciated. The little tab that screws to the governor bracket is not in the pic. Thanks!
  9. FatJackDurham

    1972 GT14 Carb cleaning and build

    I just got a GT-14, and its clear it needs a bit of maintence and repair. I am thinking the first thing I should do is get the engine running smoothly. It bogs down and stalls if I open the throttle too far. So, I want to drain the tank, change the air filter, change the fuel filter and clean the carb this weekend. However, I am concerned about the availability of replacement parts and gaskets. I read the K321 manual about servicing the carbs and the only items it mentioned replacing were float nut gasket, the bowl ring gasket, the needles and seats, and the bowl baffle gasket. I was curious why there were no o-rings mentioned for the adjustment needles. Are there none? And where do you guys get replacement gaskets? I remember someone said that the float nut gasket can be gotten from a hardware store, but what about the bowl ring and baffle gaskets? My intention was to disassemble and soak the whole carb in aqua seal, but I don't want to dissolve any important rubber parts.
  10. northstar714

    1960 suburban H55B

    Hello guys need a little help on factory carb settings for Tillston E2. Just need to know where to start. 5.5 Lauson starts but floods out. Clean plug and fires again for about 30seconds. Please any help would be appreciated.
  11. northstar714

    1960 suburban H55B

    Hello guys need a little help on factory carb settings for Tillston E2. Just need to know where to start. 5.5 Lauson starts but floods out. Clean plug and fires again for about 30seconds. Please any help would be appreciated.
  12. Dan693

    HH100 Carb and Mentone Show

    First my carb question....my original carb from my 115145b techy is shot. Stripped main jet etc. After quite a bit of research I believe the 631304A carb is the one I need but it appears to be NLA. I bought a new 631304B and its due in a day or two. It looks to be nearly identical to the A version. Anyone know if the new carb with be a problem? Please don't break my heart lol. Second...the Mentone WH show in April. Are there many restored tractors for sale at the show? Also is there usually some WH signage for sale? I have a friend that may be looking for a restored RJ 58 or 59 and may also want some WH signage for his garage. D
  13. Hey Guys, First time posting here. Just recently bought my first home, I have an acre to mow. I have my grandfathers old c-125 with a Kohler k-301. I stopped getting fuel pressure and parked it years ago. Recently I got it back out and decided to get it going for the new place. I bought a brand new pump, you know the plastic knock off kind? Well the motor is not hitting the arm on the pump to make it pump. So I bought a electric fuel pump that puts out 3-6 psi. Now the mower somewhat runs, it is flooding and spraying fuel out the front of the carb. Is this because the pump is too powerful, or is something wrong with the carb? Mind you I can work on anything, I work on cars all the time but don't know jack when it comes to carbs. Thanks in advance to any help.
  14. slantram

    Really CLEANING a carb.

    I've read of many ways to clean a carb. Here's what I do and it works very well 99.9% of the time. Disassemble completely-place in an empty coffee can-pour in enough Strypeeze Paint and VARNISH remover to cover the carb and let it soak for a couple of hours or overnight. Remove and rinse with HOT water then spray with carb cleaner in all the small orifices and blow off with compressed air. Even if this is one of those carbs that is green and stinks to high heaven it will come out looking BRAND NEW. slantram
  15. lincman

    Carb trouble

    I have a '97 520H that is having a carb issue. It starts up fine, then it runs fine until 20 or so. Then it starts to faulter. Like it shuts off by itself. If I choke it it keeps running until I get it back to the garage. Took the plugs out, and they were fouled. Cleaned them up, put 'em back in. This time it ran for 40 mins no problem until I engage the hydro and start plowing. The horsepower % gauge moves the left (I believe it's a vac gauge). Before the engine dies it smells rich and vapor comes out of the carb. The choke was sticking open, so I put my hand over the the throttle body and it (my hand) smelled of gasoline. Any thoughts and tips would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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