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Found 3 results

  1. Duramax7man7 (Mastiffman)

    Onan P-Series Ignition Module Replacement [Photos]

    Okay, INTRODUCTION: So if you've problem solved all other aspects regarding your non-starting Onan engine with electronic spark control and come to the conclusion that you need to replace the Ignition module, keep reading. This is a decent step by step and doesn't require the engine to be removed the from the tractor. Although it might be a little easier to work on while on a workbench. The part numbers for the Module and ring if needed are below: Ignition Module: 166-0785 Spark Ring: 166-0767 Here is a list of the tools that I needed to complete the job from beginning to the end. They are named from left to right in the photo with the tools at the top of the photo last from top to bottom. TOOLS: [From left in Photo] 1. T25 (for the stator screws but also may be three 5/16" head screws) 2. Phillips and Flat Head Screw Drivers 3. Needle Nose and standard slip joint pliers 4. Flywheel puller with 2 5/16" x 18 grade 8 bolts and washers (mine is technically a steering wheel puller) 5. 7mm and 5/16" deep well 1/4" sockets 6. 3" 3/8" drive extension, 3/8" socket 3/8" drive, 5/8" socket 1/2" drive and 5" 1/2" drive extension. 7. 1/4" Socket Driver 8. 5/8" open end box wrench 9. 3/8" and 1/2" drive ratchets [Top of photo- top to bottom] 10. Flash light (optional but very helpful at times) 11. Pry bar (used to lock flywheel from turning) 12 1/2" Torque wrench 13. Old Tooth Brush (for cleaning of dirt if needed) PROCESS: - Obviously the first thing to do for safety sake is to shut of the fuel at the tank and remove the battery cables - Next, remove the two screws that hold the fuel pump onto the shroud, move the pump off to the side and replace the screws into their holes for safe keeping. - Carefully pull the fuel pump away from the shroud enough to work the hose clamp out and use the pliers to pinch the hose clamp and remove the vacuum line for pump. - Tie the fuel line, wiring harness, choke cable and battery cable all out of the way towards the rear of the tractor allow easy access to remove the shroud. - Next remove the air cleaner box cap, then air cleaner cap and air cleaner tray by removing the three 5/16" screws from the carb and the two 3/8" screws from the tray and put all aside and out of the way. NOTE: Close the Choke all of the way and stuff a clean paper towel into the top of the carb to prevent debris contamination. - Next, twist the air filter box bracket to the left (right side up and left side down) to clear space and use the 7mm, 5/16" and 1/4" socket driver to remove the black condenser wire, the red and black ignition module wires and the yellow ignition switch wire from the coil and then remove the coil using the 3/8" socket. (optional as it can be kept on the shroud but makes it a little more difficult.) - Next loosen the rear cylinders top shroud and engine hoist mount bolt with the 1/2" 3/8" sock and extension. (no need to remove the bolt as the shroud just needs to move freely. - Next, locate the wire retaining clip at the top of the shroud by the coil and open it up so the oil pressure sensor, stator and ignition module wires can all be removed when taking out the shroud. - Last step before removing the shroud is to disconnect the throttle to gov arm spring and the throttle cable using the 5/16" socket and driver. -Next locate all of the shroud bolts and remove using the 3/8" socket. - To remove the shroud, pull the bottom out first and then shift the entire piece upwards while working it from underneath the rear cylinder shroud, underneath the filter box bracket and over the flywheel on the left side. Work slow so you don't bend or brake anything and it will come off pretty easily. - Although everything was fairly clean in comparison to other engines at this step, my shroud was dirty and this can slightly decrease air flow which is important to maximize and keep optimal with an air cooled engine. So I took mine outside and pressure washed it to give it time to dry completely before reinstall. Shroud off... - Next, place the pry bar into the fins of the flywheel and lock the flywheel in place by placing the handle of the pry bar under the foot rest. Then use the 5/8" sock, 1/2" extension and loosen up the flywheel bolt about 3/8" -1/2" out of the hole. This needs to stay mostly in as a pressure point for the puller. - Next, remove two of the flywheel grill center bolts and then use your two 5/16" grade 8 bolts and attach the puller to the flywheel while keeping the puller parallel to the surface of the flywheel to allow equal pulling pressure on both sides of the puller while cranking on the center pressure bolt on the puller. - Now it's time to remove the flywheel. It may be a good idea to use the 5/8" open ended box wrench to stop the flywheel bolt from turning while cranking on the puller center bolt. - It should only take a 3-5 good cranks after finger tightening the center bolt and the flywheel will give a good pop and be ready to be pulled off. Don't forget about the flywheel bolt first! - Next, carefully pull the flywheel off of the crank being very careful not to get caught on the stator itself. My flywheel was pretty dirty on the inside and between the magnets so I felt it necessary to use the toothbrush and air gun to clean it out. - Now you'll need to remove the stator by using either 5/16" socket or T25 torque bit or driver. - Next, set the stator off to the side securely on a clean rag or similar. Underneath, you'll see the ignition module on the bottom side of crank. There are two 5/16" head machine screws. Remove those and open the wire retaining clip on the side of the gear cover and the module comes right off. Make sure not to lose the black rectangular insulator that goes between the module and gear cover. That needs to be there. I'm not 100% sure but I have a theory that these modules may potentially go bad from getting covered with grass and debris over time from not blowing out the air shrouds with a leaf blower or air gun after each use. This debris builds up enough to cause insulation around the module. The module being an IC (Integrated Circuit) is designed to handle only so much heat. Over time the extra heat and expansion with contraction when cooled back down causes a when point in the modules chip circuitry and eventually breaks. Thus causing the engine to shut off during operation for the first time. Once the engine cools, the chip materials contract, allowing the circuit to bridge again only until the engine heats up enough to break that signal and then becomes a cycle until replaced. - Moving on.. While everything is out, if needed (or your OCD kicks in), clean the cylinder heat syncs and general area before re-installation of the Module, Stator, Flywheel and Shroud. Mine wasn't to bad so I quickly used the toothbrush and air gun to break free any layered gunk and blew it off with air. -Next, once the insulator, module (and spark ring if chosen to) and stator are all reinstalled and screws all snugged up, carefully put the cleaned flywheel back on, install the flywheel bolt with a tiny tad of anti-seize on it and use the pry bar again in the flywheel fins but with the handle on top of the foot rest and use the 5/8" socket, extension and 1/2" torque wrench set to 55lbs and tighten up the bolt. At this point, go ahead and reinstall the Shroud making sure that the fuel pumps vacuum line is accessible through the front hole in the shroud, along with the shroud bolts, coil, coil wires (spark, condenser, module and switch) and tighten rear shroud bolt. NOTE: Yellow Switch wire, red module wire and black condenser wires all go on the Positive coil terminal (7mm nut) which should be on the right side of the coil. Only the black module wire goes on the left terminal. Connect the throttle to Gov arm spring, throttle cable, install the fuel pump vacuum line again and replace mount screws. - Lastly, re-install the filter tray, remove the paper towel from the carb, along with installing the air cleaner, pre-filter and clean cap and shroud to filter tray pipe. Then connect the battery and turn the fuel back on. This should get you going again. I think that I got everything but please feel free to comment on anything that I missed as far as documenting the steps or ask any questions about the process. Hope this helps you see that it's not that bad of process to replace the ignition module (And spark ring if needed as some recommend replacing the module , ring and coil all at the same time). I had to first remove this module from a P220G that was on my bench and awaiting repairs but the whole process took me a few hours. A good Saturday Morning task to be up and running by the afternoon for some work before the heat hits. I also ran the tractor for well over and hour after install to insure all was well. I went from a warm up process of idling and then a lap around my property. Did that a few times while repairing a cutting deck and then installed the cutting deck and mowed the lawn. No issues. Ran great! Take Care and God Bless! Andrew C.
  2. RusTia

    314-8 GT starting issues

    Hi all, I stumbled across this forum while trying to diagnose an issue with a 314-8 GT my dad handed down to me when he bought a new one this past spring. He purchased it in August, 1997 and it has been used for general yard work and lawn mowing. It has had a great life so far with no major issues until late last summer when all of a sudden it would not start. The engine would turn, but not fire up. After some playing around with the carb, I determined that it was not getting fuel when trying to start. However, I would just manually add fuel to the bowl to start it, and it would start right up. Once it started, it got fuel no problem and would run great for hours while cutting grass. A week would go by and I would have to do the same manual adding of fuel to get it to start, but it would run fine again. This went on all summer as I had no time to really look at it. I just assumed it had something to do with the ignition system not activating the fuel pump, but once it turned over, the fuel pump worked as designed. Then one day toward the end of the summer, I turned the key and nothing. No crank at all. The battery is still good and the lights on the panel would light up, but the engine would not turn or even make a sound. In searching the forum, I think I have narrowed it down to ignition module, starter, or solenoid. However, I don't want to order parts that I may not need so I am hoping to get some experienced guidance. My thoughts are that the two issues described above are related. Perhaps the fuel issues in the middle of the summer were symptoms of a part going bad, but still able to limp along. The final issue of not starting was when the part finally gave out. Or, perhaps they are not related and I have multiple things to look into. I would greatly appreciate any information and/or advice. If this is in the wrong forum, I apologize. I thought it would go best in the engine since I am not entirely sure what the issue is.
  3. Hi all: It has been a while since I've posted here, as I've been over at the Garage Journal the past year getting help on my new garage. Need a place to work on the horses. Now that the garage is mostly done, I've pulled in the first of my projects, my Deutz Allis 1920 (rebadged Simplicity Sunstar). Okay, so not a WH, but the horses are the ones actually running! The Kohler Magnum M20 lost spark in one cylinder, had to pull the engine to access the ignition module. An OEM Kohler is about $160, aftermarket no-names are $50-70. A Stens replacement is about $115 Or, which of these three options? http://www.psep.biz/store/kohler_52_584_02-s_ignition_coil.htm What are your thoughts? Don't want to pay OEM prices!
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