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Found 27 results

  1. Flat Thunder Channel

    520-H Ignition Trigger - Replacement

    Hello everyone! I am going to replace the ignition trigger on my grandfather's 520. Any tips, tricks or important things I should know before starting? I already have the parts. I just need to tear into it. I didn't know Cummins owned Onan.
  2. Lost.soul.collecter

    Looking for oil pressure sensor

    I'm looking for a oil pressure sensor for a 520-8 at least that's what I was told it was but it might not be that so if someone know what part it is that would be great as I'm still learning I cant seem to find one anywhere if anyone has a extra one or knows were I can get one the info would be greatly appreciated thanks
  3. Jeff1981

    New member with 520-8

    Good evening, i just traded my way into a 520-8, and am looking for some info on its value. This is my first Wheelhorse- I had been looking for an older one in the style of a c161 hydro or d180 but ended up with this- has the 48” side discharge deck. I’m wondering if I’ve any chance of trading it for an older hydro with 48” mower and snowblower or if I should just bite the bullet and list it for sale... and for how much. Or if I could find a snowblower for this one. It runs and mows great, but is a little big for the 48” deck. Any info would be appreciated.
  4. Gentlemen, You have been very helpful in the past for answering my questions. I am looking at a used 520H that the serial # info was sanded off to paint the pan. This machine has a PTO to Mule Drive plastic cover, no hour meter, foot pads that are not the fine ribbed type but have the wide grooves with buttons holding them down. The lower control knobs are not round but bulb shaped black plastic. The 3 gauges say Toro on them. The top right gauge is a blank black plastic filler. The steering wheel is a three spoke, heavy on the bottom and the wheel is "fat". The mule drive does not have the heavy curved metal shield over the pulleys-possibly a casualty of replacement at one time. The hood is louvered like my 417.
  5. JNMULL

    Charging Issues

    Good morning, I have been a long time reader, but a first time poster. I have a 1988 Wheel Horse 520HC Tractor. Does not charge, and I have to assume that it is due to the fuse at the front of the engine being blown. However if I replace the fuse that is located at the front of the engine, the wire at the voltage regulator will get hot, start to smoke as it melts the wires insulation. I have not started testing anything yet, as I just have stumbled upon this issue and was wondering if anyone else has had the same style of problem and what kind of repair did you have to perform. Thanks.
  6. Didn’t get to swap the loader out for the 44” 2-stage snowblower and cab on the 520-H before the Christmas Day storm. I had the engine out to redo the top end (decarbon, clean and reseat valves, New gaskets, New fuel pump, tubing, filter, plugs and properly seat camshaft Welch plug) so no time to switch over before storm. It’s just another excuse to use the loader! Merry Christmas everyone🌲🎅🏻
  7. Denis L Goulet

    help,stuck in reverse

    hi I am a newbie to wheelhorse tractor,i bought a 1994,520,20 hp,wheelhorse tractor with mower and snowblower,a few days ago I back in garage to put cab,blower and tires and chains on it to prepare for winter.started it up on first turn, considering it was sitting at sellers house about 6 months, everything was fine , backed it up in garage ,worked on it a few days. When came time to leave the garage, started it up it would go only backwards, it would not go in neutral or forward. I put it back up on the jack, wheels turn free opposite sides front or back when stopped. Shifter stuck in reverse when stopped as well, how do I free it up and where is the shifter assembly located, please help thanks.
  8. Hi Guys, I know my voltage regulator is bad on my Onan P220 and was wondering if anyone has an opinion on a replacement, OEM or aftermarket? Also, I checked my stator leads for AC Voltage and got about 25 volts at 3600 rpm on each. Is this OK? I know it says in the 40’s. Thanks guys
  9. lodestonefarm

    Another 520 that won't start

    I went out to use my 520H with blower this evening and it won't start. I used this machine a few days ago (for the first time this winter). The battery has been on a trickle charge so I don't think that's the problem. It's done this before where it won't start, won't start, and then starts. Usually that is in cold weather and after I've previously used it to blow snow. I don't have a heated garage so I think it might have some ice somewhere that was introduced as water the last time I blew snow. Here's what it's currently doing. When I turn the Ignition to 'On' the red warning lights and the dashs light all come on. When I turn the key to start position I get a single 'Click' and nothing more. I tried jumping it from a hot battery just to rule out a bad battery. Same behavior. Following some of the other threads about 520s with trouble starting, I pulled the blue wire off the starter solenoid. If I run a jumper wire from the (+) side of the battery directly to the solenoid I get the same behavior (regardless of key being in on or off position)- small spark where my jumper wire is touching the battery terminal and a single click. I'm unsure what this means about the solenoid and if that, in any way tests, the starter. Could it be that my starter is bad/frozen? I tried using a heat lamp to warm up that area, but in this weather (and my garage, which is really just a tarp shed) that just isn't going to work. I've downloaded the demystification guide and started looking at it but I'm hoping someone might have some suggestions. Snow is falling and I'm not making much headway on this. Thanks
  10. Hi, i have a couple questions if anyone would mind helping me out! I have a 414-8 (i think its an 87) that I would like to swap a few things on to make it work and look a little better to me. The first thing is the front axle... will a 520 swept front axle bolt right in? Is the center pivot bolt the same diameter? I know the outer knuckles are larger 1" on those machine but are they the same height? I figured I could just sleeve the knuckle to keep my stock 3/4" 414 spindles if so Also any info on this john deer 200 series swept front axle swap? anyone know if the pivot and knuckles are all the same diameters on that one? and how much wider is it? This one is actually looking to be an easier swap if the bushings are all the same size Also whats differences on the 520 frames? Are they longer or the exact same frame? Brace for the transmission mount? and mainly just the front axle?
  11. Hello, Anybody have a manual forsale or a download that matches my 1995 520H ?
  12. Hey guys, I have a thoroughly abused 520 that a buddy gave me. I've been slowly checking it out and making a list of things that need to be fixed. I just pulled the spark plugs and sprayed a little oil down the cylinders and spun the starter to check for compression (without a gauge). The front cylinder has great compression (almost sucked my finger in), the back one has almost nothing. Will I damage anything if I get it running with the bad cylinder to continue checking out what needs to be fixed? In other words would it OK to run a 520 with bad compression on a cylinder? I won't be working it or anything. Does anyone know how involved it is to replace the rings on the back piston? For those who may care, here is my list thus far: [ ] Check valve clearance [ ] Replace spark plugs [ ] Replace air filter [ ] Replace fuel filters [ ] Change oil [ ] Find air box cover [ ] Replace? Fuel pump [ ] Replace fuel lines [ ] Intake, exhaust and carb gaskets [ ] Clean carb [ ] Fix choke [ ] Replace burnt wires [ ] Replace fuel cutoff [ ] Fix compression in back cylinder [ ] Replace rear lights If there's anything else I should be checking out, please let me know. This is my first horse, my first riding mower, and my first project. So I don't exactly know what I'm doing. And like I said, this was abused. You'd never guess it has 300 something hours on it. Thanks so much.
  13. Ok , been asked a lot of questions about how I rebuild front axles - unless they are physically broken no axle is really past the wear point of being rebuildable . I'm starting with an early D series front axle and upgrading to a later model D series 1" spindle type with the heavier casting . Since I could never find any pics of a comparison - here we go.... If you look closely - there is an obvious difference in the castings at the spindle end - the later model axles were thicker and larger diameter to accept the heavy duty 1" spindles. Later model (post '75 , I believe). This photo really shows the obvious difference in diameter - early models were much smaller and a thinner casting for the early 3/4" only spindles . Need to find someone with a tape measure and one of the oddball early D-200 1" spindle equipped tractors to find out if those were a thin casting or the thicker type . The machined relief is for the roller thrust bearings that were originally used - if you ever buy a D or I believe the 520's , this is the first thing to check as many were never properly greased and destroyed that bearing . This can really wreck an expensive spindle and make it more difficult to rebuild the axle casting itself . I will be re-machining these reliefs to mimic the factory design to keep dirt out and retain the grease inside the bearing . Early castings , at least on this 18 Auto or D-180 that I have (missing the stupid id tag completely) measures roughly 1-1/2" outside ... Later model upgraded casting is a whole different animal - there are major differences in how they were cast and not just at the spindle ends . Later models were 1-3/4" on the outside . Since I've never seen a new old stock replacement I'm not certain as to the original finish quality of the machining on these things - it is obvious that over time dirt has entered and a lack of proper grease results in the bores being worn badly - some are literally egg-shaped , especially tractors from the late 60's with high hours and heavy use . Snowblowers and other heavy front implements of course accelerate this wear issue - I'm out to cure that and make the unit more serviceable . The biggest , #1 problem with these is how they are greased . I've bought and sold tractors for years and had some that had huge grease balls around the spindles , inside the wheels and all over the front end . At least they were trying but the wear is almost no different than one that was seriously neglected . With the weight on the spindle , the grease is forced upward and exits at the E-clip at the top , never lubricating the bottom where it rides on the spindle base for the steering arm . The correct way to grease these things is to lift the tractor BY THE FRAME , NOT THE AXLE ITSELF . Also , do not lift it by the front mule quick attach - you will bend the cross rod for the latch and destroy it . Best way is to use a block on the frame itself or make a spreader to fit the jack , maybe I can take the time to get pics to show better ways to pick these things up since they aren't exactly lightweight ...lol . No make or brand was exempt from this issue , they all did it . The problem becomes parts availability - there are only so many parts left and finding good spindles and axles is becoming a serious problem . Some brands aren't too bad (such as the green ones) since they still support most of their older models . Unfortunately for us - Toro has chosen to drop these parts and stock is quite limited . I got really lucky and a parts dealer friend had a pair of NOS 1" D series spindles , one of the last pair to exist to my knowledge . Those are getting blueprinted and angles mapped for later - I may tackle making new ones in both the 3/4" and 1" versions . I believe with a little engineering the earlier models made in the 60's could use a sort of generic spindle since there little difference in the many models - it was mostly down to the axle's angles and width . My D will be upgraded to heim joints for the steering . Many of the tie rod and drag link ends are NLA and finding steering arms that don't have the tapered holes wallowed out is getting pretty tough . The low angle taper on those automotive style ends allows them to work loose despite having fine thread castle nuts and cotters - the force required to turn the wheels due to the above mentioned lubrication issues , combined with a gear reduction Ross type steering box makes the holes in the arms wear - I've seen 4 of these spindles on different D's all worn the same way with the tapered factory holes oval in shape and the shanks on the rod ends could be easily turned with a wrench, which should not be possible .Converting to heims is not too hard and less expensive in the long run - the only issue being the left hand threaded rod ends at the steering bell crank (or idler arm) . Since it sits so close to the underside of the frame and being tight quarters we may have to resort to using a reduced size heim joint which are easily obtained if you know the part number systems . I have a NOS pair of factory rod ends (ball joints in the parts manual) so this one won't be getting this upgrade for now . The factory bell crank is subject to wear like everything else . It's buried up under the engine and I suspect most were neglected being so hidden . Inside is a steel bushing riding on the cast iron bore of the bell crank . The retaining bolt , bushing and iron casting all get worn - which results in sloppy steering . On a D that's a real problem since their turning radius is huge to begin with . I've modified mine slightly by moving the turning arc point of the drag link inward by 3/8" - when it's done I'll test and measure the turning radius to see how much it helped and if there is any interference or other issues . Models with working turning brakes in either the stock D-200 or kit-equipped smaller models of course helped when in dirt or grass - just never use those on pavement or hard surfaces since it can really bind things up and possibly cause rear axle damage . It's all mentioned in the manual and instructions for the kits to add turning brakes . Not sure yet if I'll just make a separate thread on the steering parts or include them here - plenty of info to make a long thread on the cast iron axle alone . Depending upon how well it works out I may offer this as another service to the long list of other parts I build or rebuild currently . Guy with a lathe , far too many tools and a TIG welder must stay busy during the long winters....lol . So far, it hasn't been a cheap venture - tooling bits and parts totals are well over $400 and climbing - haven't really started any machine work on the axle as of yet since I'm still waiting on one tooling bit . I will try to document what is used in the rebuild and a parts list as well as sources . All bushings and bearings used will be off the shelf parts so it's nothing that isn't easily available . Lathe work my be required to avoid using custom ordered parts and their associated extra costs . Anyhow , more to follow.... Sarge Going forward
  14. kennethdizeo

    Spark Plug

    what spark plugs cross reference with Champion RH14YC for the Onan 20hp on a 520 ?
  15. TractorJunkie

    520H with Hiller Attachment

    Just of quick pic of my 520 getting ready to hill disc the garden.
  16. Percheron1

    520H muffler

    I'm looking for a muffler for a 1996 520H Toro Wheel Horse part # 116470. We have not been able to locate any. Thanks.
  17. lodestonefarm

    Will this fit my WH 520-H?

    Will an 6-6214 42" snow thrower fit my 520? I've been watching for a blower for this machine and most of what I can find, and afford, are these older models- single-stage, short-chute. From what I can tell this older model would fit the 1975 C-120 and C-160 but I have no idea if it will fit my much newer (1995) 520. Anyone know for sure if this fits, what if any mods it would need? Thanks in advance.
  18. KC9KAS

    520-H Steering

    My 520-H steering is somewhat "sloppy". When I was looking to see where the slop was I noticed that a bolt has been put into a hole through the fan gear & shaft and this is where most of the problem is. My question is....Is this supposed to have a roll pin or is it supposed to be welded.? Thanks!
  19. Hello Red Square Community! My father recently rebuilt a 1990 520-H he found at a junk yard and surprised me with it as a birthday present. I've done a lot of searching for guidance on implements/attachments that will fit this particular model but am coming up short. I would love to get a rototiller, snow thrower, and a blade but I have no idea what will work. My model number is 41-20OE01. Will any wheel horse attachment prior to 1990 work with this tractor? I'm new to this so any help would be much appreciated. Thank you for your time!
  20. I see youtube videos of smaller garden tractors tossing around the 36" Brinly-Hardy disc harrow style discs but has anyone used anything bigger? It may be a stupid question or bad thing to do but I'm just curious. I'm thinking a 520 could theoretically be made to run a hydraulic line set out the back to lift and lower a larger disc. I don't see any reason why with some wheel weights and Ag tires it wouldn't be able to pull a larger disc. I'm not thinking anything huge but maybe a small double gang disc, something in the 4-5' range after taking the outer plates off of a 6' unit?
  21. Several weeks back I was searching the net for a thread that might address the question: Will a chrome 520 muffler heat shield fit a smaller series machine? I found a few bits of information here and there, but nothing that really answered the question. With that said, I hope this thread finds some of you well. Here’s what I initially gathered from reading the net and various conversations: the 520 guard is too long, it needs to be modified, they still offer the chrome guard new thru Toro and all guards are the same. Let me give you the accurate answers based on my recent experience. The 520 guard is a bit longer (illustrated below), depending which guard you get, it does not need to be modified at all, the chrome guard is NOT offered new thru Toro – only the black, and the guards are definitely not all the same. There appears to be 2 different chrome guards and 1 black. One of the chrome guards has mounting holes on the outside edges and the other has the mounting holes set in a few inches from the edge (mine pictured below). I imagine they differed based on the engine – obviously. The black guard (as far as I can tell) is only offered with the holes set in a few inches from the edge. When I bought my 310, the muffler was totally smooth with no mounting tabs welded to it for a guard. I was able to get a muffler from a 414, which was exactly identical but did have the tabs. I then took a gamble and purchased the chrome shield you see below (from a 520). I only needed to make one bracket for this to be a direct bolt-on without any modifications to the muffler or guard. 1) Piece of mild steel cut to length with three holes drilled. 2) Bracket blasted and painted with high temp black. I slipped sheetmetal fasteners on the 4 muffler tabs and used stainless 8/32 hardware. 3) I used the factory mounting location(s) for both the guard and the muffler. 4) Both are factory muffler tab locations. On the shield, the 8/32 screw fits thru the horizontal slot without modification. Sure, its not the “correct†mounting location for the shield, but personally, I think it’s fine. 5) Attaches the factory shield mounting point to the homemade bracket. On this screw I have a stainless lock washer and nut (vs. sheetmetal fastener). 6) Is there a length difference? Yes. It is approx. 1.5â€-2â€. Quite honestly, it doesn’t bother me one bit, but that’s me – and I’m pretty picky about this stuff. I’ve never claimed to be an expert about these later model WH’s, so if anything I’ve noted above seems to be in error, please feel free to comment. My hope is that this info helps others out in the future.
  22. SethL1984

    New to me 520H

    Ok Gents, I'll be picking up a rough 520H this saturday; I was told it ran only a matter of months ago until it "lost spark". Being my first Onan, I'd like to know what you onan guys think I should look for! Possibly even a checklist to run through once its home. I'm looking for any and everything! I'll be checking the system overall but I'm hoping for a few Onan tips. Let the instructions and tips fly guys!
  23. The 520 tractors were sent to dealers with an incorrect lamp in the tractor's tachometer. This lamp was of too high a wattage such that the plastic housing gets burned to the point it is ruined. Suggest owners of 520 tractors from years 1991 to 1995 read the service bulletin. Not specified in the bulletin is how to tell if your tractor has the incorrect lamp. Remove the lamp from it's holder and look for a number stamped on the brass base. It should read 53x in which case your tachometer is probably healthy. If it reads 1816 the tachometer will be burned by the extra heat from the lamp.
  24. lodestonefarm

    New (to me) 520

    Brought home my first Wheel Horse tractor yesterday. After a lot of input from forum members I was able to find a good deal on a nice 520 not too far from home. This tractor came up on Craigslist a couple weeks ago but when I called the fellow said it had been sold. I left him my number in case that sale didn't work out. Yesterday morning he called me out of the blue saying the other buyer fell through. So I went down to get this. 700 hours, the engine sounds really good. It starts right up, no smoke, but it does have some cosmetic issues- seat, no rubber mats on the foot beds, one of the bezels for the front lights is broken. Came with snow plow, chains, and very solid 60" mowing deck. I could barely fit that mowing deck into the back of my truck! Although I don't intend to do a restoration on this tractor- I bought it for working, I will be looking to go over it throughly, tighten things up, clean up what I can and maybe replace a few things here and there. I'll also be on the lookout for a snow thrower. I appreciate all your input the last few weeks helping me find something. And I'm sure I'll be back to the forum often for inspiration, tips, and help. Feels great to be part of the herd. Only down side is I just got her home and now I've got family obligations the rest of the week. No the Wheel Horse isn't considered part of the family- yet. All the best, Peter
  25. Can anyone give me a part number for the contracts used in the 1991 to 1997 520's relay connector block?
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