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Version TP2080E
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Husband wants some advice… lol. So we did an engine swap today on two suburbans because we could not get the one engine to spark all the time to get it running! The engine ran last year before parking for the winter sleep…. Points were changed out for new the engine was cleaned to make good contact has new spark plug new coil condenser we even switched out the fly wheel today thinking maybe the magnet was weak…. Advice??? It would where are you out yanking on the recoil five or so times and maybe only get the points to fire twice if you’re lucky.. checked the gap and pull again… same thing over and over! Thanks in advance!
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416-8....Super clean, plow,weights. Ags. Magnum. PICTURES POSTED
johnnymag3 posted a classfied in Wheel Horse Sold Archive
416-8 clean machine, one owner, M16 Kohler...............no smoke, knocks, etc. Only 771 Hours. 42" Rear Discharge deck NO RUST blades used 1 season 48" plow very nice condition, Wheel Horse weights, on tractor already AG Tires on rear,used one season, front tires great condition. Rears are filled with beet juice, done at a Dealer professionally, ....non toxic, non corrosive. Traction Galore !!! Machine is fully serviced, ready to work. NEEDS nothing....Look below for pictures JOHN 845 797 5716 cell -
Will the PTO work from the 312 Hydro with a 12 hp Kohler onto the 416-8 Onan? My PTO disc went today. Any help would be most appreciated.
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I was snowblowing the other day and got about half way through my driveway and all of a sudden my tractor died and I could not get it restarted. The first thing I noticed when it died was that the battery went down rapidly to about 7V but I think that had to do with my external alternator hooked up and not spinning but I could be wrong. I got the tractor back in the shed and could not get it turned over at all. The starter spins and everything seemed to move freely but I was not getting a spark. Changed the spark plug yesterday because it looked pretty gummed up and still nothing. This morning I was diving into the electrical system and got to the points where I was going to reset the timing and I realized that the points plunger does not move when I rotate the flywheel by hand. I guess at this point I don't entirely know what I have to do. Is it an easy/worth it fix or does the whole engine need to come apart? Can I change it to a different type of ignition system? Any other thoughts to try? Repower? Thanks, Bob
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Hi Guys, Looking for some advice, We rebuilt this k241 with a +.010 piston, Its had a rebore to +.010 but they did it off the manual specs and not the piston. Not ideal with an aftermarket piston but I wont get caught on this next time. Its developed this oscillating ting noise, its not the metal cover its there with it on and off, its 100% from the cam side, does it under low load / slow idle, Have setoscoped the motor with a screwdriver to the ear, and I cannot locate it. but its in the top. Have rechecked valvel clearances x2 already , 1st before initial run, and again day after, very minimal adjustment made after 1st run. Ting noise clearly heard in the video , appreciate any advice. Jeremy Nz https://www.dropbox.com/s/txf8fciaqi5rozg/2021-06-10%2009.08.11.mp4?dl=0
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So I have a parts 310-8 I’ve been trying to get running. My problem is the engine runs for 5 minutes and then starts sputtering and shooting exhaust back out the carb. Any clue what is happening? I’m pretty lost.
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@PeacemakerJack @WHX24 @Achto @953 nut @ebinmaine and anybody else who wants to take a stab at this as I am sure a Kohler is a Kohler no matter what color/brand tractor it sets in ... Back story I bought a group of IHCC just to get the 1 I wanted (126 3rd lowest production) then my son wanted a 1200 like my dad's so I let him have the best 1 of 2 to tinker and learn on, found the original engine had a broken rod so I found him another "running" at idle (I seen and heard in person before buying) K301 out of another CC and let him pull the blown engine and install the new 1 on his own, after installation he couldn't get it to run past idle missing and spattering plus carb leaking, smoking a little bit, then I bring back home and start working on it fixing other mechanical issues then jumped into the engine issues. As follows, wrong coil and a weak spark so all new components set points ran but would NOT really rev up smoked but not to terribly when reviving up but popped and sputtered, off came the head one small spot on the gasket near the exhaust valve looked to be leaking and upon further inspection the exhaust valve was pitted bad (burnt?) so I removed and tried to hand lap didn't work so had the blown engine on hand and stole the good exhaust valve and lapped it and the intake in decently, new head gasket after after cleaning and "planing" the head's gasket surface put it all back together, got it running and warmed up, retorque bolts button that up move onto the carb issues after 2 brand new "China" replicas and cleaned the original other than leaking fuel bowls no matter how I adjust the mixture screws it will idle damn near "perfectly" but getting it rev to WOT without missing popping and sputtering was damn near impossible, so here I am I got it to rev up to WOT without to much much fanfare but now it it will surge (governor moving back and forth ever so slightly unlike idle no movement at all) then will calm down then sputtering like starving for fuel (all 3 carbs, new tank petcock and fuel line , it is gravity fed) sitting still or driving around. After its warm it starts on the first bump of the key idles like new and revs up to WOT but misses/sputters/ surged there... So what else should I do, more/less point gap (now .020", can't pull the blower housing without removing engine "that ain't happening again such a PITA on these wide frame CC to find and paint the timing marks that I tried looking for through a 3/4" peep hole for an hour today)? I set checked and rechecked valve lash 3 times .009" In and .018" Ex... A couple videos to help as well. Sorry for the long post but I'm trying to give as much info the first time to help solve this debacle. And as most of you know I can build and tune a tight SBC this should be a piece of cake. 20201018_144036.mp4 20201129_150743.mp4
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I need some help. I picked up a 1968 electro 12 (1-7235) that I'm assuming is an early model built with a leftover 67 engine because the engine patina matches the tractor and it has an external generator/starter instead of the magneto. It's a k301S-4712B. I bought it knowing that the engine turns freely and that it had no spark. Being 52 years old I figured it deserved some fresh ignition parts so I replaced the coil, condenser, points (cleaned and set to .020), spark plug (.035), and plug wire, and I still cannot get a spark at the plug or through my spark plug tester. It turns over okay and I've got 12 volts to the positive terminal on the coil. It's been many years since last worked on this type of ignition system and I'm stumped. I would appreciate any input/suggestions you might have. If it were something newer I'd suspect a safety switch but I can't see that this has any.
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Ol’ Crusty the 1956 rj-35
chompinthebit posted a topic in Restorations, Modifications, & Customizations
Hi all, this is a early 1956 rj-35 I picked up and named Ol’ Crusty. I thought I’d share a picture timeline of things I’ve done on it since I’ve gotten it. The reason I say early 1956 is because it has a C channel frame like the 55’s with 55 style hub backing plates and some 1955 features but has a 1956 hood with small kill switch hole. the tractor has been cleaned and clear coated. Also wheels were stripped and painted original black. i believe this tractor was a local government owned tractor for mowing around a township building or something since it had many payers of the typical yellow paint you see on Govt owned equipment. reproduction aluminum steering wheel reproduction belt guard restored k90 added electric starter- 23 replies
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I found this K-90 at an auction and it turned out to be a wheel horse spec engine dating to 1956. I attached some pictures of it as I did the paint work. I didn’t start taking pictures until then unfortunately. I then put it in a 1956 rj-35 I have
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So my Kohler CH18S had a coil problem. One coil tested out bad. So I replaced both coils while I have things apart, ... and now I have a coil grounding issue. When the kill wire is connect to both coils, the engine will not start. If I remove both kill wires the engine will start, and will consequently stop when I reconnect the wires. If I remove one kill wire from either coil, the engine will start and run on one cylinder, until I reconnect the second kill wire and then the engine stops. If I disconnect the kill wire going to the wire harness, it makes no difference to the above. It appears that the kill wire connected in series from one coil to the other coil is grounding out from coil to coil. I have no idea why this might be. Unless I simply got the wrong coils. So I thought I would ask advice before I go rewiring myself a separate kill switch while I have everything opened up. Or I guess I could fall back to just choking it to turn off. Hmm....
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Seeking guidance for tuning a CH18S Kohler Command (1995), as replacement for a 16hp Onan (1990). This Kohler doesn't have the torque-grunt of this Onan, but it works, and is my available option. So, how best to tune the Kohler for this application? 1. I believe Onan and Kohler high RPM setting are both 3600? 2. Would it hurt the Kohler to boost that RPM to 3700-3800? Would it really help any? 3. Would it hurt the Hydro Transmission to go over 3600rpm? 4. I guess I could go find a slightly smaller Drive Pulley? And what would then happen to the Trans if I can't get the proper RPMs to the Trans? Now that I've figured out the mounting arrangements I can always swap in a bigger engine should I stumble upon a better option. Given the difficulties of getting the Onan rebuilt now-a-days, I'm looking to go for a more modern engine with easier to find parts/service. And I'm not inclined to do an engine rebuild myself. Thanks, - L. -
The trigger is bad. Replacement is costly. Looking at Brian Miller's replacement kit. Any comments.
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Hi, Im on my 4th Wheel Horse and got a great 12 hp Kohler with low hours. Its a 312 classic with the older style Kohler, not the OHV, probably right before the change. The throttle at higher speed eventually moves down and I have to re-adjust up to speed. Any suggestions on how to fix? Thanks!
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Haven’t been doing too much, been down sick and busy with the holidays. The other day I fired up Hank just because he’d been sitting and I like the smell of exhaust. After running for a bit I noticed my negative cable was loose, so I shut it down and went to tighten the nut, that’s when I noticed the oil that had percolated out of the top. (See pictures). Is this indicative of a problem already present that I just haven’t noticed, or a foreshadowing of one about to happen? Also, in another thread that I’d come across, someone had mentioned that it sounded like the OP was running their engine higher than they should. Where should I be putting the throttle to put around the yard, when pushing snow, etc? I’ve always left it at about 1/3rd, simply because I didn’t think it needed to sound like I was qualifying at the brick yard when I’m just going around the yard in 1. Rarely do I put it past 1/2. Am I unintentionally causing undue stress the the engine? Is this what could be causing the oil to come out of the bolts? Any and all guidance is appreciated!
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Hi guys need your help on where some parts go on an M-10s rebuild (out of a 310-8) of course the P.O. took the engine apart let it age for 5 yrs and then asked me to do the rebuild and then put it all back together. Need help with throttle linkage, PTO reconstruction and what the heck is the small pipe thing with a hole in the middle...… Thanks wheelers...… p.s. running great now Hone job, new piston, rings, head gasket and carb rebuild.
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I mow 7 lawns on the side 3 are neighbors. One in is a good size and flat. The only pita is a swingset. I like using the tractor on it for several reasons, it does a beautiful job, it needs to be bagged and with I only need to empty twice, my proline 36” I empty 7-8 and it’s a good excuse to run it for 90 minutes.
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John Deere STX38 Lawn Tractor Repair Series. No Crank, No Start
MS GENERAL REPAIR posted a topic in other brands
Part 1 of John Deere STX Lawn Tractor Repair Video Series. The Engine won't crank. -
@WHX14, @Achto, here's the offending culprits of Kohler K161 fuel tanks on the CC ORIGINAL, that keep breaking the solder around the fuel outlet bung, any tips on repair would be greatly appreciated, as well a couple pics of the original engines/tins and the tractor with few upgrades I'm planning with the repaint, besides the K181 with ring gear starter out of a Gravely, Jeff.
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Hi, I have a K321S, Spec # 60424, S/N 14169017. I was counting the cooling fins on the rear of the engine and noticed that it has 13 fins. I read somewhere that 13 fin blocks were more sought after thatn 12 fin blocks. If so, why? Also is it possible to have a 13 fin K321, or did someone possibly change the cover in the past? Also is it possble to tell is this engine has balance gears from the numbers? I have read that some engines did not have them. Thanks
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Went out in the middle of the week, temperatures in the teens, tried to start my C145 plow machine.......no go! Seems like the ACR is stuck, backfires through the carburetor. Using 10w-30 oil. The machine always started pretty good. I was thinking I may need a block heater. Anyone using the heaters? If so what type? wattage etc. I see pad style, drain plug styles. Joe
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I was cleaning some oil residue from an earlier dumb move - I try to keep things clean so any leaks that spring up show easily . I noticed along the top of the block towards the center from the right cylinder's valve cover a cast marking , cleaned it off and found this - The casting mark clearly shows K532 . Now , is this a case like the single cylinder blocks that were stamped "301" but you had to check internally whether it was a 10hp or 12hp engine ? K241 & K301 blocks are stamped the same and that is common knowledge . But , what about the K482/K532/K662 twin opposed cast iron engines , same deal ?? Any insight on the blocks or anyone know for sure ? Or - did someone swap out the original K482 from this '74 D180 to a K532 20hp from a donor ?? Some of the tins seem to be completely black to the bare metal , while others are clearly red underneath the black - so some painting has been done and this tractor it has at best a sketchy history . At one time it lived at the welding shop next to me to the West , or at least for a short time . The folks I got it from are about 40 miles away in a rural area and the gal that sold it had told me her father had gotten it from the town where I live - from the local welder . His son that now owns/runs the shop doesn't remember it but it may have belonged to his Dad who started the business - but he does say he knows his Dad never bought a new Wheel Horse , he'd only owned a Cub or two that he remembered . Anyway , hard telling on it's history and a lot of mods/repairs have been done in the machine's lifetime . I'm just curious if this is the original engine/block - the tins are marked as a K482 / spec 35222b as it should be to match the '74 model year in the published model year reference list . The model tag was long gone off the tractor when I got it , the year came from figuring out the sum of it's parts as to the model and such . Maybe that casting mark explains why this engine feels so strong , there is a noticeable difference between the 482 and 532 engines before from when we used them in other industrial equipment such as Ditch Witch , ect . The 20hp version just had a lot more torque and grunt compared to the 18hp . The K662 is insanely powerful and quite underrated - I ran one of those years ago on a compactor with a gear drive transport feature - that engine is a whole different animal compared to the 18 & 20 versions . Sarge
