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Found 12 results

  1. the jeep driver

    417A Clutch Seized When Mowing, How Do I Fix?

    My daughter was using the Wheel Horse rider to mow, I was push mowing. She drives over to me and says, "Dad, the blades aren't turning." I look at the mower, she's got the blades engaged (lever forward) but nothing is moving. I disengage the blades, and re-engage... nothing. No movement from the belt nor clutch. Then I notice the smell, and look closer, the belt is so hot is melting on the clutch. Or rather, the clutch is so hot it's melting the belt. Melting occurred. While the clutch is disengaged, I can spin the clutch freely; and whilst it's engaged, it won't move. So, what did I do now? Peter told me to lube that needle bearing, but I couldn't find a write up/how to anywhere, so I was putting it off until after the leaves were done falling in the Fall. I haven't taken anything off yet, other than the pins that hold the pinion and such, and the little brake pad. I see there are two snap rings, assume they come off, and then the assembly slides out as a whole? Some pictures of the clutch, can anyone tell if it's usable from them?
  2. Portuguese Farmer

    C-120 PTO Clutch Re-line / Re-build

    Hi Everyone. I recently rebuilt the pto clutch on my 1976 C-120 and figured id post some pictures and part numbers to save other time who are doing the same. I have the 6.75" OD clutch plate and didn't want to spend the money to get a new one from Toro so i ended up doing some research and re-lined it myself. I wasn't sure on the material so i took some measurements it looks like the originals are .125" thick stock. Clutch Material: McMaster #60895K11 http://www.mcmaster.com/#60895k11/=11rane8 It comes in a 7.5 x 7.5" square so you also have enough to re-line your brake like i did. I found the easiest way to cut it was to trace the OD of the old clutch plate and for the id i found a 4" angle grinder blade was the right diameter. I used a set of snips to trim the OD and a jigsaw to do the ID and seamed to work well. Extra material: Thin jigsaw blade i used: Final product: Now i also increased the contact area versus the original. The old one only contacted about an inch in width this one i had full contact on the bell of the pulley. My pulley was scored so i face it clean on the lather removing only the minimum need to get a full clean. YOu can chuck the narrow end of the bell on the pulley, just make sure the face is true (axial run-out <.005") I now have 2" of width on contact, it should work much better now. I prepped my old clutch backing plate by removing the old work clutch and the worn out broken rivets. Using a die grinder with an abrasive wheel works good. I then used a rougher disk to make little rough grooves in the face to make sure the clutch adheres better with the epoxy. Note the old contact area. Once the backing plate is cleaned use air and carb cleaner to thoroughly clean the new clutch material and the backing plate. Now i used Loctite 380 Instant Adhesive. We use this at work for similar materials on clutches and brakes. its oil heat and impact resistant and is literally the strongest fastest drying adhesive i've ever used it really works wonders. It cleans up with carb cleaner (even on your hands) t available the cheapest from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-135423-Toughened-Instant-Adhesive/dp/B000132VEE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459388480&sr=8-1&keywords=loctite+380 A zigzag pattern gives the best coverage to ensure it contacts and sticks evenly. Now make sure you just stick the clutch onto the backing plate and not the pulley I used the pulley as a plate to clamp the new lining onto the plate with the help of 3 clamps and left it there overnight. Just make sure the pulley is up so any drips don't stick the pulley to the other half. Now you can use those leftover pieces to also re-line the brake: same idea and process here... Since i had the whole thing apart anyways i decided to replace the bearings, they are a fortune from Toro and some aftermarket ones just didn't seem to be of high enough quality. I ended up finding a package deal on the originals on ebay so i figure did post the OEM bearing specs so you can find them yourselves locally or online its easier knowing the bearing manufacturers number than a Toro number. Ball Bearing (on the end taking the PTO thrust): Fafnir P204RR6 Alternative: http://www.amazon.com/Fafnir-P204RR6-Single-Ball-Bearing/dp/B00FAY909S Needle Bearing (on the inside of pulley holding the radial load): Torrington J-2420 Alternative: http://www.amazon.com/Koyo-Bearingd-8600rpm-Maximum-Rotational/dp/B007EDPF4C Grease Seal: CR 14810 (Chicago Rawhide) Alternative: http://www.amazon.com/SKF-14810-Small-Style-Diameter/dp/B00CLIVXNM/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1459389503&sr=8-3&keywords=CR+14810 Locally here in RI/MA i always use Eastern Bearings in Prov, RI to get all my bearings and seals they have reat pricing and can get you anything you need but you can also find them online at many places. Just be careful the letters on the ends usually mean different seal types so make sure you look into the whole part number. Hope this helps! Good Luck! if you have any questions ill try to help.
  3. Its been a while since I was able to work on my 416-8 rebuilt and right now the few brain cells are having a tough time. I am in the process of putting the wiring harness back in and the problem is the clutch safety switch. The arm with the idler wheel that engages the switch is over ridding the switch arm. I had tried adjusting the rod from the peddle to the arm but no matter my adjustment I still have the problem I am kinda at my wits end on this one. Any help will be greatly appreciated Bob
  4. The clutch spring on my 308-8 broke, so the tractor stopped dead. It was easy to see the broken red spring, after I removed the right rear wheel. I was able to order a replacement spring which I replaced today. Problem now there is too much slack on the drive belt. The tractor will move, but barely as if the drive belt is not tight and slipping. It seems that the clutch pulley isn't applying enough force against the belt. I have tried adjusting the clutch rod but that doesn't seem to make a difference. It only changes the position of the clutch pedal . I don't see any other adjustment option to put more pressure on the drive belt. The belt is old, but seems acceptable. Before the clutch spring, broke, the tractor would jump out in any gear. No slippage.
  5. I actually work at a lawn and garden dealership. A friend of mine is trying to restore his GT-14 and he needs a clutch. Toro's IPL are incomplete but I managed to find the pdf for the parts list elsewhere. I came up with a number of 9656 for the electric clutch which subbed to a 101473; both of which are discontinued. So here is my question... Does someone out there have the manufacturers number for that clutch. I have access to about 30 different manufacturers so i could probably find a clutch that would work but most of them don't publish shaft sizes in an intelligible format. With the manufacturer's number I could probably easily substitute it. Any help is greatly appreciated - this sight has helped me in the past, personally and professionally so I know if anybody can help it will be you guys. Thanks, Ael
  6. I seem to be missing the clutch shaft, the bearing is bad and the piece to the left. Does the piece to the left go with this assembly? Looks like there is a ring around it for a snap ring. the piece is a 14-54 bearing race and if I put it in the pulley assembly then I can not put the pulley assembly on the PTO shaft. Maybe it is to reduce for a smaller shaft? The bearing inside must be a press fit? I have not had time yet to remove the snap ring. This would be the bearing by the snap ring you can see, the needle bearings look okay. I suppose I could try and get a bearing from the bearing store but then I still need the clutch shaft to match up the size Looks like the clutch shaft goes inside the bearing and there is a snap ring to hold it in place from a diagram IC. Would the pulley from a commander 800 be the same, I c one for sale. Has the manual clutch shaft on it. Thanks Tim O
  7. snrohio2288

    208-4 Clutch Spring Hole

    Hi Guys, new here. About a year ago I bought a house which came with a nice 208-4. The tractor was abandoned by the owners of the house in the shed as it "wouldn't start anymore". Turns out mice had made a nest in the engine shroud and chewed through the spark plug wire. A new coil and battery later and she has been serving me well for a year. The other day though, after stepping on the clutch and letting go, the tractor didn't move anymore. Came to find out my clutch spring had broke (found part of it in the yard). I ordered a new OEM spring and it arrived. The problem I am having is I can't seem to find where the other end of the spring attaches to the frame. I have a diagram I found online but it simply says "hole in frame opening". Does anyone know or have a similar model they can look at and guide me where this spring goes? See attached diagram. Thanks
  8. bizzo15

    PTO clutch temperature

    Hey guys, so the other day I got one of those infrared "contactless" thermometer the other day as an amazon deal of the day. Tonight I mowed my lawn and when I pulled the tractor back in the garage I decided to shoot the thermometer at various parts of the tractor and I noticed the PTO clutch seemed to be much hotter than normal. It read as high as 190F, that seems a little hot to me. Is it normal for them to get this hot or am I looking at a failure of the clutch?
  9. westgrey


    Does anyone have a pic or drawing of the back of clutch plate 102908. The clutch self destructed before I bought the tractor and I suspect this part was damaged but the manual only shows front view. Thanks
  10. powerrepair2016

    Parts question

    Hello, first off please forgive me if I have made an error in going about this on your forum. I have several wheel horse parts that are brand new original oem replacement parts for a 1974 c120 (I think) I don't know anything about them. I was curious what there value is, i cant find them anywhere and when i do it just says discontinued. Here are the parts I'm currently curious about Tire rod assembly - part # 111412 Assembly clutch bar part # 103227 Taillight base part # 105202 I also have a part that just has a hand written tag on it, says "deck list for 48" 42" wheel horse" it appears to be a part that holds the blade deck up. Any input is appreciated.
  11. Well as I fix one thing on my good ol' 1973 auto 18, the next weakest link needs attention. The tractor an ARK 550 was working like a charm as I moved chords of wood from on old oak that had fallen. Then all of a sudden when I engaged the clutch lever on the left side of the tractor, to engage the hydro pump powering the ARK 550. The FEL stays down. No motion at all. It appears that the pulley that is some type of clutch directly off of the front of the engine doesn't engage and drive the belt anymore. I'm not sure exactly what the protocol is. So before I make things worse wanted some feedback on someone who went down that road. I took a few pics of the problem area. What do I take apart and where do I start? Thank you again for your guidance and wisdom! Jack
  12. Hello, I don't know if this is the correct forum but I am having trouble with the pto on a b-165. It won't disengage. I have adjusted it according to the manual with no luck. There appears to be a small oil hole on the outside and squirting oil in that helped for a while. This is the only vertical shaft machine I have so I am not really familiar with them. I can tap the lower part of the pulley with a brass hammer and it will release but once I engage it, it is stuck until I do that again. I would not mind taking it apart but I would be working on my back underneath and so would like to know anything I can about them before I try that. Would appreciate anything you can tell me.
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