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Found 54 results

  1. 416-8 clean machine, one owner, M16 Kohler...............no smoke, knocks, etc. Only 771 Hours. 42" Rear Discharge deck NO RUST blades used 1 season 48" plow very nice condition, Wheel Horse weights, on tractor already AG Tires on rear,used one season, front tires great condition. Rears are filled with beet juice, done at a Dealer professionally, ....non toxic, non corrosive. Traction Galore !!! Machine is fully serviced, ready to work. NEEDS nothing....Look below for pictures JOHN 845 797 5716 cell
  2. mrodgers

    Kohler K341

    Looking for a Kohler K341 engine for my C-160.
  3. woodbird007

    Oil drain

    Need help adding oil drain piping to Koehler K241 with 1/2” drain plug
  4. Rob R

    Kohler 321S 14HP Engine

    Totally rebuilt Kohler 321S 14HP new STANDARD Piston, Rings, Carburetor and Starter, cylinder honed (was in Kohler specs) Starts and runs better then new. I am firm on the price if you want it for a lower price I can take of the new starter and carb. I have a video of this puppy running just send me your email and I will forward to you. This was for a GT14 but I ended up not needing it. This engine came off a Ford Tractor and it has the deep sump with the bottom hump, it does have threaded holes for mounting from the bottom but you would probably need to notch the frame a bit. This engine runs like a Swiss watch and absolutely NO smoke. Thanks for looking - Rob
  5. Posting for my Father - If I still lived in Bucks I would clean her up and get her started. I love that there is a club of enthusiasts for Wheel Horse tractors! Make us a reasonable offer and you can come and get it! (We are near Peddlers Village) Has not been turned on in years but confident it runs if you take the proper steps.
  6. Will the PTO work from the 312 Hydro with a 12 hp Kohler onto the 416-8 Onan? My PTO disc went today. Any help would be most appreciated.
  7. mmmmmdonuts

    K301 Points Push Rod Not Moving

    I was snowblowing the other day and got about half way through my driveway and all of a sudden my tractor died and I could not get it restarted. The first thing I noticed when it died was that the battery went down rapidly to about 7V but I think that had to do with my external alternator hooked up and not spinning but I could be wrong. I got the tractor back in the shed and could not get it turned over at all. The starter spins and everything seemed to move freely but I was not getting a spark. Changed the spark plug yesterday because it looked pretty gummed up and still nothing. This morning I was diving into the electrical system and got to the points where I was going to reset the timing and I realized that the points plunger does not move when I rotate the flywheel by hand. I guess at this point I don't entirely know what I have to do. Is it an easy/worth it fix or does the whole engine need to come apart? Can I change it to a different type of ignition system? Any other thoughts to try? Repower? Thanks, Bob
  8. JeremyNzl

    Kohler diy rebuilt K241 ticking

    Hi Guys, Looking for some advice, We rebuilt this k241 with a +.010 piston, Its had a rebore to +.010 but they did it off the manual specs and not the piston. Not ideal with an aftermarket piston but I wont get caught on this next time. Its developed this oscillating ting noise, its not the metal cover its there with it on and off, its 100% from the cam side, does it under low load / slow idle, Have setoscoped the motor with a screwdriver to the ear, and I cannot locate it. but its in the top. Have rechecked valvel clearances x2 already , 1st before initial run, and again day after, very minimal adjustment made after 1st run. Ting noise clearly heard in the video , appreciate any advice. Jeremy Nz https://www.dropbox.com/s/txf8fciaqi5rozg/2021-06-10%2009.08.11.mp4?dl=0
  9. Ifixoldjunk

    Kohler k241 problems

    So I have a parts 310-8 I’ve been trying to get running. My problem is the engine runs for 5 minutes and then starts sputtering and shooting exhaust back out the carb. Any clue what is happening? I’m pretty lost.
  10. Free Shipping! 616 total OEM Kohler engines micro fiche. Service manuals, service bulletins, parts lists, price lists, Magnums, Commands, K series. The site says I dont have space to upload pics. Text me and I can send plenty 8607296805. Thanks, Matt
  11. WVHillbilly520H

    Cub Cadets 1200

    @PeacemakerJack @WHX24 @Achto @953 nut @ebinmaine and anybody else who wants to take a stab at this as I am sure a Kohler is a Kohler no matter what color/brand tractor it sets in ... Back story I bought a group of IHCC just to get the 1 I wanted (126 3rd lowest production) then my son wanted a 1200 like my dad's so I let him have the best 1 of 2 to tinker and learn on, found the original engine had a broken rod so I found him another "running" at idle (I seen and heard in person before buying) K301 out of another CC and let him pull the blown engine and install the new 1 on his own, after installation he couldn't get it to run past idle missing and spattering plus carb leaking, smoking a little bit, then I bring back home and start working on it fixing other mechanical issues then jumped into the engine issues. As follows, wrong coil and a weak spark so all new components set points ran but would NOT really rev up smoked but not to terribly when reviving up but popped and sputtered, off came the head one small spot on the gasket near the exhaust valve looked to be leaking and upon further inspection the exhaust valve was pitted bad (burnt?) so I removed and tried to hand lap didn't work so had the blown engine on hand and stole the good exhaust valve and lapped it and the intake in decently, new head gasket after after cleaning and "planing" the head's gasket surface put it all back together, got it running and warmed up, retorque bolts button that up move onto the carb issues after 2 brand new "China" replicas and cleaned the original other than leaking fuel bowls no matter how I adjust the mixture screws it will idle damn near "perfectly" but getting it rev to WOT without missing popping and sputtering was damn near impossible, so here I am I got it to rev up to WOT without to much much fanfare but now it it will surge (governor moving back and forth ever so slightly unlike idle no movement at all) then will calm down then sputtering like starving for fuel (all 3 carbs, new tank petcock and fuel line , it is gravity fed) sitting still or driving around. After its warm it starts on the first bump of the key idles like new and revs up to WOT but misses/sputters/ surged there... So what else should I do, more/less point gap (now .020", can't pull the blower housing without removing engine "that ain't happening again such a PITA on these wide frame CC to find and paint the timing marks that I tried looking for through a 3/4" peep hole for an hour today)? I set checked and rechecked valve lash 3 times .009" In and .018" Ex... A couple videos to help as well. Sorry for the long post but I'm trying to give as much info the first time to help solve this debacle. And as most of you know I can build and tune a tight SBC this should be a piece of cake. 20201018_144036.mp4 20201129_150743.mp4
  12. Slightly Discombobulated

    68 Electro no spark

    I need some help. I picked up a 1968 electro 12 (1-7235) that I'm assuming is an early model built with a leftover 67 engine because the engine patina matches the tractor and it has an external generator/starter instead of the magneto. It's a k301S-4712B. I bought it knowing that the engine turns freely and that it had no spark. Being 52 years old I figured it deserved some fresh ignition parts so I replaced the coil, condenser, points (cleaned and set to .020), spark plug (.035), and plug wire, and I still cannot get a spark at the plug or through my spark plug tester. It turns over okay and I've got 12 volts to the positive terminal on the coil. It's been many years since last worked on this type of ignition system and I'm stumped. I would appreciate any input/suggestions you might have. If it were something newer I'd suspect a safety switch but I can't see that this has any.
  13. Hi all, this is a early 1956 rj-35 I picked up and named Ol’ Crusty. I thought I’d share a picture timeline of things I’ve done on it since I’ve gotten it. The reason I say early 1956 is because it has a C channel frame like the 55’s with 55 style hub backing plates and some 1955 features but has a 1956 hood with small kill switch hole. the tractor has been cleaned and clear coated. Also wheels were stripped and painted original black. i believe this tractor was a local government owned tractor for mowing around a township building or something since it had many payers of the typical yellow paint you see on Govt owned equipment. reproduction aluminum steering wheel reproduction belt guard restored k90 added electric starter
  14. chompinthebit

    Restored K-90

    I found this K-90 at an auction and it turned out to be a wheel horse spec engine dating to 1956. I attached some pictures of it as I did the paint work. I didn’t start taking pictures until then unfortunately. I then put it in a 1956 rj-35 I have
  15. Mithral

    Coils grounding each other out

    So my Kohler CH18S had a coil problem. One coil tested out bad. So I replaced both coils while I have things apart, ... and now I have a coil grounding issue. When the kill wire is connect to both coils, the engine will not start. If I remove both kill wires the engine will start, and will consequently stop when I reconnect the wires. If I remove one kill wire from either coil, the engine will start and run on one cylinder, until I reconnect the second kill wire and then the engine stops. If I disconnect the kill wire going to the wire harness, it makes no difference to the above. It appears that the kill wire connected in series from one coil to the other coil is grounding out from coil to coil. I have no idea why this might be. Unless I simply got the wrong coils. So I thought I would ask advice before I go rewiring myself a separate kill switch while I have everything opened up. Or I guess I could fall back to just choking it to turn off. Hmm....
  16. Seeking guidance for tuning a CH18S Kohler Command (1995), as replacement for a 16hp Onan (1990). This Kohler doesn't have the torque-grunt of this Onan, but it works, and is my available option. So, how best to tune the Kohler for this application? 1. I believe Onan and Kohler high RPM setting are both 3600? 2. Would it hurt the Kohler to boost that RPM to 3700-3800? Would it really help any? 3. Would it hurt the Hydro Transmission to go over 3600rpm? 4. I guess I could go find a slightly smaller Drive Pulley? And what would then happen to the Trans if I can't get the proper RPMs to the Trans? Now that I've figured out the mounting arrangements I can always swap in a bigger engine should I stumble upon a better option. Given the difficulties of getting the Onan rebuilt now-a-days, I'm looking to go for a more modern engine with easier to find parts/service. And I'm not inclined to do an engine rebuild myself. Thanks, - L.
  17. krohs nest

    gt-14 No spark

    The trigger is bad. Replacement is costly. Looking at Brian Miller's replacement kit. Any comments.
  18. RT WH416H

    Kohler 12 throttle moving

    Hi, Im on my 4th Wheel Horse and got a great 12 hp Kohler with low hours. Its a 312 classic with the older style Kohler, not the OHV, probably right before the change. The throttle at higher speed eventually moves down and I have to re-adjust up to speed. Any suggestions on how to fix? Thanks!
  19. LengerichKA88

    A couple K181 questions.

    Haven’t been doing too much, been down sick and busy with the holidays. The other day I fired up Hank just because he’d been sitting and I like the smell of exhaust. After running for a bit I noticed my negative cable was loose, so I shut it down and went to tighten the nut, that’s when I noticed the oil that had percolated out of the top. (See pictures). Is this indicative of a problem already present that I just haven’t noticed, or a foreshadowing of one about to happen? Also, in another thread that I’d come across, someone had mentioned that it sounded like the OP was running their engine higher than they should. Where should I be putting the throttle to put around the yard, when pushing snow, etc? I’ve always left it at about 1/3rd, simply because I didn’t think it needed to sound like I was qualifying at the brick yard when I’m just going around the yard in 1. Rarely do I put it past 1/2. Am I unintentionally causing undue stress the the engine? Is this what could be causing the oil to come out of the bolts? Any and all guidance is appreciated!
  20. Rob R

    Kohler M10 Rebuild

    Hi guys need your help on where some parts go on an M-10s rebuild (out of a 310-8) of course the P.O. took the engine apart let it age for 5 yrs and then asked me to do the rebuild and then put it all back together. Need help with throttle linkage, PTO reconstruction and what the heck is the small pipe thing with a hole in the middle...… Thanks wheelers...… p.s. running great now Hone job, new piston, rings, head gasket and carb rebuild.
  21. Red144runner

    3-12

    I mow 7 lawns on the side 3 are neighbors. One in is a good size and flat. The only pita is a swingset. I like using the tractor on it for several reasons, it does a beautiful job, it needs to be bagged and with I only need to empty twice, my proline 36” I empty 7-8 and it’s a good excuse to run it for 90 minutes.
  22. Part 1 of John Deere STX Lawn Tractor Repair Video Series. The Engine won't crank.
  23. WVHillbilly520H

    Cub Cadet Original

    @WHX14, @Achto, here's the offending culprits of Kohler K161 fuel tanks on the CC ORIGINAL, that keep breaking the solder around the fuel outlet bung, any tips on repair would be greatly appreciated, as well a couple pics of the original engines/tins and the tractor with few upgrades I'm planning with the repaint, besides the K181 with ring gear starter out of a Gravely, Jeff.
  24. Bill D

    13 Fin K321S?

    Hi, I have a K321S, Spec # 60424, S/N 14169017. I was counting the cooling fins on the rear of the engine and noticed that it has 13 fins. I read somewhere that 13 fin blocks were more sought after thatn 12 fin blocks. If so, why? Also is it possible to have a 13 fin K321, or did someone possibly change the cover in the past? Also is it possble to tell is this engine has balance gears from the numbers? I have read that some engines did not have them. Thanks
  25. Went out in the middle of the week, temperatures in the teens, tried to start my C145 plow machine.......no go! Seems like the ACR is stuck, backfires through the carburetor. Using 10w-30 oil. The machine always started pretty good. I was thinking I may need a block heater. Anyone using the heaters? If so what type? wattage etc. I see pad style, drain plug styles. Joe
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