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Found 8 results

  1. A HUGE thank you to Tony @Docwheelhorse for settin' me up here. The generosity of some of our members never ceases to amaze me. This here is another 1974 C160, but with the rare Tecumseh HH/OH160 OHV engine. Made one year only. It's rough. Very much in need of a full disassembly and restoration. When it came here it was missing one tie rod and the other was broken off one end. Today I popped used tie rods on and Trina used her 867 to drag it from the drive to the shed. The engine wouldn't move. Tin was near chock full of skeletal mouseseses and their house. Cleaned that out and the engine spins freely now. So progress has been made. It'll be a good long while before we get to this one but I just couldn't turn it down considering the rarity.
  2. Hello, this is my first transmission rebuild. It was off a 1972 Raider 12 so I thought it had a limited slip differential and took it apart to see why both wheels were not grabbing. It turns out that it has the 8 pinion differential. There is a damaged bearing, I destroyed the plug for the detent passage and some of the gears have wear but it doesn't look bad to me. My questions are: 1 - If the other bearings are complete with no damage do I leave them or is there a way to test the amount of wear to indicate whether they should be replaced or not? 2 - Where do I get a new 1533 bearing, plug for detent hole, oil seals and gasket and how do I remove the bearing? 3 - The gear pictured was the gear with the most wear. Is that perfectly fine to use? 4 - I'm guessing that it is a 5091 transmission or a 5073 with the differential replaced. Is there a way to tell what it is for ordering proper parts or are parts going to be the same? Thanks, Tim
  3. I have a 1976 C-120, 8 speed, that has had a bad rear axle key way for about 35 years.The plastic steel we put in to keep things together finally gave up the ghost last year. I tried some welding but that hasn't held up either. My question is will the rear axles from a C-81 8 speed fit in my transmission? According to the parts lists I found on this site, both trans have 1 1/8" axles and 8 pinion diffs, but the axle part numbers are different. Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm brand new to the site and think its great!
  4. Red144runner

    3-12

    I mow 7 lawns on the side 3 are neighbors. One in is a good size and flat. The only pita is a swingset. I like using the tractor on it for several reasons, it does a beautiful job, it needs to be bagged and with I only need to empty twice, my proline 36” I empty 7-8 and it’s a good excuse to run it for 90 minutes.
  5. For those who have repaired 8 speed transmissions what items are the source of failure? Forks? Cluster gear? Bearing? Water is obviously enemy #1 Along with no oil as #2
  6. Hey guys, I've started the restoration of my 1968 Raider 10. I originally found that they didn't make a Raider 10 in 1968 but through discussion with the experts here, we determined that my tractor was a 1968 that was badged a Raider 10 with the 10 HP Tecumseh. Here's the starting point picture. It was in better shape a few years ago but it was a slight casualty to hurricane Sandy. Nothing is rusted through, thankfully. It's unfortunate that it happened and I never expected it to get wet where it was. We were at least a 1/4 mile from the water -- probably more -- but, I came to work (where it was stored) the following day and we had a garbage dumpster from the business across the street and a boat dock in out parking lot...It was insane and very unexpected. Anyway, I've disassembled a bunch of it and will e-tank the crap out of everything.
  7. So, I got the transmission gutted. This is my first gear box of any kind that I have cracked open. So my rookie eyes tell me that any rust of any sort in there probably isn't good? I have access to a parts washer at work. I was going to run the transmission casings through once or twice. My main question is, should I press all the bearings out before I run it through? Can I trust a good thorough drying and oiling afterward to keep the needle bearings intact? I'll also have to scrape it out by hand I suppose. Have any of you seen anything like this? worse? Am I over reacting and I should just throw 'er back together? See that attached photos for a bit more clarity. Second thing, I don't have the detent assembly out yet so my shift fork rails are still installed. I just popped out the roll pins to get the forks and their gears out. I posted a picture of the 1/4" press in cap on the outside face of the transmission. How the devil do you get that thing out? I imagine you guys have some creative ways to do it? I'll PM Mike in OH as well. Thanks for any help!
  8. I've had this B for quite a few years now, and it's been my constant go to, and ALWAYS starts and is able to do everything I need it to, even when ... it probably shouldn't - haha With that being said, it's time that my favorite gets some TLC. It's going to be slow going ... as I'm still using it as my go to tractor. Sheet metal first - then I'll do the frame and other bits while the motor is at the machine shop. Will be using Base/Clear urethane and High build primer (its much more forgiving on the small imperfections when I block it out to be sure its straight) Pictures! Started with the seat pan ... It is in great shape just the paint is WAY tired so I'm just hitting it with some 60 grit paper on the DA. Geno media blasted this hood for me a week ago, Sandblasting profiles the metal so I had to run the DA over it too, but it's come out alright ... there are quite a few dents that need to be fixed but nothing 'major' - unlike the original hood. It's just in a self etching primer to allow me to bodywork it. Stay Tuned for more!
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