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Would someone be able to measure the length of or even take a picture of the last couple inches of 416-8 uni-drive transmission dipstick? I jacked and drained tranny, just a little more than 3 qts, flushed with diesel, and serviced with 2 qts of Lucas 80W-90. Nothing on the stick. The stick ends right after the PN 106447, may be broken off perfectly smooth, and has always been that way since I bought 5-6 years ago. I noticed it but didn't think much about it due to an inch of fluid being on the stick when you checked the level, the extra 1+ qt of oil. Assumed the top of PN on stick must be full line. The oil I drained looked fine, just a little fine metal flake from the oops's over the years from accidental grind and go's (or remains of the missing dipstick?). No appearance of water contamination. I changed the fluid due to a low whine I can't say I noticed over the years or at least it sounds a little louder if was present before. No change in whine after oil change either. Just over 450hrs on it so maybe just "broken-in" whine? Bought with 225 hrs on it from a local old timer Cub Cadet restorer who had changed all the fluids before selling it for a friend. Just to note, the whine has a bit of a hydro tranny noise to it. The higher the range, gear, and speed the louder it is, no whine in neutral. Not too concerned about the whine, just have nothing to compare to. The other 416 is an H to push around the two-stage blower, which I bought together this March. Can't say I'm a huge fan of the hydro compared to the -8 though. Love the -8, hydro is a bit sketchy to operate and drinks gas. May need to buy the pedal control kit I see posted here. Thanks up front for any help guys. Maybe my first post but you all have already helped me quite a bit with your experience and knowledge reading the old posts over the years. Great site.
So, I got the transmission gutted. This is my first gear box of any kind that I have cracked open. So my rookie eyes tell me that any rust of any sort in there probably isn't good? I have access to a parts washer at work. I was going to run the transmission casings through once or twice. My main question is, should I press all the bearings out before I run it through? Can I trust a good thorough drying and oiling afterward to keep the needle bearings intact? I'll also have to scrape it out by hand I suppose. Have any of you seen anything like this? worse? Am I over reacting and I should just throw 'er back together? See that attached photos for a bit more clarity. Second thing, I don't have the detent assembly out yet so my shift fork rails are still installed. I just popped out the roll pins to get the forks and their gears out. I posted a picture of the 1/4" press in cap on the outside face of the transmission. How the devil do you get that thing out? I imagine you guys have some creative ways to do it? I'll PM Mike in OH as well. Thanks for any help!
This winter while plowing my C125 stop like something in the transmission was binding. It happened 3 times but otherwise worked just fine. So today I thought I'ld better check it out. After removing the right case half I got to look inside. A BOLT? How did a bolt get in there? All 4 bolts were in the diff. Well, 3Â½ bolts! One diff bolt is broken and the other 3 are loose. And the diff housing is chipped. There is a little more damage done ... this gear has chipped teeth. Might have been where the bolt got to it. And this long gear has 3 worn teeth! Why? And how did this spacer loose a piece? Well, now it's time to hunt for a few parts. A friend has a parts transmission that might help me out.