By the jeep driver
My daughter was using the Wheel Horse rider to mow, I was push mowing. She drives over to me and says, "Dad, the blades aren't turning." I look at the mower, she's got the blades engaged (lever forward) but nothing is moving. I disengage the blades, and re-engage... nothing. No movement from the belt nor clutch. Then I notice the smell, and look closer, the belt is so hot is melting on the clutch. Or rather, the clutch is so hot it's melting the belt. Melting occurred.
While the clutch is disengaged, I can spin the clutch freely; and whilst it's engaged, it won't move.
So, what did I do now? Peter told me to lube that needle bearing, but I couldn't find a write up/how to anywhere, so I was putting it off until after the leaves were done falling in the Fall. I haven't taken anything off yet, other than the pins that hold the pinion and such, and the little brake pad. I see there are two snap rings, assume they come off, and then the assembly slides out as a whole?
Some pictures of the clutch, can anyone tell if it's usable from them?
By John A
The clutch spring on my 308-8 broke, so the tractor stopped dead. It was easy to see the broken red spring, after I removed the right rear wheel. I was able to order a replacement spring which I replaced today. Problem now there is too much slack on the drive belt. The tractor will move, but barely as if the drive belt is not tight and slipping. It seems that the clutch pulley isn't applying enough force against the belt. I have tried adjusting the clutch rod but that doesn't seem to make a difference. It only changes the position of the clutch pedal . I don't see any other adjustment option to put more pressure on the drive belt. The belt is old, but seems acceptable. Before the clutch spring, broke, the tractor would jump out in any gear. No slippage.
I actually work at a lawn and garden dealership. A friend of mine is trying to restore his GT-14 and he needs a clutch. Toro's IPL are incomplete but I managed to find the pdf for the parts list elsewhere. I came up with a number of 9656 for the electric clutch which subbed to a 101473; both of which are discontinued. So here is my question... Does someone out there have the manufacturers number for that clutch. I have access to about 30 different manufacturers so i could probably find a clutch that would work but most of them don't publish shaft sizes in an intelligible format. With the manufacturer's number I could probably easily substitute it.
Any help is greatly appreciated - this sight has helped me in the past, personally and professionally so I know if anybody can help it will be you guys.
I seem to be missing the clutch shaft, the bearing is bad and the piece to the left. Does the piece to the left go with this assembly? Looks like there is a ring around it for a snap ring. the piece is a 14-54 bearing race and if I put it in the pulley assembly then I can not put the pulley assembly on the PTO shaft. Maybe it is to reduce for a smaller shaft?
The bearing inside must be a press fit? I have not had time yet to remove the snap ring. This would be the bearing by the snap ring you can see, the needle bearings look okay.
I suppose I could try and get a bearing from the bearing store but then I still need the clutch shaft to match up the size Looks like the clutch shaft goes inside the bearing and there is a snap ring to hold it in place from a diagram IC.
Would the pulley from a commander 800 be the same, I c one for sale. Has the manual clutch shaft on it.
Thanks Tim O
okay guys what am I missing here on the left left side control peddle arm that you work with your left foot to stop and go. The pedal just stays down and no way of stopping by just lifting your foot so the peddle can raise up and down