By the jeep driver
My daughter was using the Wheel Horse rider to mow, I was push mowing. She drives over to me and says, "Dad, the blades aren't turning." I look at the mower, she's got the blades engaged (lever forward) but nothing is moving. I disengage the blades, and re-engage... nothing. No movement from the belt nor clutch. Then I notice the smell, and look closer, the belt is so hot is melting on the clutch. Or rather, the clutch is so hot it's melting the belt. Melting occurred.
While the clutch is disengaged, I can spin the clutch freely; and whilst it's engaged, it won't move.
So, what did I do now? Peter told me to lube that needle bearing, but I couldn't find a write up/how to anywhere, so I was putting it off until after the leaves were done falling in the Fall. I haven't taken anything off yet, other than the pins that hold the pinion and such, and the little brake pad. I see there are two snap rings, assume they come off, and then the assembly slides out as a whole?
Some pictures of the clutch, can anyone tell if it's usable from them?
By RJ Hamner
Its been a while since I was able to work on my 416-8 rebuilt and right now the few brain cells are having a tough time.
I am in the process of putting the wiring harness back in and the problem is the clutch safety switch.
The arm with the idler wheel that engages the switch is over ridding the switch arm.
I had tried adjusting the rod from the peddle to the arm but no matter my adjustment I still have the problem
I am kinda at my wits end on this one.
Any help will be greatly appreciated
By John A
The clutch spring on my 308-8 broke, so the tractor stopped dead. It was easy to see the broken red spring, after I removed the right rear wheel. I was able to order a replacement spring which I replaced today. Problem now there is too much slack on the drive belt. The tractor will move, but barely as if the drive belt is not tight and slipping. It seems that the clutch pulley isn't applying enough force against the belt. I have tried adjusting the clutch rod but that doesn't seem to make a difference. It only changes the position of the clutch pedal . I don't see any other adjustment option to put more pressure on the drive belt. The belt is old, but seems acceptable. Before the clutch spring, broke, the tractor would jump out in any gear. No slippage.
I actually work at a lawn and garden dealership. A friend of mine is trying to restore his GT-14 and he needs a clutch. Toro's IPL are incomplete but I managed to find the pdf for the parts list elsewhere. I came up with a number of 9656 for the electric clutch which subbed to a 101473; both of which are discontinued. So here is my question... Does someone out there have the manufacturers number for that clutch. I have access to about 30 different manufacturers so i could probably find a clutch that would work but most of them don't publish shaft sizes in an intelligible format. With the manufacturer's number I could probably easily substitute it.
Any help is greatly appreciated - this sight has helped me in the past, personally and professionally so I know if anybody can help it will be you guys.
Hi Guys, new here. About a year ago I bought a house which came with a nice 208-4. The tractor was abandoned by the owners of the house in the shed as it "wouldn't start anymore".
Turns out mice had made a nest in the engine shroud and chewed through the spark plug wire. A new coil and battery later and she has been serving me well for a year.
The other day though, after stepping on the clutch and letting go, the tractor didn't move anymore. Came to find out my clutch spring had broke (found part of it in the yard).
I ordered a new OEM spring and it arrived. The problem I am having is I can't seem to find where the other end of the spring attaches to the frame.
I have a diagram I found online but it simply says "hole in frame opening".
Does anyone know or have a similar model they can look at and guide me where this spring goes?
See attached diagram.