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Found 13 results

  1. I have a few basic electrical system diagrams that are helpful in understanding how the wiring system works. They are not specific to any particular tractor and do not include safety switches. All use the 5 post ignition switches 103-991 for Magneto and 103-990 for Battery Ignition. I failed to include fuses in the Starter Generator drawing, this is an over-site and I would encourage fuses be used as shown in the other two drawings. Hope this is helpful. Magneto Ignition system with electric start and solenoid. Battery powered ignition system with points, condenser, solenoid and electric start. Battery powered ignition with solenoid, points, condenser, Starter Generator and a mechanical voltage regulator. We have uncovered a shortcoming in the factory wiring diagrams for S/G battery ignition systems with a four terminal voltage regulator. The wire from the regulator "Gen" terminal to the S/G "A" terminal was omitted. This drawing should clear that up.
  2. Canaaner

    416 xt

    Ran fine all summer, no blows the dash fuse (10 A) once it's started. Will run momentarily then, fuse blows and nothing. Replaced fuse, ran for a minute then fuse blew again. Any help?
  3. Sirtowsalot

    418-A Won't shutoff

    Howdy y'all! I'm having some trouble with my 418-A. I think it is ignition related, but I'm not completely sure. It starts and runs perfectly fine, but when I go to turn it off, it doesn't work. I can just turn the key into the 'off' position and take the key out while the tractor is still running and it will continue to run as if I hadn't turned the key off. I'm trying to keep this tractor as original as possible, so I don't really want to buy a new ignition. Any help is appreciated. Thanks! *EDIT* Wheel Horse 418-A Kohler Engine 18 HP Model No. M18QS Spec. No. 24510 Serial No. 1619706606
  4. RJ Hamner

    Kohler K301 Has me stumped

    Let me first say that it ran when I brought it home. Drove it around the guys yard, tried out the mower, drove it onto the trailer and drove it off the trailer and into the garage. I've done a "ground up" restore on the tractor (70 Charger 12). Swapped out the breakerless for a battery ignition and swapped out the 10 amp for a 15 amp stator, flywheel and regulator. Pulled the head, looked pretty good, new head gasket and head bolts.new fuel pump, fuel lines,new switches and wiring, new aftermarket carb, new coil, coil wire, new points, new throttle and choke cables. Static timed (twice just to make sure) Have tried Autolite 216's and the hotter 437's. changed the condenser to the high dollar Kohler one. It will idle but when I give it some throttle it stumbles or will rev up a little then quits. I've gone thru the "trouble shooting " steps multiple time and to no avail Anyone got any ideas?? I am willing to try most anything at this point Bob
  5. WingfieldWheelHorse

    312-8 Ignition Wiring - Amateur Fix

    Howdy Folks, I am hoping one of you knowledgeable lot will be able to help me out. I am fixing, as a surprise for my father, the ignition (that he took apart initially!) on our Wheel Horse 312-8. As we are in the UK we have struggled to get the ignition and loom which would have made this slightly easier. as the previous loom had melted slightly and a few wires came 'melted together'. And it is here where my problem lies. I have managed to get an ignition from a reputable provider here in the UK, but failed to get the loom. After visiting various local dealers they recommended I just connect the wires using spade connectors. From images of the ignition prior, I have been able to connect most of the wires into the new ignition with ease however where some of the wires were twisted and burned together I am struggling to work out which wires go to the remaining terminals. I have found various manuals (most helpful one attached) and think I have followed them well. However I am left over with a small red wire of which I am unsure as to where it goes. The three wires I was left with were: a white wire, a large red wire, and a small red wire. I know that the small red one but join either the big red or the white but I am unsure. What I would have ideally is someone being able to send across a photo to ensure that I can't get this wrong or to be able to say definitively where it joins. Furthermore if you can see any basic errors you feel I may have made an help on that would be graciously accepted. This is my first post but as I try to fix more and more parts it certainly won't be my last! Hope you can help gang! B ***This is all the info I have on the mower: Toro 312 - 8 Cast Iron Kohler 12 HP Engine 42" side discharge Manufactured circa 88/89 Vin/Model No: 78346 Serial Number: 3900161 Parts & Service Manual - E1 12K802/ R1-12 K01 8 Speed ***
  6. Mastiffman

    T-WH 418-6.. Worth it to purchase?

    Hello gang, Have a question about this model as I have an opportunity to purchase a used one in god shape for $425 delivered. It has 632hr on it and the infamous run and then shut off. Which I'm guessing is the Ignition Voltage Regulator under the flywheel being that it's a common problem with these Onan Engine and the amount of grass and garbage that collects under there in that area. Seller states that the "engine runs strong and tight"... The unit is NOT a Hydro but is an 8 speed and looks to be a good condition. Has new Deck Spindles and Blades with grease fittings. It comes with a 50" deck. I currently have a 1988 Belt Driven 52" Scag walk behind with a Kawasaki v420 engine with a slight knock it. But it's been that way since I got it about 8 years ago... With the work involved in the repair and the price is this 416-8 tractor with the time and money? Especially not being a Hydro... Should I just wait to find a good deal on a Hydro or get this one as I can always resell it... I like the Hydraulic setup of the H series as well as the slightly wider stance in the front end... I've Attached some Photos. I haven't seen this unit in person ad the gentlemen selling me the unit is going to be driving 15-20 miles to drop if off. There are a couple Hydros in the area but they are asking $1200-$1750... Thoughts and experience? Thanks. Andrew C.
  7. kcuttuck

    C121 will not crank

    My 1978 C121 will not start. It will not crank over. The voltage at the battery post on the key switch is 12.3 volts. When I turn the key to the run position the voltage at the battery post on the key switch drops off. I tested the clutch switch. good Replaced the key switch. Seat switch is bypassed. I am suspecting the PTO interlock switch but I have no idea how it works and how to test it. I am very mechanically inclined but I have never seen a switch like that before. Help Please. Matt
  8. Well my '73 auto 18 was running great yesterday until the engine died and quit. Next I see smoke rising from under the hood. There was short in the wire harness and wire was burned right to the copper. I reached in and was able to stop the tractor from goin up in smoke. I just ripped out the shorted wire harness and it stopped. So i took out the battery and went to work. I looked at the wiring diagram, which seems straightforward until you try to match it up with the ignition switch. After spending a couple of hours rewiring, I can not figure out which wire goes where in the ignition. Can any one help me as I am totally at a loss. The letters on electrical diagram around the ignition sketch don't match anything i see on the actual ignition. Would anyone be able to give me a hand. I don't need to compound problems by experimenting with wire combinations on the ignition. Very grateful for any help. Thank you. Jack
  9. New to WH world and this forum. Got a 1980-83? C105 with K241AS 10 hp with intermittent ignition failure. Sometimes the key simply won't get anything. No click or burp. This happens with no consistency. Hot, cold, warm... Usually, I jiggle key or wires and it's enough to get it going but I am concerned it will just get worse. Thoughts or or suggestions welcome!!! sylvanlkwh
  10. Hello everyone, Sorry to make an account and post for help right away, but I plan on sticking around for a while. Anyway, I'm having a hard time getting my 312-8 tractor to start. It's got a Kohler Magnum 12 engine and the ID under the seat is 2112K806 (space) 37223. A few weeks ago it decided it didn't want to start; when the key was turned to the run position, the seat switch light was dim or flickering very faintly. I assumed the switch was dead, as it didn't have a distinct "click" when it was pressed any more and the tractor is approaching about 30 years of age. I just got a replacement seat switch from Toro and installed it, but the tractor still refuses to start. The first few times, the seat switch appeared to be working correctly but the tractor insisted the clutch wasn't pushed in, according to the dash lights. I came back a few minutes later and the tractor still refuses to start, although now the seat switch light is behaving as it did before. If I leave the key in the run position and get off the seat, the light works correctly and lights up brightly and solidly, but sitting back down causes it to pulse and light dimly again. I've tried engaging and disengaging the PTO clutch, which the dash reports correctly, as well as the regular clutch, which also seems to respond correctly now. I'm hoping you fine folks might be able to help me, as the tractor is going to get sold if I don't get it running and it's quite important to me. Any and all help is greatly appreciated, and I thank you in advance for your help!
  11. wrightorchid

    312-8 won't start

    I finally had some time to work on the tractor. The latest fix was to replace the ignition switch. The old one was very fried on the red wire connection, and the only way I could start it was jumping with a screwdriver across the posts. I bought a replacement switch, and a pigtail, along with some marine crimp connectors. The leads from the tractor were very short, but was able to make all of the connections. I put it all back together, and now no start. When I turn to run, the lights can be turned on and volt meter activates. There is nothing lighting on the indicator board, even if I do the test button. This used to work. I have plenty of oil in the engine. When I turn it to start, the voltage drops to zero, and the lights go off. No sound at all. I tried to jump but it just turns over. There have been some switches bypassed by a previous owner. I need to get back to mowing and moving stuff. If I could replace the entire wiring harness that would be great, but I am sure it is not an easy task. Thanks for your help. Mike
  12. rockbuilt

    D250

    I went to NAPA to get ignition parts (points, rotor cap, distributor cap, and condenser) when I got them home they where all wrong and special order electrical parts can't be returned I am not mad I just don't want to make the same mistake again can anyone help with this issue Thanks
  13. Hi Folks, I've been having some trouble getting my 518-H, onan 18, started. I put in new plugs and with a spritz of carb cleaner, it ran. Today, with a spritz of carb cleaner it fired, but would not stay running. I looked at the spark on the front plug and while I could see it, it did not apprear "hot" to me. Tracing back, plug wires and coil next? It turns over well enough. Fairly new battery and i've been keeping the battery indoors this winter. Any ideas? thank you, david
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