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Found 7 results

  1. Hi All, the gas cylinder that assists my clutch in my 92 is spent. I’ve heard of people replacing the cylinder with a spring. I searched here and didn’t find a direct answer. What size, and number at a hardware store etc… is it? Thanks!
  2. Tinman1962

    Tension pulley

    Could someone point me into the right direction for the removal and replacement of the tension pulley on my 1054a thank you
  3. Duramax7man7

    Quality Replacement Parts

    Just wanted to give a public thank you to Lincoln at A-Z Tractors for sending me some quality used parts for my 1994 314h and 1991 520h! Parts list... 520h- Paring brake lever, hood latch, air cleaner sensor and rear 1-1/8" hub 314h- Fuel tank, 2x headlights, steering collar and steering wheel All parts arrived with quick shipping as well as packed very well and all were quality products! Thanks a bunch sir! Will be coming to you for future purchases as well. God Bless you and yours!
  4. Hey Fellas. Got a great deal on an almost complete front end off of 520h to go my 312-8. Everything is in really good condition. A tiny bit of play but not really bad at all. Nothing like my 90' 520h had on it before I replaced the spindles. I fabricated myself a plow extension kit last week before installing the front end today. I was sold the axle, spindles, good tie rods, lower steering shaft, lower steering support on both ends (front and steering tower areas) as well as the set of 8" rims with all working order hardware. I slap a new set of 16" x 7.5 -8" rubber on the rims, repacked the bearings and spindle thrust bearings and lubed everything after each piece was installed and still on the jack stands. Just have to pick up the tied rod washers and adjust the tie rod lengths and she'll be in fully operational order. Only thing left will be to build a new angle adjust handle for the plow and I'll be done. Figured I'd offer up some progress photos. Enjoy! Pre install... (excuse the clutter still working on that. Summer time will get er done!) New (used) axle, spindles and rims with all hardware. Pre tire removal. Was letting the soapy water sit on the beads for a few before replacement. Makes a world of difference. Really lets the tires slide right off the rims and the bead breaks with ease after only a couple of minutes of sitting with this solution on it. Dawn dish soap! Gotta Love it! New Rubber on... Will refinish the rims this summer. And I will be breaking the bead and using paper to cover the tires. No more painting rims with the tires off. ha ha. Pulled the old 312-8 tie rods with a 1/2" OE wrench at the top of tie rod end and 9/16" wrench on the bottom. Pulled the 1/2" Retaining bolt for the axle pin and plate assy. as well as the C-clip for it form the front. Dropped the whole front end out of the tractor at this point. Didn't even take the rims off. Trying to keep time down. Pulled the battery and steering column pin and lifted the steering wheel shaft out of the way to get the lower column support. Removed the two 9/16" bolts/nuts for the steering wheel shaft and lower steering shaft support and pulled that out. Interesting that WH moved to a threaded cotter pin locked nut later in years on the lower steering shaft from just the cotter pin and washers on the 520h that I have. Pulled the two 9/16" bolts and nuts from the front lower steering shaft support. At this point the lower steering shaft assy. was completely free but I also had to take and extra step and remove one side of the mid tach-matic support assy. which allowed me to slip the lock and pin mechanism out so that the lower steering assy could pass by it. Also had to lift the tractor up a bit more for clearance of that stuff as I had to pull it down and to the rear to remove and install it. Didn't photograph that. But you can see the parts that need to be removed in the picture below. I just loosened the three 9/16" bolts on the top, right hand side of the photo. Old 312-8 Lower Steering Shaft assy with shorter tie rod mount plate next the swept axle's lower shaft assy. and the beefier tie rods. Big difference in placement. Could weld a plate I guess to the bottom of the old style with the right measurements and angle. For anyone that wants to take this route, let me know and I'll get the right dimensions with a sketch up of it all.
  5. Duramax7man7

    T-WH 418-6.. Worth it to purchase?

    Hello gang, Have a question about this model as I have an opportunity to purchase a used one in god shape for $425 delivered. It has 632hr on it and the infamous run and then shut off. Which I'm guessing is the Ignition Voltage Regulator under the flywheel being that it's a common problem with these Onan Engine and the amount of grass and garbage that collects under there in that area. Seller states that the "engine runs strong and tight"... The unit is NOT a Hydro but is an 8 speed and looks to be a good condition. Has new Deck Spindles and Blades with grease fittings. It comes with a 50" deck. I currently have a 1988 Belt Driven 52" Scag walk behind with a Kawasaki v420 engine with a slight knock it. But it's been that way since I got it about 8 years ago... With the work involved in the repair and the price is this 416-8 tractor with the time and money? Especially not being a Hydro... Should I just wait to find a good deal on a Hydro or get this one as I can always resell it... I like the Hydraulic setup of the H series as well as the slightly wider stance in the front end... I've Attached some Photos. I haven't seen this unit in person ad the gentlemen selling me the unit is going to be driving 15-20 miles to drop if off. There are a couple Hydros in the area but they are asking $1200-$1750... Thoughts and experience? Thanks. Andrew C.
  6. First post. Been lurking for a year. So I caught the Wheel Horse bug last year when I bought a '90 520H. Had about 950 hours. Came with 42" deck and plow. Guy I bought it from was really decent and said that the rear cylinder was starting to lose compression. When tested it was lower than I liked but not horrible. As I recall right around 100 hot, maybe just below. (Note to self: clean out fins after every use.) The guy also threw in a blown Onan 20 from another 520 swap he had done. I bought this with the full understanding that, sooner or later, I was going to be facing the dilemma I am now facing. Unfortunately, it is sooner. I ran the tractor all summer, cutting a total of about 2.5 acres of ground every week or so. Was dutiful about clearing fins, but it was pretty dusty a couple times when I cut. Did service the breather once. Fell in love with that machine! Couldn't wait for a snowfall to push it around with the blade. In the mean time the guy I bought from had a 60" deck I had been eyeing when I picked up the tractor, and he offered it to me at a good price. Picked it up, installed it and used it for last cut of the season - a really dusty one, I might add. Ran like a dream! Deck was perfect and cut my time down considerably. I had a little slippage on PTO start up, but once moving, that deck screamed! After that last cut, I parked her in the equipment shed, put some stabilizer in the fuel, patted her nicely on the hood and wished her a good winter until the snows fell. A few weeks later, I happened to be in the equipment shed and thought I would turn her over just to keep the carb clear. She started, but she was not happy about it. When I pulled her out, it was pretty clear she was only running on one cylinder. After a while I could feel the second one kick in. Hoping against hope, I changed the plugs, thinking one might have gone bad. Nope. So, because I didn't have time that day to fiddle further, I let her sit for a few more weeks. When I came back, I could not get her to start at all, until I took off the breather assembly, and then it was ragged. After a while she would not run at all. Upon inspection I realized that it looked like spurts of fuel were coming out of the top of the carb assembly. Cold compression was 95 on the front cylinder and 5, yes 5, on the back. OK, so I've now gotten past denial stage and moved on to acceptance. I need to do something. I have lots of options. I am assuming that I have a valve problem on the engine currently in the tractor. May be something else, but, come on, its an Onan PG 220 and these are fairly classic symptoms... I think I just put it over the edge with that big deck. I probably could have babied it for another season with the smaller deck, but I had to save time!!! I don't really know what is wrong with the spare/part engine the guy threw in, but I am assuming the same thing. (Yes, I know what assuming does.) So here is (are) the question(s): Do I take these Onans to someone (because the guts of an engine, outside of maybe repairing or replacing a carb, are beyond my current skills set) to try to patch together a workable engine from them? Do I just chuck it and do a complete swap with a new engine? (which I feel fairly confident I could accomplish on my own.) And if so what engine? Options - HondaGX690, a Vanguard of similar size, the HF Predator, and maybe a Kohler. In giving your advice recognize a few things: 1. I HAVE the money to go all out on the replacement, but I am cheap as hell. The predator appeals to the second part of that. Have looked at the thread of the guy who did that replacement, so it looks simple enough, but wonder about the long term durability. 2. Similarly, I can probably afford whatever it would cost to combine engines, but, again, I am cheap as hell. I hate paying someone else to do work for me that I could do myself, or do the substitute of. Also, I worry a bit about the long term logic of fixing a 25 year old engine with another 25 year old engine. At the same time, I really loved the way that Onan roared. 3. I am fairly mechanically capable, but with limited knowledge or tools for progging around in the internal workings of an engine. Hook ups and problem solving for a retrofit should be no problem though. 4. Time is not a huge issue. I currently have a POS mower that does the job, but, sadly, is not a WH. I want to RIDE again, though.... Hit me with your best shot...
  7. chrisog

    1974 D-200 Starter Replacement

    Can anyone help me figure out how I can get a replacement (new) starter for a 1974 D200? I'm not sure how I cross-reference from an old part number to a new replacement (if there is one). Thanks in advance for any guidance. Chris
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