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Maxwell-8
45 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Check the axle surface to make sure there's a flat spot to "catch" the second set screw. I can't tell from the pics. 

It has a little spot.

45 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Good idea for you to replace those. 

Aai Aai Aai trying to find those, not an easy job. Has the tick 1 1/8 axles which are even more rare. Gone hear at my local machine shop, He may be able to make me some customs. or ask Skipper.

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Maxwell-8

Behind all the deck tape I found the remains of a failed attempt to remove the steering wheel. Do not know why they want to remove it as there is minimal steering-play. 

 

May try reuse this steering wheel or probably take one of the donor tractor. Do got to say those steering shafts are beefy compared to riding mowers/ lawn tractors. 

 

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Damien Walker

Hmm yes! From my experience, steering wheel removal is extremely difficult and is best attempted on the bench with the column and dashboard assembly removed from the tractor (so you can support the wheel against the pin removing hammer blows). It may be possible to make a tool to press the pin out in situ, but I haven't achieved this yet. The three spoke C Series wheels are the best in my opinion, the later 'automotive' style appear to have a fixing boss made out of the finest cheese which wears/spreads open with use, making the wheel a sloppy fit.

 

There is often an additional problem after you have removed the pin.. the wheel can be seized onto the column. I had to remove the wheel centre cap, drill through the plastic in the centre of the wheel and press the shaft out in a hydraulic press. This also meant cutting the shaft to remove it from the dashboard so that it would fit into the press.

 

You are probably aware that materials to rebuild such damage are available but it would obviously be easier to simply buy another wheel.

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Maxwell-8
Posted (edited)

My computer broke down about a week ago, Yesterday it wsa finnaly fixed. A week whitout any distractions got my a bit further with Amy. Eventhough I couldn't order any parts.

 

The axles seals came in  at the toro dealer, 50$ for a set:blink:.  So I got them installed and when I went to check on the hub that I thought was loose, fit on nice and snug! :bow-blue::handgestures-thumbupright:

And filled her up with some fresh oil. Since I had no belt, I wanted to check if the hydro works, put the drill on it and she seems to work fine. 

 

Finnaly I removed the shaker plate underneat the engine., like @Thor27 mentioned. And the enigne shft is sitting in the right place now.

 

Tomorrow a is new wiring and hopefully the engine is fine as well. 

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Edited by Maxwell-8
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Maxwell-8

So I did a rewire on the C175, thicker wires, bigger solenoide, new ignition switch.

 

All connections are crimped and soldered, then shrinktubed. New starter use powerfull and gets that engine spinning fast.

But I am not getting any power on on the charging cables, no power on the rectifier so the flywheel will have to come off.

 

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Maxwell-8

Got the correct belt in the mail today, but have to issues.

first up, I moved the engine of the shaker plate and this oilpan didn't had any treads nor holes in the bottom for the right engine to chassis bolts. She is only hooked up with 2 bolts now.

Second, the engine sits a hair to low looking at the belt path. 

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This may explain the belt slipping of the tensioner pulley

 

 

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Luckely the tranny works like it should, immidiate response and the up and down lift work leak-free:greetings-clappingyellow:. I was very scared for that part. since parts are hard to find, and everything was covered in sandy sand.

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rjg854

You could use some J bolts on the side that over hangs the frame.   ;)

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Handy Don
1 hour ago, rjg854 said:

You could use some J bolts on the side that over hangs the frame.   ;)

Onan's use a fixed (i.e. non-shaker) engine plate with separate bolts for engine and frame to solve the frame offset. That also adds a bit of vertical displacement.

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Gregor
2 hours ago, Handy Don said:

That also adds a bit of vertical displacement.

I have my C-125 Automatic, and my unfinished C-175 Automatic in my garage. I can't speak for the Onan engine, but the 17HP Kohler, and shaker plate, has been removed from my C-175, and replaced with a B&S 18HP Twin, with a mounting plate bolted directly to the frame. My C-125 still has the shaker plate. The rubber mounts have been replaced with the machined aluminum mounts. The vertical difference between the bottom of the oil pan, and the tractor frame, is less than 1/2". As best I can measure it anyway.  The belt guard still fits fine, but on these tractors, the belt guard does not bolt to the motor itself.

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Handy Don

We are assuming that the engine is in the correct place fore-aft and the correct drive belt is installed, right?

If the belt is too long and the engine too far forward, the belt will look low.

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