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Found 14 results

  1. So yesterday I picked-up a C175. She was rusting away as she was stored outside. She had a new to her Kohler K341. @squonk The previous owner indeed better had"LET AN ELECTRICIAN CHECK his SHORTS!" as bad wiring shorted the battery out, and exploded/melted. She has a Sundstrand hydro pump with a Filter, is that normal? By the pump I believe it's a 1980. But you never now for sure as it's made in Oevel. Due to the bad wiring, the engine was in no running condition. But don't think the K341 has many hours on it. The hydro I don't know if it works. She was hard to push. So i lift up one wheel, so we could roll here one one wheel and the diff prevented the trans from locking up. So first things to do: 1) get the engine running 2) replace the steering wheel, but don't think removing it will be very hard as it's already split in two. 3) replace the axleseals, the oil leak caused a lot of sandbuild up as she was mainly used on for leveling out a horse track. 4) clean all the acid and remove all the old wiring to do a full rewiring 5) replace the plastic seat pan with a metal. 6)... I'm looking forward on my first C. It's also my first hydro, I don't know a lot about them and prefer actual gears. Simpler and need less maintenance (parts-shortage). But since I couldn't find another project WH and me hearing a lot of good things about hydro's on the forum.. I finally took the shot.
  2. mrodgers

    Kohler K341

    Looking for a Kohler K341 engine for my C-160.
  3. I bought this K341 and was wondering what it came on originally. It's a 13 fin block and has been bored .020 over already. It has a Kohler carb which may not be original. Bill
  4. I have a Kohler K341 on a GT 14 tractor. Its always had the typical .....what are they called?........pepper shaker muffler? on the tractor. I've had to replace them several times....they seem to just eventually burn up. I can honestly say even from day one whenever I installed a new muffler of this type, I really couldn't tell that it really muffled much noise, maybe a little, but very little. As usage time goes on, they all got nothing but louder. Of course, part of this is the sheer displacement of the motor......35.9 cu. in. = 588 cc. Think of it in terms of a slightly bored out Norton Manx 500 cc thumper with an open megaphone exhaust. Deafening! You don't want to be standing 8 or 10' behind a Manx when it being warmed up and the throttle is being "blipped" to do that, without ear protection. These older flat head engines seem to be much louder than the newer OHV engines which are common in lots of equipment now. I've owned and used this tractor for 35 years now, and I guess I'm beginning to become somewhat of a crotchety old senior, but its becoming annoying to me (the operator), and I in fact had one neighbor that ragged me out over the noise. It may be because they have a pool and spend a fair amount of time outside, and the pool is about 10-11 feet from a chain link fence that divides the properties. I'm really not that worried about the neighbor nearly as much as I am myself, or should I say my hearing. I already have hearing loss from years of firing pneumatic nail guns and listening to compressors and heavy machinery running on job sites. What are you other K341 owners using and doing to get more muffling accomplished? Surely there has to be a more reasonable solution which will allow you to hear yourself think after an hour or hour and a half of operation. Is there a viable, positive solution for this problem so my ears and head don't ring for an hour after just mowing my lawn? Regards, Steve
  5. Rebuilding a C160. everything worked prior to rebuild Engine was fairly high time so machined .020 over and rebuilt Finished rewiring and made sure all the circuits were in order Starter would spin the engine. Made new coil wire and installed new spark plug Starter won't turn the engine. Tried several times with and without spark plug Same results Starter was what I took off the tractor prior to rebuild but can't say it is orininal So.......Am I missing something or is a new starter going to be the answer????? Thoughts? Ideas? All help/input appreciated BTW: Don't know if it means anything but the gear does not retract when key is moved back to ON Bob
  6. I was breaking down the engine getting it ready to go to the machine shop. Everything was pretty normal until it tried to remove the PTO race and the engine pulley. As I was setting up the "puller" I noticed the end of the crankshaft looked different but never gave it much thought. After a half a can of PB Blaster,destroying the engine pulley and turning the air in the shop blue I was able to get the crankshaft free. There was a LOT of baked on crud and grease and I thought that was the problem. Cleaned everything up and found the race would not slide on the crankshaft??? Got out the measuring tools and found the answer. The end of the crankshaft was expanded will past the 1.125". I had another crankshaft so I looked at the PTO end. It almost looks like someone bored the end and inserted some kind of tapered shaft and/or beat the heck out of the end and swelled the last 1/2"-3/4" of the crankshaft. Can anyone think of a reason???
  7. andrewLL

    Christmas project

    Hi, and a happy Christmas to all. Looking for some advice here, a couple of years ago a bought a cheap K341AS on fleebay, the chap I bought it from said it would not run right and I think he mentioned breathing fire from the carb. He replaced it on his black hood Wheelhorse with a ‘Chonda’ engine. Since then it has sat at the back of my garage but another recent fleebay purchase was a black hood C105 with new engine. So time to do something, but not tomorrow! Turkey, but no sprouts is the order of the day. I thought as a start I should sort the engine out, but can’t easily test it until it can be mounted on the tractor. I have started to strip it down and the oil is quite clean so hopefully it was looked after. Now for a few questions:- The engine is painted grey but normally Wheelhorse have a red engine, could this be a rebuilt engine?, I guess the tractor it came off was mid 80’s so a possibility. When I took the head off it was all quite clean and only took a light brushing and some carb cleaner sprayed on to clean it up. However the top of the piston is stamped with .003 and the block with +3. What does this mean, I thought oversized pistons were plus ten, twenty and thirty thousandth. Has this engine been rebored? Measuring the valve gaps they are .013” inlet (.008 - .010”) and .020” out (.017 - .019”) is this enough out of tolerance to cause problems? If so it should be an easy fix to get it going again. i am thinking of just buying a cheap replacement carb having had problems with a carb on my Raider (K301) after two rebuild kits it still leaked petrol and a replacement carb sorted it all (apart from stopping when v hot, see another post of mine) The bore of the cylinder is very clean and no scratches so hopefully no problems there. What do you think? i don’t seem able to upload pictures from my iPad, it says only allowed 30.7KB, what’s going on? How do I sort it? Andrew
  8. midpack

    Question for engine rebuilders

    I have a K341 that gave up a rod a while back. talk about "Big Bang Theory..." anyway, I tore it down to see how bad it got inside and to my surprise other than the rod, and the very bottom of the piston skirts the inside looks great! the crankpin looked like it might have taken some abuse but i used a white stone (lightly) and some polishing paper and it must have been debris from the rod or piston because it came right off. i took some measurements and it does show some wear. the crankpin measures 1.498 to 1.499 (low limit is 1.499) and out of round a full .001 (spec calls for .0005 max) the bore measures .002 out of the wear limits and is out of round about .005. going to need a new piston anyway and i can bore it at work . no problem there. my question is, would you re-use the crank in that condition? I can't grind a crank at work... lol
  9. Team70R

    K341 governer/throttle adjustment

    Got the new Chinese carb on my k341 and I'm still having issues with it. When I open the throttle all the way with it not running everything opens as should but when it's running the throttle shaft on the carb only opens half way. As in the governer isn't functioning correctly or a spring is warn. It surges terribly and almost dies when you drive it. Definitely frustrating!!! Here's a video of it running. IMG_2755.MOV
  10. DorkFish

    Amazon replacement carbs

    Has anyone ever used one of these replacement Kohler carbs from Amazon? Went ahead and ordered one for my 16 HP K341. The throttle shaft on the old one has so much play that I'm surprised the thing even runs at all. I've heard plenty of good reviews and also plenty of jeers claiming they are cheap and don't work as well. Looks like an exact copy of the Kohler carb. I guess we'll see for certain tomorrow when I get it put on...
  11. ztnoo

    Kohler K Engine Weights?

    Does any one know of a reference link to finding the weight of complete Kohler engines, in particular the K321 & K341? If you know of no electronic data about this topic, but have one of these on the bench and complete, could you somehow weigh it for the benefit of group knowledge. (Sneak the bath scales out to the garage if you can). I'd actually like to see a listing of weights for the entire Kohler K series, if anyone can contribute any piece of this puzzle. Regards, Steve
  12. ztnoo

    K341 With No Fire In The Hole

    Went to start up my GT 14 equipped with a 16 hp K341 yesterday afternoon. The starter spins like there's no tomorrow, but I've got no spark to the spark plug, so the engine's not firing. Tractor lights are working fine. I have been doing random work on the tractor and may have bumped or dislodged an electrical connection. The engine started fine last fall and has always started without problems. I'm the likely culprit here, but I'm not quite sure where to begin tracing the problem. Any suggestions as to the most likely place to first look to locate the reason I have no spark???
  13. I have a 1969 GT 14, 1-7741, which originally had a K321 14 hp engine that gave up the ghost. That was replaced with a K341 16 hp engine. The original rectifier was used when the new K341 was installed and performed fine. I am now in need of a new rectifier because of broken male spade. How can I identify the proper rectifier to match with a Kohler engine (in my case for a K321 or a K341), and what resource can I research to obtain that information? Regards, Steve
  14. Horse46

    Ceramic cylinder heads

    I was watching a few Tube vids last night on governor set up and came across a guy who had fitted a ceramic head to his K341. Q. Are they any good, are they expensive, where are they available from?
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