ebinmaine 63,218 #101 Posted June 5, 2020 I've not tried to change those. Are they not "driving in" all the way? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #102 Posted June 5, 2020 These are the bearings: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #103 Posted June 5, 2020 2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I've not tried to change those. Are they not "driving in" all the way? They seat properly at the flanges, yes. But the center sleeve (the part in contact with the axle) sticks out 1/8” and I’m head scratching. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,218 #104 Posted June 5, 2020 2 minutes ago, 55reasons said: They seat properly at the flanges, yes. But the center sleeve (the part in contact with the axle) sticks out 1/8” and I’m head scratching. Design change perhaps? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bottjernat1 2,189 #105 Posted June 5, 2020 Time for some washers! I did this to my restored rj58 because at the time i couldnt find the original front rims to save my life. Some day I will get some original front rims. Its all painted and perdy and works so i have left it alone. This is the only thing i wished was better on the restored rj58. I went threw this whole machine inside and out. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #106 Posted June 5, 2020 39 minutes ago, bottjernat1 said: Time for some washers! I did this to my restored rj58 because at the time i couldnt find the original front rims to save my life. Some day I will get some original front rims. Its all painted and perdy and works so i have left it alone. This is the only thing i wished was better on the restored rj58. I went threw this whole machine inside and out. I’m already out of axle length. I can’t add more washers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #107 Posted June 5, 2020 The thing is, someone told me to switch to sealed bearings to make it easier and less maintenance heavy (no grease). But I didn’t expect to run into this shenanigan. Nobody mentioned this. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,218 #108 Posted June 5, 2020 Perhaps a spacer that measures 3/4 OD to match the axle shaft and (3/8??) ID to match the bolt? McMaster Carr would likely have something... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
71_Bronco 1,072 #109 Posted June 5, 2020 I bought a set of those bearings off eBay about a year ago from a different vendor. I'll check them when I get home tonight to see if mine have the same issue. I did not install them yet, but will be very soon, have a long list of things to do to my WH Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #110 Posted June 7, 2020 Meanwhile, I need a rototiller, like, immediately. Anyone that has one of these things; can you tell me if this will work on this 74 C160 Auto? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #111 Posted June 7, 2020 I couldn’t find one locally, so I went out and rented a full hydraulic unit. 15 mins into the job, the Honda motor blows and the Horse has to pull it back to the trailer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,794 #113 Posted June 7, 2020 On 6/5/2020 at 1:19 PM, 55reasons said: The thing is, someone told me to switch to sealed bearings to make it easier and less maintenance heavy (no grease). But I didn’t expect to run into this shenanigan. Nobody mentioned this. I used them on my 310-8 and they worked great. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #114 Posted June 10, 2020 (edited) I went up to Ohio and back (17 hours on the road) to get this tiller. Question, where does this spring connect to for pulley tension? That spring will NOT reach the hole in the frame, and if it’s supposed to connect to the front mule drive it’s a full 6 1/2 inches short. Edited June 10, 2020 by 55reasons Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #115 Posted June 10, 2020 This is what I came up with and it works for 10ft at a time. If I hit a rock bigger than a lime, it throws the belt though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #116 Posted June 10, 2020 Everything is lined up but there are some issues: 1. It keeps falling off. The “quick hitch” arms in the manual have holes for pins to keep them closed, and this quick hitch does not have them. I don’t know why I have to drill them myself.? I’ve tightened the bolts holding the hitch arms onto the hitch as tight as they will go and they still swing open with one jerk of the tiller. 2. I don’t know why it’s throwing belts so easily, but there enough tension that I can BARELY get the belt on the idler at full stretch. When it’s turning, it’s burning though! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #117 Posted June 10, 2020 Here is a shot looking down the barrel: The previous owner made a nice adjustment plate for the rear idler to allow infinite adjustment. I might go that route to add even more tension, but I don’t know if I’ll be able to get the belt on if it’s even 1/8 tighter. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #118 Posted June 10, 2020 Shot of the rear idler adjusting plate: 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #119 Posted June 10, 2020 Pretty frustrating experience thus far having a Wheel Horse again. Still waiting on an ignition. ISaveTractors apparently doesn’t think it’s necessary to I form you before, or even after your online order, that parts are on back order. Still hot-wiring it to start it. The sealed bearings that were recommended lasted ALMOST 1 hour before they collapsed and imploded inside the wheels. Now I have to mess around, again, with freshly powder coated wheels. I’m getting close to pushing this whole thing out to the road with a for sale sign. I needed to get work done, not to drive all over the country looking for obscure attachments and adapters only to have every single thing have a “that’s weird, I never had that issue before” incident at EVERY turn. Honestly, this thing is pissing me off. I’m venting, and I’ll probably calm down later, but I’m about ready to put a rag in the gas cap and strike a match. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,218 #120 Posted June 10, 2020 53 minutes ago, 55reasons said: calm down later No worries man. Walk away for a bit... I find a fresh outlook the next day almost every time. I won't comment on isavetractors except to say: He's local to me. I buy local. Often. I've never bought from them and likely won't. I'd be happy to send you a used switch or get you the number of the new ones I buy. I can't help with the tiller as we don't run any implements. Please feel free to start a new thread in the implement section if you like. Maybe one of these guys can help. @953 nut @pfrederi @pullstart @PeacemakerJack @Ed KennellKennell @JCM Once you get it up and going right and get all the PO mistakes taken care of you'll have a fabulous machine. Read through this thread and you'll see why we would rather have a Horse than anything else: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,218 #121 Posted June 10, 2020 (edited) I use and recommend Cole Hersee. Edited June 10, 2020 by ebinmaine Need to correct number Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,750 #122 Posted June 11, 2020 Huh. I just went through the process of tossing my tiller on my 502... the little shot in EB’s link above. A couple notes. My tiller setup is not like yours. Mine’s jerry rigged. If you haven:t yet drilled the mount for pins, you’ll need to. I’m not sure why they aren’t there already but you need those pins. Here’s a few things to try, unless the manual says different. Run the belt on the outside bell on the PTO. It should slow the tiller down and the belt too. You might have too much tension. Try finding a spot closer to hook up the tensioner. I can almost yank the belt right off and it isn’t even aligned very well, but it doesn’t throw it. It has been years since I ran my tiller on the appropriate Horse, but it seems like the pulley setup should have a straight bar between the two pulleys and the tensioner spring. I seem to believe it sprung back? 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #123 Posted June 11, 2020 13 hours ago, ebinmaine said: No worries man. Walk away for a bit... I find a fresh outlook the next day almost every time. I won't comment on isavetractors except to say: He's local to me. I buy local. Often. I've never bought from them and likely won't. I'd be happy to send you a used switch or get you the number of the new ones I buy. I can't help with the tiller as we don't run any implements. Please feel free to start a new thread in the implement section if you like. Maybe one of these guys can help. @953 nut @pfrederi @pullstart @PeacemakerJack @Ed KennellKennell @JCM Once you get it up and going right and get all the PO mistakes taken care of you'll have a fabulous machine. Read through this thread and you'll see why we would rather have a Horse than anything else: I cooled off. Still annoyed that I have to drill my own holes to retain the attachment on the quick hitch. But it has to be done. I can get a switch, but I’m pretty sure it’s the neutral safety switch causing it not to engage the solenoid. No time for that at the moment. It’ll just open another can of worms and I’ll lose another whole day messing with really poor wiring hacks. Had to tighten the PTO clutch adjuster to keep enough tension to engage the tiller under load. I mean, it’s working, but I’m in my own personal hell struggling with this thing when I’m somewhat OCD when it comes to all my other vehicles and machines. I just don’t understand why on something so simple and basic in design, people still can’t manage to just repair something PROPERLY the first time. I hate chasing around the “WTF’s” on something as basic as a tractor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,218 #124 Posted June 11, 2020 6 minutes ago, 55reasons said: I’m somewhat OCD when it comes to all my other vehicles and machines Me too. That, in my opinion, is a good thing. 7 minutes ago, 55reasons said: just don’t understand why on something so simple and basic in design, people still can’t manage to just repair something PROPERLY the first time One of the great mysteries of life right there and also one of the primary reasons why I stopped using the existing harness on the tractor builds that we've done. I literally just rip out every piece of bird's nest or spaghetti that's in there and start over. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #125 Posted June 11, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, pullstart said: Huh. I just went through the process of tossing my tiller on my 502... the little shot in EB’s link above. A couple notes. My tiller setup is not like yours. Mine’s jerry rigged. If you haven:t yet drilled the mount for pins, you’ll need to. I’m not sure why they aren’t there already but you need those pins. Here’s a few things to try, unless the manual says different. Run the belt on the outside bell on the PTO. It should slow the tiller down and the belt too. It has been years since I ran my tiller on the appropriate Horse, but it seems like the pulley setup should have a straight bar between the two pulleys and the tensioner spring. I seem to believe it sprung back? Thanks for the ideas! Your comment about being sprung “back” made me dig deeper into some manuals. I can’t run the belt on the outside PTO bell because there would be too much belt deflection down to the mid-mount idler assembly. I see that it originally called for a bolt to be installed through the frame just ahead of the footrest to use as a spring anchor point. That clears up some of my head-scratching! I’m going to try that and search around for an appropriate spring for that setup, as I think that might provide more constant tension and more idler movement for getting belts on when they hop off. You can see the bolt in the photo below. 3/8-16 x 2 3/4 bolt and two nuts to match. Edited June 11, 2020 by 55reasons 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites