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55reasons

1975 C-160 [so many questions. Brace yourself]

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55reasons

First things first, I need to get it up and running as soon as possible.

 

A restoration is in the plans for the next year or two, but for right now I just need it to do what it’s supposed to do, regardless of how it looks.

 

I bought the whole lot yesterday.

The seller lost the keys.

 

He says he just spent $400 at a repair shop getting it up and running, but I don’t have any idea where that money was spent other than a battery.

 

Need an ignition.

Need the front attachamatic pulley support.

Apparently needs a starter.

 

I should just get the K series rebuild kit probably, but I was told “isavetractors” is not shipping out parts.

 

What’s going on with the exhaust?   That can’t be right, can it?

 

It needs tires, should I change from factory size (it has the original chains), so I’m not sure if I should get an aggressive tread, or just use the chains when that’s necessary.

 

Meanwhile, it came with the original manual and the switch all the way to the left of the dash that says “Up and Down” does not appear anywhere in the manual. What’s it for?

 

Please take a look at the photos and pick it apart.  I will not be offended at all.

 

I want to put it to work on a lawn project ASAP, then I’ll dust it off and go back through and make it pretty later.

 

DCDF211F-81F0-49FB-AC39-38E48C9400BD.jpeg.31c2d7938ae924e6006eac9713e342d1.jpeg

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55reasons

FF9B292F-25E1-44F7-96A2-8E67A9FD41DC.jpeg

BAA98740-2F3F-4793-9A8E-6B9F8570DED2.jpeg

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55reasons

Dash.

 

what’s the switch in the top left for?

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55reasons

D2FB8757-DC8E-4BFD-BE19-53276EF65BFF.jpeg

B2B6CCCD-D032-4CF7-AAD7-AB6B5F094646.jpeg

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55reasons

F3A3BCDD-1D37-4660-ACBA-326F9FA1A41C.jpeg

BB1D0B29-270C-4206-8929-635590A90671.jpeg

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stevasaurus

The switch is for your hydrolic lift for attachments like mower and snow blade.

 

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55reasons
9 minutes ago, stevasaurus said:

The switch is for your hydrolic lift for attachments like mower and snow blade.

 


If the little switch is for the hydraulics, then what is the lever connected to the hydraulics for?

 

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12Horse Paladin
Posted (edited)
1 minute ago, 55reasons said:


If the little switch is for the hydraulics, then what is the lever connected to the hydraulics for?

 

I believe that switch just turns the pto on and off, but if im wrong others that know better will clarify...

Welcome!😊

Edited by 12Horse Paladin
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ebinmaine

I put a reminder in my phone calendar to check on that ignition switch for you later today.

 

Why do you think you need a starter? Po info?

 

That muffler is most certainly not original. It really should have a 45-degree bend in it to get it away from the hood.

Other than that, nothing wrong with using that muffler other than it maybe a touch loud.

 

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ebinmaine

Has two tires, the biggest key to traction is actually weight. The more weight you have, the more traction you're going to have.

 

I've tried AG tires and also turfs with chains and I can honestly say I do not know which one is best for traction.

There are quite a few threads on this site with lots of good information about tires. Traction. Weights. No weights.

 

Many various opinions and experiences.

All of them are correct on all sides because the needs of individuals are variable. 

 

 

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55reasons
4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I put a reminder in my phone calendar to check on that ignition switch for you later today.

 

Why do you think you need a starter? Po info?

 

That muffler is most certainly not original. It really should have a 45-degree bend in it to get it away from the hood.

Other than that, nothing wrong with using that muffler other than it maybe a touch loud.

 


Thanks.

 

Yes, the PO told me the starter went out.

 

I have seen other photos of similar exhaust profiles, so I asked.

 

were the original exhaust setups also threaded into the head like this one, or was there some

sort of flange/gasket ?

 

 

7FD16002-65F8-45E0-9BDC-28FDA4EDFC52.jpeg

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ebinmaine
2 minutes ago, 55reasons said:


Thanks.

 

Yes, the PO told me the starter went out.

 

I have seen other photos of similar exhaust profiles, so I asked.

 

were the original exhaust setups also threaded into the head like this one, or was there some

sort of flange/gasket ?

 

 

7FD16002-65F8-45E0-9BDC-28FDA4EDFC52.jpeg

This particular engine they were threaded.

That's regular NPT pipe.

 

the original would have bent down between the engine and the hood and exited the opposite side.

 

Here's what I did on my cinnamon horse which is a 1974 C160 - 8

 

 

IMG_20200518_192131811_BURST001.jpg

IMG_20200518_192115304_BURST001.jpg

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pullstart

:text-welcomeconfetti: @55reasons!  

 

Most all indak brand keys are the same.  My 2018 Scag ZTR key works for a 1960’s Wheelhorse.

 

Start with getting power to the starter, then see if you need to replace it.  Do you have a volt meter?  If you turn the key and nothing happens, please don’t start replacing stuff at random, trace your power.

 

As EB mentioned, weight will likely be your best traction aid.  I am a fan of the Deestone 23x10.5-12 tires.  They help give great traction for the price and look good doing it.  Their size is less than advertised, the 10.5’s are more like 9” wide.  8.5’s... more like 7 or so.

 

As for the exhaust... same thing here.  Get it running and reliable then make it your own.

 

 

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55reasons
50 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

Your tractor is a 1974 model. Here are 2 pages of info on the model.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=1-0480&quick=1

 

Garry


Interesting.   The manual the dealer gave the PO when he bought it is a 75 manual with the sale date, etc.

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55reasons
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, pullstart said:

:text-welcomeconfetti: @55reasons!  

 

Most all indak brand keys are the same.  My 2018 Scag ZTR key works for a 1960’s Wheelhorse.

 

Start with getting power to the starter, then see if you need to replace it.  Do you have a volt meter?  If you turn the key and nothing happens, please don’t start replacing stuff at random, trace your power.

 

As EB mentioned, weight will likely be your best traction aid.  I am a fan of the Deestone 23x10.5-12 tires.  They help give great traction for the price and look good doing it.  Their size is less than advertised, the 10.5’s are more like 9” wide.  8.5’s... more like 7 or so.

 

As for the exhaust... same thing here.  Get it running and reliable then make it your own.

 

 


If I had a key, I would have already troubleshot the starting circuit I can assure you.  lol....

 

The Deestones look great, but I have a huge clover lawn and I’m pretty sure they’re way too aggressive for a clover lawn.

 

I’m looking at maybe something in between.

 

This might be heresy here, but this golf cart tire looks like it might be a good compromise for the rear.


I might mandrel bend an exhaust for it.  I’m not too concerned about how loud it is.  I’d prefer it to not be made of of pipe though, and I’d like something that points down, or if it’s sideways, at least a tip that points at a downward angle.

 

1478AF40-B293-4DA5-A043-939A9092625B.jpeg

Edited by 55reasons
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ebinmaine

@Sparky runs an interesting tire on the back of one of his machines. Let's see if he will chime in.

 

 

If you want to try just a key I'd be happy to mail you one. I've got a spare or two somewhere.

But if you're wanting to get it running as soon as possible an ignition switch won't be a huge investment... Even if it turns out not to be what you needed.

 

 

Do you have a half decent old-time parts store near you?

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Trouty56

put power to the coil from the battery and jump pack to the starter...start using it

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Trouty56

who knows that little switch is rigged for something...that rascal would be fun to figure out....

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55reasons
24 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

@Sparky runs an interesting tire on the back of one of his machines. Let's see if he will chime in.

 

 

If you want to try just a key I'd be happy to mail you one. I've got a spare or two somewhere.

But if you're wanting to get it running as soon as possible an ignition switch won't be a huge investment... Even if it turns out not to be what you needed.

 

 

Do you have a half decent old-time parts store near you?


I’d like a key, but I think I can get those online.

 

An ignition with keys appears to be about $20.

 

I’m not worried about cost, really.

 

I haven’t looked around for any old-time

parts stores.

 

I’m a metric guy.  Blasphemy, I know, but I have a huge garage and not a single wrench with a fraction on it.

 

I’m gonna have to go Harbor Freight and buy this thing it’s own tool box set.  lol...

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55reasons
8 minutes ago, Trouty56 said:

who knows that little switch is rigged for something...that rascal would be fun to figure out....


 

The switch is in photos of the dash, but it’s never named, or spoken about.

 

I just saw it in the 74 manual.

 

it does appear

to have a wire running to the hydraulic cylinder under the left foot rest.

 

Is it

really possible

that it has both a switch, and a hand operated piston?

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55reasons

The manual, (which based on the model number appears to be the wrong one), that was given to the original owner when he bought it, also has the excerpt for the mower decks.

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55reasons

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55reasons

This is what the dealer gave him.

Apparently it was for the wrong year, but note they circled the model and deck, and his wife’s name is scribed on the front, as she bought it for him as a gift.  I imagine they wrote it there when they set it all aside for pickup.

 

 

1527BFD9-CA5A-44E9-A5C1-233565FD0F33.jpeg

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lynnmor
4 hours ago, 55reasons said:

FF9B292F-25E1-44F7-96A2-8E67A9FD41DC.jpeg

 

That is/was the switch for an electric lift kit.  How it found its way on to a hydraulic tractor is a mystery.  There is a part number for the decal and here is reference to the kit from a 1975 brochure: here image.png.c3741645cc343df5b4f9768eb7eb20fb.png

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