Jump to content
tntatro

Question about charging system on k301

Recommended Posts

tntatro

The stator and flywheel on this engine are different than others I have worked on so far. The stator is smaller in diameter and has a wire that runs out to a part that looks like an ignition coil but has no plug wire. I am wondering what it is and how do I wire it?

 

I'm not 100% positive that I put it back in the same spot it came but I think I did. I gapped it at .020" from the bump that sticks out on the flywheel, it is magnetized.

20190824_175532.jpg

20190824_175527.jpg

20190717_173806.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

You have the Breakerless ignition system.  be very careful how you wire it any power applied can destroy it.  The bump isn't magnetized the trigger is.  look at the Kohler service manual for correct wiring and testing. Sorry no time right now to link it for you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tntatro

Thanks, it could be fried already, is it part of the ignition or charging system?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
5 hours ago, tntatro said:

Thanks, it could be fried already, is it part of the ignition or charging system?

Ignition.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

The white wire on the I terminal goes to the triangular shaped coil.  The second wire attached to the connector goes to the M terminal of your ignition switch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tntatro

Thanks, I don't have a triangular shaped coil and all my mowers have 15 amp systems. I was going to try to sell this engine but need to at least get it running. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
7 minutes ago, tntatro said:

need to at least get it running.

You could convert it to a battery ignition system. This thread by @Aldon, our birthday boy, covers it well.

 

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tntatro

I just read through a bit of the conversion and saw that the breakerless doesn't use points but this block had points on it I believe. Maybe the previous owner converted it. I'll have to read through the conversion thread when I have time. I like the idea of converting to points.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tntatro

I just read through the conversation on converting to points and coil. As far as the third wire coming out of the stator, do I just cut that off and discard the trigger and the charging system will do its job? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tntatro

Or can I just leave the trigger in its place and unplug the wire coming out of it, which would be easier because I already put the flywheel on?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

You can leave the trigger in place and /or cut the wire (insulate the end to be safe)  Before you  discard the trigger test it . if it works they sell for over $100.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tntatro

How do I test it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

The manual is your friend.

 

 

test.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tntatro

Thanks, so the trigger is the SCR. I don't have a flashlight tester but I have a multimeter. It appears to be a continuity test and just making sure it switches when the magnet touches metal. I'll go try it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tntatro

I'm not sure the test I did was right but the only way I could get continuity was by having the positive lead on the mounting post and negative on the A terminal and it read around 19 with the meter set at 20k. If I had the negative on the mounting terminal and positive on A there was no reading. That doesn't make sense to me but that is how it is. I could not get a reading from the I terminal with the leads either way or by tapping the magnet with metal. I think the trigger is bad but not sure.

 

Thanks for the help.

 

This appears to be the 10 amp stator, do I need to use a 10 amp rectifier with it or can a 15 be used? Looking online at rectifiers the part numbers cross for both the 10 and 15 except the rectifiers in the parts manual look different than mine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

You can use the 15 amp regulator with the 10 amp stator no problem.  Get a couple aa batteries and a flash light bulb and some wire ...you have the tester

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • jebeli
      By jebeli
      So I have an old and tired K161 with an electric start. I picked up a K181 at the show but is a pull start. I swapped the flywheels and the cowling wont fit over the plate behind the flywheel. And the recoil tin has a smaller hole compared to the electric start. So if I swap the plates behind the flywheel does the crank shaft bearing come of to? Do I have to press this back in? Maybe I should just find a k181 elec start tin?
    • Gingerbread
      By Gingerbread
      I’m new to this and not sure if I’m doing this right, But I have a 211-4 with a Briggs 11hp and the thing was sold in my town years ago when it was new. it was my grandfathers till now so it’s a nice piece of history. and it has some electrical problems I can’t figure out, It blows the 15Amp fuse as soon as you turn the key, it all started after the I had to replace the the ignition switch. And now it just blows the fuse. I messed with it when it happened but I have been away in the service for about two years, but now I’m on leave and want to fix my pride and joy but don’t know if my wires are all in the right spot. And my brother actually hooked the battery up backwards by accident for a few seconds while I was away so don’t know if that did anything. So any helpful suggestions or pictures for an example to look at. Thanks
    • mryanpilarski
      By mryanpilarski
      Is there anybody who would be able to draw out on these photos which way the stator wire runs? i have it coming out at the 4:00 position right now, then all the way around behind the stator counter-clockwise to where the voltage rectifier would be on the left hand side (8:00)
       
      I put the wire holder bracket on the bolt where the breather tube is, these photos are before that. 
       
      The way i have it now, the wire comes awfully close to the flywheel and I just don't want it to rub on there and I am out a stator
       
      Thanks! 
       
       


    • illinibrew
      By illinibrew
      I have been into garden tractors for a few years.  Wanted to learn about small engines and buying an old sear suburban was cheaper than the class at the local community college.  Just got a 1980 C85 (with a johnny bucket on it).  
    • richm1386
      By richm1386
      Quick story and a couple of questions concerning replacing the ignition coil on my '89 416-8 with Onan P216 engine. 
       
      So I got this old tractor from my Dad when he replaced it and it was running okay until a few weeks ago. Was picking up sticks and hauling them out to the wood pile when I idled down the tractor and then it stalled out (which happens all the time.) I tried starting again and it would not turn over. The starter would go and go but no ignition. I spent a lot of time on these forums and found some really good info including the service manual. I used that diagnose the problem and figured out the coil was bad. I ordered a new off brand coil and condenser from Amazon for $40 swapped them in last night and it fired almost immediately. Plus since I had taken the shroud off and disconnected the throttle cable it was idling well at very low throttle. I've still got to reassemble everything properly but it seems like the coil was the culprit.
      That said I've got a couple questions.
       
      1. Anybody have any luck with non-Onan coils?The one I got from Amazon seems well made but it is literally some no name part. I figured for $40 it was worth a shot.
       
      2. Does it matter which spark plug attaches to which plug on the coil? I forgot to take a photo before I disassembled. 
       
      3. Could a failing coil cause very hard starts and stalling at low idle? I'm asking because as I said above the tractor has been very hard to start for years. Almost always needed to choke it. It would also stall out if you idled down nearly every time. Just the brief testing with the new coil that I've done, both of these issues seem much better. Also I used my Dad's replacement (early '90s 416-h with same engine) for this tractor while working on mine and it started and idled very easily. It looks like it might have a replacement coil as well. Just wondering. 
       
      Thanks all.
       
×
×
  • Create New...