Jump to content
Gingerbread

Wiring

Recommended Posts

Gingerbread

I’m new to this and not sure if I’m doing this right, But I have a 211-4 with a Briggs 11hp and the thing was sold in my town years ago when it was new. it was my grandfathers till now so it’s a nice piece of history. and it has some electrical problems I can’t figure out, It blows the 15Amp fuse as soon as you turn the key, it all started after the I had to replace the the ignition switch. And now it just blows the fuse. I messed with it when it happened but I have been away in the service for about two years, but now I’m on leave and want to fix my pride and joy but don’t know if my wires are all in the right spot. And my brother actually hooked the battery up backwards by accident for a few seconds while I was away so don’t know if that did anything. So any helpful suggestions or pictures for an example to look at. Thanks

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
roadapples

:WRS: and thank you for your service...:flags-usa:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

Do not know your model number so this may not be correct

 

  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut

:WRS:

Thanks for being a defender of our freedom. What branch of the service are you in?

We are always glad to hear of people showing some love to the old family :wh:. Looking at the wiring diagram that @gwest_ca provided there are a couple things that come to mind. Is the switch you installed the correct switch, 103-991? Is the PTO switch to the blades turned off? Have you inspected all of the wires to see if there is chafing or mouse damage. The wires to the electric PTO switch need a very close inspection, also the white wire leading to the engine. Both of these wires are powered when the key is turned on.

If you have a 12 volt test light you can use it in place of the fuse while testing. If there is a short it will glow brightly, when the short circuit has been eliminated it will go out.

Hope this helps.

457514016_Screenshot(22).png.270bb11fff54c77ab89ba74251df0f89.png 

  • Like 3
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Achto
9 hours ago, Gingerbread said:

 It blows the 15Amp fuse as soon as you turn the key, it all started after the I had to replace the the ignition switch

 

:WRS:

 

If you still have the old ignition switch, compare it to the new one. Not all Indak switches are configured the same, the terminals can be in different positions. If this is the case then you can use a small screw driver to remove the terminals from the plug and place them where they need to be. One very important note: Your new switch can not have a terminal marked "I" on it, if it does you have the wrong switch for a Briggs engine. Your switch should have a terminal marked "M", this should be hooked to the kill wire for the coil. 

 

Also let's hope that the new switch did not send positive battery power to the ignition coil. This would destroy the coil immediately. Not the end of the world as they still sell coils at a reasonable price, just a little more work. 

 

Edited by Achto
  • Like 3
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Gingerbread

So I looked at my switches and the original on the left two tabs and the bottom are mark ABS from top to bottom and the one off to the side is 3, the new one I’m looking at GLBMS with nothing on the side any idea how to find the actual one online? Hard to find an older oneimage.jpg.d120d6f60c1830129737d5e66fee1953.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Gingerbread

And my wires that are all near the steering column  look fine I cleaned some ends up and the only damaged looking wire that I tried to fix was one that went behind the starter and to the top of the engine. And the pic is what I’m guessing is the serial/model number than it says made in USA 7022

image.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Achto
28 minutes ago, Gingerbread said:

new one I’m looking at GLBMS with nothing on the side any idea how to find the actual one online?

 

New switch

G = ground wire

L = lights, (could also be used for the charging wire)

B = battery positive

M = magneto (kill wire from your ignition coil)

S = Starter ( wire to your starter relay)

 

Marking on the old switch

A = alternator (charging wire)

B = battery positive

S = Starter

The rest should be marked as well, sometimes on the opposite of the term as the rest.

 

Look through the manuals section on here and find your tractor. It will have a part number for the factory switch, you can use that number to do a search. Or you can move the wires in the switch plug so that they go where they need to.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

We do not have an original wiring diagram for the 1987 model but suspect the 1988 wiring above is the same. The ignition switch is the same.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut

103-991 is a very common switch, most places like Tractor Supply will have it. Take another look at the switch you have and see if the terminals are the same.   The "L" and "R" terminals are the same thing depending on the manufacturer.

103-991.jpg.8f84a2a4c2f9b881f050e58062cda5e1.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Gingerbread

Okay after a long day of checking old stores an old man happened to have an ignition that matched my old one, I didn’t know that about that the post would be different and that will be a problem so thank all you guys for that, I checked all my wires and fixed one, I put on a new solenoid because the other one was cracked and that bad boy fired right up now I just need to get my carb Set and I’ll be mowing soon. Thank you guys for the help

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • 953 nut
      By 953 nut
      I have a few basic electrical system diagrams that are helpful in understanding how the wiring system works. They are not specific to any particular tractor and do not include safety switches. All use the 5 post ignition switches 103-991 for Magneto and 103-990 for Battery Ignition. I failed to include fuses in the Starter Generator drawing, this is an over-site and I would encourage fuses be used as shown in the other two drawings. 
      Hope this is helpful.
      Magneto Ignition system with electric start and solenoid.

      Battery powered ignition system with points, condenser, solenoid and electric start.

      Battery powered ignition with solenoid, points, condenser, Starter Generator and a mechanical voltage regulator.

      We have uncovered a shortcoming in the factory  wiring diagrams for S/G battery ignition systems with a four terminal voltage regulator. The wire from the regulator "Gen" terminal to the S/G  "A" terminal was omitted. This drawing should clear that up.

       
    • illinibrew
      By illinibrew
      I have been into garden tractors for a few years.  Wanted to learn about small engines and buying an old sear suburban was cheaper than the class at the local community college.  Just got a 1980 C85 (with a johnny bucket on it).  
    • richm1386
      By richm1386
      Quick story and a couple of questions concerning replacing the ignition coil on my '89 416-8 with Onan P216 engine. 
       
      So I got this old tractor from my Dad when he replaced it and it was running okay until a few weeks ago. Was picking up sticks and hauling them out to the wood pile when I idled down the tractor and then it stalled out (which happens all the time.) I tried starting again and it would not turn over. The starter would go and go but no ignition. I spent a lot of time on these forums and found some really good info including the service manual. I used that diagnose the problem and figured out the coil was bad. I ordered a new off brand coil and condenser from Amazon for $40 swapped them in last night and it fired almost immediately. Plus since I had taken the shroud off and disconnected the throttle cable it was idling well at very low throttle. I've still got to reassemble everything properly but it seems like the coil was the culprit.
      That said I've got a couple questions.
       
      1. Anybody have any luck with non-Onan coils?The one I got from Amazon seems well made but it is literally some no name part. I figured for $40 it was worth a shot.
       
      2. Does it matter which spark plug attaches to which plug on the coil? I forgot to take a photo before I disassembled. 
       
      3. Could a failing coil cause very hard starts and stalling at low idle? I'm asking because as I said above the tractor has been very hard to start for years. Almost always needed to choke it. It would also stall out if you idled down nearly every time. Just the brief testing with the new coil that I've done, both of these issues seem much better. Also I used my Dad's replacement (early '90s 416-h with same engine) for this tractor while working on mine and it started and idled very easily. It looks like it might have a replacement coil as well. Just wondering. 
       
      Thanks all.
       
    • tntatro
      By tntatro
      The stator and flywheel on this engine are different than others I have worked on so far. The stator is smaller in diameter and has a wire that runs out to a part that looks like an ignition coil but has no plug wire. I am wondering what it is and how do I wire it?
       
      I'm not 100% positive that I put it back in the same spot it came but I think I did. I gapped it at .020" from the bump that sticks out on the flywheel, it is magnetized.



    • Canaaner
      By Canaaner
      Ran fine all summer, no blows the dash fuse (10 A) once it's started. Will run momentarily then, fuse blows and nothing. Replaced fuse, ran for a minute then fuse blew again. Any help?
×
×
  • Create New...