Jump to content
Aldon

GT22-8 Modifying GT14 to 8 speed and 22hp Predator

Recommended Posts

 
bmsgaffer

I am following this one! It sounds awesome and I look forward to your progress!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??

I've seen your work Aldon, I'm in as well!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut

:woohoo:   Been looking forward to this one. The six speed Transaxle from a 1057 or 1267 (5060) is a limited slip and they work great, I have one in one of my 953s. You may be able to pick up the center section from one of our parts vendors.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Aldon
1 minute ago, 953 nut said:

:woohoo:   Been looking forward to this one. The six speed Transaxle from a 1057 or 1267 (5060) is a limited slip and they work great, I have one in one of my 953s. You may be able to pick up the center section from one of our parts vendors.

What diameter axles are one those?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
5 minutes ago, Aldon said:

diameter axles

1 1/8

'

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Aldon

Hmmmm. Well if I run across a parts tranny from 953 or 1054 before I start mocking things up, then there is still a chance this could end up with a limited slip.

 

Otherwise, I plan to try and mount Go-Kart disc brakes to the backside of the D-series Hubs as they have 4 tapped holes conveniently located on backside. Spaced 2 3/8" inches apart. I am not absolutely certain this will work until I mock it up and custom set wheel backspace. But it works in my head! LOL

 

The brakes, essentially turning brakes, can be my poor mans limited slip.

Edited by Aldon
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??

We kinda had this discussion about the 5060 and it's pros/cons for a plow tractor transmission the other day when I visited @Shynon's. Not that you might plow with it Aldon but anyway it was brought up if that 50 yo spring were to break in there... yikes. Another con is the aluminum side plates that holds all those pinions in ther might not hold up to the rigors of plowing. Mike @prondzy actually showed me a side plate that was cracked due to overtorquing the differential bolts. Probably not huge concerns pending what you might use this machine for. We are just plowing fruitcakes and looking for the strongest unit for doing that. Either way double :handgestures-thumbupright::handgestures-thumbupright: for what you have in your head! :)

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
1 hour ago, Aldon said:

run across a parts tranny from 953 or 1054

:no:   1067 or 1267, I transplanted one into a 953, the stock 953 is an open differential and not known for their strength.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Aldon

Lol. :unsure:

 

I heard you that time:-)

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??

I got it the first time Aldon:ychain:....Richard that has got to one brutal 953 in the rear then!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
mmmmmdonuts

Definitely very interested in this thread. Just out of curiosity which 8 speed tranny do you actually have model wise? The 8 speed / 8 pinion would be the strongest but I don't think it has limited slip. My Raider also has the 5060, which is the 10 pinion limited slip with the 1-1/8 axles. I also read in a different post about modifying a 10 pinion it to an 8 pinion (albeit with some grinding). 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Aldon

The tranny is a 8 speed 8 pinion. But the blessed maker likes to challenge me. So somehow I ended up gettting one of the few 8 speeds that they ran out of 1533 bearings for and used a unique bearing on. @Racinbob and @stevasaurus identified as a 111199 if I recall.

 Some pics of the state it was in when I got it....it's not obvious but the hi-lo shift fork was broken. I have new parts ready to install as it goes back together. Also a pic of the unique bearing. 

 

I have been been unable to locate new bearings to replace. If anyone knows of a source, send me a note. Thanks

IMG_0117.PNGIMG_0118.PNGIMG_0119.PNGIMG_0120.PNG

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
Aldon

Thanks. Much appreciated.

 

I think I spent all my time trying to find the bearing elsewhere using the  S875B part number on the bearing. ***** I just ordered a pair ! *****

 

For those interested, here are some pics of the bearing comparisons, along with what I was able to measure them.....disclaimer "I am not a machinest" as such, take that into account. also a couple pics of the broken shift fork and the NOS parts. I will capture tractor stuff in the next post for those concerned that this thread is too Tranny heavy:roll: LOL

Comparison Numbers 111199 vs 1533.JPG

Side by Side comparison of 111199 and 1533 bearings.JPG

Top view Comparison of the 111199 vs 1533.JPG

Broken Shift Lever2.JPGBroken Shift Lever3.JPG

Shift Lever NOS parts.jpg

 

Pics of GT14 Hydro Diff vs 8 speed 8 Pinion Diff before modification.

 

GT14 Hydro Diff vs 8 pinion 8 speed Diff.JPG

 

Edited by Aldon
  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
 
WHX??
4 hours ago, stevasaurus said:

(1968) had aluminum end plates...1969 and up have steel end plates

Not to steal your thunder or thread  Aldon but @stevasaurus my 67 had AL plates and can the steel end plates be used on earlier units? Do you think WH knew the AL plates were a weak spot and went to steel?

Those bearings are awfully close in dims Aldon but Lowell's won't work??

Edited by WHX9
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Aldon

Actually I was comfortable using the 1533's if I could not locate the correct ones. I had planned on using the green loctite and using a punch to deform the edge as I expect new bearings to far outlast my needs. However since I was directed to correct bearings, Ill use them and save a potential future owner the hassle of having to heat the bearings and extra effort to remove the punch areas.

This is the product I had planned on using but will not require now.

Green Loctite.PNG

Edited by Aldon
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??

Yes that's a good product to have on the bench anyway. Hope you don't give up on the dual brakes idea tho! :)

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

OK...the 5060 trans had aluminum plates...the 5071 and 5073 had steel plates.  :)  and yes you can interchange them.  Actually, the #5060 I rebuilt had one of each...tells me someone else has been in there.   :occasion-xmas:

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
dclarke

Pretty interesting build, Aldon. I'll be following this also. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
19richie66

I am along for the ride.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Aldon

It may be a while before I post anything of significance although I'll respond to questions. 

 

As of tonight I finally cleared the latest significant hurdle. And I am embarrassed to say how happy I was to accomplish such a simple feat.

 

I have wrestled on and off for weeks and tonight I finally managed to break that danged hitch pin loose from the larger half of the tranny case. I was concerned I was going to crack the casting but it finally gave up!!!!! 

 

And since it seems silly to post such a minor event, I'll post a couple pics of the D-series hub for those not familiar with them. The 4 threaded holes on the backside are where I am considering mounting a go-kart disc brake set up to act as turning brake and assist as a poor mans limited slip diff. 

IMG_0126.JPGIMG_0127.JPGIMG_0128.JPG

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
fast88pu

See you got the pin out

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • Rob R
      By Rob R
      I finally broke something serious on my GT14 the Lift arm that is attach (by chain) to the plow snapped off at the receiver arm top which is attached to the Hydro cylinder on the bottom. It appears the broken arm was welded there (see pics) my big question is how do get the "H" arm which is mounted on each side of the tractor by the steel plates the go up from the tractor frame out. I took off the four mounting bolts for it but it is tightly fit in aforementioned side plates I can move it up and down but cannot get it out. Is it relatively easy to remove one of the side plates and if yes which side is the easiest the pedal side left side (from the back) or the right side (from the back). Has anyone from the square experienced this problem, does anyone have this lift assembly. Any and all comments welcomed. p.s. I have used this beast for 10 years with zero major issues guess the stress of the lifting finally got to the arm which obviously is under tremendous pressure......Rob


    • Rob R
      By Rob R
      Hi Guys, got a K321 14HP Kohler in house with all the electrical components removed. I cleaned and aligned the points, added a 12v (resistor coil) positive 12V battery feed to positive terminal, ran a line from the negative side of the coil to the points. I know I have to add a condenser also to the negative side. My question is does location of the condenser matter i.e. next to the coil or is closer to the points better. Thanks Rob 
    • tractorboy79
      By tractorboy79
      I was looking around on ebay and noticed that hydraulic actuators from John Deere 312, 317, etc models appear to be Identical to a Gt14 or d series lift cylinder. My question is would a new cylinder from ebay be able to replace one that is on a gt14 or d series?
       
      Images below of cylinders to show similaritys.


    • wh315-8
      By wh315-8
      I have a question about the 69’ model. I took my tank out to work on carb easier. A couple weeks later as I put it back together & after cleaning everything; I replaced the white weatherstripping that was at bottom of tank and on the corners of the strap. Seems to be all that holds it in place. Because the strap around the tank will not go around the metal bracket on bottom and fit the tank. And even if it did the strap would only line up with the bracket mounting bolts which would be in the way. What did I miss? Didn’t pay close enough attention when I took it apart and can’t see in the parts diagram where the strap does go around the bracket. The weather stripping is tacky enough that the tank stays in place and it is a made to fit perfectly in position. Just seems that the metal strap is pointless.




    • tractorboy79
      By tractorboy79
      I have a old gt14 and the plastic plates or control panels are way past their prime, and I saw someone was remarking them with a 3d printer a little while back and I was looking to se if I could find the file but no luck. If anybody has info that would be amazing. Thanks for your time and anything helps.
×
×
  • Create New...