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Found 8 results

  1. I just picked this up at an auction, I know its some type of suburban, but have no clue on the model. It has a small Tecumseh on it
  2. koalassquad

    1054 Hard Shifting

    My 1054 is a very strong horse, but it has an issue that i think is the downside. The issue is the transmittion, it is VERY hard to get into gear. how could i fix this and make it easier shifting, like my 314?
  3. When going thru my front end I decided to replace the front wheel bearings, the real common 1 3/8" x 3/4". After getting a set of four off ebay they came with the grease seals on both the outside and inside. Question is should I remove the seals on the backside and continue to grease thru the zerk or let them ride as sealed bearings? My inclination is to let them ride as sealed bearings.
  4. In a previous thread, several folks asked me how I painted my rims with tires already mounted. I recently did another set, so I illustrated the process as I did it. Typically, I like to paint the rims after they are mounted anyways, because inevitably when you have tires mounted on painted rims you’ll always scratch or nick them somewhere. I like to get the rims all cleaned up, blasted and primed, then mount my tires. Here’s my process: 1) Rims were sandblasted and primed with self-etching primer. Tires and tubes were mounted. Everything was wiped down with a pre-kleeno wax and grease remover prior to taping. 2) Using blue 3M tape, I go all the way around the rim slipping the tape between the rubber and rim occasionally tucking it tight with a very small standard screwdriver. 3) Then I create a wider tape ring a few inches out from the rim lip. 4) Slide the whole thing into a kitchen garbage bag. 5) Cut a hole in the bag revealing your tape ring below. 6) Tape the bag to your tape ring previously created on the tire. 7) For silver rims, I like Eastwood Silver Argent rally wheel paint and I use a Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear. http://www.eastwood.com/silver-argent-rally-wheel-paint-set.html 8) I wipe the rims down a few more times with a pre-kleeno wax and grease remover, blow them off with the gun, then shoot two coats of color and two coats of clear. I find that the Rust-Oleum clear holds a much better shine if you don’t let it set long between coats. As soon as it flashes, hit it with round 2. I do all four coats in about 20 minutes.
  5. OK......I'm aware of the few front end loader threads recently and through searches here and through Google i just thought id make a place here for my own hopeful plethora of info. Well through my friends father i will be acquiring a 603 or 633 some such series round hood for Free.99!! Anyways my parents LOVE to mulch the flower beds and i happen to hate it unless i can play with my tractors. I guess you can see where this is going. I have searched far and wide on hydraulics vs electric actuators, and have noticed for such porpoises of moving mulch, and maintenance each seem to be good candidates. as far as a front end loader i have found a REAR end loader. Now will this benefit over a FEL by reasoning of less wear of front components since its a smaller tractor, and i thinks from the way it looks could be smaller/easier to move off and on. As far as getting it into the trailer, i could see the FEL prevailing in this category. ow would a rear end loader be able to ascend to a height? it doesn't look good from these pictures but there are ramps i could just back it up onto the trailer. and dont worry about it tipping as we have a silverado or '48 Farmall Super A to keep it held down. I have these pictures to get the conversation started. (yes I know ones a Sears and ones a Cubby)
  6. Liltex

    B-80 Restoration

    Restoration of 1976 B-80 This Album is Dedicated to the complete restoration of my Father 1976 Wheel Horse B-80, It was recovered from a fiel sitting on it's side painter John Deere colors. I brought it home in the summer of 07 and have spent 7 years gathering all original part to restore it to its original showroom condition How am I doing.... I would like to hear all comment on this
  7. Is there a source which lists the original wheel color that came with a specific model? I have a 208-3, 310-8, 212-6, C-165, Command 8, and a B-111 ... most running, some not. Some have white wheels, some off-white, and the 310-8 has silver. The owners manuals don't specify, or the parts manuals ... maybe all models changed wheel color as the years progressed? Any inputs will be appreciated!
  8. I became a little curious when researching the PTO RPMs of older Wheel Horse, John Deere and Cub Cadets. I read that "Woods Equipment" fabricated the Wheel Horse D finishing mowers back in the 70's and maybe the 80's and these mowers were belt driven, and I'm guessing had large pulley that appeared to reduce the 2000 RPM to a more manageable/safe speed. Mike Duwe from other forum (weekendfreedommachines.com) discovered that John Deere and Cub Cadet also had REAR PTOs with 2000 RPMs similar to the D Series Wheel Horses. Because of this, is it possible the John Deere 260 Finishing Mower and the Cub Cadet L42 Model 349 would fit the D Series Wheel Horse? I'm not sure of the rotation direction, spline and diameter differences between Wheel Horse and John Deere are, but this would make finding a D Series finishing mower slightly easier. Woods Wheel Horse John Deere Cub Cadet Citations: http://www.weekendfreedommachines.com/discus/messages/335/232953.html?1205075077 http://www.woodsequipment.com/default.aspx Other Links: http://www.weekendfreedommachines.com/discus/messages/335/139036.html
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