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Found 100 results

  1. Hi folks, I'm new here, but I've been scouring this site and others for information on a 212-6 that I recently acquired. I managed to find and replace front axle for it. Otherwise, it seems to be in really good shape. One issue is that it doesn't seem to brake effectively. It goes just fine, but it doesn't stop well. (Found this out the hard way.) Finding information on how to adjust the brakes hasn't been easy. I did find the following site that has a neat little description on page 21 (page 25 in the PDF), but the pictures are pretty grainy, and my attempts to follow the directions haven't worked out so far. http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/Tractors/Tractor_1986_200-300-400_OM_810399R1.pdf I've attached a picture with a pointer to the adjusting nut. Turning it several turns to the left, however, doesn't seem to allow the wheel to turn freely as described in the manual. And, it seems like to get more braking power, I would want to turn the nut to the right anyway. Anyone have any experience adjusting the brakes on a 212? Your help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Ron
  2. I liked, but didn’t find an applicable thread, so I made a new post. We got a 69 Charger 10 last Friday. The brakes don’t really stop it, kinda slows it to an idle speed. Still too fast for the brakes to be engaged. FIL did some reading and it’s apparently the gears that stop the tractor, so now we’re looking at servicing and possible actually doing work on the trans. That’s fine, not a problem, figured we’d get into this eventually, so with the one known issue at hand, how would/have you gone about tackling this trans? Trying to get voices of experience that might be able to save us a headache or two lol. TIA!
  3. I have what I believe is a Wheelhorse transmission from a 1964 -1966. Is this worth selling via shipping? I'm not sure on the value or desire for these parts, as I don't know if it is worth it to post online or just sell local, as I imagine that the shipping cost will be quite high because of its weight. What do you all think?
  4. Just picked up a 312 8 Tractor, Shifter handle is very loose and it won't go into none of the gears. Any ideas? Fixes?
  5. Hello, I have what I believe is a 1989 312-8 wheel horse and need to purchase transaxle dipstick. I do not need the tube just the dipstick, however, if the dipstick comes with the tube that's fine also...
  6. SWAMPFOX

    Wanted 400 suburban transmission

    Wanted suburban 400 transmission
  7. Greetings everyone- After draining the old molasses out of my transmission, quickly flushing with diesel and refilling with 85-W140 my left rear axle and input shaft seal drip a little each day. Thanks to this forum I found the seals I need at Napa, but am a little nervous pulling off the input shaft pulley without damaging the pulley itself. Any advice/write-ups on this? This photo is as I bought the tractor. Am I missing a bolt and washer? Thanks for the help guys!
  8. I purchased what I was told by the seller, to be a "partially restored" 1975 C Series. I have it now for 3 seasons & have concluded that this restoration consisted of replacing a few bolts and repainting it and replacing some of the decals. The seller told me he "screwed up" on the Model Decals when he ordered them, & put the wrong one on it (C120), but did not tell me the correct one that should be on it, and he gave me a 1975 C Series Owners Manual with it. I am wondering if the Model Numbers correlate to the horsepower of the engines. If that is the case, I must have a C100, because mine has the Kohler 10 HP engine, which is labeled as a K241S. It has an 8 Speed Manual Transmission. After getting it home and using it, I put it in my shed & the next time I went to use it, I see the transmission/gearbox has leaked oil onto the shed floor, appears to be coming from the seam between the two halves of the rear-end. I also see a heavy black greasy film build up at both axle seals & also around the brake drum seal. I am now in doubt of the recommended oil for the rear end. Some of the online forums say that they had begun using transmission fluid as a replacement for older types of lubes, while others say 10-30 motor oil. I saw someplace which I can't seem to find again right now, that 85W-140 gear lube was what should be used. The oil level on the dipstick has not dropped to low levels, and appears to be motor oil, so after searching around and also checking the manual given to me with the tractor, I top off the level with 10W-30 as spec'd on page 5 of the manual(if this is indeed the right manual for my year and model). My problem now, is that last season, it suddenly seemed to get a bit sluggish & slow down as it gets warmer during use. I believe my sluggishness problem might be due to the leak in the box seam and possibly also the type of fluid/lube in the case of the transmission/gearbox. I had already tweaked the carb as best I could, changed the fuel filter, replaced the spark plug due to a hard starting condition and rough running, & it seems to be running fine right now except for a backfire when shutting it down. I have purchased a replacement carb for it that I have to put on now, & I am pretty sure I need to locate & change the points as well. Anyway I am hoping that someone can point me towards the right manuals, by placing all numbers I have been able to find on it here so I can hopefully find the right service/repair manuals (hopefully as free downloads someplace online) for the different systems. Tractor: Model: 103909 Serial Number: 47404 Engine: Model: K241S Specs: 46636D S/N: 6097616 Deck: 0542M505 All Numbers on Transmission/Gearbox Casting: A24 8163 or B163 ?(Cannot Read Clearly) 101761 or 1017G1 ?(Cannot Read Clearly) Any and all advice/info anyone can supply me with on this would be greatly appreciated! Also, any tips on good places to purchase reasonably priced parts would be good as well.
  9. Seacrestbf

    B 80

    Hello When we try to push the machine with out it running or in gear. The rear wheels are locking up. Is there a release valve? I have to push it from the storage area to the shop, the motor is rapping. Thank you
  10. 11"' x 16.5" poster is a copy of Sheet 1 of the original patent application for the RJ "POWER DRIVE MECHANISM" submitted by Cecil E. Pond, "INVENTOR". Filed on September 8, 1958. Quality copy on satin finish acid free heavy weight poster paper. Suitable for framing. Please message me to order. It's easier to keep track of everyone that way. I have a number of these available. $18 delivered to the Big Show. $23 shipped in the USA. PayPal is best at burleyfarm@yahoo.com. Contact me for overseas shipping options. UPDATED PHOTO TO SHOW DETAIL
  11. New used fork from ebay shifter assembly with spring and bearings. Tomorrow I will upload a picture of a tool we made to reinstall the fork keeping spring and ball in place.
  12. I finally got a chance to rebuild a transmission with a hi/low mechanism. This is a 6 speed #5060 transmission with the 10 pinion limited slip differential. Notice the brake shaft comes out the hole closest to the axle housing. The 8 speeds brake shaft comes out of the cluster shaft hole. I did a series of videos for this thread along with some pictures. The videos are split up between different phases of rebuilding...ie...the differential, the hi/low shift mechanism, the rest of the gears 1 & 2 (my batteries died in the camera). Most of the information will be in the videos...be advised that I did some struggling while doing these videos and I left them as is because it is not always easy. Hope this helps you guys. Just got the trans split. I use a 1" old wood chisel to start and then work the case apart with a pry bar. A couple shots after getting the case half off...trans is in neutral. The trans case works as a work bench for the differential...very cool Here is the reason the trans needed to be opened. An axle gear lost it's teeth and the pieces were lodged in the pinions. Finished and back together. The rest are the videos...1st on is the differential... Next 2 are dealing with the hi/low mechanism...1st one taking apart and the 2nd on putting together...be nice...it was my first time. Now, 2 videos putting the rest of the trans together...batteries died just before I finished the first video. Thanks for looking
  13. Hello all - I have a 1990 312-8 that recently started being a pain to shift, and eventually it stopped shifting into 1st and reverse and was hard to get into 2nd and 3rd. After looking at some posts on here I discovered the possibility that a loose shifter could cause this problem. My shifter definitely had a lot of play in it so I proceeded to pull the seat, rear plate and shift plate off the tractor so I could get to the area where the shifter goes into the transmission. I removed the shifter, reseated it and got the dog head screw lined up in the shifter donut and was hoping that would fix the issue, but after getting it all reassembled and trying to shift even into 2nd or 3rd the shifter, while not as sloppy, now just turns side to side - taking it back out and inspecting the shifter I have discovered that the pin which holds the donut in place on the shifter has sheered and the donut is now able to free spin on the shaft. Not too much of a problem as I plan on just pressing the old pin out and replacing, however I am concerned that the ball on the end of the shifter seems to be getting pretty flattened off on the left and right sides of the ball. I tried looking up a replacement on Toro and several other parts websites but I can't find one anywhere - I can get the boot, everyone has those, but no shifter. My question is, does anyone know where I might be able to find a new shifter and more important, is a little flattening on the ball anything to worry about? Also, with the shifter out, looking down the hole my transmission looks like it's full of mud! Definitely doesn't look like the gear oil I put in it - anyone know what could be causing the transmission gear oil to be sludging up like that?
  14. mikeystones

    312-8

    Has anyone tried to link two trans. Together
  15. Rkeller

    D 180

    Can anybody help with a bearing kit for asundstran hydro trans tag # 90. 1137 on a d180
  16. 1975 C-120 Automatic, 12hp Kohler. HARD SHIFTING PROBLEM Starting to shift hard especially going into reverse. Also, shifting is not 'smooth'. Tried adjusting 'Friction Collar' looser and snugger. Made it a little better but then things locked up - it did not want to go into reverse. Manually pushed wheel to get tractor to go into reverse. Could it be the: Cam on the neutral adjustment, Lubrication on the neutral adjustment, The transmission, The friction collar? Suggestions welcome.
  17. Hello, everyone and thank you in advance. I got bit by the bug a few months ago and bought a 1974 b 80 the rod broke, about a month after i bought it. So to keep my 4yr old mowing i picked up a c120 auto and i was going to change rear wheel seals pulled the hub to find the axle moves up and down and side to side about an 1/8" what's involved in put in new bearing and does it need to be done now or a winter project. Thanks PS sorry about the grammar
  18. Rkeller

    D 180

    Can any body help me find a bearing kit for asundstran hyro trans tag # 90 1137. Need intermediate shaft bearing that is mounted in case
  19. Hello again... So I just posted recently concerning a stuck clutch on my D-250. I pulled the deck, inspected everything, got frustrated, posted on Red Square and got some pretty solid advice. So under the guidance of Garry and Squonk, I was able to "unstick" the clutch by jolting the thing loose in top gear. It worked perfectly... Except... Now the thing is physically stuck in high range and the lever won't budge. It definitely worked just fine only moments before the clutch trick. Did I break something in the gear box? I did remove and reinstall the deck which I initially thought may have been installed wrong and could have been making physical contact with the linkage, but upon further inspection, doesn't appear to be although I admit I can't see it all. I was SO happy... Lol... It was working again and now this... Seems to be my kind of luck. Any tips or tricks for this issue? Thanks so much for your replies ahead of time. I have also apparently developed a completely unrelated fuel issue which I'll post separately on the engine forum. Thanks y'all... I really appreciate it. I DID manage to get the grass cut... I don't really like mowing in high range 1st gear but it was the only option... I guess some good came out of the situation. Jacob
  20. Hey guys and gals... Had something super weird happen. I went to start my D-250 (Renault Engine) and the clutch won't work. So, instead of mowing for my 4th of July cookout, I pulled the 60" deck out and climbed underneath. The clutch linkages are intact and the throw out lever was a little bit loose on the adjustment rod. I adjusted the slack out of the throw out lever and prayed... No change. I fear something is internally wrong with the clutch. The weird thing is that it worked fine when I last used it. How could something break sitting still? I'm frustrated and confused. I have a parts breakdown for the clutch assembly and I am dreading having to pull the whole motor to work on it. Any advice? Am I missing something? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Happy 4th everyone!
  21. For Sale working Hydro transmission and gearbox. From a 1969 Electro 12. Call or email for more details.
  22. Hey guys, I'm new to the forum (very thankful to have found it) and a fairly new Wheel Horse owner. I believe my tractor is an early 1960's E32 Lawn Ranger. I haven't been able to pin point the age or exact model yet. Here is the problem I am currently having. My barn find did not have an engine so I used a predator 212cc as a replacement. I have found a pretty good pulley for the engine, but seem to be having trouble finding the best length to utilize the clutch/brake function. I have moved the engine back a bit to allow clearance for the hood. I have two 1/2" v-belts that I am trying to work with, one is a 61" and the other is a 62". I have also read and recently learned that the belt cover must be on to make sure the belt doesn't spin off. However, I can't seem to get the rear transmission pulley to stop spinning when I engage the clutch pedal. The belt definitely seems loose enough when using the 62" since it will literally fall off when I engage the pedal all the way. It even seems a bit loose when only pressing half way down. Anyway, I have posted a few pics to show what I am talking about. Any help on proper belt tension would be greatly appreciated. Glad to be here!
  23. I'm new to this site, and have a basic question. I have a 1986 312A, with 865 hours on it on which the hydrostatic transmission fluid has never been changed. Is it necessary/recommended to change the fluid at this point, or not? What replacement fluid should I use? Is the NAPA 1410 the best filter to use? Thanks, Barry
  24. Hey everybody, I just picked up a 314-8 with around 800 hours on it. When trying to put it into low range from high, the lever wont budge. It almost feels stuck, I cant figure it out... Thanks In Advance
  25. I am currently towards the end of a 1276 restoration project, I just got everything back together and sent power to the transmission for the first time. Without the pump on and the gear in neutral, I can spin the axels by hand, one goes one way, the other, the other way, giving me indication that I don't have a differential problem. When I put power to it, everything appears to work as advertised, except when in gear I can stop the Axel from spinning with my hand, little to no resistance. I do have a bit of a rigging problem from worn linkage, but I can move the cam by hand to get it fully in gear. The tow gear in completely closed. Just flushed and filled with fluid. I have not changed the filter. Any idea on why there seems to be no power in the axels??
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