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Found 91 results

  1. I finally got a chance to rebuild a transmission with a hi/low mechanism. This is a 6 speed #5060 transmission with the 10 pinion limited slip differential. Notice the brake shaft comes out the hole closest to the axle housing. The 8 speeds brake shaft comes out of the cluster shaft hole. I did a series of videos for this thread along with some pictures. The videos are split up between different phases of rebuilding...ie...the differential, the hi/low shift mechanism, the rest of the gears 1 & 2 (my batteries died in the camera). Most of the information will be in the videos...be advised that I did some struggling while doing these videos and I left them as is because it is not always easy. Hope this helps you guys. Just got the trans split. I use a 1" old wood chisel to start and then work the case apart with a pry bar. A couple shots after getting the case half off...trans is in neutral. The trans case works as a work bench for the differential...very cool Here is the reason the trans needed to be opened. An axle gear lost it's teeth and the pieces were lodged in the pinions. Finished and back together. The rest are the videos...1st on is the differential... Next 2 are dealing with the hi/low mechanism...1st one taking apart and the 2nd on putting together...be nice...it was my first time. Now, 2 videos putting the rest of the trans together...batteries died just before I finished the first video. Thanks for looking
  2. Hello all - I have a 1990 312-8 that recently started being a pain to shift, and eventually it stopped shifting into 1st and reverse and was hard to get into 2nd and 3rd. After looking at some posts on here I discovered the possibility that a loose shifter could cause this problem. My shifter definitely had a lot of play in it so I proceeded to pull the seat, rear plate and shift plate off the tractor so I could get to the area where the shifter goes into the transmission. I removed the shifter, reseated it and got the dog head screw lined up in the shifter donut and was hoping that would fix the issue, but after getting it all reassembled and trying to shift even into 2nd or 3rd the shifter, while not as sloppy, now just turns side to side - taking it back out and inspecting the shifter I have discovered that the pin which holds the donut in place on the shifter has sheered and the donut is now able to free spin on the shaft. Not too much of a problem as I plan on just pressing the old pin out and replacing, however I am concerned that the ball on the end of the shifter seems to be getting pretty flattened off on the left and right sides of the ball. I tried looking up a replacement on Toro and several other parts websites but I can't find one anywhere - I can get the boot, everyone has those, but no shifter. My question is, does anyone know where I might be able to find a new shifter and more important, is a little flattening on the ball anything to worry about? Also, with the shifter out, looking down the hole my transmission looks like it's full of mud! Definitely doesn't look like the gear oil I put in it - anyone know what could be causing the transmission gear oil to be sludging up like that?
  3. 312-8

    Has anyone tried to link two trans. Together
  4. D 180

    Can anybody help with a bearing kit for asundstran hydro trans tag # 90. 1137 on a d180
  5. 1975 C-120 Automatic, 12hp Kohler. HARD SHIFTING PROBLEM Starting to shift hard especially going into reverse. Also, shifting is not 'smooth'. Tried adjusting 'Friction Collar' looser and snugger. Made it a little better but then things locked up - it did not want to go into reverse. Manually pushed wheel to get tractor to go into reverse. Could it be the: Cam on the neutral adjustment, Lubrication on the neutral adjustment, The transmission, The friction collar? Suggestions welcome.
  6. Hello, everyone and thank you in advance. I got bit by the bug a few months ago and bought a 1974 b 80 the rod broke, about a month after i bought it. So to keep my 4yr old mowing i picked up a c120 auto and i was going to change rear wheel seals pulled the hub to find the axle moves up and down and side to side about an 1/8" what's involved in put in new bearing and does it need to be done now or a winter project. Thanks PS sorry about the grammar
  7. D 180

    Can any body help me find a bearing kit for asundstran hyro trans tag # 90 1137. Need intermediate shaft bearing that is mounted in case
  8. Hello again... So I just posted recently concerning a stuck clutch on my D-250. I pulled the deck, inspected everything, got frustrated, posted on Red Square and got some pretty solid advice. So under the guidance of Garry and Squonk, I was able to "unstick" the clutch by jolting the thing loose in top gear. It worked perfectly... Except... Now the thing is physically stuck in high range and the lever won't budge. It definitely worked just fine only moments before the clutch trick. Did I break something in the gear box? I did remove and reinstall the deck which I initially thought may have been installed wrong and could have been making physical contact with the linkage, but upon further inspection, doesn't appear to be although I admit I can't see it all. I was SO happy... Lol... It was working again and now this... Seems to be my kind of luck. Any tips or tricks for this issue? Thanks so much for your replies ahead of time. I have also apparently developed a completely unrelated fuel issue which I'll post separately on the engine forum. Thanks y'all... I really appreciate it. I DID manage to get the grass cut... I don't really like mowing in high range 1st gear but it was the only option... I guess some good came out of the situation. Jacob
  9. Hey guys and gals... Had something super weird happen. I went to start my D-250 (Renault Engine) and the clutch won't work. So, instead of mowing for my 4th of July cookout, I pulled the 60" deck out and climbed underneath. The clutch linkages are intact and the throw out lever was a little bit loose on the adjustment rod. I adjusted the slack out of the throw out lever and prayed... No change. I fear something is internally wrong with the clutch. The weird thing is that it worked fine when I last used it. How could something break sitting still? I'm frustrated and confused. I have a parts breakdown for the clutch assembly and I am dreading having to pull the whole motor to work on it. Any advice? Am I missing something? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Happy 4th everyone!
  10. For Sale working Hydro transmission and gearbox. From a 1969 Electro 12. Call or email for more details.
  11. Hey guys, I'm new to the forum (very thankful to have found it) and a fairly new Wheel Horse owner. I believe my tractor is an early 1960's E32 Lawn Ranger. I haven't been able to pin point the age or exact model yet. Here is the problem I am currently having. My barn find did not have an engine so I used a predator 212cc as a replacement. I have found a pretty good pulley for the engine, but seem to be having trouble finding the best length to utilize the clutch/brake function. I have moved the engine back a bit to allow clearance for the hood. I have two 1/2" v-belts that I am trying to work with, one is a 61" and the other is a 62". I have also read and recently learned that the belt cover must be on to make sure the belt doesn't spin off. However, I can't seem to get the rear transmission pulley to stop spinning when I engage the clutch pedal. The belt definitely seems loose enough when using the 62" since it will literally fall off when I engage the pedal all the way. It even seems a bit loose when only pressing half way down. Anyway, I have posted a few pics to show what I am talking about. Any help on proper belt tension would be greatly appreciated. Glad to be here!
  12. I'm new to this site, and have a basic question. I have a 1986 312A, with 865 hours on it on which the hydrostatic transmission fluid has never been changed. Is it necessary/recommended to change the fluid at this point, or not? What replacement fluid should I use? Is the NAPA 1410 the best filter to use? Thanks, Barry
  13. Hey everybody, I just picked up a 314-8 with around 800 hours on it. When trying to put it into low range from high, the lever wont budge. It almost feels stuck, I cant figure it out... Thanks In Advance
  14. I am currently towards the end of a 1276 restoration project, I just got everything back together and sent power to the transmission for the first time. Without the pump on and the gear in neutral, I can spin the axels by hand, one goes one way, the other, the other way, giving me indication that I don't have a differential problem. When I put power to it, everything appears to work as advertised, except when in gear I can stop the Axel from spinning with my hand, little to no resistance. I do have a bit of a rigging problem from worn linkage, but I can move the cam by hand to get it fully in gear. The tow gear in completely closed. Just flushed and filled with fluid. I have not changed the filter. Any idea on why there seems to be no power in the axels??
  15. Hey guys, what rear ends were the higher geared ones? We have one 520 that had a rear end replaced and it is a lot faster than the other. As far as I have been informed, 520hc's and 417's. Where there any others? How many teeth are there on the high speed gears versus the regular gears? Thanks!
  16. Suggestions on removing key from axle? The Hub came off no problem.
  17. 1995 520H

    I just purchased my first wheel horse tractor. It is a 1995 520H serial #5901574 and I have a few questions to ask. When I received the tractor the idler pulley on the main drive belt was shot so I replaced it. I notice that the drive belt is still doing a lot of jumping and may be stretched. The parts diagram shows the belt but the diagram doesn't seem to be the same as my model. It lists the drive belt as 5/8" x 83". Can anyone tell me if this is correct? Also the hydro transmission seems to be slightly engaged when in neutral and it will move forward when parked. If I put the brake on it sounds like the transmission is trying to move. Any adjustment for this? I am using this to mow about 3 acres of grass that has a lot of obstacles and I am wonder if the hydro tranny will take a lot of forward and reverse motion? I did tighten the bolt a little on the tranny shift linkage to stop the shift lever from dropping down when it was in motion.
  18. Hi guys! Still new here and not too good at navigsting through the site so i apologize if this has been covered before. I got this '75 c100 last winter for plowing the drive and have found a use for it in clearing my woods the last two months, which after its last use of pulling one tree around and haulin my little cart with tools out there, it seems to be leakin purdy good on the pulley on the left side of the transmission. Always a drip or two here n there, enough to say "yup, its a '75". But i come out today and find an area about a foot in size with oil under her. The case doesnt seem to be craked anywhere where i can see. Seems as though its seeping through the shaft this pulley is on. Is this a common thing? If its fixable, what parts do i need n where do i get them from? Any and all help is much appreciated!

    My intent here is to show lots of pictures so if anyone is rebuilding one of these or some of the others...you can do it without fear and I am adding some very helpful information. I had a post that lead up to this that has some information in it also, and while it overlaps, I wanted to do the rebuild separate. This post is meant to be used with the manual...the pictures help explain better then the pictures in the manual. Now I want to share what I learned as I rebuild this...I realize that some have done this, but this was my first time (transmission virgin) and I know I am not the last one to do this. If I can help or make this easier, then I have given back a little from all the help I have received from this site. Here are a few shots of what this looked like whee I opened the trans. Notice the 1/4" ball bearings on some of the gears. Those are from the #1533 bearings. This is a shot showing gear placement in the left side of the case. Notice the bevel of the reverse gear (front right). The left side is the shallow side of the transmission halves. These are the parts of the differential..the 2 casings on the outside, the 2 axles, the differential bull gear, the 4 posts and the pinions that go on these, and the bolts and nuts that hold it all together. I can't get enough looks at the gears before I tear it apart...next 2 pictures are for future reference. I found a good assortment of 3/8 and 1/2 sockets that made fair to good arbors for pounding out and tapping in most of the bearings and seals. These are the bearings and seals you need to do the R&R. You can get all the stuff from Toro or the site that Jason gave in the related post. One note...the Toro#1303 seal is discontinued. This is called a cup seal, because it has a cup shape. I replaced it with a kind of match (SKF #7410) same dimensions but more like a regular oil seal...it will work. This place used to be Berry Bearings in Elgin...now it is "Motion Industries"...the web site MotionMRO.com...they can match up any bearing or seal. Excellent info. and prices were very good. Shot of the bearings and seals removed, cleaned and sanded. Used Valspar Restoration series...I like the red match with my 702 and I like the hardness of the paint. Showing bearings and seals installed...notice (arbors on right). Putting differential back together...show axle in place with bolts in place. Added pinion posts and in 2nd picture...added pinions (alternating one up and one down). Added Bull Gear Added other axle and case and bolted together. At this point, make sure you can rotate the axles...they should rotate in opposite directions. Placing input shaft and gear (one piece) and the reverse idler shaft. Installed the 2nd & high shift rail and fork. (one on the left). Also installed both ball bearings, spring and stop pin, and low & reverse shift rail. The 2 sliding gears were then placed...the grooves face each other and the smaller gear goes on the bottom. I had a pencil magnet that I used to hold the 2nd ball bearing, while I took an Allen wrench through the hole to hold the bearing out of the way while I placed the low and reverse shift rail. the picture also shows the reverse idler and brake shaft in place. Another view showing forks and gears. Showing reverse idler (bevel up...I hope) in front. Splined shaft installed through the shift fork sliding gears. The cluster gear is then installed( 2 wood-ruff keys here...one on each end). Also, the differential and axles are placed (note the nuts are facing up). different angle yet one more angle Put together..old 5 gal wood create works great as a work bench (all shafts fit through and keep work level). Used a hard rubber hammer to tap halves together. No leaks when I filled with 90wt gear oil...approx 1 1/2 qts. Checked shifting and started to put the 702 back together today. A final picture or a video tomorrow (hope). I want to thank Rickv1957 Fan, MikeRJ, Buckrancher,Suburban550,IndyWH Smokin'Joe, the Helmett and Charlie for all their help and advice...a huge thank you guys.
  20. Would someone be able to measure the length of or even take a picture of the last couple inches of 416-8 uni-drive transmission dipstick? I jacked and drained tranny, just a little more than 3 qts, flushed with diesel, and serviced with 2 qts of Lucas 80W-90. Nothing on the stick. The stick ends right after the PN 106447, may be broken off perfectly smooth, and has always been that way since I bought 5-6 years ago. I noticed it but didn't think much about it due to an inch of fluid being on the stick when you checked the level, the extra 1+ qt of oil. Assumed the top of PN on stick must be full line. The oil I drained looked fine, just a little fine metal flake from the oops's over the years from accidental grind and go's (or remains of the missing dipstick?). No appearance of water contamination. I changed the fluid due to a low whine I can't say I noticed over the years or at least it sounds a little louder if was present before. No change in whine after oil change either. Just over 450hrs on it so maybe just "broken-in" whine? Bought with 225 hrs on it from a local old timer Cub Cadet restorer who had changed all the fluids before selling it for a friend. Just to note, the whine has a bit of a hydro tranny noise to it. The higher the range, gear, and speed the louder it is, no whine in neutral. Not too concerned about the whine, just have nothing to compare to. The other 416 is an H to push around the two-stage blower, which I bought together this March. Can't say I'm a huge fan of the hydro compared to the -8 though. Love the -8, hydro is a bit sketchy to operate and drinks gas. May need to buy the pedal control kit I see posted here. Thanks up front for any help guys. Maybe my first post but you all have already helped me quite a bit with your experience and knowledge reading the old posts over the years. Great site.
  21. I would like to change the oil in my transmission but have read some people using 40 weight and others 90. What's the recommend oil for a 4 speed Uni-Drive Transmission? Thank you!
  22. GT14 update

    changed the rear end fluid and filter on the GT 14, painted the rear rims, and outlined the Kohler & usa and cleaned up the seat, it had some over spray from something.
  23. Hi all... Looking for some guidance here. My 308-8 tractor had the low range shifter handle cut and it was rotated 180 deg. So it would face towards the back. The obvious sign is someone did this on purpose because there was probably something wrong. Well... I'm the the type of person who can let that be. I had to start messing with it. So I got a replacement shifter arm and shift from high to low a few times. Every thing seemed to be operating fine. Then today I went to mow in high range and out of nowhere it slipped into low range and I can't seem to get it back into high. The lever moves all the way over to right but just doesn't seem to engage. Has this happened to anyone before? Any idea what the issue may be?
  24. Got my transmission fixed last year in time for winter and have been mowing all spring/summer no problem until tonight. I got a Raider 12 with a 5060 transmission and when I was mowing the lawn today I went to shift the tractor from 1st to 2nd gear and nothing happened. I didn't hear a grind or anything, but put the tractor back in neutral, shut off the mowing deck and tried going into to gear. The tractor wouldn't move at all. I can still roll the tractor in neutral but shifting the transmission in gear with the tractor off does not have the tractor brake. I already think I know what the answer is, but is there anyway I did not strip a gear in the transmission and not have to drop the transmission to find and replace the gear that probably stripped? Thanks for help.
  25. I blew a drive belt on my 1983 C-145 hydro and the belt measured 82". I looked up the correct belt and have seen many different sizes called out. Is 5/8" x 81" correct? Is 5/8" x 81.5" correct? or Is 5/8" x 82" correct? I also saw 98" using the same wheelhorse number???? Any help would be appreciated, Thanks!