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John A

308-8 Drive Belt Slipping

By John A, in Transmissions and transaxles

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John A    8

John A
Posted

The clutch spring  on my 308-8 broke, so the tractor stopped dead.   It was easy to see the broken red spring,  after I removed the right rear wheel.   I  was able to order a replacement spring which I replaced today.  Problem now there is too much slack on the drive belt.  The tractor will move, but barely as if the drive belt is not tight and slipping.  It seems that the clutch pulley isn't applying enough force against the belt.  I have  tried adjusting the clutch rod but that doesn't seem to make a difference.  It only changes the position of the clutch pedal .  I don't see any other adjustment option to put more pressure on the drive belt.  The belt is old, but seems acceptable.  Before the clutch spring, broke, the tractor would jump out in any gear.  No slippage. 

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gwest_ca-(File Mod)    11,019

gwest_ca
Posted

The clutch spring is behind the left rear wheel. Left and right is always from the operator's position in the seat.

 

If you removed the right rear wheel and belt guard did you see what looks like a small shock between the idler pulley arm and chassis? They will fail and restrict movement of the linkage.

 

Garry

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roadapples    6,983

roadapples
Posted

Some belt guards have a ridge for the belt to ride on. The guard has to be on properly for the belt to work...

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John A    8

John A
Posted
14 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

The clutch spring is behind the left rear wheel. Left and right is always from the operator's position in the seat.

 

If you removed the right rear wheel and belt guard did you see what looks like a small shock between the idler pulley arm and chassis? They will fail and restrict movement of the linkage.

 

Garry

Thanks, I will pull off the panels to get a better view of the belt and pulleys. 

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John A    8

John A
Posted
12 hours ago, roadapples said:

Some belt guards have a ridge for the belt to ride on. The guard has to be on properly for the belt to work...

Thanks, I will take a look.   This seemed like a simple task to replace the spring. 

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John A    8

John A
Posted

I found the problem with the drive belt.   Apparently when the clutch spring broke.  The drive belt jumped to the left onto an inside pulley closer to the engine block.   This pulley is smaller in diameter.   So when the engine was running, the belt would turn but barely.   I could have seen this along side the engine if I had known where to look.   Since the belt moved  with the engine running I didn't suspect the problem being at the engine. 

There is a lot to remove to get a good look at how the belt and idler pulley exerts pressure on the belt.   Tractor is running and seems fine.   

I posted some pictures  maybe these would be useful for someone with a similar  problem.     Since I had removed the seat and back fender, it was easy to see the faint serial  numbers.   Maybe someone, can tell me the  year of my  Wheel Horse 308-8   Numbers  at  seat:     2108K801      L5950 

 Thanks again. 

 

IMG_1901.JPG

IMG_1897.JPG

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gwest_ca-(File Mod)    11,019

gwest_ca
Posted

Just noticed your clutch return spring is not in the location it was intended to be at the rear. Above the square cast iron axle housing is a web to the side of the case. They drilled a hole in it for the spring. Borrowed the photo.

 

And it looks like your mower drive belt has rolled over in the pto pulley. They don't last long like that and often will never run right again. They were not designed to bend that way.

Looks like a 37" deck that uses the six-sided belt so I could be wrong. There is a good illustration in a service bulletin that explains how the belt is routed. Handy to have with you when installing the belt.

 

Should replace the shifter boot also to keep contaminants out of the transmission.

 

Garry

Clutch spring SS.jpg

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John A    8

John A
Posted

Thanks to Gary and Wheel Horse Master for your comment and help.    The maintenance  bulletins should be a big help. 

 

FYI,   I re-positioned the  clutch spring.  The corrected location looks much better.   I will take a look at the deck drive belt/  PTO  connection.

With the information available, I do intend to replace worn parts.   The engine  still runs good so the machine is worth  some maintenance beside just an oil change and grease. 

 

I have been trying to get the correct part number for the drive belt.  The belt on the tractor may be original.  I need a new ignition switch and the  gear shiftier boot is trash.  The parking brake won't hold.  If I adjust the adjustment rod, then the teeth in the handle won't  engage and hold.   Can the brake lining be replaced.   That seems like a simple task. 

Any suggestion?

John A

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