Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I've killed a LOT of rust in my time from semi tankers to tiny tools with big sandblasters, electricity, abrasives and chemicals.  One of my fondest is Evaporust but I just saw a video that really impressed me:

http://drxcleaner.com/videos/

 

Anyone seen or perhaps used it? 

And if you haven't tried Evaporust perhaps you should. 

  • Like 5
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Interesting. I wonder how it affects paint adhesion on the long term ?

 

Sarge

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I'm impressed....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I have found that Evaporust will remove light surface rust, but had a few old wrenches that soaked in it for ab week with no noticeable improvement.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Cider vinegar works pretty good too but it's not instant results.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
8 hours ago, Sarge said:

Interesting. I wonder how it affects paint adhesion on the long term ?

 

Sarge

They have a metal prep "sealer" as well.  I'd think it would then be primer ready. 

4 hours ago, wallfish said:

Cider vinegar works pretty good too but it's not instant results.

 

Vinegar does work! And real good!  And cheaply! But for me only if it's soaked for days. 

7 hours ago, 953 nut said:

I have found that Evaporust will remove light surface rust, but had a few old wrenches that soaked in it for ab week with no noticeable improvement.

It's worked on every thing I've tried but seems to get consumed, used up, rather quickly. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
2 minutes ago, DennisThornton said:

metal prep "sealer" as well.  I'd think it would then be primer ready.

Dennis, anything that is between metal and primer WILL fail,     in my opinion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I'm impressed. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
12 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Dennis, anything that is between metal and primer WILL fail,     in my opinion.

I used metal prep prior to priming.  All auto manufacturers do.  Mostly phosphoric acid. Etches, removes any flash rust and inhibits rust until it is primed. 

Edited by DennisThornton

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

While it's not always feasible, I do prefer blasting parts to give a proper surface finish for "bite". There are times I can see pores that are not fully cleaned - I just go to a more aggressive grit but get repaid by having to use a heavier builder/primer on the base. Epoxy primers are the way to go , but pricey stuff but it does better seal up the metal and stops migration of rust pores. Now, if a guy did the blasting first, then used something of this nature to remove the rust - and used epoxy primers - I'd suspect that would be ideal . Big difference when you are dealing with old, porous metal versus new steel - you have to take the extra steps to seal up and fill any damage from time and corrosion to the metal . Otherwise, you'll regret it later as it will come back.

 

Sarge

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Impressed. May try some, weather permitting. It's 12 degrees out today. Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.  :handgestures-thumbupright:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I just ordered a gallon --- vids were impressive!

 

I too like to use 'sand' blasting for the reasons like Sarge mentioned, but what causes me the most time/aggravation is the small parts - nuts, bolts clips, etc. When I really need to re-use these items I go ahead and use the cabinet, but its time consuming (and hard on gloves!) - so I'm hoping this DRZ will help with this part of the restoring.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

If you're blasting hardware, get a screen tool for holding/blasting small parts - I've made a few of my own out of perforated metal and it really helps to save the gloves. I've been using the Scat brand replacement gloves - they last quite awhile but it all depends on what media you're using.

http://www.tptools.com/The-Original-Skat-Blast-Bolt-Basket,252.html?b=d*8033

 

http://www.skatblast.com/cabinet-gloves.html

 

 

Sarge

  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
1 hour ago, Sarge said:

If you're blasting hardware, get a screen tool for holding/blasting small parts

 

Yeah, I had also made a couple - but I was recently poking around wally world and spotted a fine mesh office paper holder - like in/out papers - about 12x18ish and that is really the best so far.

  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
10 hours ago, pacer said:

I just ordered a gallon --- vids were impressive!

 

I too like to use 'sand' blasting for the reasons like Sarge mentioned, but what causes me the most time/aggravation is the small parts - nuts, bolts clips, etc. When I really need to re-use these items I go ahead and use the cabinet, but its time consuming (and hard on gloves!) - so I'm hoping this DRZ will help with this part of the restoring.

Of course you will share your results here! It sure looks like it out performs Evaporust. 

9 hours ago, classicdmax said:

I’ve used white vinegar/salt mixture with good results

Vinegar alone works well.  Perhaps it's the most overlooked under appreciated rust remover.  But I've only used it for soaking, like Evaporust.  This other stuff we at seems to work well by just spraying.  That's new to me! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

That stuff is pretty different - I may pick up some just to de-rust larger pieces of steel when fabricating/welding stuff, would work great for that. I do like that it doesn't attack paints - but wonder if it may remove the gloss if left on too long. There are various methods used by folks to remove surface rusting on painted areas like old cars - some even use household chemicals with some interesting results. For preserving patina - might be interesting if you don't want to paint an original machine, just give it a clear coat or whatever.

Thanks for the heads up - I'm always interested in new products to solve common issues.

 

Sarge

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By JHorseman
      Hey all, 
      i recently picked up a Raider 8 and and Charger 12 to add to my small but growing collection. Both need restored including paint and I have never had much painting experience when it comes to auto paint. Can someone give me some helpful tips on prep , like if i need to strip it to bare metal or not and what colors to use? As well as how to mix the paint with hardener and clear coat. 
      Thank you in advance! 


    • By elliot ness
      Picked up an old rusted D blade, every moving part was stuck, but after 2 days of heat and PB blast, well here it is. nite mirror over. and of course Nugget our garage cat .





    • By DennisThornton
      http://strongarmbrand.com/

      I've used, liked and recommended "Fluid Film" and TC-11 but never tried StrongArm.  Kind of pricey but if it works like this:
      Here's Before and After with 35 year old 

        and Restored by a USA fluid User in Daytona 

      Anybody used it?  Or anything similar that you like?

      Thank!
    • By WH 312-8 Fan
      So, I got the transmission gutted. This is my first gear box of any kind that I have cracked open. So my rookie eyes tell me that any rust of any sort in there probably isn't good?

      I have access to a parts washer at work. I was going to run the transmission casings through once or twice. My main question is, should I press all the bearings out before I run it through? Can I trust a good thorough drying and oiling afterward to keep the needle bearings intact? I'll also have to scrape it out by hand I suppose. Have any of you seen anything like this? worse? Am I over reacting and I should just throw 'er back together?

      See that attached photos for a bit more clarity. 

      Second thing, I don't have the detent assembly out yet so my shift fork rails are still installed. I just popped out the roll pins to get the forks and their gears out. I posted a picture of the 1/4" press in cap on the outside face of the transmission. How the devil do you get that thing out? I imagine you guys have some creative ways to do it? I'll PM Mike in OH as well.

      Thanks for any help!





    • By jay1
      I just noticed that my b80 (1975) deck is rusting out.  Is there a replacement deck that fits the B80.  Tractor is in great shape--had the engine replace several years ago.
×