Summary: Solid mounts a year ago were very nice. Removed balance gears last December. Unacceptable. Installed eBay originals in good condition. I can ride it again at full throttle AND keep my fillings.
Long story (I have the day off):
A thread inspired me last December to look and see if my balance gears were doing well and the rear one was a wobbler. Removed them. She was burning too much oil - original rebuild was just a stone hone and power was not as it should be - it took months to get it bored .020. Hard to find in GA. Installed everything and started her up. Solid mounts USED to be great! That old off-idle vibration that shook the hood was gone thanks to those mounts. A little more vibration was OK. After the removal of the balance gears - NOT! The thing makes my butt numb and I can't mow at higher than about 2500 RPM. The hood vibrates just too much.
Decided to shop Flea Bay for some used, but OK, mounts. Toro prices are . . . the usual Toro prices. Mine were shot and tossed in the bin. Easily installed, right?
I thought in my ignorance that I could just remove a solid mount one at a time and pop-in the originals. Heck, the mount rubber has to be pressed in! Who knew? My old ones weren't like this at the restoration years ago.
Delayed while I figured how to pull the engine on my own. I used to just throw it up on the bench but I've grown more cautious. No buds around in the AM for assistance. Tied some 10 gauge wire around a 2x3. Put one end on the table saw and lifting was easy. Still have to lift the weight but no bending and it was going on the floor. Dead lift at knee level. Pulled the 2x3 across the table to extend the engine to the side of the tractor and let her down slowly.
Engine bay still pretty clean and the engine oil was due for its 1 hour drop after the rebuild anyway. Looked fine.
How to get those mounts in? Tried a C clamp and a socket as a spacer - too clumsy. Greased them up nicely and got longer bolts - tightening them a bit at a time and nudging the mounts into the hole with a blunt object. Turned out not to be a bother!
I've learned not to throw things away. It always seems that you need something the day after it's in the garbage truck. I still had the grounding lead and the large mount washers.
The wife assisted in the re-installation. Kinda' freaked her out. Back in place, and I got to clean the lower engine area from that minor oil leak around the fuel pump. Attracted grass clippings like a magnet.
A few bulb squeezes to start her up and, glorious! No more teeth chattering and I can take her up to 3600 if I like - sounds wonderful and she tore through the deep, deep crab grass. Don't discount those mounts. Sure, that off idle vibration is back and stronger than before. Nothing like a fresh bore for power. Something to spend time on tomorrow.
Now, what to do with these?
So gang, it's Christmas time and my company has extended its forced vacation to two weeks, sucking 7 days of FTO from me. I've got all kinds of things to do for the wifey-poo but what the heck can I do for me?
I've got two K301s so may as well get out the surgical tools and do a b-gearectomy. The C-125 goes first. Restored that back in '17 and so she's got maybe 75 hours on her. It'll be rather painless and the youngster is visiting so can assist in getting that b-itch up onto the bench. She's already been moved to the garage and the old Kawi and its carb parts moved back to the shed while I search for tiny o-rings. Wish me luck and pics to come. Oh, there is no rattle BUT she's always had a minor knock I chalk-up to excessive end play (didn't measure it back then 'cause I'm bad but, dang!, will now).
I put together a replacement for the missing clutch handle today. I like it so much I'm going to make one for my C-175 also!
Now I need to figure out how come it's not staying DISengaged. It EASILY jumps off the detent at the slightest touch. It appears to be a new bracket / lever, judging from the paint on it, but I have not investigated further yet. Wonder if anyone has run into this and solved it?
What is the correct routing for the throttle cable? This just CAN'T be correct! It's right on the cooling fins of the engine, it's done melted the skin off the cable! Maybe it's a replacement cable and simply too short?
If someone could post a pic of the correct routing it would be much appreciated!
While looking that over I noticed some oil 'weepage' at the front of the engine. To me it appears to be concentrated right under the fuel pump. I presume there's a gasket there that may need to be refreshed?
The only other suspect is the valve cover but and that appears to be a little weepy too, but more so the fuel pump.
What say you K301 gurus?
Morning - Looking for a carb. There are plenty of carbs on the 'net, but 99% do not fit because of the choke configuration.
Background info: Engine - K321S, 14 Horse Kohler.
Choke control cable is routed to come from BELOW the carb. To close the choke, pull on the choke knob, the choke shaft rotates counter clockwise, and the finger tab sits at the 10 o'clock position.
To open the choke, push on the choke knob, the choke shaft rotates clockwise, and the tab sits at the 1 o'clock position.
Where can I get his carb? Thanks in advance.
By 67 WH 877
When I purchased my WH (67 T877) it had the incorrect oil bath filter on it (it bent the front of the grill out) I took it off and placed a regular filter using just the oil bath cover. My question is...is it ok to run these Kohlers without the oil bath filters? I know they are better filters, but Im curious if the modern filters are sufficient.