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Jeff-C175

More C-125 / K301 questions with photos...

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Jeff-C175

I put together a replacement for the missing clutch handle today.  I like it so much I'm going to make one for my C-175 also!

 

Now I need to figure out how come it's not staying DISengaged.  It EASILY jumps off the detent at the slightest touch.  It appears to be a new bracket / lever, judging from the paint on it, but I have not investigated further yet.  Wonder if anyone has run into this and solved it?

 

image.png.baea87650fc6021e1d3916d7ceb85415.png

 

What is the correct routing for the throttle cable?  This just CAN'T be correct!  It's right on the cooling fins of the engine, it's done melted the skin off the cable!  Maybe it's a replacement cable and simply too short?

If someone could post a pic of the correct routing it would be much appreciated!

 

image.png.7b272459365194aaa33286b646bfa4c9.png

 

While looking that over I noticed some oil 'weepage' at the front of the engine.  To me it appears to be concentrated right under the fuel pump.  I presume there's a gasket there that may need to be refreshed?

 

image.png.92a6add2c7eedb24de0a1a1f4375efad.png

 

image.png.d5608fd90c55a321ae4a00e417add542.png

 

The only other suspect is the valve cover but and that appears to be a little weepy too, but  more so the fuel pump. 

 

image.png.0e1236d45581ee95240cf878e16ad1a5.png

 

What say you K301 gurus?

 

 

 

 

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Jeff-C175

I put together a replacement for the missing clutch handle today.  I like it so much I'm going to make one for my C-175 also!

 

Now I need to figure out how come it's not staying DISengaged.  It EASILY jumps off the detent at the slightest touch.  It appears to be a new bracket / lever, judging from the paint on it, but I have not investigated further yet.  Wonder if anyone has run into this and solved it?

 

image.png.baea87650fc6021e1d3916d7ceb85415.png

 

What is the correct routing for the throttle cable?  This just CAN'T be correct!  It's right on the cooling fins of the engine, it's done melted the skin off the cable!  Maybe it's a replacement cable and simply too short?

If someone could post a pic of the correct routing it would be much appreciated!

 

image.png.7b272459365194aaa33286b646bfa4c9.png

 

While looking that over I noticed some oil 'weepage' at the front of the engine.  To me it appears to be concentrated right under the fuel pump.  I presume there's a gasket there that may need to be refreshed?

 

image.png.92a6add2c7eedb24de0a1a1f4375efad.png

 

image.png.d5608fd90c55a321ae4a00e417add542.png

 

The only other suspect is the valve cover but and that appears to be a little weepy too, but  more so the fuel pump. 

 

image.png.0e1236d45581ee95240cf878e16ad1a5.png

 

What say you K301 gurus?

 

 

 

 

Edited by Jeff-C175
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rjg854

That seepage, does it feel oily or just wet? Does it smell like oil or gas?

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Snoopy11
1 minute ago, Jeff-C175 said:

I presume there's a gasket there that may need to be refreshed?

:text-yeahthat:

 

 

Google... KOH 25-041-10

 

 

Don

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23 Reo

My 1981 C-125 clutch handle would not stay disengaged either. I never tried to fix as I thought it was just worn out. It was my first Wheel Horse.

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Jeff-C175
5 minutes ago, rjg854 said:

That seepage, does it feel oily or just wet? Does it smell like oil or gas?

 

Ya know what?  I didn't actually stick my fanger in it !  I'll do that later, and maybe give it a taste too.

 

But, I don't believe it's gas... I would have smelt that being that I've been working up close the past few days.  Almost certain it's Earl.

 

Now that ya got me thinkin' about it though, aren't these the fuel pumps that can dump gasoline into the crankcase if the diaphragm takes a dump?

 

"I'll fix your flat tire Merle,

don't ya get your sweet country pickin' fangers all covered in Earl..."

 

Edited by Jeff-C175
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Snoopy11

And yes, I knew that part number off the top of my head... :laughing-rolling:

 

Don

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Jeff-C175
4 minutes ago, 23 Reo said:

My 1981 C-125 clutch handle would not stay disengaged either. I never tried to fix as I thought it was just worn out. It was my first Wheel Horse.

 

It can be especially exciting if you're not in the seat and the motion lever is in FORWARD, and the machine lurches toward your wife's vintage Monte Carlo!

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rjg854
3 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

Now that ya got me thinkin' about it though, aren't these the fuel pumps that can dump gasoline into the crankcase if the diaphragm takes a dump?

 

 

 

Yeap

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Maxwell-8
16 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

image.png.baea87650fc6021e1d3916d7ceb85415.png

That looks killer.

 

Your problem would seem to be a worn backet? wrong spring angle?.

 

Since my new belt is not yet stretched. I have the opposed problem where the disengage is jumping on, and the handle gets hung up in the up position

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sparkie333

That looks like where my cable is at----I don't know the part #:eusa-think::laughing-rofl:

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Snoopy11
1 minute ago, sparkie333 said:

I don't know the part #:eusa-think::laughing-rofl:

:hilarious:

 

Neither do I... :laughing-rolling:

 

Don

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Maxwell-8
22 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said:

image.png.92a6add2c7eedb24de0a1a1f4375efad.png

Thats How my M12 looks currently. fuelpump is leaking...

DSC_0599.JPG.d798fe6ab7da6ff081471e13c87930ec.JPG

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sparkie333

Now that made me laugh ----Good to be able to laugh once in a while--- 

I need to get used to it my sister called me today and wished me a belated 71th as of yesterday--:USA::snooty::text-offtopic:

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Snoopy11
2 minutes ago, sparkie333 said:

71th as of yesterday

Let me be the second!

 

Happy Birthday buddy! :lol:

 

Don

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sparkie333
7 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said:

Let me be the second!

 

Happy Birthday buddy! :lol:

 

Don

 

Thanks -----and to all a ----Happy Thanksgiving--- And I'm unanimous in this.....

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Jeff-C175

Changed the transmission oil and filter this evening.  It was really black and stunk pretty bad.

Ran a magnet through the drain pan, only a few tiny tiny little chips of metal, so trans is probably OK.

I'll run it for a while and change it again before it's due date.

 

Anyone know if this is a date code on the old filter?

 

image.png.a76a47ec9be18db5e1fffe37b35f3d01.png

 

First week of 2006?  If it is, I believe it.  But then, I've got underwear older than that!  :omg:

Also, the fender pan had been sprayed with rubberized bed liner and I just didn't care for it so I stripped that all off.  Heat gun and a scraper and it came right off.  Quite a bit of rust under the bedliner.  Tomorrow I'll clean up the metal and try to get it painted before dinner.

 

image.png.7ee1c7d2de761c0463d2434b533e6d21.png

 

 

@sparkie333 Happy Birthday!

 

And to everyone, HAPPY THANKSGIVING!

 

Edited by Jeff-C175
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Tuneup

My 125's replacement was off a 520H so it's for an auto. You did better - clearly a manual's pan. Sadly, once they went to the foil labels, we can't even make an educated guess. Looks like it will clean-up nicely. Just turned the turkey in the brine for a wonderful frying around 2PM. Happy Thanksgiving back at'cha!

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Jeff-C175
3 hours ago, Tuneup said:

manual's pan

 

How can you tell?

 

The one I got for my 175 decades ago is the exact shape of this one but there are some differences.  The one on the 175 has a square opening in the center under the seat. You can see this one goes not.  Also, there's an extra hole on the 175 for the seat safety switch, that hole is not in this one.  I'll have to use one of the other ones or drill a new one.

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peter lena

@Jeff-C175  noting that cabling issue , looks like it needs a total reroute , not in the book , another thing i noticed was the linkage spring pull  point, have two springs , mounted on all my  cable mountings , one pulling each way . along with a thorough lubrication verification , with super lube , makes for total cable ease , also a great spot to fuel check valve just under that carb . rerouted my cables long ago , and increase the cable mount areas , cable flop , amounts to  poor reaction . pete

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peter lena

@Jeff-C175  just some of the spring improvements i use, ever try to push a cable ? that's what a single spring will amount to , also mount perforated trim metal to related mount so i have an instant counter pull point . that gives linkage a smooth sweet spot of direction, lots of hours on this set up , this in not in the book . but it sure does work , pete 

 

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Jeff-C175
10 minutes ago, peter lena said:

total reroute

 

Looks like the routing is correct just that the cableis a little short, like maybe 2" or so.

 

Dorman has a 'universal' cable for not much $$ but it's not plastic sheathed which I would prefer.

 

But that part is low on the priority list because for now it's working fine.

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Snoopy11
16 hours ago, Maxwell-8 said:

Thats How my M12 looks currently. fuelpump is leaking...

 

17 hours ago, Snoopy11 said:

Google... KOH 25-041-10

 

 

Don

:text-yeahthat: @Maxwell-8!!! :P

 

Don

 

 

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peter lena

@Snoopy11  that should be a quick fix and possible upgrade , always have a new spare pump in my w/h stuff , along with heim joints , fuel filters , oil additives , lots of goodies , pete

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Jeff-C175
9 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

routing is correct just that the cableis a little short, like maybe 2" or so

 

I routed the cable on the OUTSIDE of the oil dipstick tube and clamped onto the very end of the cable, there was about an inch extra there.  I turned the clamp bracket a few degrees and put a couple layers of heat shrink over the cable.

 

Looks like this will do the trick, it's not laying on the cylinder head fins any longer.

 

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      NOTE: Notice the black showing through the white in the image below. Keep the first coat VERY, VERY light.
              Step 5: Apply Additional Coats of White Paint       ALLOW AT LEAST 4 HOURS BETWEEN COATS
      The application of paint continues as described in Step 4 until all of the painted areas are completely opaque and covered well. With each pass you will see the paint begin to almost "pool" on the top of the surface. As the paint dries it will flatten out to a nice even coat. The desired result is normally accomplished in just two to three coats of white paint.
      If you have blotchy or spotty coverage, you can use 800 grit wet-dry sand paper to lightly sand the white faces flat and even the paint coverage, then apply a final top coat after re-clean and dry the part. Make sure you allow the paint to dry thoroughly before sanding, and re-clean the part before applying the next coat of paint. Make sure all surfaces are evenly covered without brush strokes.
      The image below shows good coverage with very little over-painting or edge "rolling" after only two coats have been applied. Some letters and small details will need to be scraped and cleaned up prior to applying the last coat of white paint.
        Step 6: Finishing Up       The final step in the process is to clean up any mistakes or over-painting (edge-rolling). This step is normally done BEFORE the last coat of white paint is applied, so that any scrape marks or edges can be covered on the final pass. I normally use dental picks, tooth picks and/or the tip of an Exact-O Knife to clean any edges which were over-painted or where errant paint has been deposited between letter lines. Any over-paint on the panels surface can be covered up by spraying some of the VHT dye into a small cup and using a fine tipped artists brush to "dry-brush" the paint drip into oblivion.
      Once the final coat of white marker paint has dried for at least 24 hours, crumble-up a piece of regular kitchen paper towel and buff all of the white painted details. The paper towel material is just course enough to polish the top surfaces and burnish the edges of the white details, giving your panel a "finished" look. The polishing will also remove any specs of dust which may have settled on the surface during drying time. Your piece will now be remarkably similar to an original new part, and is ready for installation on your pride and joy machine.
                The completed piece is now "Show-Ready" and looks like the images below.           My thanks go out to Bob Maynard ("RMaynard"on the Red-Square forum) for the use of his B-80 dash panel in the creation of this How-To. Bob mentioned somewhere on the bulletin board that he was in the market for a NOS Dash Panel for his B-80 restoration. He also mentioned that he had an old usable one in-hand, but did not think it was show-quality enough for his restoration. I offered to restore his old panel for this tutorial, with the thought that he could perhaps use the result on his B-80 should he not find a suitable replacement.
      I hope you enjoy the tutorial, and Bob; Thank You for allowing me to use your panel for this example.
               

       
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