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Found 10 results

  1. JoeM

    Toro before Wheel Horse

    Seen this old Toro on CL the other day. Bad rear end $125. Seems pretty cool.
  2. For sale is my good condition tall chute snow thrower for the classic garden tractors(300,400,500) Sold my last classic and only have an Xi so it's time for this to go. Only trades I'm interested in would be for Xi attachments. Thanks,
  3. I was getting my riding mower ready for another season, changed the oil, filter, and I tilted the mower on it’s side to change the blades, just as I do year after year (my tractor is about 12 years old!) so once I was done and I got the mower back I found this piece laying on the ground. I have carefully examined the deck and I can’t seem to find where this would go. I tried checking the manual and a couple websites to see if I could identify the piece and no luck, anyone know where this goes? Thank you in advance!
  4. Got an email from RCPW (Replacement Commercial Parts Warehouse) of Macedonia, OH today announcing "Toro National Price Increase" effective 4/30/2018. I would assume that means any Wheel Horse parts Toro is still in possession of will follow suit into uncharted pricing territory.........and Toro is already extremely proud of the NOS Wheel Horse parts they are warehousing. I think I'll check a couple of old style mule drive parts I know Toro to be in possession of currently, and when the new pricing goes into effect, calculate the increase as a percentage. I will report my findings. Here's the actual text of the email announcement: "Due to rising costs, Toro has announced a national parts price increase. We wanted to inform our valued customers that the price change won't be effective until Monday, April 30, so any orders received this weekend will still be at the lower pricing. Most genuine Toro parts ship free inside the contiguous USA. Have a great weekend!" So, my assumption would be if Toro is going to bump parts pricing for Toro parts, they would probably be more than gleefully happy to do the same to their remaining Wheel Horse parts inventory.
  5. HandCannotErase

    Toro 212-5 no electrical power

    Hello everyone. The other day I picked up a 92 Toro 212-5 lawn tractor with no deck non-running for $30 (MN: 32-12O503). The guy I bought it from said the ignition was left on with the headlights on and killed the battery so it should just need a new one. I made attempts to jump start the tractor, it would get power (the headlights would turn on and clutch would click) but wouldn't crank. I tried jumping the solenoid terminals to see if the starter was good (and it does work, tho I couldn't attempt to start the tractor due to the position of the solenoid terminals I couldn't maintain a good connection). But since doing that I've lost all electrical power on the tractor; absolutely nothing turns on, even with a new battery. Did I short something out? Also when I got the tractor I noticed one of the fuses had melted into the fuse block, so I spliced in some new connectors and fuse (as well as replacing the 2 other fuses). I tested the key switch and thats working fine. All my connections are good. I'm really stumped, I'm not sure where to go from here. I'm really not the best at figuring out electrical issues. If it was a mechanical issue I'd have had it running the same day I got it.
  6. bmsgaffer

    Ode to an XI

    To anyone who thinks Toro ruined Wheel Horse: you have not tried an XI. Yesterday I mowed my grass for the first time with my XI with a fairly junky deck that has re-welds and braces that cause clogs. That is an awesome machine to mow with. The weight of it really gives you a smooth ride and it also allowed me to sidecut my hill (though I will be putting wheel weights on next time, just a BIT tippy). 25HP really allowed that 48" deck to chew through the tall wet grass and other than the clogging (caused by a poorly positioned brace welded in) it just took it all no problem. The electric clutch holds steady and doesn't allow slipping. I was so impressed. The power steering, while not precise, is effortless and you get used to it pretty fast. While it is almost a foot longer than my 520 was, it can turn in a much smaller radius. It was just a delight to drive. The pedals are positioned well and have good feedback. The extra bit of adjustments they added to the deck work nicely and the front anti-scalp wheels are so much better! Getting on and off with no tunnel is pretty awesome too. And on top of all of that, it still feels like a Wheel Horse. Anyone that has driven lots of brands of tractors will tell you you can feel the brand of tractor that you are driving, and this feels like a horse. Will I be selling off my classics? No. They all have their strong points but I feel that the XI is highly underrated by many. I have had this unit for less than a year and I don't feel like that attachments are too hard to come by. I own a NOS tiller for it now, a mower deck, plow, and snowblower. All pretty reasonably priced. Is it a perfect machine? NO. It is still a garden tractor and it is not a SCUT or zero turn. There are of course some things that some companies had that would have made it even better (and aesthetics, c'mon now!), but I can tell you that Toro took the heart of a wheel horse and in almost every way made it better. If the heavy duty, high quality garden tractor were still a feasible market today, I am certain that Wheel Horse would be a top competitor. So thank you Toro for keeping WH alive for all those years and thank you for the XI. That is an awesome machine. Ok. End of ramble... Now... Does anyone have a really good condition 44 or 48" deck for an XI they want to sell?
  7. Hi everyone I have a 312-8 wheel horse over here in the UK. and I have just repaired the mower deck I beleve it is Model: A5-42MS02, as it had become rether ventilated. hole were there should not be holes. On putting back to gether I can ont find if there is a proper way to align the blades. has anyone got an idea how they align or does it not matter? can i just bolt them back on any old how? heres a photo of my wheel horse.
  8. I have a Toro Powershift 1028 that the wheel drive chain is too loose and breaks the drive chain. I have replaced the chain and master link already hoping it was stretched out. The sprockets look okay but I plan to replace them anyway. Is there an adjustment to move the engine away from the transaxle so the chain is more tight? Is there a service manual available? Please advise, mike
  9. The mower belt on this zero turn wheelhorse of mine has come off.... I'm trying to find out the model no. so that I can get hold of a manual and work out how to get back on. Any idea. Thanks Rob
  10. Hoping for some help, advice, anything to make my months-long mission to get my 520-H running a success story. Inherited the tractor from the previous owner of my home. He rarely used it -- preferred his zero-turn -- and advised that I always keep it on the float charger when not in use. I used it for one month's worth of cuts last summer, and then began having problems. At first, the engine was surging. It would fluctuate from high to low rpm with the choke off. However, if I played with the choke (thereby getting way too much fuel and oil into my system), it would run for at least the rest of that cut. After having to keep it running with the choke, it eventually stopped turning over AT ALL. I did the general maintenance: changed both plugs, dropped the oil, drained the fuel, replaced the fuel filter, removed all of the visible (and accessible) electrical connections and cleaned them up. Bought a new battery as well, and the tractor started right up. Sounded better than ever. For one cut. By the end of the cut, I had to start messing with the choke again to keep it running. So, I cleaned the carb, replaced the fuel filter (because it was making a strange knocking sound), cleaned the (new-ish) plugs, bench tested the solenoid, changed the solenoid. When I connected the battery and went to start, I got (what sounded like) very little power to the starter. Loud clicking/rattling sounds ensued, so I brought the batt to Autozone to check the juice. It was at 50%, and it was only one month old. They charged it, and when I reconnected the batt...nada. Nothing. The same old clicking, metal-thrashing-like sound/s. I've tried to jump the solenoid directly -- same result. I've bypassed the solenoid and put all connections directly to the starter -- same result. I've downloaded as many Wheel Horse PDFs as I could find, including the demys guide. Now, I'm thinking about the regulator. Thinking about it as it sits in front of my laptop. It's an Onan 14v 20a. Two ACs and one B+ connections. I'm really hoping it's not the stator and/or the starter. So, any advice on how I should proceed would be greatly appreciated. I have experience with small engines from my years taking apart and racing dirt bikes, but things are just a bit more challenging to access with this beast. But, from EVERYTHING that I have read/heard, a working/running WH will be well worth all of my effort. Sorry for the long post. I am an English teacher : ) -O
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