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Found 109 results

  1. Picked up this 310 the other day and was doing some PM's. Checked under the motor tins and wow, this one was pretty bad!
  2. Carburetor

    Hello all I am in the market for a carburetor for my clinton 1200. Does anyone out there have one?
  3. Cylinder Leak Down Tester

    I'm thinking about buying a Leak down tester. Looking online they range from $29 to $200+. Harbor freight sells a Pittsburg brand one for $39. And several other companies sell that same looking one (Different names) for $29 to$49: There is an OTC brand one for $&9 and $199. So what do y'all use? Does anyone have the Harbor Freight one? I'm a little skeptical l, but like the price for the little bit I will use it. Of course if it's not accurate it a worthless .
  4. Good morning, This is my first post. Several years ago I bought a c120 auto and have used it to mow and snowplow with great success. The other night in the midst of a snow storm I was in a hurry to get going, and didn't check the oil and didn't give the engine enough time to warm up. Result seems to be a broken connecting rod, since it cranks now much faster than it did before and won't start when it was a terrific starter before. So I'm looking for ways to repair the damage I've done. I really love the tractor, comparing it to modern ones that feel like tin foil convinces me that I want to fix this iron horse. I am in southwest Michigan, and looking for help. thanks in advance.
  5. push blade, 11hp briggs

    I have a 79 C-111 that I pulled a running 11hp briggs and stratton engine from and also a front push blade. I am looking to sale both. Push blade 200 Engine 100 I also have the original mowing deck for this mower. I am looking for a WH pull behind tiller attachment, maybe trade?
  6. I am looking for an engine that will easily swap into my C100 that is not the K241AS. Any suggestions?
  7. D250

    Hi I am looking for a distributor drive gear for the Renault 800 on the d250. Also a cylinder head. I lost the gear.
  8. Hi folks Brewster Rob here, was gifted a Cub Cadet LTX 1040 in great shape other then a completely blown 19HP in-famous Kohler Courage SV590, today I acquired a 17HP Pro OHV CV490S in perfect running condition.... so I want to swap the engines. They have identical vertical shafts question is the electrical. The Courage had four wires coming from the engine red/green/white/purple, the Pro has 3 white, 1blk and 1 red. I also have the alternator and regulator from the blown Courage.... might I be able to swap alternators??? I of course have the old Courage key switch I do NOT have the new engine key switch......... Need help from the Red Square wizards and PLEASE think about the best result way to go here.... thank you in advance.
  9. Bought this 310-8 for $100 came with a plow but no engine. Just want to put in the cheap HF $99 Predator 6.5hp. Searched on here and found that people have done this but I cant really find any information on what they needed to do to get it to work. Looks like about a 2" engine plate since the height of the PTOs are different and the mounting bolt locations are different. Besides that, any more tips or pointers? Just making this into a cheap plow tractor, I saw the linkage below the 310-8 is not like below my 312-8. It does not have a chain lift and just a straight bar. I mounted the blade to my 312-8 and it worked fine. Guessing the bar is so I can push down on the blade if need be? Is this something included in the plow package I missed before? Any insight there?
  10. ,Hi all... I bought a D-250 a while back and I really like it but she's got a couple ghost problems that I can't seem to wrap my head around. I believe that it's a '76. It has the Renault engine in it. So three different times now... I've hit a small stump, stopping the mower dead in it's tracks. All three episodes were moderately violent. In two of the occasions, it stalled the mower after I disengaged the deck and backed off of the stump. So here's where it gets weird. After each incident, the mower would no longer start. If I pulled the choke all the way on, it'd fire up and rev to the sky... Like sketchy high rpms which all three times was the only way I could limp it back to the barn. After completing cooling down and tweaking the fuel mixture screw back and forth, I've been able to get it to run well again... Sometimes I can ease the choke off and the governor goes crazy surging off and on... But in most cases, it simply won't run with the choke off. So what in the heck does this have to do with the impacts? The only theory I currently have is that it jolts the fuel tank and fuel filter badly enough to shake up some contamination... But that's just a wild guess. It's also definitely temperature related, because I can mess with carb settings enough to fix it so long as it isn't up to temperature yet. So there it is... Any of you guys ever heard of a crash related fuel issue? I feel like I'm going crazy. I know I'm missing something here in the troubleshooting. Thanks a bunch! Jacob
  11. C-125 Won't Fire

    Wheel horse c-125 with kohler 301 engine wont fire but turns over. I have made sure there is fuel getting to the engine and there is a strong enough spark to start it. Also we have good enough compression. So what is the problem?
  12. ONAN 16 hp

    Just blew the 16hp ONAN on my 416-8. Anyone either have a used one for sale or know a reputable dealer for rebuilt units?
  13. 875 engine and deck needed

    I have an 875 I need a complete 8 hp Kohler and deck thx
  14. Hi Everyone, I am not selling this easily as the loader on this machine was the find of my WH collecting daze! For sale is a 1991 WH 520H with a 1970's Wheelhorse ARK Industries Loader, sub frame and the weight box. The clock on the 520 shows 1183.8 hours. However, the engine was bought off Ebay and I had it shipped to Pennsylvania from Michigan. This Onan P220 had less than 800 hours on it and I have put 40 hours and some change on it since installing years ago. (It doesn't get used a lot)! Before installing, I de-carboned it and replaced the top-end gaskets. I need room for home projects, space in the garage and I picked up another loader tractor of orange color so this one has to go. What's wrong with it!? Well first off, everything works as it should except a gauge light is out on one of the dash gauges. The gauge works, You just can't see it at night. One of the pivots on the loader left side is wallowing. It's not bad but it is something that I will mention. There is a small seep from the left side bucket dump cylinder hose connector. The tractor is also is a ***** to start if it sits awhile. What is right with this machine? All the gauges work! All the lights work! It has the forward swept front axle which makes turning with a loader wonderful. It has the heavy-duty front spindles so it can handle the stresses a loader with weight will induce on a tractor. The bucket is as solid as you can get and built heavy-duty! With the weight bucket full and with the 26x12x12 rear tires/rims, you won't get stuck unless you really try or are in some seriously bad terrain. Though this tractor's speed and direction is still controlled by the steering wheel lever, you will also get a complete foot pedal conversion kit I bought a few years ago on RedSquare and never installed. The motor runs great! The tranny is powerful cold, warm or hot! The loader works 100% and can handle many tasks least of which is snow removal. (Now is where I start to sound like a late night commercial) You will also get the original Onan P220 motor, (rear cyl valve seat went), with all the parts intact including the muffler, coil and fuel pump, PTO, etc. It can be rebuilt if you so desire. (If you buy it now).............. For the asking price, you also get a complete 1992 WH 416-8 that is 100% mechanically sound. (Electrical gave me fits so it has a push start). It looks like hell and a tire loses air but it runs and mows great and starts each and every time. It comes with a 42" SD mower deck that works well. The Onan P216 runs great and has good compression in both cyl. If anything happens to the 520H, the 216's motor can be dropped right in! I really need both these machines out of my garage and storage shed soon. I have NOT offered this on Craigslist or on our other popular classified website here in Central Pa yet. What I really want is for someone on Redsquare to buy it and take care of this machine. ARK Loaders are getting scarce and this unit runs great. I just don't use it as much as I though I would and having two loaders is nuts when space is tight. This machine has never sat out in the weather since I have owned it. (Almost 10 years). It has always been serviced and regularly maintained. It hasn't mowed grass in 5 years! The price is negotiable but I don't want to give it away. I won't ship it either as it's too much to take on and I'm busy as heck! Emails or PM's. I'll check in a few times a day until it is sold or if no takers, it goes on the block to someone who most likely won't care much about it! If you have any questions, let me know. More pictures are available if you want to see something up close and personal. Here are some of the views I took this afternoon of the loader/tractor. $2500 or best offer. Give me an offer. I'm not criminally insane. I'll counter or just say no. Just be serious folks. Thanks!
  15. K321 Engine Block Assy.

    For Sale one Kohler Engine, 14hp., block, head, crank, flywheel, nothing else. this engine was running when removed. lacked power and had a piston slap noise. Pick up only or I can bring it to the show in June.
  16. I'm finally getting around to pulling the diesel engine out of the Dxi to replace the injection pump, no small task but doable, hopefully all goes well and I be part of the oil burning xi crowd , here's as far as I've gotten in the last few weeks, as well as having the injectors rebuilt I have a new replacement pump ready to go in as well as most of the gaskets I had gotten late last summer from Matt @bowextreme , the radiator, fan shroud ,and engine mounts were the hardest part of the disassemble process so far, Jeff.
  17. I thought I would do a quick, but thorough, right up on my recent engine swap on my 520-H. The Onan has served me well for the past three year with the exception of the manifold leaking and having to run it at half choke to smooth out the idle. Currently this machine is used for my snowblower in the winter and loader in the summer. Knowing that the Onan had life left, but not wanting to risk catastrophic failure on a necessary piece of equipment I decided to look for a replacement. With shear luck I found a brand new 2001 Kohler 25hp on Craigslist for $450 and wasted no time getting it. The Onan will have a new home on a second 520 I was given in desperate need of attention, making it a good candidate for a restomod tower/ hood swap donated from a black hood model. The swap isn't to terrible but more time consuming than I had originally thought. The worst of which was a wiring gremlin that I created running a wire to an accessory power source instead of a full time one. The engine is wider than an Onan making placement a challenge. An inch froward of where the engine is currently bolted you can see two holes. The one to the left side of the tractor is a factory whole that I used for the first round placement of the motor. This left the engine to far forward for the clutch engagement to work properly, but was a good medium for the belt alignment. After moving the wholes back a little over an inch everything worked out great, with exception of the belt guard which I have spaced out with washers for the time being. Next came the wiring. With the diagrams I was able to find I discovered that the Kohler came with a similar setup to the Onan. This includes the oil pressure switch, starter solenoid, a place for the tach. wire. The Kohler has a fuel shut off solenoid that needs constant 12v while the engine is running and is tied into the starter solenoid. On the back of the engine plug there is a post with a red and a blue wire, the red one I connected to the yellow ( coil 12v ) wire and the blue one to the light blue ( starter solenoid ) wire. The fuel shut off is currently my only engine kill as the 520 key switch does not have a post that provides grounding in the off position. Here is the Basic layout: Tractor Kohler CH25S Oil Pressure - Dark Blue Oil Pressure - Green Starter Solenoid - Light Blue Starter Solenoid - Blue Tachometer - Gray Rectifier - AC Post Coil Positive - Yellow Carburator Solenoid - Red - formally connectedt to blue Battery + - Red Battery + - Heavy Red Ground - Black Ground - Black Cylinder Temperature - White Temperature Sensor Kill Switch - White The cylinder temperature probe needs a whole with 1/4 - 20 threads but the Kohler uses fine thread 1/4 so I had to tap one of the throttle bracket bolt wholes for it. this was the best location for a good reading while keeping it away from the exhaust port. The throttle cables worked good, just had to shorten the choke a bit. The oil drain from the Onan was the perfect fit for the Kohler also. As for the pto I needed to bend the top bracket to allow the muffler to line up properly. Last to be modded was the hood. Luckily the hood just clears the filter cover, but I had to notch for the muffler. If anyone has any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
  18. Engine power loss

    I have a C-161 twin auto with a 16hp Briggs. It's losses power when put under a load and sounds like it miss fires and shoots a flame out the exhaust at high idle. I flashed the gas tank cleaned the fuel filter, cleaned the carb & rebuilt the fuel pump still the same problem. Any suggestions on where to look next ? Thanks for any help I can get.
  19. GT14 Air Cleaner Adapter Intake

    Hello, looking for a GT14 air filter adapter/intake, specifically the aluminum intake that kicks the air filter outside of the hood. Please let me know if you would part with one. PM appreciated. Thank, Vince
  20. 417A - full of GUNK

    Acquired locally a 417A with a bunch (3000+) hrs on the meter, but a jump got it running and for $200 I drove it home. Came with a blade too. Thought the price was right considering it had a 48" deck mounted that looks to be in much better shape than the rest of the tractor. As I said I did drive it the few blocks home with an occasional pop or crack from the motor that I attributed to possibly a sticking valve or even just some old gas. Parked it and tossed a tarp half over it until I could get a chance to work on it, which turned out to be longer than expected. Anyway, to the problem, I went out a couple of days ago and put a charger on it for a while and tried to start it and it turned over about a quarter turn and locked up, so I pulled the spark plugs and tried the starter again and the worst looking junk I had ever seen in a motor came squirting out of the plug holes. Whats up with that? How would a motor fill up with GUNK, even setting outside? Shot a bunch of PB Blaster in both plug holes to try to loosen up any rust or junk in the cylinders but would like to figure out where it got into the cylinders, in the first place, before I go any further with trying to save it. Motor appears to have all the tin, air cleaner and muffler on it.
  21. WANTED: Working Kohler K181

    I'm looking for a working Kohler K181 of any variant that has good compression and little/no smoking on start up. I do not necessarily need a carb, generator, or fuel tank. Cosmetics are not a consideration. I would be interested in picking up the engine at the PA show in June (or any other reasonable or local arrangement). Please PM me with any pictures/video and your asking price. Evidence of good compression/no smoke would be much appreciated. Thanks! Tim
  22. C121 will not crank

    My 1978 C121 will not start. It will not crank over. The voltage at the battery post on the key switch is 12.3 volts. When I turn the key to the run position the voltage at the battery post on the key switch drops off. I tested the clutch switch. good Replaced the key switch. Seat switch is bypassed. I am suspecting the PTO interlock switch but I have no idea how it works and how to test it. I am very mechanically inclined but I have never seen a switch like that before. Help Please. Matt
  23. Onan 20HP for 520 HC (1989)

    Hi All, New to the forum - from Australia and looking for an Onan 20HP for my Wheel Horse 520 HC - I'm not that good a swimmer so someone would need to be prepared to go through the hassle of sending this engine to me in Australia - and to be honest I have no idea of the amount of work/effort that would take from your end there. I am after an engine that is is good to great working condition too please. All help/assistance would be appreciated. I have had my 520 for 14 years and it is a lot like me - looks terrible, old and beaten up but still works great (it doesn't look at all like the ones on the site here - they are like new!!!! congratulations to you all). i have maintained and had the 520 serviced twice per year (minimum) but just two weeks ago it blew up - short blocks need to be re-chromed so my mechanic tells me (I am not mechanically skilled at all, I may have the explanation mucked up a little/lot!!) thanks in advance - Paul from Warragul Australia!
  24. Cross Reference

    Greetings, I acquired and 1967 wheel horse 657 ... the engine on the thing is a Tecumseh with a Craftsman (very odd and not original I guess lol) mdoel number 143-546122 ... Having a really hard time figuring out the Tecumseh model number, cuz the craftsman site gives me the part list and what not, but most of which don't exist anymore, so wanted to try to find the Tecumseh parts instead of going the way of craftsman... best I can figure out so far is its an H60 engine... THX
  25. First post. Been lurking for a year. So I caught the Wheel Horse bug last year when I bought a '90 520H. Had about 950 hours. Came with 42" deck and plow. Guy I bought it from was really decent and said that the rear cylinder was starting to lose compression. When tested it was lower than I liked but not horrible. As I recall right around 100 hot, maybe just below. (Note to self: clean out fins after every use.) The guy also threw in a blown Onan 20 from another 520 swap he had done. I bought this with the full understanding that, sooner or later, I was going to be facing the dilemma I am now facing. Unfortunately, it is sooner. I ran the tractor all summer, cutting a total of about 2.5 acres of ground every week or so. Was dutiful about clearing fins, but it was pretty dusty a couple times when I cut. Did service the breather once. Fell in love with that machine! Couldn't wait for a snowfall to push it around with the blade. In the mean time the guy I bought from had a 60" deck I had been eyeing when I picked up the tractor, and he offered it to me at a good price. Picked it up, installed it and used it for last cut of the season - a really dusty one, I might add. Ran like a dream! Deck was perfect and cut my time down considerably. I had a little slippage on PTO start up, but once moving, that deck screamed! After that last cut, I parked her in the equipment shed, put some stabilizer in the fuel, patted her nicely on the hood and wished her a good winter until the snows fell. A few weeks later, I happened to be in the equipment shed and thought I would turn her over just to keep the carb clear. She started, but she was not happy about it. When I pulled her out, it was pretty clear she was only running on one cylinder. After a while I could feel the second one kick in. Hoping against hope, I changed the plugs, thinking one might have gone bad. Nope. So, because I didn't have time that day to fiddle further, I let her sit for a few more weeks. When I came back, I could not get her to start at all, until I took off the breather assembly, and then it was ragged. After a while she would not run at all. Upon inspection I realized that it looked like spurts of fuel were coming out of the top of the carb assembly. Cold compression was 95 on the front cylinder and 5, yes 5, on the back. OK, so I've now gotten past denial stage and moved on to acceptance. I need to do something. I have lots of options. I am assuming that I have a valve problem on the engine currently in the tractor. May be something else, but, come on, its an Onan PG 220 and these are fairly classic symptoms... I think I just put it over the edge with that big deck. I probably could have babied it for another season with the smaller deck, but I had to save time!!! I don't really know what is wrong with the spare/part engine the guy threw in, but I am assuming the same thing. (Yes, I know what assuming does.) So here is (are) the question(s): Do I take these Onans to someone (because the guts of an engine, outside of maybe repairing or replacing a carb, are beyond my current skills set) to try to patch together a workable engine from them? Do I just chuck it and do a complete swap with a new engine? (which I feel fairly confident I could accomplish on my own.) And if so what engine? Options - HondaGX690, a Vanguard of similar size, the HF Predator, and maybe a Kohler. In giving your advice recognize a few things: 1. I HAVE the money to go all out on the replacement, but I am cheap as hell. The predator appeals to the second part of that. Have looked at the thread of the guy who did that replacement, so it looks simple enough, but wonder about the long term durability. 2. Similarly, I can probably afford whatever it would cost to combine engines, but, again, I am cheap as hell. I hate paying someone else to do work for me that I could do myself, or do the substitute of. Also, I worry a bit about the long term logic of fixing a 25 year old engine with another 25 year old engine. At the same time, I really loved the way that Onan roared. 3. I am fairly mechanically capable, but with limited knowledge or tools for progging around in the internal workings of an engine. Hook ups and problem solving for a retrofit should be no problem though. 4. Time is not a huge issue. I currently have a POS mower that does the job, but, sadly, is not a WH. I want to RIDE again, though.... Hit me with your best shot...