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Found 21 results

  1. Ok - the UL-1 batteries won't cut it for turning over the big cast iron Kohler twins - got one that is only 6mo old and it's basically shot already . One start cycle and if it doesn't fire it's done - needs to be jumped . Since it's mounted above the Sundstrand pump and so close to that thumper engine I'd assume the vibration is just killing the plates . At a rate of 2 batteries per year - that doesn't work out very well and the rotating mass of that engine just draws far too much from the battery - even with a new starter . From the BCI group number chart and some dimensions of what can fit in the tractor physically I come up with a Group 26 battery - what is everyone using in their twin cylinder D's ?? I see an equivalent Deka runs about $80 - anyone tried that size on one of these D's ...? Sarge
  2. Getting my mess of a d160 rebuilt and found the source of play in my steering. This may also explain the oddball rim. Bottom race. Or is it races now? -----------------------If you don't like modded OEM parts go no further, there be carnage ahead!---------------------------------------- So I went on a hunt for a replacement. Wow those are expensive. No standard bearings even close. Turns out 3/4 x 1-3/8 x 1/2 wheel bearings fit perfect because of their flange. Well almost. The ID is a little off. Adjustment needed. I already ground the lip off. I believe the lips were to hold the bearings for assembly. The flange of the bearing sits nicely in the adjustment cup. Looking down into the cup with bearing in it. Flange side down. Worm alignment with sealed bearing in cup on left. Same as new. The cotter pin hole doesn't line up but there is enough room to drill a new one. End view with bearing installed. To install both top and bottom bearings you have to grind or turn a good portion of the shaft and the lip on the other side. It's only .030 so not to bad. Both bearings installed. Fit nicely against the shoulder of the race on the worm. Worm alignment with both bearings installed. Old outer races removed. tightened snug. Still has full travel and is more centered. No way to install cotter pin. but my alignment cup was so tight it will not come loose. I'm lucky I got it out. End cap with both bearings installed. Hi-tech cap removal tool one ground down wood bit. The sealed bearings sit up against the shoulder of the race and the bearing flanges face away from the worm. The flange may need adjusting depending on who made it. There is no inner seal so it can be greased like usual. I'm not sure how they will hold up to thrust loads but for 6 bucks I'll risk it. I didn't grind near the original races at all so it can be put back to original if need be, minus some metal anyway. Welp, back to painting parts.......
  3. I've been looking for a while. The bolt holes just line up and the wire is a little tight between the fender and light. No drilling though. They were at Rural King. I think about three bucks each. Optronics MC42RS RED Marker/Clearance.
  4. D-180 for sale

    This unit starts and runs good, hydros work good. Brand new battery, never used. Front and rear PTO Dual brakes 3 point hitch Hour meter does'nt work. Wasn't working when I got it. Email me for fastest reply
  5. wheel horse D -180wheel horse D -180wheel horse D -180wheel horse D -180wheel horse D -180wheel horse D -180wheel horse D -180Wheel Horse 18 automatic Disk brakes 3/PT rear PTO Rm59 rear mower wheel horse D -180 Wheel horse D-1802 Wheel horse D-1802 Wheel horse D-1806
  6. My "new" D-180

    I just got this 74 D-180 for $450. Seems to run good, needs choke lever, pto belt, gas tank is a cobble-job, hydros seem to work. Just wanted to see what you folks thought. What would you pay? Also where can I find a front end loader? They seem hard to come by. Sorry for cut-off pics....I didn't take them!
  7. I know in the past someone posted up the sizes/numbers for the o-rings that fit between the hydro pump and the steel lines' manifold blocks on the D-series - I'd imagine the ones at the pump end and rear axle are the same ....? Will be changing my pump soon due to the hydro to engine coupler blew out it's splines and took out the shaft along with it . Evidently a trailer weighing around 2.5 tons was too much.... I'll try to write up a post on how to build a new coupler from a later model C series pump pulley's center ring and a worn D coupler as well - trying to finish up the Ross steering box right now . Sarge
  8. OK, for the second time now, something inside the tranny on my D180 has broken the dipstick from the "full" mark down. It's currently inside the bottom of the transmission. Anyone have any thoughts on why this is happening? The first time it happened, I noticed that the threaded tube that it travels down was bent. So I thought that was the issue. But the new one is perfectly straight, and the same thing happened again.
  9. Wheelhorse D180

    Hi: I am a new member and have owned a 1075 Wheel-a-Matic, a great hydo tractor. I have my eye on a D180 and need to know what to look for when I inspect it. I own some Simplicities and know what to look for with those machines, but would like some guidance on the D180. Thanks.
  10. Several times I've seen posts about adding rubber "wipers" to the snowblower auger for better throw and to minimize clogging. Can someone enlighten me here? I think I know what you're referring to, but how would I know what to get, how big, how many, etc. Will this enable me to clean right down to the concrete? I'm using the blower for a D180.
  11. oil level

    The manual for the d-180 calls for 6 quarts of oil in the transmission. When I do that, it's well above the full line. When I start the tractor, it seems normal. If I only fill it to the full line, then start the tractor, it's way below the full line. What's right? I've been using the 6 quart recommendation on a "dry" transmission (assuming all the oil is drained down to the transaxle) and have not had any problems, but I don't want to create one either. Any thoughts?
  12. Ok, these stupid ATV rear tires have to go - if nothing else just for the plethora of holes in them and the leaks , not to mention they are too short in height .... Prefer to run the stock 26x12x12's so I don't have to find a set of rims . I run the Carlisle True Power ags on my other machines but the cost factor right now is not good for that brand with shipping added . I have a local Goodyear dealer that has a US made ag available for $108/ea and no shipping charges but it will cost for the local taxes . Need to call and find out what exact "brand" those are , he did say he preferred the overlapping v-bar on them compared to the Carlisle design and said they seem to bite better as well . What is everyone running , and where to buy ? Sarge
  13. I am selling my Wheel Horse D180 with Branley loader. This horse is a worker and I have rebuilt the steering unit that has been a problem with these WH. The rings were also replaced and cylinders deglazed. Two of the 4 hydraulic cylinders were repacked. The unit runs great. I am not a very good painter so I will leave that for a next person. I am asking $2400. If you have any questions send me a pm.
  14. NOS "D" series muffler

    NOS D series muffler that my Father-in-law bought for his D200 many moons ago. Price is negotiable. Pay the asking price and shipping is covered, If not add $20 your offer for shipping and handling. If you e-mail me please put Muffler somewhere in the subject line. First offer of full asking price gets it, over lower offers except one caveat; I would like to see it go to someone who is restoring their D and not to someone who will just throw it on their beater to get the spring plowing and tilling done.
  15. Need Side Tin Engine Covers For D180

    I'm looking for some side tin covers that cover the heads on the Kohler engine for my D180. If you have some let me know. Thanks!
  16. D180 I think

    New to Red Square and new to wheel horse. Pictured is what I think is a D180 that my father-in-law acquired around 2008. He disassembled it to repair a crack and I have been slowing putting it back together. When the tractor came to me all the panel where sand blasted and bare except the fuel tank he painted and a few panels that I painted. I've spent several weekends painting and reassembling and I'm pretty sure I got every thing in the right place. All that is left is to finish the wiring, install new fuel hose and the seat and find some mufflers. I have one NOS muffler but I rather try find suitable subs or to fab up some mufflers than use an NOS one.
  17. Well my '73 auto 18 was running great yesterday until the engine died and quit. Next I see smoke rising from under the hood. There was short in the wire harness and wire was burned right to the copper. I reached in and was able to stop the tractor from goin up in smoke. I just ripped out the shorted wire harness and it stopped. So i took out the battery and went to work. I looked at the wiring diagram, which seems straightforward until you try to match it up with the ignition switch. After spending a couple of hours rewiring, I can not figure out which wire goes where in the ignition. Can any one help me as I am totally at a loss. The letters on electrical diagram around the ignition sketch don't match anything i see on the actual ignition. Would anyone be able to give me a hand. I don't need to compound problems by experimenting with wire combinations on the ignition. Very grateful for any help. Thank you. Jack
  18. D clean up

    Wrapping up a long 3 days of "logging" in the back yard.
  19. A couple weeks ago, I picked up this D180 and snow blade for $200. It doesn't run because it needs rewired and the air breather put on. The seller still has the air breather which he'll send to me as soon as he finds it. The tractor has hydraulics, drawbar and brand new Carlisle Ag tires on the rear. I would like to get it running but will need some help. First, does anyone have a wiring diagram for a D180? Where can I find a manual for this? Also, where would be a place to get parts for this? The tractor is entirely intact (minus the air breather) except for a couple sheet metal panels which I'd like to put on. Thanks in advance! -IvanW
  20. Hydro Whine

    I'm sure this has been addressed before. I've been hauling around a trailer full of gravel around my yard quite a bit over last couple of weeks with my D180. No problems moving it around, but when I'm climbing a hill, or moving it from a stopped position, The hydro complains by whining as they typically do, but more so because of the strain. My question is... Is this just something I should expect from a hydro system? If I'm running the tractor full throttle or close to it, do I run the risk of blowing something out if I push to hard? Will I stall the engine like a geared tranny? I don't want to break anything, but maybe I'm babying it too much.
  21. My D-180's steering box grease reservoir must have a hollow leg. I've pumped more grease into that thing expecting to, at some point, see it ooze out somewhere to know it's filled. I've yet to see any grease! Is it possible it's filling in the tube that that the steering shaft runs through? Or could it be that empty?
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