Thor27 722 #26 Posted July 17, 2022 Is it odd that it has the 300 style tall spindles and 6" wheel on a 400? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rick3478 400 #27 Posted July 17, 2022 1 hour ago, Thor27 said: Is it odd that it has the 300 style tall spindles and 6" wheel on a 400? The smaller wheels let you use the 37" two-blade mower deck. With 8" wheels you can't turn left. Depends on year, I think, and I've seen the small wheels more often on hydros. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rick 217 #28 Posted July 17, 2022 My 416H has the 6 inch wheel set up, came to me with a 48" deck. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 11,154 #29 Posted July 17, 2022 (edited) I'm thinking that the axle was swapped. Later model Onan powered 416 hydros had 6-inch wheels, but not the apparent year model of that tractor. Of course nearly 50 years after manufacture, it's impossible to know how many times something has been modified. Just know that if you swap those front wheels out to 8-inch, you'll need the shorter spindles to go with them. Edited July 17, 2022 by kpinnc 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,713 #30 Posted July 17, 2022 20 hours ago, Thor27 said: Is it odd that it has the 300 style tall spindles and 6" wheel on a 400? Well sir... that is one thing that Dave @davem1111 changed... as there were parts he wanted off the tractor, and swapped some things. Me... I couldn't care less... @kpinnc... you are 100% correct. BUT... I think I will stick with what I have for now. Later... I would like to get AG tires all the way around... but for now... it rolls...! Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,713 #31 Posted July 17, 2022 So... today I started the teardown... and did a good bit of work. Although unconventional... I used the shock ends of the old shocks off of the Ranger... @Jeff-C175 @ebinmaine @Pullstart... you guys know that I replaced the rear shocks on the Ranger with air shocks... well... these are the ends of the old shocks... I cut a piece of stainless rod to run through the holes... drilled some holes in the stainless rod and put some keepers on to hold it all together. I guess that's one way to do a hinged hood... but it REALLY goes to show that with a little work and ingenuity... nothing goes to waste around the funny farm... (sorry this picture is a little crooked... just tilt you head to the right a little... ) The hood itself is much straighter now. I had to physically stand on the hood where the headlight holes are... and twist the top of the hood counterclockwise to straighten it out. That took a little muscle... but looks MUCH straighter... I'm getting pretty good at taking this motor off and putting it back on... anyone think I should try out for the NHRA...? Lot's of parts need sanding and priming. Probably going to have to do some grinding on them... I did repair some frame components and some cosmetic stuff today as well... not really shown in the pictures unless you break out your microscope. I'm not going to get much done tomorrow... gots to chauffeur one of the female lady women to a doctors' appointment... Don 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thor27 722 #32 Posted July 17, 2022 16 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said: Hood looks a lot better, but you are really asking a LOT from that axle center pin being in single shear! 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,713 #33 Posted July 17, 2022 Just now, Thor27 said: you are really asking a LOT from that axle center pin being in single shear UH... you lost me... what do you mean, dear sir? Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thor27 722 #34 Posted July 17, 2022 The pin in the center of the axle. Part #4 below. The front hitch part #1 in the second drawing supports the front of that pin. That pin is fragile enough when supported on both ends I suspect it will break first time you drive tractor in current configuration. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,713 #35 Posted July 17, 2022 5 minutes ago, Thor27 said: That pin is fragile enough when supported on both ends I suspect it will break first time you drive tractor in current configuration. Hmm... interesting that I haven't heard of this issue before... I wonder what a good solution would be... Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 64,075 #36 Posted July 17, 2022 18 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said: Hmm... interesting that I haven't heard of this issue before... I wonder what a good solution would be... Don I agree with @Thor27. You'll want to build or modify a front point of attachment for the axle. Perhaps use the original piece as a model. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thor27 722 #37 Posted July 17, 2022 What you are doing How it is designed to work The back of that pin, light strap, 5/16 bolt. This is where it will brake. 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rick3478 400 #38 Posted July 17, 2022 26 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said: Hmm... interesting that I haven't heard of this issue before... I wonder what a good solution would be... The most obvious would be to put a tach-a-matic on there (part# 1). Was that already missing when you got it? 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,713 #39 Posted July 18, 2022 15 minutes ago, Rick3478 said: The most obvious would be to put a tach-a-matic on there (part# 1). Was that already missing when you got it? Yeah, Dave took it... Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thor27 722 #40 Posted July 18, 2022 (edited) It mounts on the 3 square holes at front of frame with 3 3/8 carriage bolts where your current hinges are welded. If you get one there is a 3/8 and a 1/4 hole along the top, a 3/8 rod picks up your existing hinges, the 1/4 stops it from flopping on the ground. a great improvement over the earlier blackhood design. Edited July 18, 2022 by Thor27 Add pic. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 11,154 #41 Posted July 18, 2022 4 hours ago, Snoopy11 said: drilled some holes in the stainless rod Don be sure and add a ground jumper between the hood and frame if you're gonna run headlights. Stainless is great at stopping corrosion, but sucks as a conductor. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,713 #42 Posted July 18, 2022 13 hours ago, kpinnc said: Don be sure and add a ground jumper between the hood and frame if you're gonna run headlights. Stainless is great at stopping corrosion, but sucks as a conductor. EXCELLENT ADVICE!!! I didn't think about that at all. Also, the rubber material in the shock ends would further prohibit grounding... thanks Kevin! I am still plotting a solution for the shear issue. I was talking to a steel engineer here in Southern Indiana... and he was giving me some ideas once I showed him the pictures. The most intriguing idea he gave me is running a piece of 1/2" steel plate from the frame down to the pin, putting the 1/2" piece of steel plate on the die grinder for a hole to go around the pin... then welding the 1/2" steel plate inbetween the hood mounts, and putting 3/8 bolts in just for good measure... This is a picture of the idea... @8ntruck... @ebinmaine... @pacer... @OldWorkHorse.... @oldlineman... @Pullstart... @kpinnc... @Jeff-C175... @Thor27... If any of you guys have any thoughts... please do share! Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,198 #43 Posted July 18, 2022 41 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said: a picture I fiddled with your pic a little... because certainly it would look more like this with that bracket behind the hinge pin rod. How thick is the piece of metal that the shock bushings are welded to? That would need to be pretty beefy. I would consider re-making the part so that the support for the axle pin, and the hood hinge, are all one piece, and 1/4" material at least. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,713 #44 Posted July 18, 2022 1 minute ago, Jeff-C175 said: How thick is the piece of metal that the shock bushings are welded to? That would need to be pretty beefy. Well, it is the front tractor frame... so I'm not positive how thick it is... but it has to be around 1/2" ...not exactly sure though... I do know... the steel plates I have around here are the same width as the tractor frame... (my educated 'guess' was 1/2") 2 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said: I would consider re-making the part so that the support for the axle pin, and the hood hinge, are all one piece, and 1/4" material at least. That was the second option that I was considering. My only gripe with that is having to remove the hinges/shock bushings... which aren't exactly crazy-glued on... (I did a full-blown weld bead around the whole thing)... so getting them off would require an unfortunate amount of grinding and brute force... not that I couldn't my way through that... but... 7 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said: I fiddled with your pic a little... because certainly it would look more like this with that bracket behind the hinge pin rod. Wow... that's pretty good... and it's exactly like it would look if I went that route... Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thor27 722 #45 Posted July 18, 2022 Don, imho, you would be better off making it out of 1/4" so you could still clip the pin. The hole needs to be more precise than I could make with a die grinder. The holes and pin support the tractor, the clip retains the pin, the strap and bolt in the back are just to keep the pin from rotating ( so the axle rotates on pin vs pin rotaing in frame wearing the holes oblong). Sorry that's so long, I speak fluent jiberish so it makes sense to me, your mileage may vary... 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,198 #46 Posted July 18, 2022 4 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said: it is the front tractor frame. I see that now... at first I thought that was something you added because the color, but sure... you grinded and welded so it would be shiny! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,713 #47 Posted July 18, 2022 3 minutes ago, Thor27 said: Sorry that's so long, I speak fluent jiberish so it makes sense to me, your mileage may vary... Not at all... that makes perfect sense. Thank-you very much. I was under the impression that the steel plates I have are 1/2" ...little did I know they were actually 1/4" ...and the tractor frame is also only 1/4"... Sorry... I had the wrong impression. I should have actually measured... Anyway... yeah... I'm a little bit of a nut when it comes to tools... so I can... pretty precisely make holes in metal with the bench tools I have. I won't go into detail here... but that is why it is even an option... Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,713 #48 Posted July 18, 2022 8 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said: you grinded and welded so it would be shiny! Yeah... it looked like tin-foil before I started welding... I used the little mig for that job... no need to break out the big-rig welder for a little job like that... Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 11,154 #49 Posted July 18, 2022 33 minutes ago, Thor27 said: Sorry that's so long, I speak fluent jiberish so it makes sense to me, your mileage may vary... "Fluent jiberish"... I'm keeping that one! 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 60,696 #50 Posted July 18, 2022 I went through this with the WHRat… Link to fix here 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
