Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


kpinnc last won the day on February 25 2012

kpinnc had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

103 Excellent

About kpinnc

  • Rank
    RedSquare Pro

Profile Information

  • Location
    Albemarle, NC

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. TT had alink a while back for direct replacement bulbs that were LEDs inside. They were for 300/400/500 series tractors. They were a bit pricey ($25-$30 each) as I recall, but they should never need replacing. Sorry I don't have the link. My laptop was replaced and I forgot to get my favorites transferred...
  2. Hey, when you can walk the day after working on your tractor- it's a winner no matter what! :)
  3. Me too. As I have been told, that's why they make rotary weld-removal tools...
  4. I built this one a while back. Works similar, but connects to the frame so the tractor can be completely dissassembled or built up from that. It drives around like a kids wagon, or can be towed. Here's the build thread:
  5. Looks like the axles from a no-name 8- 4 speed. They are very long like that, and are 1 inch diameter. They will fit any tranny that uses 1 inch axles.
  6. kpinnc

    Snow Blade on 1990 310-8

    Or just buy a section of 1/4-inch flat bar and fab up what works best for you. Much cheaper and no guess work! Just my two cents...
  7. kpinnc

    3 point hitch

    From what I've seen, the only defining measurement between hitch categories is the pin diameter. Cat 0= 5/8, Cat 1= 3/4, and so on. My avatar shows my 1971 Bronco 3 point, and the arms are from a D-series Wheel Horse. I am also working on another WH that uses a "different" brand's arms, and they are a couple inches longer, mostly due to a different bend pattern. A few other members have built 3-points for thier tractors as well. All of them are different from one to the other. In short- The arms are whatever length works best for you, your tractor, and the attachments you plan to use with it.
  8. kpinnc

    Steering gears

    Every one I have ever seen- even newer ones, have a slight egg shape here. I thought it was there to provide a small area to hold some grease? I'm always surprised how much steering slop comes from the axle pivot getting sloppy. New tie rods and a 3/4 bushing in the axle pivot will tighten things up quite a bit.
  9. kpinnc

    Seal replacement problems

    Yes and no. I said it was an option under certain conditions, and it has been discussed here before. Again, I have never tried it myself- YET. In theory- once the bearing is pressed in past the contact surface, it would just ride the axle without touching anything else. If the bearing can be pressed into the case intact, it won't harm anything. If it is damaged in any way, the bet is off. Pressing in a damaged bearing would be introducing free-floating parts, and I was not reccomending that. The key would be recognizing the difference between simply worn and damaged/ falling apart. Make sense?
  10. Baking soda works just fine BTW. It's all I've ever used.
  11. kpinnc

    Seal replacement problems

    Very good point. I should probably clarify some things from my previous post: First off, I would NEVER do this on a hydro. Just sayin... Several years back, this bearing x2 option was discussed at length. Most of us agreed that it was feasable, but with limitations. A worn bearing (diameter of the needles themselves), with no obvious wear on the axle, and NO other damage would be the only candidate for this procedure in any shop. The use of a hammer and punch or something like that would NOT be the reccomended tools to perform this. PVC pipe, or a large socket, or something similar used CAREFULLY with a press would be the only way to push the bearing in without damaging it. NEVER TRY TO PUSH AN OLD BEARING WITH A NEW ONE. The key would be to push it further onto the axle and keep it intact without damage. If, and I should say IF you can push the bearing in without destroying it, it has no way of entering the tranny. The differential end caps seat in the 1533 bearing and there is no way into the tranny beyond it. As I said, I have never done this- but I do recall someone else has. I wish I could remember who it was, but I don't. In a perfect world, we would all go by the manual to the letter. Unfortunately some of these transmissions have been forming rust welds around things like long 3/8 bolts and hitch pins, and splitting the case can introduce all new challenges that none of us would be thrilled to get our hands on. Sometimes, it's a good idea to know a few trade secrets (even the theoretical ones) for when you are in a bind. That is the non-disclosed first point of my post. On another note: I would seat the seals evenly with the opening for the axle ONLY if the axles extend out far enough to keep the hub from rubbing the seal. Some trannies have shorter axles, with only a tiny gap between the tranny and the hub. 1/4 inch of lateral "in/out" play is normal for these axles, and you don't want the hub rubbing through the seal over time. That brings me to my second point: With these machines, there are always little differences. No single fix works on everything the same way. You have to make the decision to use what you read -or not- on your machine. We all just try to help the best we can. Kevin
  12. kpinnc

    Seal replacement problems

    I have never done it myself, but have heard of others pressing in a new bearing- driving the original further into the housing without opening the case. I wish I had tried it before, because I've been in MANY of these trannies. In some cases, just opening one up creates more to fix (new gaskets, etc..) than a simple and reliable fix. It should be an easy fix- provided the OEM bearing has not broken apart, and the axle itself is not the worn part. This would remove the play at the seal. No amount of new seals will stop the leak if the bearing is worn enough to allow the axle to move. A tiny bit of wiggle is one thing, but the seals can only flex so much.
  13. That's a very cool look Kelly! :bow-blue:
  14. I haven't seen the magazine pictures yet, but will agree on principle. It's a beatiful machine, and the only one I've ever seen run on AvGas... Congrats TT. It's good to see all the work you did has been recognized!
  15. Depends on the condition of both machines. A manual transmission has less to break (sometimes), but the hydro gives these tractors infinitely adjustable ground speed. Main pros and cons: Hydros- faster when mowing and plowing. Much more expensive to repair IF you can find parts. Usually best to find a donor tranny and completely swap it out if you begin to have problems. Manual- simpler, both with the way it works and when minor repairs are needed. BUT, the Raider 12 and 14 commonly used 10-pinion differentials. They had better traction due to limited slip, but the differential is far weaker than a 4 or 8-pinion differential. If you put it in a bind, particularly when coupled to a big-block Kohler- they can and do sometimes fail. In a perfect world, which hypothetically means you found a NOS version of both tractors- it's all about what you will use the machine for. But now, the overall condition is probably more important. Both machines are equally rugged, but wear and tear on either tranny will make all the difference. One more thing- The C-120 will be able to use most any attachment made from 1973 and up for B/C and 300/400/500 series machines. Converting the Raider to use those things is simple to do, but you will have to do it if you don't have pre-1973 attachments, particularly mower decks.