Rust - paint help

[Tfarver 22]

This is my commando I just picked up awhile ago. Looks like it was-tried to be a puller. Got it with no motor but have a strong 14 to install. Does anyone know how to preserve the sheet metal but keep the “rust look”. Will be using this unit for small farm chores. I really like the look currently with the rust and wear, kinda tells a story I suppose but I don’t want to leave the Tin “unprotected”. I’ve heard of guys lightly rubbing down the metal with used motor oil?  Any thoughts, comments, concerns are highly appreciated!

[ebinmaine 62,971]

First things first. If I haven't already said so in the past. Welcome to Redsquare!!

 

Second, excellent save!

 

To be completely honest I'm no expert on saving patina but that particular tractor looks like it has a LOT of Red in the undertones and I'm wondering if you might want to get after it with wet sanding sequence instead of oil, first.

 

Do you know what engine that had in the first place? I'm wondering if a 14 is going to fit under that hood without modification?

 

While I'm at it, what's up with the tilt on the front wheels?

[Tfarver 22]

Thank you for the warm welcome. I know it originally was an 8 hp machine. If the 14 won’t fit I do have a smooth running 8 I could use. The front wheels bearing are pretty well completely gone but I have a set of them as well. Also thought about pulling the 8 speed rear from this if I have to use the afore mentioned 8hp as well and try to swap it in as well !

[ebinmaine 62,971]

I just got to thinking. Have you positively identified that entire chassis as a Commando?

That should have made it a 68 or 69 I think. Should have had side steps. Not stirrups? I think?

 

8 horse will do a shockingly large amount of work and heavy pulling. That's what my Trina uses all the time. 867.

 

The 8-speed will only give you gains of having the low range if you want to do something like back around corners slowly or run equipment like a rototiller.

 

 

Any numbers or identification plate on your tractor?

 

[rmaynard 14,864]

There is a big difference between patina and rust. As far as I know, there is no way to stop rust short of removing it.

[squonk 38,845]

Commando's had stirrups. Wet sand the shnikey out of it and clear coat it. 

[Tfarver 22]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

I just got to thinking. Have you positively identified that entire chassis as a Commando?

That should have made it a 68 or 69 I think. Should have had side steps. Not stirrups? I think?

 

8 horse will do a shockingly large amount of work and heavy pulling. That's what my Trina uses all the time. 867.

 

The 8-speed will only give you gains of having the low range if you want to do something like back around corners slowly or run equipment like a rototiller.

 

 

Any numbers or identification plate on your tractor?

 

 

I have not positively identified it as the id tag is gone. The side dash panel says commando that’s all I really have to go off of ? 

[ebinmaine 62,971]

13 minutes ago, squonk said:

the shnikey

Could you?

Well....

Is that a highly technical term????

[squonk 38,845]

28 minutes ago, Tfarver said:

 

I have not positively identified it as the id tag is gone. The side dash panel says commando that’s all I really have to go off of ? 

The hood stand is like almost the hardest and least likely piece to be replaced. If there are Commando decals there, it's probably what it is.

[Tfarver 22]

Thank you for that. So this would be a 68 or 69 correct ? 

[Rob J. 1,940]

3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

First things first. If I haven't already said so in the past. Welcome to Redsquare!!

 

Second, excellent save!

 

To be completely honest I'm no expert on saving patina but that particular tractor looks like it has a LOT of Red in the undertones and I'm wondering if you might want to get after it with wet sanding sequence instead of oil, first.

 

Do you know what engine that had in the first place? I'm wondering if a 14 is going to fit under that hood without modification?

 

While I'm at it, what's up with the tilt on the front wheels?

Spindle looks to be shot. The flange bushings are also probably gone. 

[peter lena 8,037]

@Tfarver  think a spray down with an aerosol lubricant  will be fine , my experience is , totally soak it down , let soak in overnight , rub it down till dry with a clean cloth , soak it again let it sit , would NOT REMOVE ANY MORE PAINT WITH SANDPAPER t ,  clean cloth rub down , at that stage you might try a 6" hand buffer with a cleaner wax , just to see if it will break thru to paint . thats what I have done. done that on 2 horses , and the paint came out looking pretty good , deep shine . if you don't want the shine but want patina , just a clean cloth rub down till dry will bring it out , moisture will bubble up like a wax job . easy to try , pete  

[Jrain 276]

So you are one of the many that like the look of Patina  , that is what it is called today in the automotive restoration world , I say rust , but that is a bad word these days , So what they do to achieve this rat rod patina  look ,   they use CLR in the spray bottle  , over the 6 or 7 years this is the best solution that the rat rod guys found to use , you can get it at any big box home improvement store or hardware store ,  there are a few ways to go about it some guys cut it with water 20 - 50 percent others use 100% CLR  , basically you spray   it on and use  either 0000 steel wool or purple scotch brite  pad ,do a small section at a time , it will and can remove all the rust if you want , but what it does is  bring back ( uncover) what paint is left , its kinda of you take it back as far as you want idea , some guy go all the way others leave a certain amount of rust , after you reach your goal (look that you want to achieve ) wash dry and good coat of wax , The CLR will not stop it from rusting there is no type of rust inhibitor in it ,but it does work well removing rust off the sheet metal , remember  you will be also exposing the primer so if the prime is a different color that will show in the areas were the paint is gone . I suggest you just do a Google search on CLR / patina  and you should get 100s of  pictures of trucks and cars that this process was done , its not any harder to do then washing and waxing a car . Oh and CLR stand for  Calcium / Lime / Rust . . CLR is the name brand . 

[JoeM 7,608]

There is a bazillion ways to do that old look. From specialty coating to oil rub downs. One little piece of fuel for thought. If you have any inkling that you may paint it, steer away from the soaking with petroleum products. Those applications can make it tough to paint later. Or I should say increases the preparation for paint. 

[rmaynard 14,864]

7 hours ago, Tfarver said:

 Looks like it was-tried to be a puller.

 

Not with those AG's on backwards!

[953 nut 51,536]

Many of us have used WD-40 and 0000 Steel Wool to expose some of the RED while retaining the patina look. do a couple square feet at a time and be sure to blend it in with the sections already done.        Pardon the picture quality of lack thereof, camera was cold and the lens fogged up.

[Tfarver 22]

Thanks for all the info guys ! This is awesome knowledge!

Edited May 21, 2022 by Tfarver

[Horse Newbie 6,855]

 to  !!!