C175 project "Amy"

[Maxwell-8 4,270]

I don't have any shop-time on coming three weeks so I am getting all my supplies needed ready.

Already got some engine oil SAE30 and tranny oil castrol 10W40

Planning on ordering new axle seals: 6449

A C-175 uses Par36 headlights as well right?

How many usable charging amps does a Kohler M16 produce? Because I want some brighter lights but still remain the old incandescent/halogeen bulb look.

Hope to not be needing a carb rebuild kit for once as they are 60$ at the dealer

 

Thanks for your input

Edited May 28, 2021 by Maxwell-8

[ebinmaine 63,186]

23 minutes ago, Maxwell-8 said:

dealer

No other good source like online or local repair shops?

[Maxwell-8 4,270]

1 minute ago, ebinmaine said:

online or local repair shops

Online I can find stuff, mostly in Brittain, but with shipping costs and customs, I am looking at the same price. Nobody know here what a "Kohler" is, so no local dealers.

Maybe an the german Ebay...

[Damien Walker 223]

19 minutes ago, Maxwell-8 said:

I don't have any shop-time on coming three weeks so I am getting all my supplies needed ready.

Already got some engine oil SAE30 and tranny oil castrol 10W40

Planning on ordering new axle seals: 6449

A C-175 uses Par36 headlights as well right?

How many usable charging amps does a Kohler M16 produce?

Hope to not be needing a carb rebuild kit for once as they are 60$ at the dealer

 

Thanks for your 

  The M series (and the K series as far as I am aware, all used the same generator hardware, giving 1.25, 3 or 15A depending upon which engine option was selected. If it is the original engine it should be 15A. You can easily tell if you take the flywheel off and look at the generator windings....the lower current versions don't have a complete symmetrical ring of coils whereas the 15A version does.

 

I've just fitted 12W led PAR36 lamps to my 518H and they work well, and at much less current. 12W means approx 1A each rather than the usual 30W @ approx 3A. LEDs are a bit more expensive but worth it I think...brighter too!

[ebinmaine 63,186]

3 minutes ago, Damien Walker said:

12W led PAR36

Have to agree that led is the way to go on a tractor that will be working.

Brighter, whiter light. Most last longer. Less energy use as mentioned. And they run cooler which is great for the close quarters that a lot of garden tractors have.

[Maxwell-8 4,270]

4 minutes ago, Damien Walker said:

ing 1.25, 3 or 15A depending upon which engine option was selected. If it is the original engine it should be 15A

It is not the original engine, I even think it has only a couple of minutes on the C-175 chassis, as I it appears they made a wiring mistake after the engine swap, and blew the battery pretty much immediately. So I will have to take a look behind the flywheel. Is there a way I can measure the amps? Just with my multimeter on the amps setting?

[Damien Walker 223]

44 minutes ago, Maxwell-8 said:

It is not the original engine, I even think it has only a couple of minutes on the C-175 chassis, as I it appears they made a wiring mistake after the engine swap, and blew the battery pretty much immediately. So I will have to take a look behind the flywheel. Is there a way I can measure the amps? Just with my multimeter on the amps setting?

 

Oh yes good point, a C175 should have a KT17 twin.

 

Yes you can measure your amps using your multimeter on the amps setting but you need to connect it in series with a load and set your multimeter max range to greater than the load (e.g. load is 6A, multimeter set to 10A range). If the generator is only capable of 3A....that should be all you get (or thereabouts) with a 6A load. If it is a 15A machine you'll get 6A on the meter. Original headlamps would be a good load....roughly 3A each.

 

If you are not familiar with measuring current, you can easily blow your meter so I can send you a connection diagram if that would help...let me know!

[Maxwell-8 4,270]

9 minutes ago, Damien Walker said:

 

If you are not familiar with measuring current, you can easily blow your meter so I can send you a connection diagram if that would help...let me know!

I know how it should be done, just never done it because i was afraid of blowing my meter, just wondered if it can be done. Will use a cheapo meter I have laying around here capable of 15-20 amps I believe.

[Damien Walker 223]

Ok well good luck! Just make sure the meter is capable of more current than the load and NEVER put the meter directly across the generator as you would with a volt meter. You also probably shouldn't run the engine with no load on the generator....the voltage can go sky high and damage the regulator. If the battery is connected, that's fine for the generator but you'll need to be sure the battery isn't powering the load when you do your test!

 

The procedure then probably should be:

 

1) Connect battery and start engine

2) Connect multimeter (on amps range) to load (e.g. connect multi meter in series and switch lights on)

3) Disconnect battery (engine running)

4) Measure current

5) Stop engine

6) Disconnect load

 

You can also check your generator with your multimeter set to volts.... which is safer. Just measure the voltage across the load. If the load is greater than generator can supply, the voltage across the load will not reach 12-14V.

 

At a quick guess: if you use two par36 head lamps taking 60Watts in total, that will give you a load of 5 Amps and the voltage should be 12-14V.

 

If the generator is only capable of 1.25A, (ie 1/4 of what the lamps need), you'll probably only see around 1/4 of the volts...roughly 3-4V.

 

Multimeters usually have a fuse inside to protect them from fools misusing the current range. If it stops working, you may have blown the fuse....which is quite a common occurrence here!

 

Apologies if you already know all this.

[Maxwell-8 4,270]

1 hour ago, Damien Walker said:

Ok well good luck! Just make sure the meter is capable of more current than the load and NEVER put the meter directly across the generator as you would with a volt meter. You also probably shouldn't run the engine with no load on the generator....the voltage can go sky high and damage the regulator. If the battery is connected, that's fine for the generator but you'll need to be sure the battery isn't powering the load when you do your test!

 

The procedure then probably should be:

 

1) Connect battery and start engine

2) Connect multimeter (on amps range) to load (e.g. connect multi meter in series and switch lights on)

3) Disconnect battery (engine running)

4) Measure current

5) Stop engine

6) Disconnect load

 

You can also check your generator with your multimeter set to volts.... which is safer. Just measure the voltage across the load. If the load is greater than generator can supply, the voltage across the load will not reach 12-14V.

 

At a quick guess: if you use two par36 head lamps taking 60Watts in total, that will give you a load of 5 Amps and the voltage should be 12-14V.

 

If the generator is only capable of 1.25A, (ie 1/4 of what the lamps need), you'll probably only see around 1/4 of the volts...roughly 3-4V.

 

Multimeters usually have a fuse inside to protect them from fools misusing the current range. If it stops working, you may have blown the fuse....which is quite a common occurrence here!

 

Apologies if you already know all this.

Thanks Damien, that is some strait up good info, I can surely work with.  probably going the voltage-methode

Edited May 28, 2021 by Maxwell-8

[Gregor 4,838]

6 hours ago, Maxwell-8 said:

A C-175 uses Par36 headlights as well right?

How many usable charging amps does a Kohler M16 produce? Because I want some brighter lights but still remain the old incandescent/halogeen bulb look.

Par 36 is what I ordered for mine. LED.

 

Should have made it just a bit bigger.

Edited May 28, 2021 by Gregor

[Gregor 4,838]

I guess what you have for a charging system could be anything.

Maybe you can understand the manual better than I can.https://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/index.php?main_page=document_general_info&products_id=34596

 

Edited May 28, 2021 by Gregor

[ebinmaine 63,186]

@Maxwell-8

Do you have any numbers off the engine itself?

[Maxwell-8 4,270]

2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

@Maxwell-8

Do you have any numbers off the engine itself?

Not at the moment sir, I will write them down as soon as I can.  Many thanks for your inputs  

[Maxwell-8 4,270]

Had 5 minutes time to work on Amy. Took the plastic fender off ( that thing just shatterd in my hands) and replaced it with a metal seatpan of the parts 312. (not much left on that pre-toro 312 parts tractor, already kept 2 blackhood's, a 314  and another 312 going.)

 

Found out she has a loose hub on the right side.

removed some remaining wire. All the wiring was 'twist and taped', no wonder it blew the battery.

The Kohler model no is 711502. Any ideas on the charging amps? it has an rectifier-regulator.

 

Thanks in advance 

Maxwell 

Edited June 5, 2021 by Maxwell-8

[ebinmaine 63,186]

Might be able to access a spec sheet showing the amperage output. 

[Gregor 4,838]

12 hours ago, Maxwell-8 said:

Any ideas on the charging amps? it has an rectifier-regulator.

Per Kohler service manual, you have a 15 amp system. I think.

 

Service manual  http://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/tp_2043_a.pdf

[Maxwell-8 4,270]

Had a little bit of spare time today, so I ran to the shop. 

 

Out with the plastic fender 

I got me a metal pan, but that needs repainting bad  

 

I found I had these nice brackets on the tranny. Those are for a tiller not?

 

Edited June 12, 2021 by Maxwell-8

[Gregor 4,838]

23 minutes ago, Maxwell-8 said:

I found I had these nice brackets on the tranny. Those are for a tiller not?

I have the same brackets on my 125. I thought they were for a snow plow, but I have no idea really.

[SylvanLakeWH 24,161]

Brackets - They are for a front blade…

[Damien Walker 223]

They are for both tiller and snow plow. If you get the opportunity to buy the equivalent from the later shape 520 (pressed steel chassis and shaft drive) it is even more versatile.

[Thor27 720]

I suspect you may have an installed height problem, that "appears" to be a big base pan.  You may be able to eliminate the shaker plate, a good thing imho.. 

 

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/44945-identifying-big-block-kohler-block-styles/

[Maxwell-8 4,270]

3 hours ago, Thor27 said:

I suspect you may have an installed height problem, that "appears" to be a big base pan.  You may be able to eliminate the shaker plate, a good thing imho.. 

 

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/44945-identifying-big-block-kohler-block-styles/

Thanks, the engine looks like it's sitting high, and thanks to the article you linked, I can say it's a big block base pan. Rubbers on the shaker plate are pretty bad, and since I can't get new bushings here. She is going strait on the frame.

Many thanks for pointing that out!

[Maxwell-8 4,270]

Folks, we got ourself another lose/worn hub. 

 

She moves a bit up and down. but could not get her off by hand, and had to use a puller. 

The setscrews were not original so I might try reuse the hub with new, good set screws. Axle seals should get in upcoming week.

Edited June 13, 2021 by Maxwell-8

[ebinmaine 63,186]

1 hour ago, Maxwell-8 said:

setscrews were not original so I might try reuse the hub with new, good set screws

Cup type set screws should really only be reused a few times. 

The end of the cup where it actually does the grabbing is sacrificial. 

Good idea for you to replace those. 

 

Check the axle surface to make sure there's a flat spot to "catch" the second set screw. I can't tell from the pics.