cafoose 3,135 #1 Posted June 2, 2020 I got a GT-14 at an auction at least a year ago and it has the original breakerless ignition. I had time to work on it today and got it started All I had to do was prime it and adjust the throttle linkage. I went to drive it and it didn't move. I checked the tow valve and it's tight. Then I looked at the axles and they are sticking out 3" to 4" from the casting. I looked at my other GT-14 that I just got running and the axles are close to the casting. When I jack it up and turn the wheel the opposite wheel turns the other direction which I believe is normal. The same thing when I turn the opposite wheel. The parking brake holds. Also, when it's running and I switch the key off it doesn't shut off. The first three pictures are the tractor that's not moving and the last picture is the tractor that works properly. What is my next step in fixing the hydro and also how do I troubleshoot the breakerless ignition so that it shuts off with the key? @pfrederi @daveoman1966 @953 nut anyone else? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,571 #2 Posted June 2, 2020 You should have a ground wire to your key switch. When it’s turned off, it completes the ground path to the ignition wire. I think it’s yellow at the coil? Check to see if that’s been broken somewhere, or that your switch is making the connection? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,135 #3 Posted June 2, 2020 (edited) 38 minutes ago, pullstart said: You should have a ground wire to your key switch. When it’s turned off, it completes the ground path to the ignition wire. I think it’s yellow at the coil? Check to see if that’s been broken somewhere, or that your switch is making the connection? I'm not familiar with the old breakerless ignition and didn't want to burn anything up I heard parts are expensive and hard to get. I converted my other GT-14 to points. I had this just didn't look through it yet looks like the black wire is on the "M" terminal and going to the engine? Edited June 2, 2020 by cafoose Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,571 #4 Posted June 2, 2020 1 hour ago, cafoose said: I'm not familiar with the old breakerless ignition and didn't want to burn anything up I heard parts are expensive and hard to get. I converted my other GT-14 to points. I had this just didn't look through it yet looks like the black wire is on the "M" terminal and going to the engine? yep, that’s the one! Just ground that out and like grounding out points, it’ll kill the engine 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,541 #5 Posted June 2, 2020 10 hours ago, cafoose said: I had time to work on it today and got it started Like @pullstart said, the ignition needs to be grounded to stop the engine. If the wires are all good then the ignition switch would be next. The switch that was used when it was built may not be available so some minor rewiring could bee needed, The rear hubs should be out about four inches as shown in the first couple pictures. 10 hours ago, cafoose said: I went to drive it and it didn't move. I checked the tow valve and it's tight. 10 hours ago, cafoose said: The parking brake holds. I presume the fluid level is good and the belt and idler are both good. A parking brake that holds is a great start and the differential seems OK too. When you engage the belt to drive your Sundstrand pump is the sound the same on both of your GT-14s? With the pump running will the lift work? Is the motion control lever moving the plastic cam up and down as it should? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 35,629 #6 Posted June 2, 2020 Hey Chuck, you say the tow valve is tight. Does that mean you can open and close it, or is it stuck tight. Possibly in the open position. I would also check that the pump input shaft is actually turning when the pulley is turning. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,135 #7 Posted June 2, 2020 2 hours ago, 953 nut said: I presume the fluid level is good and the belt and idler are both good. A parking brake that holds is a great start and the differential seems OK too. When you engage the belt to drive your Sundstrand pump is the sound the same on both of your GT-14s? With the pump running will the lift work? Is the motion control lever moving the plastic cam up and down as it should? I would have to check those items later and let you know. 2 hours ago, Ed Kennell said: Hey Chuck, you say the tow valve is tight. Does that mean you can open and close it, or is it stuck tight. Possibly in the open position. I would also check that the pump input shaft is actually turning when the pulley is turning. It's stuck tight. I will have to check that input shaft. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,129 #8 Posted June 2, 2020 If you can roll the tractor by hand your stuck tow valve is stuck in tow mode so she will not operate under power. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,135 #9 Posted June 2, 2020 4 minutes ago, pfrederi said: If you can roll the tractor by hand your stuck tow valve is stuck in tow mode so she will not operate under power. Good point I forgot to mention the tractor does roll by hand I guess I need to free up the tow valve before I do anything else. I guess penetrating oil would be best? 3 hours ago, 953 nut said: The rear hubs should be out about four inches as shown in the first couple pictures. Wondering why the hubs are 3 to 4 inches out on one tractor and close to the casting on the other? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,129 #10 Posted June 2, 2020 Tow valve is a port type. Try removing the big nut (#67) the whole valve should then pull out. Close in hubs...Somebody replaced eh differential over the years and used the wrong axles.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,135 #11 Posted June 2, 2020 2 hours ago, pfrederi said: Tow valve is a port type. Try removing the big nut (#67) the whole valve should then pull out. @pfrederi which nut are you referring to in this diagram is it 64? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,129 #12 Posted June 2, 2020 Yes fat finger sorry. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,135 #13 Posted June 2, 2020 23 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Yes fat finger sorry. No problem That's why I proofread most of my typing. I use speech to text on my phone because of fat fingers and tiny keyboards Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,135 #15 Posted June 2, 2020 @pfrederi sorry fat fingers sent before typing. I sprayed aero kroil on the tow valve. I can't find a nut behind the tow valve. I tried wiggling it with vice grips and it didn't budge. I checked the fluid level and it's not touching the dipstick. I'm guessing it has ATF in it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,545 #16 Posted June 2, 2020 (edited) hmmm, looks like yours has the same transmission as mine... is it mounted ahead of the rear left wheel? rather than under the seat pan as the diagrams show? looks like the same piston motor as mine. Edited June 2, 2020 by meadowfield 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,135 #17 Posted June 2, 2020 2 minutes ago, meadowfield said: hmmm, looks like yours has the same transmission as mine... is it mounted ahead of the rear left wheel? rather than under the seat pan as the diagrams show? looks like the same piston motor as mine. Yes it is and I had to remove part of the fender to access it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,545 #18 Posted June 2, 2020 Just now, cafoose said: Yes it is and I had to remove part of the fender to access it ahh, I don't feel alone now the valve only moves 90 degrees, tight to the right and loose to the left, then the tractor can be rolled. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,135 #19 Posted June 2, 2020 Just now, meadowfield said: the valve only moves 90 degrees, tight to the right and loose to the left, then the tractor can be rolled. Yes but mine rolls easily with the engine off and the valve is tight and won't move Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,545 #20 Posted June 2, 2020 Just now, cafoose said: Yes but mine rolls easily with the engine off and the valve is tight and won't move did you take the lever off? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,135 #21 Posted June 2, 2020 Just now, meadowfield said: did you take the lever off? No that's how it was when I got it. I think the PO broke it off trying to turn it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
meadowfield 2,545 #22 Posted June 2, 2020 (edited) 2 minutes ago, cafoose said: No that's how it was when I got it. I think the PO broke it off trying to turn it not good, I suggest trying to make a lever and pin if possible to try move it - otherwise its a split the transmission job! this type I think seats to seal the port rather than like a rotary valve Edited June 2, 2020 by meadowfield Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,129 #23 Posted June 2, 2020 Something isn't original here. What year is your GT-14?. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,129 #24 Posted June 2, 2020 Looking at your first picture it looks like a piston to piston not a hydro gear. (Could use a better pic of the hydro motor part to be sure). GT-14s even in 73 didn't come with piston to piston. Guessing yours has been swapped. meadowfield is on the mark your tow valve is a normal screw in screw out valve. many differences between hydro gear and piston to piston 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cafoose 3,135 #25 Posted June 2, 2020 8 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Something isn't original here. What year is your GT-14?. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
