Commando 8 transmission help

[953 nut 59,799]

Place the keys in both ends of the axle assembly and clamp one end in a sturdy vise and use a large pipe wrench against the key on the other end.  With the axle clamped in a vise and the other axle won't turn then in either direction you are probably in good shape.

[ebinmaine 72,443]

@Psychonova68

If you need a replacement spring Wheelhorse parts and more sells them.

 

[stevasaurus 23,274]

Actually, the answer is there is no good way to test a LS transmission when it is out of the case.  I would not do the pipe wrench thing, and here is why.  You are going to be able to turn the pipe wrenched axle with a pipe wrench both ways, so it is not going to tell you anything.  If anything, put the bull gear in the vise and slowly spin one of the axles, the other should go around in the same direction.  Slowly is the key word here...if you spin one axle fast, the other will turn in the opposite direction.  The LS differential is designed to act like a regular differential when you turn the steering wheel...as if going in a circle.  It acts like a Limited Slip only when going in a straight line.  So, if you are going straight, and you end up on ice with one tire spinning and going nowhere...the other tire would keep turning and you would not be stuck.  The LS differential would still have one axle turning in the opposite direction if you turn one tire fast enough.  The only way I know to test the spring strength in a LS transmission is to put the front end of your horse against a post or a tree and let out the clutch in one of the forward gears.  Both tires should spin in the same direction.  Do this on sand, snow or ice.  

   I would open and clean out the differential.  Two reasons...1st, looking at that crud in your trans case...2nd, you have some needle bearings loose in the case somewhere.  It is not a big deal to open the differential, just do not force anything and you will be fine.  

[Psychonova68 36]

Haven't taken the differential apart yet, been trying to figure out what parts I'll need. I could reuse both axles and hubs, but they would need to be welded on again because the keyways are messed up. Need a new input pulley or maybe I can retap the set screw threads. I'm going to replace seals and bearings on axles, input, and brake. Do you guys recommend replacing the handful of springs?

[Psychonova68 36]

Got the differential apart everything looked good except the roll pins on one side had backed out of the gear holder piece, but we're still in the plate. So I'll have to get a couple of those. Should I replace the spring?

[ebinmaine 72,443]

22 minutes ago, Psychonova68 said:

Should I replace the spring?

If it looks REALLY good with minimal to no wear I'd put it back. 

 

Those are $25 or so from Lowell.

 

Probably best to replace while you're in there to be on the safe side.

 

 

Input pulleys can be had used. I would NOT recommend ANY welding because of the high likelihood of damaging the nice new seals you'll be installing.

 

Axles can be repaired.

There's a thread about welding the keyway using a metal other than steel as a spacer. Brass maybe?

 

Hubs could be repaired as well and are still quite plentiful as used pieces.

Lincoln at A-Z Tractor could help you there.... Or if the key is bad but the rest solid you can have new keyways broached.

 

 

You've tripped over what is a VERY capable and desirable Wheelhorse model.

Bringing it back to life will be rewarding when you start to use it and see why....

 

[stevasaurus 23,274]

Need picture of inner spring.   You are probably OK on the handful of springs you are talking about.  The roll pins you are talking about...there is one in the plate and one in the pinion holder...did one actually come out of where it should be.???  Very unusual. Would love a picture of that.  Are you looking at the videos???  Just curious.

[stevasaurus 23,274]

I'm sorry...I see in your picture where the roll pin let loose and is in the other part.  WOW!!...never seen that before, you are lucky that the roll pin did not fall all the way out.  It should be tight in one plate and be able to slip on with the other plate.  You do have aluminum plates...maybe the proper JB weld would be in order.  

[Psychonova68 36]

I've watched your videos and some other guy's (rjvins I believe) on YouTube as well. If you look in the last picture I posted you can see the 2 roll pins sticking out of the end cap, the other end cap and pinion holder are still roll pinned together. Here's a picture of the spring, also should I replace snap rings or thrust washers.

[pfrederi 18,638]

As long as the outside of the spring isn't deeply grooved it should be fine as is.    Unless damaged thrust washers are reusable.  Snap rings  i usually do replace but make sure you get the correct heavy duty (thick) ones.

 

 

[stevasaurus 23,274]

I agree with Paul...that spring looks good.  It is supposed to be bent in a little by the split, so it doesn't catch on the pinions.  I'll bet that the LS differential makes more sense now that you have seen the inside.

   VinsRJ is a member on this site, and his videos are way better then mine.  If you ever come to the WHCC show in June, you can meet him.  Excellent people.  

[Psychonova68 36]

Yesterday I pounded the roll pins back into the pinion holder and they seemed too loose. I gently pried the end cap off and pulled them out of the pinion holder with a pair of channel locks. I measured the roll pin and got .258". Is that a normal measurement for a 1/4" roll pin? Just seemed like it should be a little tighter. Should I try to in weld the pins into the pinion holder or try a couple new pins?

[ebinmaine 72,443]

Not by any means an expert here but I kind of thought your differential was made of aluminum. Welding might not be a good option there.

 

Just did a very quick search online and it looks like .258 should be about right.

 

 

Perhaps the experts should weigh in here.

[Psychonova68 36]

The end cap is aluminum and the pinion holder is steel.

[stevasaurus 23,274]

DO NOT WELD ANY ROLL PINS INTO THOSE END PLATES OR PINION HOLDERS!!!!!!!!!!!  Take the one you have that came out of it's position...look at it carefully and determine why it came out with the plate.  I would try to open it up a little and put it back in...if you can get a new one...go for it.  If you look at the situation, that roll pin is not going to go anywhere and if it is stuck in the other plate...there ya go...it is OK.  

[stevasaurus 23,274]

These transmissions are not for Chevy Corvettes...they are garden tractors...and I mean garden tractors...not ride on lawn mowers.  They are sturdy and will out last most of us.  If you change the oil once in a while, use the horse as it was meant to be used, come to a complete stop before shifting...you will have some thing that will out live you and you can pass down.  Kohlers still have parts, the transmissions still have parts, what else is there??  You will be in that pasture in the sky before that horse.  

[Psychonova68 36]

Copy that, I'll see if I can expand the roll pins a little so they're a little tighter. My concern is that they worked themselves out once already.

[Psychonova68 36]

Is there a good website for converting wheel horse part numbers to Toro part numbers?

[pfrederi 18,638]

25 minutes ago, Psychonova68 said:

Is there a good website for converting wheel horse part numbers to Toro part numbers?

Wheel Horse #s are Toro number.  Now some parts have had number changes over the years.  i usually go here and enter the number in the search box.  If there is a new number usually shows up..

 

https://www.rcpw.com/

[Psychonova68 36]

Will other wheel horse axles work in lieu of the 7202&7203 shafts. I saw some 520 shafts online and they look similar but I can't find anything on their dimensions, the part number is 105875 for the 520 shafts. I'm currently waiting on a couple replacement hubs to see if my hubs are worn out. I spoke to some welders at work who said they could tig weld my one shaft where I ground a little off taking the weld off. I'm figured I'll start amassing extra parts.

[ebinmaine 72,443]

If they're the larger 1-1/8" shaft and the internal attachment is the same.. I'd think they would work.

 

Others will chime in

 

 

[Psychonova68 36]

Here's a picture from one for sale on eBay.

[ebinmaine 72,443]

I'm not advocating one way or the other but almost positive you'll find one less expensive.... But I'm cheap.

 

Have you put a wanted ad on Redsquare?

Or called Lincoln at A-Z?

 

Whole transmission can be had for less.

 

[ebinmaine 72,443]

3 hours ago, Psychonova68 said:

Will other wheel horse axles work in lieu of the 7202&7203 shafts. I saw some 520 shafts online and they look similar but I can't find anything on their dimensions, the part number is 105875 for the 520 shafts. I'm currently waiting on a couple replacement hubs to see if my hubs are worn out. I spoke to some welders at work who said they could tig weld my one shaft where I ground a little off taking the weld off. I'm figured I'll start amassing extra parts.

@953 nut

@Racinbob

@dclarke

@pfrederi

@stevasaurus

 

What say the experts?

 

[stevasaurus 23,274]

The axles in the 10 pinion LS transmissions are different lengths...the axles in the 8 pinion differentials are the same lengths...in other words a pair, but neither one is the same length as one of the axles in the 10 pinion.  The part numbers will tell you that.  If an axle was the same as another in another transmission...it would have the same part number.  The only thing in common...they are 1 1/8" diameter...so you can put any 1 1/8" axle in your transmission...but you will have to deal with the distance the hub is from the transaxle end of axle housing.