Picked up an RJ58 yesterday

[RedHorse54 578]

Picked this RJ58 up yesterday from @SPINJIM  . The Clinton B1290 needs a new oil pan that fits the bolt pattern on the frame.  (Oil pan on it now is in pics)  Does anyone know if I can put a different Clinton oil pan on it to fit the bolt pattern? This tractor originally had a Clinton b1290 I believe and if they were original on the RJ58s there must be a different oil pan I can use. If anyone has one I'd be interested. Also, does anyone know how to paint it, and make the paint look old and patina looking? I need to paint the spot on the hood patina looking because I'm going to keep this tractor the way it is. Also, I'm going to swap the transmission. I have one but its for a 400 suburban. It's the same trans, but will it fit on this tractor and work? And will I still be able to use the original RJ58 belt guard if I switch them? 

[953 nut 60,166]

Take a look at this article from an old cope of a street rod magazine. 

Don't think you will be able to match up the original paint on a touch up.

[Wishin4a416 2,191]

That is a very nice project tractor! Good Luck.

[wallfish 18,154]

Try contacting Charlie  @clintonnut  He's not on here too much anymore but a PM should still send him an email. Probably has the oil pan you need.

The problem with using the suburban trans is the location of the brake band tab. put both transmissions near each other and you'll see what needs to be done. RJ foot pedal pulls the linkage, suburbans push it and the pulley on the RJ rides outside the belt loop and suburbans are inside.

[RedHorse54 578]

5 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Try contacting Charlie  @clintonnut  He's not on here too much anymore but a PM should still send him an email. Probably has the oil pan you need.

The problem with using the suburban trans is the location of the brake band tab. put both transmissions near each other and you'll see what needs to be done. RJ foot pedal pulls the linkage, suburbans push it and the pulley on the RJ rides outside the belt loop and suburbans are inside.

Thank you wallfish. And would it be possible to switch them? If so how would I exactly do it?

[wallfish 18,154]

Couple of different ways to do it. You'll need to change the clutch/pulley parts if keeping the RJ pedal.

1.Change the side plate

2.Cut the tab and weld to RJ location

3. Make a new modified linkage to pull the brake band.

 

 

[ACman 7,655]

Ok , I'm no expert but from what I've learned in my short time in this hobby , is that looks more like a late 59 . I'm saying this because that's how my 59 looks , with the solid seat pan . This is how it was explained to me when I bought mine . As you know the Ponds were pretty frugal and used what they had on hand . The solid seat was used in 1960 as was the Clinton engine . Not saying someone could have changed them . Do you have the I.d. Tag ? Try posting the casting #'s on the trans too . As for the trans you'll have to use the left side of the original trans , and break/clutch , idle arm assembly . The RJ and Sububan used a different setup on the left side plate . Read @stevasaurus thread (so you want to rebuild that three piece trans) lots of good info there . As for your hood maybe a good airbrusher . Hey RJ 58/59 who cares , it's an RJ . Here's a pic of my so called 59 when I bought it  .

 

good on luck on you new project   ! I see I'm a little late with the trans info .

[RedHorse54 578]

8 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Couple of different ways to do it. You'll need to change the clutch/pulley parts if keeping the RJ pedal.

1.Change the side plate

2.Cut the tab and weld to RJ location

3. Make a new modified linkage to pull the brake band.

 

 

 

1 minute ago, ACman said:

Ok , I'm no expert but from what I've learned in my short time in this hobby , is that looks more like a late 59 . I'm saying this because that's how my 59 looks , with the solid seat pan . This is how it was explained to me when I bought mine . As you know the Ponds were pretty frugal and used what they had on hand . The solid seat was used in 1960 as was the Clinton engine . Not saying someone could have changed them . Do you have the I.d. Tag ? Try posting the casting #'s on the trans too . As for the trans you'll have to use the left side of the original trans , and break/clutch , idle arm assembly . The RJ and Sububan used a different setup on the left side plate . Read @stevasaurus thread (so you want to rebuild that three piece trans) lots of good info there . As for your hood maybe a good airbrusher . Hey RJ 58/59 who cares , it's an RJ . Here's a pic of my so called 59 when I bought it  .

 

good on luck on you new project   ! I see I'm a little late with the trans info .

Big thanks guys, this will defiantly help. and can I take the left plate off the transmissions without rebuilding them? 

[wallfish 18,154]

Might as well have a look around in there while you have it open and make that determination then.

[RedHorse54 578]

2 minutes ago, wallfish said:

Might as well have a look around in there while you have it open and make that determination then.

Yeah I'll have to see what's inside. But when I take off the plate, do have a choice to rebuilt it or not? Or would I have no choice but to rebuild it because the plates off?

Edited September 4, 2016 by RedHorse54

[ACman 7,655]

Do you think there's something wrong with the original trans ? 

[RedHorse54 578]

1 minute ago, ACman said:

Do you think there's something wrong with the original trans ? 

Yeah after a few seconds of rolling it, it rolls real hard like its locking up

Edited September 4, 2016 by RedHorse54

[ACman 7,655]

Put it in neutral and pull the shifter and pour in some diesel or kerosene . Put shifter back in roll it around . Drain it and repeat acouple times , it might free up . @stevasaurus and @Racinbob are the guys you need , @Jake Kuhn knows this stuff too , and also offers rebuild kits , parts and gaskets.

[SPINJIM 1,986]

Hey Jacob.

Before you split the trans to switch side plates, read the PM I just sent.   I may be able to help you out.

  Jim

[Racinbob 11,957]

Your RJ uses a 5003 transmission and the Suburban uses a 5010. As it's already been mentioned the idler arm operates in opposite directions. The 5003 has a flat idler pulley and pushes on the back of the drive belt to tension it and the 5010 has a v-groove pulley and out on the belt. The clutch rod is connected to the pedal above the pivot point on the 5003, below on the 5010. With that being said the transmissions are identical except for the brake band tab. The 5003 is vertical, the 5010 at a 45 degree angle. The belt guards are not interchangeable. You could reweld the tab but since you already have the parts I would suggest swapping the left side plate. It would be the easiest especially since the standard procedure is to put the transmission in a vice with the left side up and remove that plate first. Better yet, do what @ACman suggested and flush it out. Pull the side plate and have a look. Pulling the side plate does not require you to go any further but you need to find the cause of your problem. Intimidating? Sure. But once you do it you will chuckle at how simple it is. You'll at least need a new side plate gasket which you can get from @Jake Kuhn or they are easy to make from auto store gasket material. Here's an excellent thread on these transmissions:

Keep us posted and remember that we are always here to help out.

Edited September 4, 2016 by Racinbob

[RedHorse54 578]

49 minutes ago, Racinbob said:

Your RJ uses a 5003 transmission and the Suburban uses a 5010. As it's already been mentioned the idler arm operates in opposite directions. The 5003 has a flat idler pulley and pushes on the back of the drive belt to tension it and the 5010 has a v-groove pulley and out on the belt. The clutch rod is connected to the pedal above the pivot point on the 5003, below on the 5010. With that being said the transmissions are identical except for the brake band tab. The 5003 is vertical, the 5010 at a 45 degree angle. The belt guards are not interchangeable. You could reweld the tab but since you already have the parts I would suggest swapping the left side plate. It would be the easiest especially since the standard procedure is to put the transmission in a vice with the left side up and remove that plate first. Better yet, do what @ACman suggested and flush it out. Pull the side plate and have a look. Pulling the side plate does not require you to go any further but you need to find the cause of your problem. Intimidating? Sure. But once you do it you will chuckle at how simple it is. You'll at least need a new side plate gasket which you can get from @Jake Kuhn or they are easy to make from auto store gasket material. Here's an excellent thread on these transmissions:

Keep us posted and remember that we are always here to help out.

Thanks for the info its a big help. And if the belt guards arent interchangeable, shouldn't I switch both side plates? I'd want to make the RJ belt guard fit the suburban trans

Edited September 4, 2016 by RedHorse54

[Racinbob 11,957]

If you use the left side plate from the 5003 (RJ) on the 5010 (Suburban) and keep the RJ idler setup that you already have the RJ belt guard will work. The right side plates are identical on both transmissions so there's no need to change that side. Keep in mind that the only thing different between the 5003 and 5010 is that left side plate.

[RedHorse54 578]

12 minutes ago, Racinbob said:

If you use the left side plate from the 5003 (RJ) on the 5010 (Suburban) and keep the RJ idler setup that you already have the RJ belt guard will work. The right side plates are identical on both transmissions so there's no need to change that side. Keep in mind that the only thing different between the 5003 and 5010 is that left side plate.

So is it this side, or the other side I need to change?

[Racinbob 11,957]

Right and left are always considered as you sit in the seat. That side is the right. You want to change the other side with the brake drum. It looks like you need a new pulley for the motor.

[RedHorse54 578]

Okay cool thanks, now I understand. And yeah, I'm going to try to get a new one soon

[Racinbob 11,957]

Cool. Keep us posted. If you're going to swap the plates I strongly suggest that you go through the transmission while you have it off. Check the bearings, gears and replace the seals. The seals can be done without opening up the transmission and are readily available EXCEPT for the axle seals. Be careful with those. Make sure to emory the axle before you slide the plate off. You don't want any burrs and there will be some you need to remove. Those axle seals are hit and miss on availability. Mostly miss these days. Again, Jake Kuhn can help you out with parts and maybe those seals as well.