Good Time to Post my Progress

[Tuneup 1,433]

Hi all,

 

I was finally able to take a week off and lost myself in catching-up on the '80 C-125. I've had the engine sitting rebuilt on the bench - repaired the Hi/Lo last year -  and was finally able to run her in last Tuesday after mounting. She only needed rings and a good valve lap. There is no end to the money that can be spent on a restoration or the amount of time in grinding, priming and painting with old Regal Red. At this rate, it will be summer before I'm done but it will have been worth the love. The 42" deck can use some minor welding but I had everything operational before I tore her down. Too much repair to list as this poor girl was buried in a southern backyard. Enjoy the pics - August last year after dragging it onto the trailer, this past Tuesday for break-in and just a few minutes ago. Back to work tomorrow so no more fun all day in the garage but should at least have the covers on when the Jacks belt and PTO brake order gets here later in the week.

[elcamino/wheelhorse 9,290]

Looking good. Keep us updated on the progress.

[bds1984 1,428]

I had the same thoughts when I was working on my C165 refresh last year.  Trust me, it'll be worth it in the end!

 

[tunahead72 2,400]

Very nice.

 

Just curious...  If I'm seeing your photos correctly, it looks like you've been experimenting with your exhaust system a bit.  What kind of muffler is on it now, and how does it compare to the original?

 

[AMC RULES 37,124]

Great job so far.  

[Tuneup 1,433]

Thanks, guys! Yes, the wife would rather I dabble in this than locate some old car for restoration. Less $$. She won't think so when it's time to order the tires, though.

 

That original nelson muffler was in pieces so I had one made by a lister and it's very good but doesn't clear the low hanging branches in the yard. Picked-up the one shown at Ace Hardware down here - just the standard item and it's quiet enough. May go back to the mini stack just because it's so unique.

[Thor27 767]

Looks great so far!

[JC 1965 1,530]

Lookin great, keep the pics coming.    

[Racinbob 11,029]

Looking great. Can't wait to see her finished.

[Tuneup 1,433]

So, since several wanted to see more...bending over this machine has my back saying NO for a few days so...

 

I have an order at Jack's that is being held for a single part - hate that. The springs on this were shot so the brake, clutch and emer-brake springs are in the order. The drive belt is a little long for the linkage so I ordered another for comparison. Next are the the Tach-Matic, dash and seat pan for paint and installation.

 

Blessed eBay found me a replacement PTO rod after I snapped the adjustment on the original. The clutch rod tried to do the same but a soaking in my cleaner fluid overnight budged it (gas - kero - mineral spirits). The front rims and tires from eBay as the originals were a no match. These are perfect and need only paint. The tires are actually OK for use! Steering wheel held on by a screwdriver so I can get her out in the sun to bake and before finishing the dash. That wheel pin was a bi$#% ! Decal kits are the bomb!

 

Two questions for y'all:

Is there any normal way to route the fuel hose? The former owner, red of neck here in Georgia, took a too-large diameter line and just threw it on the machine. I am thinking under frame but would like to know the original route if anyone knows.

Second. I attached the battery ground to the end of the regulator bracket to the left of the solenoid. It's the bolt that is shared as the top attachment for the drive belt cover - close to the regulator for a clean ground. Where was the original attached? I think there but it's been too long and I took no starting pictures. My bad.

 

[Tuneup 1,433]

Jacks delivered today so all the springs are in. The belt was significantly shorter which is good. Off came the covers and plenty of adjustments made so now I have working pedals! I don't like the original ampere gauge - jumpy and nearly trashed. I'll use the old SW amp and Volts gauges I saved from my long lost Olds. Finishing the wiring tomorrow. Sweet machine.

[c-series don 8,649]

The fuel line goes to the left of the trans dipstick then to the right of the shifters. Then through the large rubber grommet under the shifter plate, then to the right of the steering shaft. This is where I usually cut in an inline filter, before the engine block. It's not factory but it's a good spot out of the way and looks factory.Kind of where the battery was on the older C-series.The line then goes under the flywheel shroud to the fuel pump. I will go look at my unmolested C-165 Auto to see where the ground wire goes. I really appreciate your attention to detail and keeping it factory. That's how I have to do it!!! Keep up the good work! 

[Tuneup 1,433]

Thanks! 7 feet of fresh line for tomorrow. Through the grommet - got it. Looking forward to hearing more, thanks again.

[c-series don 8,649]

As far as your ground wire goes, on my C-165 with the battery posts away from you and the negative on the left, the wire goes from the post to the top bolt that holds on the plate that the voltage regulator is bolted to. However on what I believe is all original, my C-161 it goes right hand post to the bolt that holds the hood support to the dash tower. It almost seems like the guy on the assembly line put it where he wanted! Hope I didn't confuse you!! 

[Tuneup 1,433]

Nope, it's all good, thanks. Finally got to put fuel in her and the valve promptly leaked. Never did that before so, another part to purchase. Since the wiring is done, fired it up and ran like junk - I had the capacitor hanging - not grounded. Fixed that and rode it side saddle around the yard, showing it off a bit. Good feeling. Lots of sanding for the pan and a seat to buy so in a week it's time to work the deck. The hood needs some straightening and I'm not looking forward to it. Dash needs the highlighting done on the lettering - hesitating.

[c-series don 8,649]

Lovin' those gauges! I painted my dash with one of those silver paint pens. A fine tipped one works best. Then one day I got the brilliant idea to clean the dash with WD-40 and it smeared all over! So I would not recommend that cleaning method. Prior to the WD it looked great. Keep up the good work! 

[Tuneup 1,433]

Thanks! I had a full SW Stage III set in my Olds and knew they'd be handy someday, if it took 25 years. I found a cheap mini roller with a sponge nap that just might finish that dash - or ruin it. We shall see

[Tuneup 1,433]

Update - the freshly leaking tank has been repaired with Seal All from Ace, my home away from home. Thanks for the tip! More fasteners to get the 500 series fender pan attached and a Northern Tools seat which is very nice for $65 (and not as big as it looks in the pics). Sharpie makes an oil based silver pen the wife found for me that lettered the dash very nicely. The hood is a mess so comes later.

 

Anyway, problem #35 has appeared. The regulator didn't like being properly connected for long and the gauges began going nuts after a few minutes of proper showing - discharging and then charging. After that, the regulator let go and she's sending a good 17V to the battery. At least this is where I shine. I could make a regulator and probably have some from the old Honda days laying around but I really don't want to redneck this machine after it came back from being buried in a yard. Will have to ponder this regulator thing while I hammer and play with the hood and paint the deck. Engine has a minor miss I attribute to the old high tension lead - goes infinite when you bend it. It's been a long road but it's finally to a state where I can show it to the old boy that gave it to me. He'll be 92 this year and is considering giving me the other WH he has in the yard but he still tills with it - needs work...

[Tuneup 1,433]

A big thank you to the list! Someone mentioned RuGlide at NAPA. I'm pretty cheap - will not spend if I can find another way - so always used soapy water to mount tires. Plenty of frustration and many motorcycle tires over the years which can be a bear. I sprung for a bottle of RuGlide, applied it liberally with a brush and mounted the fronts on the newly painted (Krylon Antique White) rims in just a minute or two. I used the old milk bottle shards to protect the rims from scratches. That stuff is slick as snot. Sweetness - thank you!

 

On to mounting the 10.5 Ags next Monday or Tuesday if I can get the wheels completed - too blasted humid out there today to continue. Mule drive painted, pulleys on order. Deck wheels as well. Happy weekend!

[AMC RULES 37,124]

  Put some in an old Windex bottle...

and spritz 'em down a couple times during the year. 

Really helps keep the ol' dry rot away too.    

[Tuneup 1,433]

Yup - just need a spare bottle. Anyone have any ideas on what to use out there as a hub cap? 103565 no longer available.

[c-series don 8,649]

Tell me about this milk bottle trick you speak of? Please, thank you ! Anti-scratching ? 

[doc724 925]

Spare hub cap?  I assume you are talking about the front hubs?  Glen Pettit in the RS vendors section sells replica ones. 

[Tuneup 1,433]

Glen, what again? I've already sent him $$ twice

 

The anti-scratch milk carton use was told me in the motorcycle days so that the aluminum rims weren't scratched. Take the usual plastic milk carton and cut strips. Thin plastic but durable - they tuck nicely behind the rim for the irons. I found that using RuGlide made it more difficult to use the plastic. Kept slipping. Had the boys drinking milk until the bottle emptied.

[Tuneup 1,433]

The 10.5 Deerstones went on easily enough with that RuGlide. No damage to the rims. The Krylon XXX antique white looks great and hardened much faster than the Rust Oleum Regal Red. Mounted the first and found that they fit with almost no adjustment to the hubs. I had moved them out a 1/2" based on the 9.6" claim of width but miscalculated - moved them back almost all the way. Very nice. Hopped on and fired her up. She ran for 5 minutes and died. Coil from NAPA with about 2 hours on it went south - primary open. Shame they don't warrant those things. Have another and she's back in form.  Now, to tackle that bent hood. I'll post a pic or two when the sun gets higher.

 

Question: What can be used as a foot rest material? The replacements are ridiculously expensive. I had thought of some thin diamond plate that Home Depot sells but would rather have something with traction and more like the original. There's got to be some tread somewhere. Little help?