The RJ58 was the big hit for spectators this year at my local festivals here in Carroll County OH.
the children loved getting their pictures sitting on it, then they discovered the bicycle horn under the steering wheel. It’s always a joy even in parades. Just love showing off part of my collection every year and hearing all the stories from those that had WH in their lives at one time. Can hardly wait to get to retirement so I can get some of my other models back to their glory in working order and be able to attend other shows/festivals throughout the year. My fellow tractor enthusiasts always know when a spectacular starts asking about WH, they point in my direction. I study up on the history of the different models and always intrigue those that didn’t know much about how WH came to be. This website is one place that has helped me learn so much about the WH history and I thank you for sharing your knowledge that I am able to pass on to keep WH alive and well.
By Bill Winn
For sale. 1981 WH C-175 Kohler twin series 1
1. Tractor has brand new ag tires all the way around, brand new seat, new points and condenser, new rear blade quick attach bracket, lights have been rewired with LEDs, it has a brand new lift cable and bracket,seat pan is from a 410... it's surface rusted but at least it isn't busted up like the oem plastic one, starts and runs but smokes a bit on startup if it's been sitting for months but she runs smooth and strong.
2. Tiller is like new. It had been used only about once when I bought it and now it has been used 4 times more. Tines still have much of the factory paint on them.
3. 42" mower deck works perfectly, 4. snow blade was/ is rough but I repaired it so it is quite functional,
4. Brand new rear grader blade,
5. Wheel Horse brand plow,
6. Wheel Horse brand disc- I added a piece of motorgrader blade for a drag. I also welded a post to the top to hold weights,
7. Wheel Horse brand cultivator,
8. Home built furrower. (Makes good rows)
The original Wheel Horse plow/disc/cultivator originally came as a modular kit and in order to use it the draw bar and clevis hitch had to be swapped back and forth. (big pain) I fabricated draw bars and hitches onto each piece so this is no longer necessary.
I think this is a fair asking price at $2200 for all.
Anyone have any Troy Bilt Pony Tiller Gear Box Experience?
So about a year ago an older neighbor gave me this Troy Bilt Pony Rear Tine tiller. Said he forgot he drained the engine oil and started it. Bore diameter was actually good, but has a bunch of large vertical scars on cylinder walls.
Fast forward, my wife has volunteered us to help a Youth Summer Camp that runs an "Outdoor School" during the 9mth school year. They had a fairly large garden for several years, but it has been neglected & overgrown for a couple of years. So she drives past this neglected garden daily!
There's some scheme emerging where we have half the garden to ourselves and help with the other half where students will plant and weed and pick their produce. I enjoy a garden, but not real keen on some of the aspects on this one...( a bunch of 6" high raised beds with paths to narrow for my big feet to turn sideways. But I've already been committed, O I mean volunteered.
So engine is shot (aluminum block) but I have a Predator or a K181 I could put on it.
The wheel shaft seals looked shot and had a bunch of play so brass wheel bushings were shot. (the other 2 shafts have tapered roller bearings).
No model number, but from the "Pxxxxx" serial number and Briggs engine I've dated it to a 1981.
MTD now owns Troy Bilt and their "on-line manuals" go back to 2000. Called their Tech Supports and got "Deer in the Headlite" comments regarding a 1981 Service Manual.
Searched online and founds lots more info on the larger "Horse" model, and a 1991 Pony service manual.
While they basically look the same, there's been several generations of re-engineering the internals to simplify manufacturing and eliminate castings it appears.
I found this parts diagram to be the close's match to what I have.
I disassembled it and I think I marked everything as to what faced the front, back or R,L side. Internals looked OK, but the wheel shaft seal area is not the greatest.
Most parts are NLA but found bearing. seals & bushings on ebay. $130
Reassembled everything and used the 1991 Service Manual as a "Guide" to shimming the 3 shafts end play.
Everything turn freely in both directions when in neutral. But when I engage the Wheel Shaft "Clutch" it binds up. The clutch lets the wheels roll freely or engages them to power. It uses belt idlers to reverse direction from a second shaft on the briggs (like a walk behind snow blower drive)
photo from phone here
This internal clutch actually works by using a pawl disc which is keyed to the shaft to engage the wheel
shaft gear which is free wheeling on the shaft.
I've loosened the bolt on the bearing end caps slightly and no change.
This uses worm gears and I know "some" worm gears are designed where they must be "power driven" in each direction (My boat lift is like this)
So the rear tine gear shaft turn freely in each direction.
The wheel shaft locks up when the clutch is engaged amd trying to turn it in what would be the forward direction. But it will turn freely with the clutch engaged if going in the backwards direction.
The wheel shaft gear cannot be turned backwards because of the clutch mechanism on the one side.
The rear tine shaft bevel gear turn freely in both direction in neutral but is bound up when the clutch on the wheel shaft is engaged.??
There is a Main Drive Shaft that has the Worm Gears on it to drive the Wheel Gear and a second worm to drive the Tines Gear.
This shaft is made up of a smooth shaft with the worms keyed to it and spacers in between them. I disassembled it (and carefully laid out each piece in order) to wire brush everything clean on the grinder as there was some rust from water in the very bottom of the gearbox.
I find it hard to believe that I could have one of the worms backwards because it seems it would not turn freely when the wheel clutch is not engaged??
To remove it I have to disassemble everything and might ruin my seals as I have to drive them out. (dumb me, I tested everything to turn freely before I installed the seals, BUT I didn't engage the clutch)
Just a note,, I didn't try to turn everything with the "clutch engaged" "Before" I disassembled it so I don't know how hard it should turn, but it had to turn via a belt drive verse's now totally locking up.
Regrettable a nonworking tiller doesn't get me out being volunteered.
Did I say I actually enjoy a garden!
Thanks for any suggestions and listening to my rant.
This is the input shaft from belt pulley
Special woodruff key
Tiller Tine Shaft
Some one was in here before me. These are threaded holes with removable set screws to drive the bearing cone out. No set screws just filled with caulk or body putty.
Illustrated parts list
6 pages 3.73MB
Illustrated parts list #A-7136
Includes PSB #023 #052 #058 #060 #080
10 pages 938.48KB
Engines used according to Toro
Electric start kit
Electric starter kit model EC-35 for Clinton engine - Listed for 1958 and 1959
Electric starter kit model EK-35 for Kohler engine - Listed for 1958 and 1959
6-12 tire chains model TC-12 - Listed for 1958 and 1959
Seat cushion Foam rubber with imitation leather cover model FC-24 - Listed for 1958 and 1959
Transmission drive belt 1567 - (4L x 29" or 1/2" x 29")
Details & Attachments
2 pages 107.33KB
1958 model RJ-58
1958 serial numbers that have shown up for the RJ-58
Early models used Kohler K90T-27107D equipped with a Schnacke recoil unit with a backup rope starter contained under the recoil assembly and an oil bath air filter.
01099 - No casting date on trans. Leather gearshift boot, large, round rear wheel hubs, "slab" hitch, replacement engine
01188 - Has round rear wheel hubs
01789 - No casting date on trans. Leather gearshift boot, 3-ear triangular rear wheel hubs, "slab" hitch, Clinton engine with Schnacke recoil
03501 - Located in UK
03796 - Kohler K90T-27107D with serial 364044 equipped with a Schnacke recoil unit with a backup rope starter contained under the recoil assembly and an oil bath air filter.
06528 - May be 16528
07649 - Transmission J12-8 October 12, 1958
09337 - Hard to read
11628 - # 3521 spline gear with 10 splines changed to 11 splines in 5003 and 5010 transmissions at serial # 11628 PSB #023
12221 - B3-9 trans casting date - Kohler K91 engine with Schnacke recoil
16528 - May be 06528
16868 - F4-9 trans casting date - Kohler K91 engine with Fairbanks recoil, solid pan seat without holes
18500 and lower
Late 1958 units came with a Kohler K-91T-31307A equipped with a Schnacke recoil unit with a backup rope starter contained under the recoil assembly and an oil bath air filter.
Details & Attachments
2 pages 106.94KB
1959 model RJ-59
1959 serial numbers that have shown up for the RJ-59
Early 1959 units came with a Kohler K-91T-31307A equipped with a Schnacke recoil unit with a backup rope starter contained under the recoil assembly and an oil bath air filter.
18501 and up - Possible 1100 units built
20078 - Located in UK
21900 - 1960 Suburban 400 began production at serial #21900 somewhere around Aug-Oct 1959.
Late model RJ-59 tractors with a Kohler would have a K-91T-31388A with the Fairbanks recoil starter and paper air filter element. The 31388A was also used on the 1960 Suburban 400.
K91T-31388A Serial 425251 found on RJ-59
Anyone be able to measure out the Top Link Bar for the 50” D Series Tiller?
Just finished rebuilding a tiller, have a adjustable type but would like to put a original type on like the manual has listed.