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New to Me 1977 Wheel Horse C-160

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Lee1977

Purple Power is hard on paint It will take some off. The alienator is behind the flywheel I wouldn't used it on it. I personally wouldn't used Purple Power on anything I wasn't going to repaint on my Wheel Horses.. I used engine cleaner and Dawn and a brush on the Raider.

I would used compress air behind the flywheel if I wasn't going to remove it. 

Edited by Lee1977
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Blasterdad
On 4/16/2023 at 2:51 PM, kpinnc said:

 

Take that clutch brake off and throw it as far as you can into the woods. Wait until dark and go look for it without a flashlight. If you find it, reinstall it. :blink: It serves no real purpose unless you have no belt on the PTO.

                                       :text-yeahthat:

LOL, I have a neat little pile of them, just don't have the heart to toss them because they're an original :wh: part, & you never know when an L bracket with burnt up asbestos riveted to it might come in handy...:rolleyes:

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ebinmaine

We've been known to combine compressed air and the shop vac to clean out engines we aren't painting. 

Sometimes a screwdriver or other  pointed instrument of cleanerating.  

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ebinmaine

Double post delete 

Edited by ebinmaine

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Horse Newbie

So I am thinking about pulling the flywheel… what do you guys think about putting pressure on the flywheel with a pry bar and giving the crank a whack with a hammer ? ( The Taryl Dactyl method)

FA23205E-87EB-44DB-85F1-640248F998DE.jpeg

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oliver2-44
38 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

So I am thinking about pulling the flywheel… what do you guys think about putting pressure on the flywheel with a pry bar and giving the crank a whack with a hammer ? ( The Taryl Dactyl method)

FA23205E-87EB-44DB-85F1-640248F998DE.jpeg

The stator will thank you for pulling the flywheel. Every one I’ve pulled has been just packed filthy with dust, grease and grass under there. Yes, the pry bar method should work. But, you should be able to get a loaner puller from Oreily or other auto supplies to put pressure on the flywheel, then you still give the end of the crankshaft a sharp rap to make it pop loose.  Put the nut back on the end of the crank to protect the threads and prevent swelling the end of the crankshaft. I have a brass hammer just for that job. 

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oliver2-44
On 4/16/2023 at 6:21 PM, Horse Newbie said:

So how many are thinking to themselves “ Horse Newbie, now that you’ve went that far, may as well decarbon the head”…?

BB28E6DC-0BFF-4583-9535-5C2D1CEAA6F1.jpeg

While your decarboning the head pull the carb and clean it. Then while your that far pull and clean the breather, Then  pull, clean and lap the valves and check their clearance.  

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kpinnc

A short piece of flat bar with two holes drilled will pull the flywheel safety. 

 

There are usually two tapped 3/8 holes on either side of the flywheel nut. They are for adding a shaft to run things from the flywheel side, but double nicely to make a puller as well.

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Horse Newbie
23 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

But, you should be able to get a loaner puller from Oreily or other auto supplies to put pressure on the flywheel, then you still give the end of the crankshaft a sharp rap to make it pop loose

So if the puller is on there putting pressure on the flywheel , then how do I give the crankshaft a sharp rap ?

@oliver2-44

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kpinnc
3 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

So if the puller is on there putting pressure on the flywheel , then how do I give the crankshaft a sharp rap ?

 

I've never had to strike one, and do not recommend it. You never strike a cast iron flywheel. Did I mention NEVER?

 

If you use the flat bar like I describe above, and two long bolts- it'll pop right off. And I do mean "pop"... 

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, kpinnc said:

I've never had to strike one, and do not recommend it. You never strike a cast iron flywheel. Did I mention NEVER?

 

The smackage mentioned above is done on the PULLER which is a direct connection to the crankshaft.  

 

   NO    whacking tapping smacking directly on  the flywheel should occur.  

 

FWIW.   The Tecumseh manual mentions a "special tool" that is literally a long nut that threads onto the end of the crankshaft. 

It's a smack receiver.   🙄

 

 

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Horse Newbie

@ebinmaine and @kpinnc,

 

I went to Horror Fright and got this…

and I didn’t have to smack it…

popped right off…

Take a look and give me the rundown.

Is the crud level behind the flywheel bad or not, with 5 being the worst you’ve seen and 1 being the best ?

What would be an acceptable cleaning agent or method for behind there… stator and all ?

Also, how can I check the stator electrically speaking ?… measure resistance ?

332BCAA2-1EF6-4CE5-A9B4-DE484D15A104.jpeg

A112E0B7-6791-4F3C-ABF0-1BA7C9701248.jpeg

DB157EE1-FA8D-457E-8A44-F0B8C8D60D6D.jpeg

2C831EAE-1ADB-476F-A986-B17E634BF41A.jpeg

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ebinmaine

Nice work popping that off there.  

 

Crud level... 3, 3.5 I'd say on my charts. 

 

Not sure on a cleaner. I'm thinking brake clean? @Achto

 

I believe a bench test can be done. I'm unfamiliar with the procedure.  

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Horse Newbie
4 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

I believe a bench test can be done. I'm unfamiliar with the procedure.

:eek: Whaaaaaaatttt, I thought you was the C series guru/ grand master/ ninja/ etc, etc…

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Horse Newbie

Got the, as Taryl would say, muffkin off…

I did whack it a little…

took a small punch and separated the part that slides over the exhaust nipple that comes off the engine…

image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg

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Horse Newbie

Okay fellows…

Please throw me some suggestions as to what to use to clean the stator, and how to bench test the stator.

Also if any of you would email me a copy of the Kohler service manual for this engine, I will be glad to print it out and read it so I don’t have to ask you guys stuff like testing the stator.

I download files to this iPhone, then I can’t retrieve them.

PM me if you are will and I will give you my email address..

Thanks to all !

image.jpg

Edited by Horse Newbie
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Achto
46 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Not sure on a cleaner. I'm thinking brake clean?

 

29 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

Please throw me some suggestions as to what to use to clean the stator, and how to bench test the stator.

 

Brake cleaner would be just fine on the fly wheel, heck even a brass brush to get the big chunks off.

 

Brake cleaner would also work on the stator, but an electrical contact cleaner may be better suited for the job.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-Electronic-Cleaner-Quick-Dry-for-Sensitive-Electronics-11-oz/16817418?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=2986&adid=2222222227716817418_117755028669_12420145346&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=501107745824&wl4=aud-1651068664706:pla-294505072980&wl5=9019452&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=16817418&wl13=2986&veh=sem_LIA&gclid=CjwKCAjwov6hBhBsEiwAvrvN6LuAGmCRzLdM3eNrwAGspQCc-ZV6XYMyUKV5NEpyLyJLXHkl8QFeihoCWJAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

About the only bench test that I can offer on the stator is a continuity test. You should have continuity between the two wires that come out of the stator. (fairly low resistance) There should be NO continuity from either stator wire to the block.

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Horse Newbie
8 minutes ago, Achto said:

fairly low resistance

What is considered low ?

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ebinmaine
48 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

I download files to this "smartphone" , then I can’t retrieve them

That's what I do!!!

:rolleyes:

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Achto
2 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

What is considered low ?

 

I would think less that 10ohms

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Horse Newbie
1 minute ago, Achto said:

 

I would think less that 10ohms

I believe I can test the stator…

I bought me a DMM at Horror Fright a year or so ago… the $7 one… it never worked even once.

When I was there the other day I stepped up a little and got a “ not as cheap “ one.

Hope I have better luck with it. It got good reviews … FWIW…

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Horse Newbie

@953 nut,

I seen where you gave me a teardrop smiley face reaction on my post where I was talking about “smacking” the end of the crank shaft while prying on the flywheel…

Then you gave a “Wheel Horse” excellent reaction on the post where I said I removed the flywheel with a Bolt Type Wheel Puller…

Guess I know your feelings concerning pulling a gear or such…

:laughing-rolling:

 

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953 nut
On 4/18/2023 at 4:14 PM, Horse Newbie said:

( The Taryl Dactyl method)

 

5 minutes ago, Horse Newbie said:

@953 nut,

I seen where you gave me a teardrop smiley face reaction on my post where I was talking about “smacking” the end of the crank shaft while prying on the flywheel…

Then you gave a “Wheel Horse” excellent reaction on the post where I said I removed the flywheel with a Bolt Type Wheel Puller…

Guess I know your feelings concerning pulling a gear or such…

:laughing-rolling:

 

It was the mention of the You Tube's biggest idiot that I was reacting to.  Many of his videos that I have watched are cringeworthy.  If you have a brass hammer go ahead and give it a smack.

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Horse Newbie
9 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

 

It was the mention of the You Tube's biggest idiot that I was reacting to.  Many of his videos that I have watched are cringeworthy.  If you have a brass hammer go ahead and give it a smack.

I got it… the right way…

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kpinnc
3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

It's a smack receiver. 

 

Hey me too! :lol: I'm a special tool! 

 

Prolly not the first time I've been called one, come to think of it!

 

My bad. I skimmed the post and should have re-readed it. :rolleyes:

Edited by kpinnc
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