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I figured I should get in a ride while the getting is good because of the uncertain weather conditions nowadays. I used the Side x Side to pack roughly 6 '' of snow on the ground. The 418-A is my mowing tractor and it's nice to get behind the wheel with no mower deck and wind it up some. This was on Thursday after lunch.

So as may of you know in September I bought a 1257. We fully rebuilt the transmission. I got a new ignition switch a few weeks ago and put that in. Then we got snow so it got pushed to the back. Today we finally brought it back in. Cleaned the points and it fired right up. More to come later today. IMG_1453.mov

Todays adventure - rebuild the steering system. To start off I turned a portion of 5/8" stock down to 9/16" and threaded it to 12 pitch. Next drill a hole in it and tap the inside of it to 3/8-24. Then use a parting tool to cut it to length. OK, what am I building here ?? Remember the fan gear that the PO messed up by welding the drag link to it? The hole in it was too large for a heal-a-coil. So I tapped the hole in it to 9/16-12. What I made was an insert to repair the require 3/8-24 hole in the fan gear. Inserted with Loctite plus I peened the edges to ensure that it does not move. Next - take a peace of 5/8" x 4.5" stock, turn a 15/16" length of each end down to 7/16" and thread it to a 20 pitch. One new drag link. Now for the tie rod that was butchered up. First off, position the front axle and spindles so that everything is held strait. Then cut a 1" x 5/16" flat bar to length. Use a transfer punch to mark the outer holes. Drill the 1/2" holes in each end and the 3/8" hole for the drag link and test bolt things together. Looking good, now it was time to turn the two 1/2' bolts into part #3949 clevis pins. Cut to length and then drill an 1/8" hole 1" deep into the end of the bolt. Drill & tap the end to 1/4-28 to a depth of 3/8" for a grease zerk. Drill an 1/8" cross hole to meet up with the 1/8" length wise hole so that grease can get to the pivot point. Front end repaired & almost ready for some paint.

I ran into DJ this morning, and he even bought me lunch and a coffee! Thanks @hcminis, it was great to run into a familiar face after a 4 hour drive for some car parts!

Early birthday present for myself. Not perfect, but for the price I couldn’t resist.

A buddy who is a scrapper called about this hood he picked up with some other scrap metal. Thankfully he called to see if we wanted it. I don't have a use for it but couldn't see letting it get crushed. Pretty straight, no latch or wiring.

Today I took a portable train layout for an assisted living facility for show and tell. I had some pictures projected upon a screen of how I made some of the items and a video of my layout at home. Talked about how I got into trains (wife's uncle passed and left them to us). Answered questions how I made mountains, buildings and other items. I anticipated spending 30 minutes or so and ended up over an hour. The residents (some 20 of them) seemed to enjoy and appreciate The activities director asked who and where they rode trains. Interesting stories. Lots of laughter and memories for these folks. One funny part. I normally run my trains pretty slow--just looks more natural. Someone asked "will it go faster?" Another "Yeah, lets see it go fast." So I opened up the throttle and nearly all of them cheered! Not too bad for a 79 year old engine.

Hey folks , I haven't been as active here as I once was ( apologies ) . I have been busy . This happened to me this week and I remembered there are "birders" on this forum . Last Wednesday while at work , myself and two coworkers were just shooting the breeze out in our drop lot when something caught our eyes . It was a seemingly injured bird hopping along the fence line. Birds of prey are very common in the city . They hunt the pigeons that nest nearby. We decided to call the SPCA and they forwarded us to the DEC. About 1/2 hour later a woman from the DEC shows up and she can't catch him. My 2 coworkers had left and I decided to help her as she was about to give up . She threw a blanket to me over the fence and told me what to do . I managed to toss the blanket over him and get ahold of both his feet .I carried the bundled injured little guy over to her Jeep and slid it into a pet carrier. He looked in pretty rough shape to my untrained eye . I gave the woman my info and asked if she would keep me updated. This afternoon I get a call . The bird was taken to our SPCA and is doing "quite well". She sent me a pic . He's about a 1 year old Coopers Hawk. He's gorgeous.

January 10, 1899, The invention of the dry cell battery and miniature incandescent electric light bulbs made the first battery-powered flashlights possible. Patented by David Misell the first flashlight was powered by “D” batteries laid front to back in a paper tube with the light bulb and a rough brass reflector at the end. The company donated some of these devices to the New York City police, who responded well to them. Keep shining a beam of light into the history of this bright idea. If a flashlight malfunctions it is known as a @Sparky

I haven't named any of my tractors, even if I thought of a good name. Nothing against it at all. It's just that I can barely keep all my kid's names in my mind so I'm just trying not to confuse myself...

I built a hub puller a couple of weeks ago, which worked great (see below), but I thought I could improve upon it, so I fabbed up a new version, which has two advantages over the first one: It has a cavity for the hub spigot, so it can be bolted flat against the hub flange, which can add some rigidity to the flange, and it can be used with hubs that have been retrofitted with studs, as well as those that are still using lug bolts. Mine still has lug bolts, but I used a separate set of bolts and washers with the puller, rather than the lug bolts, in order to prevent any damage to the puller plate or to the tapered part of the lug bolts. The center bolt is longer than it needs to be, but that's what I had on hand. I put a dab of anti-seize on the center bolt threads. Previous version of hub puller: New version: Back of puller (I dressed the weld a bit, just for the heck of it): Front of puller:

Santa Claus dropped this set off for me, but I haven't had a chance to use it yet. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FD2MGBZV/?coliid=I2OHFXC6N18XC2&colid=E9BKT8EPBLKD&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Yesterday we brought home my grandpa's 1967 Cub Cadet 122 so I could tear into and replace a headgasket, reseal the motor, fix the clutch, fix some fatigue welds, go through the mower deck, get it all degreased, flush and refill tranny, and probably some other stuff that I cant think if off the top of my head. Anyways, I have been taking photos as I go along. And when we were taking it off the trailer the left front spindle broke so I'm in need of one of those.

Forgot to post this one from last month.

I’m not opposed to either the pincer or hammer style, but I’ve gone to the soldered on style of lug for the relatively few times I need to make new heavy cables. And, by the way, keep an eye out at tag and garage sales for jumper cables. A good set (heavy, flexible, stranded copper wire) can yield some great battery/starter cables.

January 15, 2009 The "Miracle on the Hudson" the emergency landing of US Airways Flight 1549 on the Hudson River on January 15, 2009, after a flock of geese disabled both engines shortly after takeoff. Thanks to the skill of Captain Chesley "Sully" Sullenberger and co-pilot Jeffrey Skiles, all 155 people on board survived.

Prowling around somewhere or another I saw this seat mentioned. Looked like something I wanted to try so I bought one. Got it in the mail yesterday and I like it so much I ordered two more. At or just below freezing in the shop and the material feels reasonably soft and supple. Will it last? I have no idea. We will see what it does at 0° or below. On a low back versus high back seat I could go either way as far as looks. For a practical nature however, I prefer a low back seat. Two reasons: 1. It's easier for me to get on and off the tractor without the seat back being in the way. 2. I've said it before and I'll repeat it here. Your entire muscle and bone and tendon structure is literally, use it or lose it. One of the biggest reasons, if not THE biggest reason, that most of us experience injuries is because we have failed over the years to use our people chassis correctly. Engage. Your. Core. Muscles. As often as possible. I'm talking as close to 100% of the time as possible. Yes it takes training. Just do it. That's another reason why I prefer a low back seat. It forces me to use my core muscles to hold my body upright while driving. Here's some pics. This particular one I got off of Wally World but it looks like they're available from multiple sources. It was just under $54 shipped.

This is true. I did the tranny a couple of years ago in order to fix a a bad 3rd gear so with a fresh engine it should be good for another 60yrs.

Soft start clutch controller works well for this issue. I've used one for 8 years and it works great. I didn't use hydraulics on this one but it can be done! Not a C-series but has alot of those parts in it.

Exhaust covers and air deflector ready to be installed. Engine ready for exhaust covers to be installed. Right exhaust cover tucked under side cover as it was originally. Right engine lifting lug loosely bolted through exhaust and side covers. Both lifting lug bolts have never seize applied to threads. Left engine lifting lug loosely bolted through exhaust and side covers. Note the exhaust cover is on top of the side cover on this side. Both engine lifting lugs loosely bolted through exhaust and side covers. Air deflector sat on muffler and loosely bolted to exhaust covers. Chrome muffler cover attached loosely with the two center screws. Chrome muffler cover attached to muffler with all 6 screws, this also firmly attaches the air deflector to the muffler. Note, all screws have never seize on the threads. Air deflector bolts tightened making sure that there is no contact between the exhaust covers and the intake manifold. Exhaust covers and air deflector installed.

Small improvement: I made a very simple 'thrust bearing' for the end of the puller's center bolt. I bored a 5/16"+ hole in the end of the 3/4-16 grade 8 center bolt, squared off the end of the bolt, cut the threads off of a partially-threaded grade 8 5/16 bolt, and added two 5/16 SAE washers. If I wanted to get fancier, I could have cut a groove in the shank of the 5/16 bolt for a small O-ring to retain it in the center bolt, but I figure enough is enough. A dab of grease will hold the 5/16" bolt in the end of the center bolt while the puller is being set up, and a bit of grease or anti-seize or other EP lube (ZX1?) on and between the washers would be a good idea when using the puller.

I purchase a 20ft wheel horse hauler been busy putting electrical in the inside that I can run a generator for power so I can sleep in it and working on tie downs so I can secure my wheel horse tractors

Well, we got around 6" or so of snow last night and it is snowing heavily right now. Another foot or so is forecast for today so I plowed some just to stay ahead of it. If I get too much then the big tractor and blower may need to come out. The 520HC is resting in the heated shop now. It is currently 9F with a wind chill of -2F so I wore my warm jacket and insulated pants to stay warm.

I have an 875. First year for the "Wheel a Matic hydro which has slight differences with the later Hydrogear and Piston Piston models. The only more modern attachment that can work that I know of is the long frame snowplow if it has the extra hole to move the rear mount bar closer to the front.

Got it apart, what you think? A little JP Weld might work. Got a cat scan done, confirmed, cam fubar.

My wife recorded me plowing snow on Dec 11 but I just got the video from her now to post it. The 520HC worked well as always.

January 12, 1966 "Batman", starring Adam West as Batman, Burt Ward as Robin, and Cesar Romero as The Joker, debuts on ABC.

That shouldn’t matter..you think you’re the only Eric? Or me the only Mike? Clyde is still my choice …. Now make it happen

Did some cleaning yesterday night. And came how way better then I was expecting. Still have to clean the rims and find a belt guard though. Do have some other plans for this tractor as well

And I thought you were asking about the MPG fuel stats on Mrs Ks favorite ride.

Got my latest C-160-8 to pop off today. Think she was auctioned off because starter motor was bad. Fixed some wiring issues replaced starter and she popped.. ( can't spray carb cleaner and film at the same time) This is the tractor with the unique K 431 engine.

Absolutely beautiful trails in the snow! Always good to take the horses for a brisk walk on occasion!

Battery showed up today

Oh, you would fit in this cab. I have not even started this tractor yet this season but I am keeping the battery charged so it's ready to go.

For $100 it would be in my shed by now. Worry about what fits and doesn't fit later.

He ran out for coffee and donuts?

Front tach and hood pivot ready for assembly. Front tach lock assembly ready to install. Front tach lock and shaft partly inserted then E clip installed. Front tach lock spring slid onto shaft then shaft full inserted and E clip installed on opposite end from spring. Front tach lock slid over on shaft then the final E clip installed. Front tach lock release grip installed. Front tach latch assembly ready to install. Front tach latch pin has one E clip installed and is greased. Front tach latch pin slid into place and second E clip is installed. Latch shown in open position. Hood stop rod of my own design ready to install. I think Wheel Horse dropped the ball a bit on this design as the cotter pins get hit by the hood brackets. I use a solid 1/4" rod (you could use the original for this) slid into a piece of 3/8" tubing that has one hole drilled through to accept a cotter pin that holds everything together. Mine are all stainless steel but that is not required. Hood stop rod installed ready for cotter pin. Hood stop rod fully installed. Hood pivot assembly ready to install. There was some wear in the original rod and pivot brackets so I drilled the brackets and housing to 1/2" I then made up a 1/2" rod with holes drilled to accept cotter pins. Hood pivot shaft partly inserted and Right pivot bracket slid onto shaft. Hood pivot shaft partly inserted and both pivot brackets and washers slid onto shaft. Hood pivot shaft fully inserted and pivot brackets and washers slid into place on shaft. Hood pivot cotter pins installed. Front tach and hood pivot assembled. This is the tool I use to install the E clips.

Colossus II

We have been having some awesome sunrises and sunsets in Indiana too! But the moons the last three months have also been very bright and beautiful!

the left handle and the clutch pedal are on and add rubber pieces were your feet set next thing is getting the engine together and on the frame and the fenders and the pan painted gas tank mounted on the hood and both of them painted too a lot of work to go still

Not very picture heavy today. One of today's goals was to clean the engine up to prepare it for paint. Part of that goal was to investigate the oil seepage from the head gasket. When I pulled the head, this was the scene. Way too much piston wash for my tastes, not to mention the small puddle of oil laying on top. Given this knowledge, well.. this happened. Thanks to @WHX?? for helping me tear the engine down. Measurements were taken and it looks like it will need a new set of rings & some gaskets. Not a planned event in this resto but nothing that can't be fixed.

I have a pile of floats. I could send you one.

Wow... give a guy indoor plumbing and the lectricity and bam - you are so much more than a fried cheese curd... Beautiful work!!!

Good looking rig! I’ve got a soft spot for the 60’s square hoods

Depending on the implement being driven by the PTO, the instantaneous engagement of an electric clutch may be an issue; better done with the traditional lever type where you can ease into it. All I use are lever style. My ...

Ahhh the nut cracker suit... I just always ground off that lilttle flare & soldered & shrink with no issues so far. If I need a nice set for a cherry resto I just put in a job order at Dan's work. Trolling motor wire works good too... very flexible. They say many small conductors carry current better as the electron flow is greatest on the perimeter of the conductor.

What, you don't attach it to a dedicated "Mule" engine to set the mix screws while running too?? You hack!!!!!

Pulled the trigger on this one from HFT. Was surprised how many dies came with it. Crimps 14 to 0 gauge Will be proud to be able to make my own cables. I hate haveing extra long cabels and to big ol lug holes when not needed and has to be easier on electrical systems.