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just got word my grandson , graduates from san Diego / to camp Lejeune , to flight status , crew chief / loadmaster , will be flying , Europe / Africa , 3 weeks out of every month , 21 year's old, started out in a class of 54 , 7 finally made it , all going to different theaters / aircraft . be flying a C130J , loadmaster . hope to see him before he heads out , proud GRAMPA

Gray Drum Drive Tractor As tractors began to evolve there were no rules and no set conventional tractor to go by. By today’s standards there were some strange looking tractors finding their way onto the farm. The gigantic prairie tractors were not well suited for smaller farms. Numerous three wheeled configurations were developed with steering in the front and others with steering in the rear. One drive wheel or two drive wheels, lots of offerings were made by a variety of manufacturers. Drum Drive tractors were one of the strangest appearing contraptions, but from an engineering standpoint the design was brilliant. The drum was 54-inches wide and could be equipped with cone or spade lugs. The two front wheels with automotive-type steering were each 8-inches wide and positioned wider than the rear drum, so the tractor rolled a 70 inch wide strip. The primary feature of this configuration was the tractor did not compact the soil and the standing corn stalks or vegetation were flattened when the tractor was plowing, enabling the plow to completely bury the crop. The tractor’s heavy frame allowed implements to be attached to the side of the tractor for a one-pass operation. For example, a small disk could be positioned on the left side of the tractor to cut the vegetation, a 4-bottom plow behind the tractor to turn the soil, and a harrow on the right side to smooth the turned soil from the previous pass. Tractors in the early part of the twentieth century were heavy and the use of the drum distributed the weight over a substantially greater area reducing soil compaction. Gearing for differentials and ring and pinion drives was expensive and worm drive systems didn’t hold up well for massive machines. A simple chain drive is all that was needed on the drum drive tractor. I expect that others also manufactured Drum Drive Tractors but Gray’s was a financial success. W. Chandler Knapp is credited with having developed the concept and design of the Drum Drive in 1908, however he had no plans to manufacture it. The Knapp Farm Locomotive began as a shop-built four-wheel tractor with rear drive wheels and evolved into the drum drive to reduce root damage in his orchard and to better cope with muddy areas. Gray Tractor Manufacturing Co. of Minneapolis bought Knapp’s company and design in 1914, there is little information about the sale so this is a gray area (pun intended). The “drum-drive” tractor was renamed the Gray Model A 20-35. A smaller Model B 15-25 was later added to the lineup. In 1917 the 18-36 model was introduced; this model was built until 1922 and was the company’s most popular tractor. It was powered by a 4-cylinder Waukesha engine. The enclosed power train consisted of spur gears and a roller chain final drive. Gray built a model especially for the Canadian market as the drum-drive worked well in snowy conditions. It was known as the 22-40 HP Canadian Special. According to company advertising the drum offered ten advantages: “Simplicity of construction; does away with all bevel gears and differential; distributes weight over a larger surface; avoids packing of the soil and injury to seed bed; ideal for soft and wet land; gives double traction surface; supplies more power to the drawbar; produces a never-slip grip; affords easy steering and turning, and rolls everything flat before plows.” A corrugated sheet metal hood covered the engine and the wide drum. The tractor operator was seated at the rear of the tractor, near the right side. The operator platform design left a lot to be desired, the operator sat at the rear of the tractor with his view obscured by the engine cover. The seat could be rotated to the right side but the operator would then need to look over his shoulder to see where the tractor was going. Company advertising indicates the tractor stayed into production until 1933.

Put a battery in and went for a maiden drive. Machine is very fast with the hydro pulley on the engine. However, low 1 is still quite slow so it should be just fine. Now I just need to order the decals and I am good to go.

The likelihood of being able to patch it up and have the fan be balanced well enough to use it is slim to none. Get another fan and keep the rpms reasonable.

Proud is the correct term. Proud of my sone with 14 years in the Army.

Another year and another show buy/trade/sell thread here! Post whatever you are looking to buy/trade or sell here.

Can't speak for longevity yet, but the IH red "Farm Implement" Rust-Oleum has higher gloss than regular rattle cans. It's a bit slower to fully cure, but worth the wait IMO.

Added a big sticker on the 523-H hood. Tried to talk the wife into putting one on her truck window, but she said "no thank you". ...Or might have been "I'll kill you"? I wasn't really paying attention.

Been using those for a while. Used to get them from Pat's small engine for $20 It will fit on the 1" pipe but use a clamp too

Oh yeah @Shynonturned me on to them years ago. They have a real nice mellow sound ... you can put a tink tink on them ... they fit right on a 1in nipple... And best for us with 30 tractors... affordable. Cub bracket comes right off.

Congratulations, Most 21 year olds can't figure out what they want to be when they grow up, the military has made a man out of a boy. Well done.

Able to weld over rust Able to weld while laying in a muddy field Able to weld while burning away paint and manure Able to weld with a coat hanger and a 120VAC extension cord Able to weld without a helmet using squinty eyes. etc.

I think a softer rubber compound and less ply’s will provide better traction. Personally would never buy a 10 ply for one of my tractors.

No worky Ed ... for me anyway...

The complaint on Horshoes in the review section says they are larger than advertised... Well, that's new.

Time to dump the buckets and get some pics.

Well folks. Here we go. Trina and I have signed on to put up a nice new 44 wide x 40 deep building. Front. Sliding rolling doors open away from each other. Rear. Single Sliding rolling door opens right to left. Right side. (faces house). Lower floor level will be divided in 2 at the request of the insurance company. 20' vehicle garage at the front. 20' shop space at the back. Solid fire rated wall between. 3'-0" door going to each space. No windows except those in doors. Wood storage or vehicle storage under 10' shed roof. Left side. No doors, no windows. Wood storage or vehicle storage under 10' shed roof. Downward view. Front to the right. WOOOOOHOOOOOO !!! Please do feel free to put forth suggestions, things you wish you'd done, etc... There will be NO insulation, electric, water installed ... For now.

My outlet pipes on my K series measure 1.260" (1"npt), has anyone used these mufflers on their engines, if so what pipe did you use? Ive got an 8hp and a 12hp that need new exhaust...want to see if this muffler can be made to fit that pipe

They're not $20 anymore but that's where I first found them years ago. I'd buy 2 or 3 of those at a time. Use them on all my customs. Always used to load up on stuff from Pat's but their new website is just about useless. So hard to navigate and find parts that I don't bother any more. Plus they back ordered stuff on me a couple of times and screwed up the orders while wanting more money.

@peter lena, @CCW, I hope both of you, when you get the chance, and remember to do it… Tell both of those servicemen thank you from Horse Newbie !

I like Regal Red and Almond. Oh, to the

I've used those. I recommend them. Decent medium to low tone. Works well.

I had a set of 6 ply's that I had to leave out in the sun for an afternoon. (to cheap to take them to the tire shop)

The only rule on oil i really abide by is no synthetic for break-in. Other than that, I warm up a fresh rebuild and then put it to work, they need a load

Happy Birthday @Chris G, we are gald you were born!

Hope it's the best one ever.

I just stick with the tried and true....KISS kind of guy.

One of them does. Shouldn't take much to get the other one running. Those old Kohlers last forever.

@ HAPPY BIRTHDAY KYLE ! shredded pot roast sandwich , on chi batá steak em roll, dipping cup on side , pete

HAPPPPY BIRTHDAY

Happy Happy Chris

Have a Great Day

Happy Birthday Chris

There are so many questions and comments concerning lubricants, seems like a good topic for it's own bullet line under the wheel horse section? As far as break in oil in splash lubed engines, i honestly don't really see it. When we did race engines the upmost area of concern was the "new" camshaft. You could wipe a lobe easily with the wrong oil or low oil pressure. One reason to prime the system with the oil pump. Crank bearings we pretty well fitted and ran on oil film, once again prime was the key. Little concern there. Rings, cylinders were cross hatched to hold oil and the rings were changed way before cylinder wear was evident. We started them, had a mild shake down running up to temp a few times, changed out the break in oil and let it eat! I like the diesel oils and like full synthetic in these small engines. I check and change oil on a regular basis. But you have to admit, some of those old Kohler flat head engines ran for years and years on just regular motor oils and good maintenance. Aside from the issues with oil, one thing that has ruined more engines then we think.....dirt inhalation. (dusting) Plus being air cooled, being dirty / not maintained. Oil manufactures spend a lot of money getting you to use their products. The only brand I would recommend a person stay away from is the "lack of" brand. Check it, change it, maintain it!

Agree with the others on not needing duals for plowing. Best save your attention in geting the tractor and plow setup in top notch shape. If I was to be serious about plowing with a roundy I would go with five bolt hubs and loaded 23-10.50 Tru Powers. A front tombstone weight & Firestone 23s I had Pullstart's pockets. Now that would be boss!!! We throw roundys in a furrow but just for fun and to perhaps. work a fresh motor. Tom @Shynon set this mule up with landside duals and really not needed but he could and it does look cool. Most often with the angle the tractor sets in the furrow outside tire prolly doesn't do much. Especially on hard dirt. That pic Dan musta been before you restoed it. I recollect right it did ok with no mods. We have very forgiving soil here tho @Keaton. Soil types you plan to plow is a key to setting your rig up proper.

Got some steekers today! I've been buying Terry's decals since 2007, and am still amazed every time I get them. The quality is amazing, and the attention to detail as well. Guess I need to hurry up and finish this one. My Kohler letters moved accidentally but I fixed them.

I love my Scag ZTR- but you can buy a nice, low hour subcompact diesel with a loader and 60-inch deck for the same money.

My wife told me I can have as many as I want, as long as I get a new zero turn to maintain her big front yard!

Sorry for the bad pics. Allis Chalmers mid grader blade converted to a back blade Converts to a mid grader. My Economy Power King with a loader built here from Economy drawings (Bucket is different design) home made front weight bracket and barbell frt. wheel weights Converted this planet Jr. disc to a mid disc

Just another thought, You can run the blower very slow and increase the air velocity by decreasing the discharge area. Something like this could be modified to create a wide high velocity sweeper.

First a Aluminum FEL - for a 212 - ok that was my first machine - that addicted me not a real Wheelhorse but i got it 1,5 Years later - however it works and can be adapted if needed. One and a half year later i got me an 656 as a “ daily driver“.. For lot‘s of Fun i built me few Thingis to simplify my Work... I love my broom each Autumn simply and reliable can be used with my selfmade Plowframe The Selfmade garden Cart - made out of an collapsed Pavillon doesn‘t look that stable but it can easy take a load up to 200 Kilos (allready tested) because here wheelhorse parts be ultrarare i made me few myself like the Snowplow including Frame enlarged Tiller with improved Engine 6 HP and enlarged to 90cm workwidth selfmade Adapter for original Wheelhorse rear lift insert. The next Attachement was a Double side Tilt plow Can be arrested in 5 different steps modified Pulley driveshaft with zerk fitting and many more...

Now now... I still maintain one dino-juice C-105. It's the one that started it all, so it isn't going anywhere... I've been on hold with Wheel Horse corporate for two years now trying to speak with someone about where the oil fill and drains are on my E-141's and the A-60... they don't show up on the owners manual graphics...

Sorry to have to second that boys but same here. How bout you @Achto? They had four term SG regs listed for 19 + the flat rate ship for 10 any order. Ok deal right? We used to get together and a bunch of us order. Was 8 bucks then for whole order. Couldn't order off website and when I called was told to get them elsewhere?!?!? Check them on fleabay EB... Cub muffler. You'll find them prices all over the board.

I used Rust-oleum IH Red "farm Implementt" and Acetone, hardern. a Harbor Frieght gun on this Raider. It dries fast, put it back together a couple days later, I mixed 4 oz. paint, 2 oz, acetone,and 2 oz. harder. I couldn't fine the harder I wanted to use, found what i had for icheting primer, was ready to paint and used it, textured the paint and hid all the small imperfections,

I like the Wheel Horse mini bike stuff LOL

The guy had an ice cream maker at the show