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Thieman kit tractors The Thieman Harvester Co., Albert City, Iowa, offered farmers an inexpensive tractor kit from 1936-1942 The buyer had to provide an engine, transmission, driveshaft radiator and rear axle from a Ford Model A, 1928 Chevrolet or Dodge Four cylinder car. Kits were priced at $ 185 or you could order a complete tractor with a Ford Model A engine for about $500.Therman’s brochure recommend a Model A motor “with new or reconditioned block, Model A Ford HD truck radiator, and a four-blade fan. Those low prices were a welcome relief to farmers who wished to go horseless during the Great Depression. Thieman offered several options, including a governor ($15), combination drawbar ($9), air cleaner ($7) and rubber wheels ($122.75 for all three). Any 2-row horse-drawn cultivator could be adapted to the tractor with a cultivator attachment ($15). Also offered on later model tractors was a cast-iron grill. Thieman Harvester Co. began in 1921, brothers Henry D., William B., Herman, Charles, and Warren Thieman, made silage harvesters. They expanded their product line including livestock feeders and waterers, end gates, plow guides, saw frames and power units, as well as steel burial vaults. Sales of Thieman tractors and kits were so brisk that as many as 150 people were employed 24 hours a day during peak seasons. The need for steel for World War II defense production ended company operations in the 1940s.

As many of you know I have repowered my 312-8. I chose to purchase an engine from https://repowerspecialists.com/ as they had a replacement listed for a similar Wheelhorse. From start to finish working with them was a good experience. Not only do they have a recommended engine for the tractor, but the support they provide would be the envy of any company. Both of the extra work they provided for me were free of charge and quickly handled. Even the return of the engine mounting plate was done with a prepaid mailer provided by them. When the wiring on my WH was not correct for the engine to run they had a wiring harness work around in my hands three days later. If you are looking to buy a new engine RePower is a great place to start.

Since your tractor is gravity fed, and so long as it's working well, I would say leave it as is. If you replace the fuel line, just route it exactly as it is now.

This is good to know info! I've been aware of them for a while, but hadn't seen anyone from our group with experience. Glad it worked out! Do they still run Vanguards? I know someone with a repowered 520-H that had one of thier kits installed, but he bought the tractor after the conversion. But, it's still going strong years later. I've converted several now to Vanguard, but did it myself. Plug and play would be nice!

If it isn't broke don't fix it.

Gravity has been working for millions of years

Leave it if it's working fine. Keep the tank on the half full side. Not... you get a 50/50 shot at getting one that works.

Gotta like the chicken!

The breakerless ignition is wonderful until it quits working, then it has to go. I wouldn't want to spend money and time on a half century old electronic part when I could convert the engine to reliable battery powered ignition with a coil. Check out this post.

Unless you're specifically trying to keep original form you could likely change over to points for less money.

Go to the link from TP Tools and read about spraying with a turbine system. A lot will have to do with the gun Titan provides too. I sprayed these 2 tractors with the Turbine system

Well I got the C-175 running good, and it operates as it should. I started tearing it down and quickly realized it is going to need a lot of work. I’m still on the fence about doing a full blown restoration on this tractor. As some of you know, it’s a lot of work to do it properly. It would be nice however to have it done as it is the feature tractor for the big show. I was fairly certain my buddy had the front mower carrier, but he informed me that he sold it a few years ago. @Tonytoro416 said he has a nice one, maybe we can work something out? One thing I do have is several 48” decks that also need to be restored. So really all I need to re-create the picture is to restore my tractor and mower deck. Find a mower carrier, a yellow Members Only jacket, polyester pants and those brown shoes!! Basically if I am going to try and pull this off I’m going to need to devote all of my free time to getting it done! I ask myself why on earth am I even thinking about doing this! I have been dropping subtle hints to the treasurer that we may be incurring some unexpected costs over the next few months. I didn’t get a full on green light, however I didn’t get a red light either. I feel as if I’m operating under a yellow caution light 😂 Stay tuned………

Excuse me kp @BillD has got me confused all those hoses running around... did I mention I'm a purist and a orginal freak?

I got all this for free a couple of years ago. P.O even delivered it to my house ! Sat outside for 10 yrs. Wife told him it had to go. New coil, points, battery, front tires, and gas and it fired right up. I cleaned it up, did a little paint work and sold it. Great machine,built like a Sherman tank. Wouldn't mind owning another. Case 224. Not sure of the model you have pictured. Regardless of the model the condition of it dosnt make it worth all that much.

Mechanical portion is all done, i hung 275lbs off the arms and nothing gave but the front end was starting to come up. I put 250 on the drawbar and it held it. Now ive got to take it all off, clean up some welds and paint it. I missed my goal of Cat 0 standard 20" spacing between the arms, got 19" down and 18.75 fully raised. If needed i can heat the arms and put a bit of a dogleg in them. The drawbar and drop stop are repurposed deck hangers off of a deere deck that i scrapped last year but kept the lift links/hangers because thats some stiff steel.

Looks like factory undercut on the valve

It was Napa Crossfire Basecoat/ Clearcoat. Allis Chalmers Cream.

Very cool! All of it.. the job, the tour.. In the Netherlands the plots were/are small aswell although small farms are slowly disappearing. It's more efficiënt to farm bigger pieces of land so the big farms keep getting bigger. Anyway, because the plots were small the tractors on the second hand market are also mostly smaller compared to the more modern machines. Coming up, but not shortly. Many things to do. I'm sure you would have a fieldtrip with this one. Lots of 'room for improvement' so to say. Thanks for the kind words mr. Greasy! I'll do my best to get the tractor to good working order ASAP.

I need to wrap my son's bedroom with that!

Another sad example of the consequences of many state regulations... States know nothing about making, selling or maintaining tractors, tires etc. yet these regulations directly impact your ability, as a consumer they say they are protecting, do something as simple as change a tire... What is the state's interest in essentially voiding your warranty relationship with a manufacturer or a service provider? Nonsense. If a tire business wishes to change your tire at an agreed to price they and you should have unfettered ability to do so. This issue aside, enjoying your progress!!! and i love the name!!! Maybe Terry can make you a custom graphic:

I have had good results using 3/8" thick hot rolled steel. Size it so the holes run up the middle so it is reversable. Holes - hot rolled is a total PITA to drill, so be advised. Check with McMaster-Carr..... Or if you have a local Metal Supermarket. Some folks have switched to urethane or plastic - your choice....

Thanks for bringing this thread up on my email Eric. We have been in Texas for the last three weeks on ministry meetings and there are SO MANY trucks in Texas. Because of the climate, many of them last for decades and we keep seeing cool examples like these… I loved the patina on this old Ford—just needs a new set of tires, a tune up, and drive it! spied this one across the road while we were out walking! Took the family to the birthplace of Dr. Pepper in Waco, and took a tour of the museum. Check out the old Chebby delivery truck! Visited my buddy Dave’s house earlier this week here in Garland and got a first hand look at his AWESOME 1969 Dodge short box resto mod. 632 CID BBC power rated at about 900hp! Hand built frame, custom 4L80 tranny, 9” Ford rear with 4.11 gearing and two 18.5” tires! Zach was totally into it and now wants to acquire uncle Ken’s ‘69 C20 and start rebuilding it🤔 who here can’t appreciate a square body? Pretty common down here! If I lived down in this climate, I wouldn’t own a vehicle newer than the 1980’s (although I may have a newer power plant/drivetrain)…

Three corners of this ride had metal on metal on the brakes and the rear calipers were hung up. I scoured the local U-Pick this week and managed to find good front pads and rotors, rear calipers, pads and rotors, and some wheels and tires from a Trailblazer that had better tread. I ordered a new shift cable bushing for $10 straight outta the jungle and so far have a total of $496 into this truck. The old tires are still in great shape so I’ll see if I can sell them for a few hundred. It would be sweet to have a running, driving vehicle for less than $200!

I saw this old cutie pie up in Bridgton Maine yesterday.

Hospital stuff ain’t cheap 😬

Just my but maybe just clean and fix what you need instead of repaint if that was in your plans.

Finally installed new throttle cable yesterday. Due to the bulkiness of the new type cable it was not possible to install it in original place without doing some physical alterations on tractor. Since I have never been a fan of where it was located originally , obstructed by steering wheel ,I decided to fabricate a bracket and install it in a more conveniently accessible place. Removed old cable and in its place installed an additional light switch which was in an awkward spot already so everything worked out great. Throttle cable is an absolute pleasure. It’s a precision instrument. Smooth precise operation. Can be vernier adjusted with just index finger. Can be stopped anywhere in its travel and it stays put. Using red bypass button it can be immediately pulled out or pushed in. Entire unit can also be totally locked with large black knob which is a bit redundant since cable positively stays on any position left. Extremely well made with a vinyl covered metal jacket which in turn has a slippery thick plastic jacket inside through which cable runs smoothly. Not sensitive to tight turns like regular solid throttle cable is. Great large easy to use knobs. Worked perfectly on first try. Night to day performance compared to original type cable. IMG_4990.mov

Stick to the non running rule of a Benny tops. It better be something rare or very special for me to break that rule.

Build your own tractor The Victor Traction Gear Company of Loudonville, Ohio developed a unique opportunity for farmers or others wanting a tractor to build their own. In 1913 they provided a KIT to allow you to use whatever engine (Primarily Hit & Miss at the time) you had and a bit if ingenuity to build a tractor. The kit weighed about a thousand pounds and would be shipped by rail. There were apparently no dealerships and the purchaser paid the freight charges. I haven’t been able to find any sales information or pricing. The kit consisted of differential and transmission gears, traction wheels, freight wheels, axles, steering gear parts, clutch sprockets, chain and other appliances for converting gasoline engines into tractors. You made your own wood frame and used whatever engine you wanted. The transmission had one forward speed and a reverse gear. It was not intended to be used in the fields for plowing although it could pull a heavy load. The Victor Tractor was a drivable self-propelled power source made for hay baling, grinding, threshing, filling silos, powering saw mills, and other belt work. Engines of that time had a belt pulley and clutch built in.

I did lap both valves already. Think the exhaust needs some more? Don't think the exhaust valve is too burned? Also, not clear on the valve lash. Lash measure on mine is almost non existent. Is that ok or do I need to take some off the valve stem? Manual calls for tappet clearance intake .006 / .008. Exhaust .017 / .019 Min lift zero lash intake .2718. Exhaust .2482 Just not sure what all that means? Does it even need any valve lash? The valves lapped with good contact. Advice please from you guru's.

And for a money maker, a TDI VW tying up my hoist while we find a flywheel.,,

And if you add or replace the filter be careful some fine filters will restrict flow. I believe 40 micron and larger for gravity feed.

As I see it they are asking a C-note for the tractor and another $900 for the "correct" patina...... NOT!!!

Great to see you posting Josh! Super awesome stuff there.

Here in Maine the state laws FAVOR the CONSUMER which has its ups and downs. We have a Statewide all inclusive Warranty of Suitability on every item sold new in this state. Doesn't matter what the warranty is in writing from the manufacturer or seller. Certain items are covered for a certain time no matter what. That's great when you want to purchase a new item but in a situation like ours, we are not buying anything from the businesses that I would like to have do the work. They are however, still liable for damage to the materials. I know from past experience with a couple of the building materials companies I've worked for that a customer can be requested to sign a Damage Waiver but in a court of law it means very little. What this means to me in my particular situation is that most Box Store places and all but one of the smaller businesses I've found won't touch the job because we didn't purchase any of the items through them and they have no recourse by sending a defective item back to their manufacturer. The one place that agreed to do it has a long history of commercial and agricultural service and he understands that I know what I'm up against.

Absolutely correct on that point. There are not many tractors for sale that have original paint with honest age that have not been painted over. When all or most of the original decals are there, it screams for an oiled finish. I usually start with penetrating oil soaking it a few times and maybe combined with 0W16 that comes from my oil change from the car. Yo need not soak the paint as the decals can wrinkle a bit if you do. The wheels on that tractor look too white to be original rustoleum linen for slightly off white or rustoleum almond for a bit more yellow are both close to factory colors depending on the year of manufacture. I made the mistake of taking apart a well worn original for a clean and paint. if i were to paint a tractor, I would do the tins with a spray gun and the frames would be done with Rustoleum red primer on the parts that show with a small roller and brushed in with a decent brush and light sanding followed with paint applied in the same fashion. even than , i would practice on a really derelict tractor . like a parts rig. Rustoleum is very forgiving in that it has cod oil in the paint and if there is a bit of oil on the tractor, the rustoleum combines with it and will not fish eye. I say all this simply because the rough parts of the tractor do not look much better when sprayed than when brushed. They also are hard to get 100% of the oil removal. The patina tractors look really great with nice wheels and a rubbed finish, to sum it all up. I once completely stripped, conditioned, and had a painting session that involved twenty four wheels in one afternoon placed on a lazy susan. They turned out really nice

If you need it, RCGroups has some great (although lengthy) threads on it, as well as YouTube. Only trick os software versions. If yours is different from the video, they get a little confusing. Otherwise pretty easy.

First you should test the system you have to confirm it is in need of replacement as @pfrederi suggested. Follow the steps outlined in the attached information he gave you. You won't know what is good or bad without TESTING IT. If you need to replace the ignition system you would need an internally resisted ignition coil, ignition points, points push rod and a condenser. The post I attached to reply #5 covers the process step by step, take a couple of minutes and read it.

I've had the lock ferrule give up prematurely. Disconnect the Z bend. Turn the knob in the unlocked direction until the ferrule comes out of the housing. Recrimp the ferrule.

They should only turn about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn to lock/unlock so I install them with the throttle in the locked position. Full throttle position locked and adjust the max RPM with the cable clamp near the governor. It shouldn't take much force to lock them so twisting the knob loose from the shaft on a new one shouldn't happen although some of the cheaper ones aren't really secured well. But over a long time it does happen. Wonder if you got lemon? Pretty sure that Jeep one has a threaded plastic insert that squeezes to lock the position and twisting too hard could possibly strip the threads. Maybe you can cut off the Z bend and untwist it open to see what's going on with it. If it's installed where you need to twist it more than a 1/4 turn to lock it then you should reset the Z bend cable connection at the governor because the cable will untwist it or make it too difficult to lock it. Not sure if this applies to yours but adding the info for future searches

Took me 20 years to get in the shape I'm in now. ...Guessing it will take at least that many to get back!

Have you tested the components. Coils are easier to find if that is the problem The tester is a couple of D cell batteries and old school flashlight bulb

It is a heck of a dilemma but clearly Congress has not been at all interested in taking it on and, for sure there is no obvious solution.

I 've used one of these. Works well and you can paint anywhere as long as you have electricity! https://www.tptools.com/SHOWTIME-99-HVLP-Paint-Spray-Turbine-Unit-with-1-Qt-Finish-Spray-Gun,11055.html?b=d*8049

Hmmmm. That one looks rougher than a Saturday night in Jail !! Motor is "free" - what about the transmission?? Full of water... ?? If so, I'd start at $10 above scrap price..... and stick there.

I took lessons as a kid. Never did become a musician but when I'm alone, I pick on my Martin DX1K Dreadnought. I'm not sure where my son Mike and his two sons Reed and Jake got the talent. Jake is a music major at Gettysburg College.

Looks great!

Sometimes I swear the smallest things make such a huge difference. My PTO lever was loose as hell, flopped around, and make a metal on metal squeal rubbing on the side panel. I hate that squeal noise because it just tells you something is NOT mechanically correct. Looking on the Toro parts site I saw there was supposed to be a spring attached from the lever to a bracket which mine didn’t have, so went ahead and bought that and the stupid nyliners (why the hell they’re not something better like brass bushings I don’t know). Spent an hour putting them in tonight and…wow. Man, the PTO is so solid now it makes it feel like a firm, serious tractor again! Not even a peep. Plus I did the nyliners for the hood hinge while I was at it and absolutely no more squeals there either. I know, this is small potatoes and doesn’t come anywhere close to the restorations and improvements some of you guys make but this just made my night.

I have one of those HF lift tables. If you take off the belt guard and mid tach o matic it will lift most Horses except a D I pick up my 1267 with no problem and I can roll it around to where I want it