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My Land Rover Discovery failed it's M.O.T. today. Terminal chassis rot. Could have been patched, but not really viable. So after six years ownership and many a thousands miles, it was time to bid adieu to the old girl. Disco's replacement now occupies it's parking space. Hyundai Santa Fe. 2.2 4cyl diesel. 5 speed box and goes like the proverbial off a blanket. Got all the bells and whistles. Leather seats, cruise control, air con etc. etc. Towing capacity 2-1/2 ton and enough room in the back to sleep in. Luckily Carol likes the colour, as she knew nothing about it 'till I brought it home.

I was wondering if anyone would be able to help me decode this serial number on my newly bought 1277. If you know production numbers, original price, etc... i would like to find someone that does. Please help me with this tractor!

You could have saved a boatload of cash by just driving one of the horses. Then used the money to visit all of us blokes! Could have brought Chris along! sent from a van down by the river using my thumbs!

The 16hp engines of yesterday will do all of the work of todays 22-24hp engines and more.

Check around, prices can be all over the place on this work. Give @richmondred01 or @A-Z Tractor a call to see if they may have a rebuilt or good used engine.

I've read about folks that have had to use a tiny little die grinder and cut those keys out. I have not had to do that yet. I have had a couple fight me tooth and nail. What I've done is to support the axle directly under the key with something like a pile of wood blocks or a jack stand. Blocks preferred because they're soft. Take a small hammer and tap each end of that key like you're trying to make it do a seesaw motion. often after a few hits in each direction you'll be able to detect minuscule movement. Supporting the end of the axle makes it so you can get a little more ambitious with the hammer if need be. When you go to reinstall the seal, very carefully check the edges of the key slot. They can be razor sharp. deburr that a little bit. Flat file works great. For tape I have used both electrical and Scotch. I only put a thin stripe over the key way. You should only have about 1/16 of up-and-down movement. Less is better. If there is more than that you could put it back together and run it but you'll be back in there before too awful long because the wheel bearing is worn.

spiral one layer of electrical tape starting at the seal area out to the end of the shaft. That will keep the key or defects in the shaft from tearing the new seal. Putting a little grease on the seal helps with installation.

Got a aittle farther along...didnt take much; even i newb like me could figure out howto pull it, since most of it was disconnected already when i got it, lol. ...can that bottom...bent piece... on the mule drive be replaced...? And Clara says hello, All😊

Yesterday also but tweaked on my new to me 520. Carb & foot pedal adjustments & added a charger pigtail. Of all the tractors that have been through the stable this one is the first that needed no work! Cleaned out a stall next to her sister....

A couple of years ago I picked up a tandem axle atv/yard trailer that has the ability to dump and has the ears welded on to add a hydraulic piston. I have been working on a number of ways to use my C-195 to activate the hydraulics, but keep running into more questions than answers, so I figured I would spew out a few ideas and let you guys help me decide if I am crazy, or just insane. The trailer is set up to accept a hydraulic cylinder with a 2" bore, and a 24" stroke. By my calculations, to fully extend the cylinder, I would need .63 gallons of fluid. The issue here is that if I wanted to hook it up and use the tractors hydraulics the C-195 has a capacity at only .75 gallons, so I am thinking that nearly running the transmission dry if I had the trailer fully extended is probably a bad idea... That was idea 1, but unless I am wrong, I think there are better options. My second thought was to get an electric over hydraulic pump and mount it to the trailers tongue. This way it would have an independent oil reservoir, but now we come to the problem of powering it. It is a 2hp motor with a max run speed of 3,000 rpm. It runs off a 12v system, and according to the manufacturer under no load it draws 80 amps, and under full load it draws 250 amps. The pump pushes 1.5 gallons per minute, so using some really rough math, that tells me that the pump would need to run for slightly longer than 20 seconds to extend the cylinder to the max. Is it plausible that this could run off of the tractors electrical system? If I could what gauge wire would I need to run from the battery back to the pump? Or would I need to have a separate deep cell battery (for example a marine battery) to run the pump? Any other ideas on how to do this better would be greatly appreciated. This trailer is a pain to tip manually, it's steel construction and wooden bed is awesome, but heavy. I'd love to have a way to back up to where I want to dump it, and just hit a button!

Good Lord willing we will both be able to go to the big show next year. If you find yourself with out a parade ride you will be more than welcome to take Radpferd's reins.

I’ll wait to finish it! @wallfish I’ll send you my info

After lifting an Onan P220 last year, only a few inches onto a lift platform, I had about $800 in medical bills for my 77 year old back. I had worked for 30 years with medical equipment, and trained nurses to use the Hoyer Patient Lift, so I decided to check CL, and picked one up for $100. It has a hydraulic lift capacity of 500 lbs., so it handled the Kohler K12 with no problem last week. I highly recommend it if you can find one. It can come apart in two pieces for storage when not needed, but I just slide the legs under a tractor for storage. The legs pivot out so it can be maneuvered around the wheels. Other medical patient lifts might work as well, but I'm more familiar with the Hoyer (also sold by Invacare). Save your back.

It‘s still in final work for shipping. I still had to wait few day‘s because the first container my transport company shipped a bit too quick and we where not able to crate it and put it in. But next container is still in line and wait for my Package. @pullstart crate it for me, ( big thanks Buddy for that again) I‘m very sad, that the Big Show this year wasn‘t possible. Ok, i‘m not the fastest in speaking because i’m not native tounge and some wordings are sometimes missing in my vocabulary, but i try continousely improve myself.😎😇 nothing is for eternity and never said never again. next year the same timeline i will try again a Visit to the Big Show, to see ya all once face to face. Primary i want to celebrate my Birthday with you Fella‘s, because some seems as crazy as myself. i know i know, Big Show ain‘t this year, but ya all know now my personal Secret (own Birthday Gift), what was allready planed in Background. I would preferr if i was able to drive at the Parade on the Big Show with it, but sometimes things changes in our Life and nobody knows why. I have learned a lesson, that tell’s me there is allway‘s a reason for things they happen, sometimes you need a bit time to understand it, sometimes a few years later. but in the final comes the best. I get a Wheel Horse that fitting my Age. 👍

My c-175 has no issues with the cylcone rake 1 less hp on the 416 will not be an issue .

from an hour and some change west of ya! As mentioned, you’ll have no issue there. We pull well over the weight of our tractors on a regular basis... sometimes we even have wheels! Here’s a few pics of what 6, 8 or 12 hp will even accomplish.

The 416 will pull the DR Vac full of leaves and the Husky H2246 hooked behind it just fine.

Pipe size may vary depending on the oil pan. Most of mine are 3/8 NPT This chart may help you figure out what you have

Got the milling machine set up this morning. It's a nice big lump of metal and will do some decent work for my friend.

All: Years ago, back in the 80's, I was working for a local specialty Machine Tool Builder. One of the guys came up with an adapter that replaced the 5/16-18 adjusting screw on a pair of straight nosed locking pliers (aka Vise Grips) and the other end was tapped 1/2-20 to allow it to have a dent puller slide hammer attached to it. Lock the pliers onto one end of the key perpendicular to the axle, give it a few upwards yanks with the slide hammer and the key comes out without damage. We all made one for this and other adapters with set screws to allow us to extract hollow pull dowels. Sorry, I do not have pictures - but you get the idea...……. Bill

You might want to take a flat stone or a fine file and remove any material that was displaced by the dimple the set screw made. This will make it easier/safer to install the new seal and probably the hub, too.

I used to have a Craftsman lawn tractor with B&S vertical shaft twin. I didn't check the oil frequently enough. It got low and broke one of the rods. It took a short block assembly to fix that one. I put a sign saying "check the oil" on the piston and broken rod and hung it next to the tractor's parking place. With my Wheel Horse, checking the oil is part of the start up procedure.

20200601_143026.mp4 Went to the beach, just to play in the sand today.

Sadly that the Disco rips, my last (Truck) i prepared the whole frame and underbody with mike sanders Wax and the cavities with mike sanders Grease. after 10years i owned her an used her day by day still nearly no rust. Also the while Astra i had before until the marten kills my enginharness. so whole harness burnt, but the underbody looks still nice nearly no rust, but it must be refreshed all2 years. The application is a mess, but it‘s worth that mess on application if you see the results. if you prepare you new Santa, you will have a lot of Fun for several years without rust troubles. i knew the Santa from a friend who has the same but an 2007 model with Automatic. That‘s a great puller horse. I wish you Allway‘s if needed best grip under your tires and hundrets of thousednds of miles with Fun👍

I have had several of these screw out tow valves that were stuck. I was able to screw them back in using a small pipe wrench.

I have dyslexia. I'm not going to tell you what I read when I first saw the title! Nice trailer!

Well done! I’ve handled a few tractor purchases that way with great success

Use a double acting cylinder. Then you have no oil volume to worry about, as the cylinder is always "full". If you run off the hydro, then beware that you might need a bigger cylinder, as you do not have much psi. Think @Skipper has a setup like that. I saw a hydraulic cart on one of his threads.

I used to do it with an old 10 horse.. you'll be just fine.

So update guys. This thing is starting to go back together the last couple days. Pistons are in along with the camshaft. Had to lightly sand down the ends of the camshaft with very fine grit emery cloth to get it to slide into the new bearings. So far this thing is super tight! Getting the valves in today and then start going over everything. Should be ready to fire in a couple of days time!

When is this crate shipping? If it didn't ship yet, I would like to put a gift inside. I can mail it down to pullstart to add inside.

HE'S WORKIN ON IT........HE HAS A SCOOP....NOW HES FINDING A GOOD SEAT...... OR,,,,,HE IS STILL TYPING A RESPONCE........

I put one hand under the fan shroud & other hand on the exhaust pipe to pull the engine with my Arm Strong hoist. Getting older though, might have to break down & get some thing hydraulic one of these days. The pull strength of a 3/8" bolt is around 500lbs, your engine will weight nothing close to that. Be not afraid to use the lift eye.

Those are replaceable yes but you might very well be able to bend it back with a large bar of some sort

Does the PO have any more $1500 tractors that he wants to sell for $375?

Getting ready to split the case just in case the shifter rail doesn't loosen up. Had to make a puller just to get the wheels off. Then drilled the tranny lugs to get PB Blaster into the hitch pin. Removed the hub set screws and filled all the holes with PB. Now we wait.

it is not shipped yet, the Crate is actual @pullstart stable. don‘t know if he nailed allready the cover completely. He give me a info if it’s nailed and i contact my logistic Buddy to pickup. i think one or 2 day more left is no big deal. i feel very honored, that you accept a crazy like me in the row.

Throw the deck in your wife's car and take it to a shop. They might even do it for free!

Your relay should look like this; Terminals 85 and 86 are the coil connections. One is 12v positive the other is ground. If say this is a starter relay when you turn the key to start, one of these two should get 12 volts. When the coil is energized it pulls the contact from 87a to 87 There should be 12 volts all the time with the key on on terminal 30. This supplies power to terminal 87 that has now switched from 87a. Terminal 87 would go to the starter solenoid.

If at first you dont succeed, have another look where you stripped the gas tank off the machine and you will find the original link wire. The lighter coloured one is the original. I made the new one by scaling from a photo I took before stripping the carb. Its a tad wrong. But I found the main problem was not enough tension on the main governor spring. I bent the metal governor bracket a little to give that extra pull and it runs like a dream, no smoke, no hunting. Many thanks guys, I can confidently refurbish it over winter now to get a cracking little mower for nothing. Mick

Digging for clams?

Maybe the C in J&C mandated a few gone so her horse has some more leg room in the stalls?

I have been noticing some smoke from Putt Putt while tilling. Before starting him up again, I should check the oil. Thanks for the reminder! On a side note, one of the go-karts smokes like crazy. I taught the girls how to fill the oil and check the gas. They are aware that it’ll be ok like this for a while longer, but if it stops smoking to SHUT IT OFF

Hey Chuck, you say the tow valve is tight. Does that mean you can open and close it, or is it stuck tight. Possibly in the open position. I would also check that the pump input shaft is actually turning when the pulley is turning.

Keep the oil changed and the fins clean and she will last a long time! Some but not all issues with the Onan are started some place by neglect. I had one with over 1500 hours and the guy I sold it to is still running it pushing 1700 hours.

The short answer is no.The Predator has ball bearings supporting the crank just like a Kohler.The Onans have bearings similar to an automotive engines.All the pto mounting bolts on the Pred are SAE and not metric.If you mount the spacers(1 1/4") under the Onan plate the PTO bow has to be lowered by removing the hairpin clip and letting the bow rest as pictured.Putting the spacers under the engine eliminates this issue but then you run into the heads from the engine bolts possibly hitting the frame. One other thing I know you asked about before is battery charging of the Pred.The one I use keeps up with the winch,no issues.

Next step here Bronc is to pull the motor apart and assess the damage. If you ventilated the block yer done...if she went the other way and just busted the cam we can rebuild her make her better... stronger...six million dollar commando... just kidding and trying to cheer you up!

Yeah take that pen and start coloring in all the green !!

Now that it quit monsooning here (12 inches of rain in 10 days) was able to put the 1277 to disc duty in the garden. Even dragged the little 8hp/4 speed out for wagon/mulch duty. That ones for sale.

Mowed the yard at my shop with the Deere, then decided to knock down the overgrown brush in the east pasture at the ranch with the M. I seriously doubt if any of these new tractors today will be earning their keep like this 72 years from now