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Try loading this on a ATV

So Bob Maynard @rmaynard and I are Facebook friends. We don’t interact much on FB and have never used FB messenger to communicate but today a Bob Maynard imposter tried to talk me up. Not sure where this scam was going to lead, most likely a clickable link that would be loaded with some sort of virus. Of course I knew right off it was a scam so I tried to have a little fun with it.

well well well,,,,,,,there is nothing worse than leaving people hanging off the edge of their seat,,,,,,holding their breath ,,and ,I have been off the Square for so long that I managed to forget my password and I let my self get locked out,,,, it took 3 members,,,,several nights guessing and tahdah,,,,,they unlocked the science and dark mysterys of my head,,,,,,well,,,not really dark,,,,but it was a cloudy day,,,,, so,,,,where have I been??? Diabetes !!!!!! ,,,,,,unchecked,,,un regulated,,,,,my eventual demyzz has been my own doing or undoing,,,,,,,6 stents,,,,yes 6,,,,,,dayum,,,out at work 7 weeks,,,,and yes,,,,,old,,,, Will I be at the show.???? you better believe it !!!!!! I do have about 4 dozen mails ,,,,I will open them all.....and respond,,,,,, I do want to thank Sparky,,,,Squonk,,,,and Road Apples for making this post possible.... and I cant think of a better group of people to miss than that crew that meets in Bieglersville 3rd weekend in june,,,,,,, <--------- MEANT TO BE A COMPLEMENT !!!! BE SAFE,,,B BACK AFTER SUPPER

Though many of you know how capable a Chevy Colorado ZR2 Duramax already is, I just figured I’d add to the fun with some more pictures. I picked up a load of wood up a pretty good hill today, almost made it to the top! There was a pretty cool squirrel feeder there too!

M-274 A4 Truck Platform Utility 1/2 ton aka Mechanical Mule. 4 wheel drive 4 wheel steering 3 speed transmission (syncro 2/3) also high low range 2 cylinder 42 cubic inch overhead valve air cooled Mil Standard AO-42 engine. rated at 14 hp. Weighs 970 lbs. empty Carries 1000lbs Deck is Magnesium alloy.. Produced 1957-1970 About 11,000 built 5,000 abandoned in Vietnam Used by Army and Marines. Carried cargo or mounted a 106mm Recoilless rifle. Loops on the hubs allowed you to sling load it (loaded ) under a Huey They had a recoil pull starter and could be a real b***h to start. i added the alternator and electric start.

Well today was interesting, I went to work at 7am and by noon my lunch came around and walked outside and there was a trailer with some tractors on it. I guess it doesnt get any easier then that.

I just picked this 520 HC up a few days ago. I did a little tinkering and now it runs and drives as it should. It came with a 60" deck a rottotiller and a dozed/ snow blade. I'm planning on hooking it up to a bottom plow in the near future.

There's a video on photobucket of a V-8 block I made with pistons and crankshaft which turns but they're holding it hostage and it was on my old phone. The cylinder bores are less than 1/4". Check and see if this link works for you. I can't watch it. EDIT, I got it so posted it below Got the engine mounted. Some of the small details for it will go on at the end. That's the kind of stuff which always gets broken. (think it's a shadow or something that makes the recoil look off center in the first pic)

Just got off the phone with HHHOOOWWWAAARRRDDD!!! Sounded great!!

Back by popular demand is our annual Buy/Trade/Sell thread for the 2019 Big Show. You can use this thread to post items you are looking to sell, buy or trade at the big show. Most members are willing to haul bigger items to the show if a deal is reached ahead of time. This is the first year that I am not looking to buy or sell anything .... did I just write that? Holy cow !! Post them up fellas!! Note- Please try and keep this thread on topic as it gets pretty long. I will take the liberty of keeping it on point and deleting posts that do not apply. I would also suggest that you edit your own original post with additional items and or updates like SOLD etc (See 3/22 update below) Thanks! 3/22 Update ... I would be interested in an hy it for a 754 but not looking for something that needs a complete rebuild. Up for sale is a drag link for a suburban. I have a few of these. Swapped out one on my son's hot rod today. The only modification you will need to do is cut the length of the thread that screws into the fan gear and paint it the color of your machine.These are IMO much stronger than the ball joint style. $35 each delivered to the show. Uodate 4/4- I am interested in a 520 60” deck. Condition does not matter much just need a “working” deck and mule drive

My impact was getting old and was never very good to begin with so I put my research cap on . I know , I know ... Harbor Freight stigma has me too , but after watching the YouTube comparo , I couldn't resist . I also needed a 32 mm impact socket so off to H/F I went . Socket was $ 4.99 with a lifetime warranty and picked up the gun too . Total price out the door was 151 beaver pelts . We'll see .....

THANK YOU!!!!! Yes, they're all boxed up and ready to ship along with every other part.

Shoot ‘em and their nuts, @The Tool Crib!

You can take a 12 volt test light (available at any parts store & cheap) Clip the aligator clip to battery ground. Touch the + terminal on the coil with the switch on to verify power is getting to the coil. Touch the probe to the - terminal of the coil. Crank the engine with the starter and the light should flash on and off with the points opening and closing. If the light doesn't flash you won't get any high voltage out of the coil to create the spark. Recheck the points.

New points usually have a coating on them so always clean the contacts even when they're new out of the package. Small file is best. As stated above, must have 12v at the + side of the coil. Condenser and points connection to - side of coil. It will spark without a condenser or a bad one but will not run properly. No need to have the engine running to see a spark at the points. With the key in "run" and the points completely closed, flip the points open with a screwdriver and you should see a spark. That is, if everything else is good like all the parts, 12v at the + side of the coil, the contacts are clean and making contact, ground connection is good. Was this rewired or anything like that? More history and information will help with any internet diagnosis.

Started to tear down my Commando tonight and already see it's gonna be fun to fix. This little tractor runs great no smoke and starts at the touch of the key. The hitch pin decided it liked being where it was and I had to convince it otherwise. The rear axle seals look to have been leaking for some time, so the hubs slid off...but the key's are needing some work. Looks like it will be a fun little job to bring her back. If this is the worst I get it should go pretty fast.

WHAT, I made one that went over 30 mph with a 8 speed trans. But yeah, it was kinda "hold my beer and watch this" but...still fun 20 mph is too fast to still use it for tractor duties in my opinion but it is possible Use this pulley calculator. Plus fill the trans with motor oil instead of gear oil. http://gadi.agric.za/software/renting/pulley_calc.php

Glad to have you back Howard so might as well pick up where we left off.

Got the engine block vid. Here's a fishing reel reelvideo.MP4

LMAO too. That @rmaynard's real a pain in the @$$ isn't he? Always try to waste their time as much as possible if you can. It just saves someone else the hassle as the scammer just ends up with that much less time to spend doing it to someone else who may fall for it.

Had a car for sale on Auto Trader and someone who obviously was attempting to scam me via a pretend Paypal account. I forwarded it to Paypal and they said the internet address was from Russia. I played with them for a few days and then they got a bad attitude and quit!

For some reason my phone won't do that.

I have an older Earthquake and I can't say any thing bad about it. It has more power than my previous impact, which was a Snap-On.and has held up well for the past 5yrs.

Nice trailer, bet you could get a dozen into it!

This link is for the #5085 4 speed uni-drive. You have the #5053 3 speed uni-drive. The only real difference between these 2 transmissions is the 5058 has the brake drum on the cluster gear shaft, the 5053 has the brake drum on the mushroom gear. Your #5053 and the #5025 are the same except for the 5053 has longer axles so you can use wider tires.

I had one of those BSA knives, bought it at an antique store for 15 bucks when I was 11 or 12. It was confiscated from me because it was a fixed blade, and we were only allowed to have Swiss army style pocket knives 🙄. The Scout Master took it and promised to give it back, I didn’t say anything to my parents because I thought I was in the wrong, and I eventually forgot about it. Still have my Totin Chip card in my wallet though. Sits right between my carry permit and my prisoner escort card 😂🤣

Going on the premises that you have an automotive style coil, check to see if you have power to the + side of the coil when the key switch is on. There should be no power at this terminal when the switch is off. If this checks out then your key switch should be good. Another check here would be to ensure that the wire coming from the switch is indeed on the + side of the coil & that the wire from the points is on the - side of the coil. You mentioned that you installed new points. Take a dollar bill or piece of paper & run it through the points while they are closed, do this several times to ensure that the points contacts are clean. Also make sure that your points are opening & closing as they should..

One of these polarized connectors would work. Install it so the hot wire from the switch is connected the the insulated female side. No chance of a short when disconnected. There are lighter ones but this one has 10ga wires. Garry

Just this time @19richie66 show anything older and you probably won’t even hear from me.

Yeah, we could fix that.. Ewan's RJ wheels were Swiss cheese before we started on them

I worked as a bean-counter for a local tool & die shop for 20+ years here in N/W PA and thought I was at least familiar with the cutting tools of the trade. Thanx for the education....we all get a some every day. So, I'll stick to the asset DDB depreciation recapture ....stayin' in my lane. lol

I ran across this place when I was visiting my son in NJ. I stopped in and talked to a really nice guy. They used to be a WH dealer. Still a toro dealer. Had a lot of GT,s of every color in the yard. PS don’t tell the other guys about this place. Since he might even have some no’s and used WH parts. It will be out Texas/NJ secret If your a little mechanically inclined you could also consider buying a remanufactured short block from Kustom remanufactures

I can send you one.

Bring it....10 hours of my 12 hour nights are spent doing government jobs anyway. Man that sounds bad when I type it out.

That key way looks pretty ruff. Not sure of your skills but here is what I would do with that. Fill the key way by welding it up, turn it down on a lathe to true it back up. Then cut a new full length key way on a mill. I assume that the key way in the hub is not in good shape either, this can be resolved by cutting a new key way 90degrees to the old one and drilling a new set screw hole over that key way. Pics to show the repairs that I did on my Raider 12.

If it wasn't for the fact that you are posting as you build it, showing all the steps and the process involved, it would be very hard to realize and/or appreciate all the work that goes into it. Unless one is extremely knowledgeable in doing the same thing, looking at the finished product one will not realize what went into it. This post should really be pinned somewhere. So many times I looked at someone's work specially carvings for hours just trying to get an idea as to the methods involved. This is extremely kind of you. I will probably try to collect all the photos chronologically so as to see the entire process from beginning to end. Awesome.

A few more notable pictures from the last year, for those of whom might not know history on “the guy with the little blue truck”

LMAO ...excellent Sparkeye...Title suggests you were ordering some brake bands, stud kits or a nine pin! Thanks for reminding me why I don't FB and should cancel my crap there....

A couple times I have started her in gear and run myself over.....Not lately...

Your English is fine. I would be very interested in seeing the brake system you have for the front axle. To make your go five times as fast as it was designed to go could be hazardous to say the least. You would probably need to go from the engine to a 5:1 gear box and then on to the drive pulley on the transmission. If you only put a smaller pulley on the transmission and a larger one on engine you probably wouldn't even double the speed.

Maximum Overdrive and the clown faced Detroit powered KW...

Thanks a million all of you guys. I really appreciate it. I’ll get back and let you know what I find out. Jerry

Thank you for the link, your video's have taken the fear out of tearing into the drive trains on these tractors. The last one that I did is going strong and I expect it to last long after I'm around to drive it. It give's me great satisfaction to bring these old tractors back. My love was brought on for these through my dad. He saved and pushed mowed a huge lawn until he could afford the Horse he wanted. I still have that C-160 auto, and it mows for me 45 years later. Again, thanks for all you do to help.

I wish I had a Magic Parts Shed....

With the help of many of you men here I rebuilt my 6 speed trans on the "1047". So I have an idea what is to come, and it would bug me to no end NOT splitting the trans now. Work smart not hard, do it right once and be done. Now to go find the vid's on my model trans...

if you need any more convincing, consider that if your seals are leaking the cause could very well be that the bearings are loosening up at the end of the shaft. probably would not be the worst idea in the world to put two new wheel bearings and two new wheel seals in there. You probably already know but you do need to split the trans to get the bearings out.

It's done with a broach and sleeve that fits the hub and press. The broach is pushed through and cuts the key way. https://www.amazon.com/Accusize-Keyway-Broach-Fitted-5100-0010/dp/B00HK0YG0S/ref=asc_df_B00HK0YG0S/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=312743986220&amp;hvpos=1o3&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=10978105667729803148&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9009898&amp;hvtargid=pla-493143206796&amp;psc=1

I was planning on cutting a new key way in the hub. I didn't want to split the trans if I could avoid it. Thinking about trying to make a brass key and welding around it and file/grind it back. If that doesn't turn out I would go your route for sure. I am a Tool Maker and have access to all the equipment that I would need. Will be adding another set screw to each hub also.

Finally got the Auto 18 home. Have to track down no charge issue but don't seem too complicated...yet. I got an oil filter adapter to install and probably hunt for a tin with a hole instead of cutting one. Is it possible to add an oil pressure gauge someplace? If so, electric or not? And, can steering brakes be added at some point? Might have to get a new transmission temp gauge since it goes to 250 when ignition is off but zeros out when on but never reads a temp after running. Came with 3 point, new rear end, extra rear and internals, 4 hydro pumps, front axle, rims, fenders, 2 gas tanks, hubs, blah blah blah. The 4 ft tiller is no joke. After carrying it twice, I need to get 3 point re-attached and be done. Any advice on this beast is welcome! I have been reading a lot thanks to the free files but, we all know reality and print are different ends of the same snake! Thank you so much Horse Fans!