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Finally got this tractor in my possession and home. Been trying for 4 years to buy this tractor. Fellow Junkie released it to me for reasonable price. This tractor needs a lot of TLC. Was running on starter fluid several weeks ago. Now it is snowing and everything is froze. Hopefully this weekend we will get back to the 50s and will thaw everything out. Pretty sure transmission is froze up. Really bad thing right now is it is sitting on my trailer and can't get it to move. But...it is at least at my house now and hopefully start getting it back to its glory. Last picture is of it just after being power washed at the local car wash.

I spent the weekend at my BILs new cabin. He built the cabin on top the mountain behind the farm.

From working in a factory to back yard builds, some of this hardware could be very useful. Which bolt would help you out the most???

Not big on blowing smoke but I thought it would be good to throw out some props to the WH guys I've come across in my short 5 years or so of getting into the Reds. Pretty amazing to me.....probably crossed paths with 20+ people that are passionate about owing and restoring. One guy was the next street over from me. To a man (not found a WH gal yet but I'm sure they are out there) they are the most honest and genuine people that I have ever come across. Totally normal guys that just love the WH brand. A joy to meet these people.......just sayin

Well going through Craigslist last night I came across a blade for $40!!!! So I went today and picked it up. Even came with the axle bracket. So I made a lift link and put it on the junkyard dog 702. Got to paint the link now but most of all i Can't wait to go play now.

Really liking the 753. It did a great job plowing snow, and with the added weight hardly spun a tire. 55 lb outside weights on the rear wheels and 255 lbs seat ballast. Might see about getting some chains, just in case. Sorry the picture is so dark..... but it was getting dark. Mrs. TIG turned the yard light on for me.

I bailed off into my leaves today. I used the blower for awhile but I kept itchin' to use my new tractor. Listen, this unit hadn't run in 2 years, I got it running last week and changed some fluids...about 2 hours work total. I just had to try it. I ran to my shop, screwed the air filter on, a little gas in the tank, set the seat on w/o fenders, jumped 'er off, adjusted carb some... started dozing. I am in awe of how well this 40 yo rig operates!

Jim, any motor oil being made today is a better quality lubricant than was being sold when my were built. Changing the oil on a regular basis is more important than the brand of oil. I have been using "Traveler Diesel Engine Oil 30" from Tractor supply for several years. Price is good and is good quality. Found this from AMSOIL; Diesel oil typically contains more robust detergency additives than gasoline oils It is safe to use a diesel oil in your gasoline engine, provided the diesel oil meets the appropriate specifications and viscosity requirements of your engine. For example, if your gas engine calls for a motor oil that meets the API SN specification, you can safely use a diesel oil of the correct viscosity that meets the API SN spec.

I'm all ready just bring it on here in North East Ohio. I have never used a blade but I'm ready to go. My plan is to first use the blade take it all to the side of the drive and then chuck it all in the yard with the blower

“Can’t wait to go play now.” You sound like me..... (mind if I insert a story?) Several years ago, I finally bought a front blade for my Craftsman GT 6000....... of course AFTER we had 2 feet of snow fall in the course of 6-8 hours or so. After that, every time mowing season would end, I would rearrange my 4 GTs in the shed so that the GT 6000 could sit right in front of the doors, blade on, chains on, ready for action. Went two years or so that we didn’t have much snow to speak of, so next Spring, off with the blade, and rearrange again to have the mowing GT nearest the doors. Then...... One winter, we got 10” or so of snow at one time. Man, was I ready to go push some snow!!! Went out, cleared our driveway and sidewalk, neighbor’s drives and sidewalks, and even went up and down our street to make it better to drive on ( and I was having a blast!!!) Wife said she looked out the front window from the comfort of her wood-fired heat, and kept looking until she saw me go zooming down the street in front of the house. She figured I had a smile on my face and would come in when either I got cold, or ran out of snow to move. And, she told me later..... all she could think of as she saw me go by the house was...., “There goes Forrest Gump!!”

Thing that riles me up is half the bolts in a box seem to have the head on the wrong end, I save them for the other side.

Couldn't agree more, the greatest part of this hobby is finding these tractors, bringing them back to there former glory , and running them. They don't all have to be show pieces, they weren't designed for that. They were meant to be workers. Designed for whatever they were called to do and do it well.

Recently I got pretty frustrated by the price of chute retainer clips. Realized my friend has a 3D printer and we got to work. I feel like the time I've spent trying to find obscure parts mixed with the fact that they are priced absurdly once found is just not acceptable. Here is our first finished piece with a few strength updates. Any ideas for parts or pieces are welcome. Think I just added a secondary hobby to my hobby.....

Moe1965 you'll do fine with the blade. I use mine for the driveway and back yard. Yes the backyard, my dog has short legs so I plow it for her.

I once heard a joke similar to that. Supervisor shows up one day and there's three or four experienced carpenters and one new guy. The new guy is sitting on a corner of the lot with a big pile of Nails in the middle and four smaller piles of nails around it. The supervisor asks the lead carpenter what the new dingbat is doing. He says, sorting the nails for which side of the house they are pointing at as they come out of the box, so as to know where on the building to use them.

Here's one of my Hot Rodded Trucks. 1949 kb1 International. There's a 302cid under the Hood. Oh. that murel behind the truck was at a service station for many years is now painted over, sad.

I think I've used all of them at one time or another.

Agree totally. They were all brand new and shiny at one time, but part of their legacy is the durability that they still have after the wear and tear and bumps and scratches. Besides, I always like to think in terms of "why have a toy if you can't play with it from time to time!"

Well said.

Mine too, was rough like that one.

That is the feeling we all share when we first climb on a Wheel Horse!

I was in Maine for an entire summer years back, as I recall it summer was on a Wednesday that year!

Can not explain it so I send two decals facing left as in the logo and one right facing for those want the horse facing forward on each side. I have had customers send me pictures of their original decals and some are both left and some are both sides facing forwards? Most of the 85 through 89 tractors have the horse facing forward. Good question and maybe some members with original decals on their tractors no matter what year can post images or confirm for us. Thanks for posting this question.

Well as some have previously seen, I recently acquired a 1056 with a 12 hp kohler. Well today I rewired the machine so it could run properly and also added a solenoid to it. I will clean up the wiring some more, after i tear it all down and reassemble. Surprisingly it fired right up. So I am at least gonna pull the head and check everything over. I also will have to replace atleast the oil pan gasket. It's has a homemade one on there that looks like its seen better days. And I test sanded part of the hood to see what the patina would generally clean up as. But there will be more to come as i go. The first 4 pics are of when I picked it up. The last pic is how the hood cleaned up on a quick cleaning.

I should get royalties from this picture. If I had known it was going to get around this much, I would have copyrighted it.

If you have a Tractor Supply, but it, put it in, change it every 25 to 30 hr, unless there are other problems,the engine will out last you .

Could do a video of watching paint dry???

Here’s something for you..... Several years ago when I bought my 1995 PowerStroke, of course I became interested in diesel engine oil. After checking out Rotella, Delo, and others (specs, not glossy ads), I took those specs and visited my one of my favorite places.... Tractor Supply Company. I compared their Traveller 15W-40 specs with the others.....waddayouknow..... same.... so I bought a 5-gallon pail of it, with the thought that NOBODY can afford to make a crummy oil, and I would follow up later with at least 2 oil samples and have Blackstone Labs analyze them and see what they come back with. Extremely good results! And I have had many repeat analyses since. So, I can vouch for THAT oil.

The older gentleman that really taught me a lot about installing windshields always said to install them like you are gonna be the next guy working on it. Always thought was some great advice for many things you do!! Randy

Thanks guys , just seemed strange that the Shell 30 wt that I had bought this summer disappeared from the shelf. I change oil in everything twice a year , cars are every 3000 miles except the El which is usually once a year at 1000 miles or less. ( this when it is state inspected ) .

Same joke, different type of fastener!

Diesel oil is actually better for your older engines. it has ZDDP (i think) and additive that prevents wear on your flat valve tappets. It was taken out of regular oil as it plugs catalytic converters and cars use bearings now for the valve train.

Implying that a Wheel Horse tractor is strong no matter the direction of drive?

Who says you can't get 10 lbs of potatoes in a 5 lb sack .

That how we are too. We've restored Trina's 657 and she uses it like it's meant to be. She isn't afraid to scratch it up a bit. We know how to fix what ails it later.

Short answer... Yes, it will! Longer answer... You may need to finagle something.

To each his/her own, but I agree 100% with that comment. For my own purposes, I like my GT's to look good, but they are all workers, not museum pieces.

Rough is good. you wont be afraid to scratch it up.

There definitely is a lot of work ahead. After I started digging in to it. I realized it's a bit rougher in some spots than originally thought. But that's alright it's home and I got all winter and that's part of the fun. The first time I drive it and get to work it, all will be worth it.

Here's a couple photos and a short video This one is a great shot to show the lights.

Thanks Richard, I think that helped. Came right out, in all fairness it's on a 1997 garage kept 416 with 230 hrs. Been soaking it with In- Force for a few days, put the punch on my hammer drill, hit it a few times it moved, a few more times and it came right out.

I finally got the axles back from the guy that turned and shortened them for me. The tranny's back together with new bearings and seals and I have modified the fender pan support and tool tray to fit the 8 speed and cut a slot in the tunnel cover for the hi/lo shift lever. Once I get done modifying the frame and tins I'll take it back apart to paint it. I considered powder coating this project but decided to stick with paint instead.

Now who would do a thing like that...

I dunno Dan ...I'm still kinda po'ed you had me dig that crank outta that EV Onan for your vertical after you nicked the crank trying to get a seal out only to fix what you did with JB weld! To answer your dilemma about the gal thing maybe you should start a dating site?!?!? What the heck they got a farmers only thing?

What a great score!!!!

Put that tractor to work leveling out a big dump truck load of dirt and It will really surprise you.

Great pictures and stories, guys! I forgot to include this one in my post the other day. My grandfather bought this new in 67 on my dad's first day of kindergarten. It has roughly 400k miles on its original (but re-rung a few times) /6 and 3 on the column. This was also the first vehicle I ever drove, and is probably why I don't like automatics. Every day it was in use was hard work. I cant find the pictures, but every weekend it would either haul a ton of feed, or with the side boards on, a bull from our place in Texas up to the ranch my grandparents had in Oklahoma. Now days, it gets used pretty lightly, either hauling some feed or brush. The first picture was probably mid-70s, with a cousin sitting on the Massey. The second was a few months ago.

As stated above, start small and go through all the fairly simple things. If you haven't had a need to do much maintenance other than oil changes since new in 89 (30 years), it might be a good time to do what I call a minor overhaul. I'm in the process of doing this on a new to me old C-81 tractor, which was a non runner. Pardon me for writing a long list, but I'm documenting this for myself, and for you and others since its fresh on my mind. 1. Install new spark plug, start tractor and check it it made a difference. 2. With tractor running spray carb cleaner around base of carb and top of carb throttle shaft to check for air leaks. (if engine speeds up there is an air leak which effects performance) 3. Check fuel pump output (with hose to carb removed , open hose should spurt gas noticeable with each pump) a weak pump can be a symptom of hard to start after sitting a while. 4, Clean fuel tank & check shutoff valve body and strainer isn't partially plugged (i have found the body of the strainer can get scaled up so I hand ream it with a drill bit, or just replace it) If you pulled gas tank to clean now is a good time to clean all around transmission and notice any leaks which might indicate a transmission seal needs replacing 5. While replacing hoses with both hoses off pump, now is a good time to spray carb cleaner into each side of pump, sort of to flush it out. (try to get ethanol resistance hose) 6. With carb still installed) Pull the bottom bowl, if its full of gunk move to pulling carb for a full disassembly cleaning, if bowl is clean or only has a slight amount of trash pull idle and main jet needle screws and spray carb cleaner through them. (As part of pulling jet screws, count the number of turns inward they will go until they stop so you can reinstall them in the same position) 7.Run tractor and see if fuel system work improved running 8. If not much improvement, pull the tractor hood, most of this work is on the front of the engine and this make sit so much easier. (Pull battery cable for safety) Pull the carb and since it is off do a full disassembly cleaning. if throttle shaft is worn (wobbles or found during air leak test, install a bushing in the recess at the top of the carb. Kohler makes a bushing for this but they are a little hard to find in stock. I stack 2 brass thrust washer I get from ACE Hardware in all those little drawers (Hillman part# 58087) Test the throttle shaft fit and if tight hand ream very slightly with a drill bit 9. With the carb off now is the time to get to do head and valve work. 10. Pull head and decarbon head and top of piston 11. Pull valve cover and internal baffel (note position of cover and baffle as they must be reinstalled in the same vertical position to vent properly) 12. Pull valves, and clean (I decarbon them using a wire wheel on a bench grinder) 13. check valve stem diameter for wear and install in valve guide and check for excessive ear (wiggle) 14. Lap valves and check, adjust valve clearance 15. Measure cylinder wear top, and bottom of stroke (and compare to Kohler spec sheet 16. Drain engine oil, fill with diesel or kerosene, crank engine over for a minute to wash everything inside, drain ((I jack tractor to tip it slightly to the side to make sure all the diesel is drained out), refill oil 17. Reinstall head, with new gasket torque per Kohler spec sheet now, and retorque hot, after running engine 15 or so minutes 18. With engine tins off, use an air blow jun and blow/clean behind flywheel and all cylinder cooling fins 19. Now is a good time to find the timing marks on the flywheel. I sand and paint the area white, then when dry use a paint pen to mark the Timing mark and TDC mark 20 Reinstall engine tins and battery cable. I also service the transmission as part of my minor overhaul With tractor operational Drain transmission (jack up front of tractor to make sure oil trapped in front of hump drains out (If oil showed indications of water or excessively dirty (milky, brown or white color, or clear water) Fill transmission with diesel or kerosene. Drive tractor around, or jack up and run through all the gears) Drains transmission again being sure to jack up to drain area trapped by hump Refill transmission with gear oil. Replace shifter boot if cracked/broken/missing Parts Possible Needed Spark Plug Air cleaner (if needed) Fuel hose and if needed new clamps (optional) tank shut off valve with filter screen and rubber tank bushing Carb cleaner spray can Carb base and air cleaner gasket carb overhaul kit If needed, fuel pump overhaul kit, or new mechanical or electric fuel pump If carb throttle shaft is worn 2 Hillman brass washers part# 58087 (or you may decide to buy a new aftermarket carb) Valve cover gasket, mesh filter, red rubber spacer, baffel gasket Head gasket Diesel or kerosene Engine oil Valve lapping compound and valve suction cup stick Transmission gear oil Shifter boot Anti-seize compound (I like to put this on head bolts and any bolts/nuts in hot area